Hi everyone, I hope you all had a great summer. The weather has turned wet once again out here in Western WA, and so I have started to disassemble my GL1500CT for it's restoration. I'm around the 50% mark so far and I'm making ready to remove the engine.
So far the removal of the air box has been the most challenging. Much like delivering a fat baby from a skinny mother on her first delivery. I'm a retired fire-paramedic (City of Tacoma, WA) and I had the pleasure of delivering several kids over my 36 years on the job but none were as difficult as this air box. I'm more worried about getting it back in, especially hooking up the 3 hoses on the bottom once it's in there. But like anything, we'll work through it I'm sure.
I was never able to connect, after several attempts, with the Shinny De-smog kit guy so unless there is another option, I'll be keeping the smog and the evap/purge stuff on reassembly unless anyone has a different idea. My Valkyrie is a California emissions bike. Just my luck.
Incidentally, my vintage 2001 Ford F-250 7.3 Diesel pickup I obtained in late 2012 and restored, (featured prominently on my YT channel ) is from there too. Again, just my luck.
I finished editing the disassembly video Part 1 yesterday and it is now in HD on my YouTube channel if you are interested the link is below. I'm really in a quandary on the actual moves I'll need to make to remove the engine from the frame. The book says after getting everything disconnected, to move the engine slightly forward and unhook the universal joint from the output shaft. It looks like the carbs are going to hit the frame to me but we'll see as I have a few more things to accomplish before I get to that point.
I think I have enough raw video "in the can" to make the Disassembly Part 2 video so I'll get to working on that as well.
There is a huge amount of thick oily grime along both lower sides of the engine from what was probably a persistent oil leak collecting dirt for a very long time. I seriously doubt the 16,500 miles on the Odometer. I'm thinking 116,000. It's like 1/4" thick of pure filth and I need to take some time and get that off of there before I pull it or it will make handling the engine very unpleasant as well as difficult. I know there is an oil leak emanating from the roughly 3/8" hole that traverses the bottom of the engine from one side to the other. I have that plugged off on both sides with paper towel and it doesn't drip now. I'm not sure why that passage is there, perhaps it is a relic of the casting or manufacturing process. You can see clear across the engine looking through it. Oil leaks inside there somewhere and slowly spills out on the lift. A few drips per week if I don't keep it plugged with paper towel. I'll feature this in possibly the next video.
Other than the leaking oil, the only other thing I found so far was a missing header copper crush gasket on cylinder #3 (center on the right) when I removed the stock exhaust system. Someone has been here before me. The other 5 gaskets were there. That could explain the extra popping I was having on that bank during deceleration.
If any of you have removed the engine before and have some words of advice or encouragement, I'd love to hear them. Otherwise I'll soldier on.
Here is the link to the video- Disassembly Part one.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gVWHvdc9JyEI hope all of you are well and in good order. The Thanksgiving Holiday will soon be upon us. Warmest Regards from out West, Craig