So many questions - New to me Valk

[Peteg]

So I’m installing self cancelling turn signals on my 1998 recently purchased Valkyrie.  The frame plate says it’s a GL1500C, although apparently someone installed Champion hard bags and a Honda trunk with passenger back and arm support. According to my Clymer manual the GL1500C would indicate a 49 state standard with an after - market tour setup, all seems pretty reasonable. When I pulled the fuel tank I disconnected the fuel line and vacuum tube from the fuel valve, but also had to remove what looks like the tank vent line at the center bottom of the tank. The Clymer manual indicates it’s a California, not a 49, if it has the tube at the bottom rear center of tank. I think I have a 49, and the Clymer manual is wrong?????
Additionally the bike came with Cobra 6 into 6 slash cuts, with baffles. They were too loud for me so did the following. Checked the plugs (Honda – recommended NGK DPR7EA-9), they were like new, ran the bike for 200 miles, checked mileage & plugs (mpg about 36, plugs like new).  Installed muffler packing around the baffles, which brought the noise into a more reasonable range for my wife and I. Drove the bike for 800 miles.  May have lost 50 rpms at idle, may have lost a couple of MPG. Spark plugs still great, as always running great. Just found an OEM air filter without prefilter that is dirty enough to replace for sure, especially since I’m base lining the bike. Also the bike has been desmogged, and I just tighten the carburetor clamps,  added seafoam to the gas tank, and have been running 40 psi rear and 38 psi front. I’m thinking maybe once I stop playing with the bike, low speed handling and grip twisting on the road I’ll settle in consistently over 35 mpg. My primary question is without tearing into the carburetors on a good running bike, would anyone venture to guess if the bike has been rejetted???? I’m thinking they did the pipes and the desmog and said they would live with the lost horse power as the bike ran well. Which is what I plan to stay with, although  I wouldn’t have  the pipes, were they not already done. Also for anyone who takes the time to read this, please comment if I seem to be missing something.

[98valk]

charcoal canister under swing arm is a calif bike.

cobra jet kit was only needle and slide spring replacement. leave pilot jet and mains as is.

oem air filter does not use a prefilter for USA bikes, and they last much much longer than 12k miles unless riding on dirt roads and construction sites all of the time.

much better to run TC-W3 in fuel than seafoam which is very old technology.
ratio to use is here
https://www.ls1.com/forums/f48/been-testing-oil-91206/

[The emperor has no clothes]

All bikes have fuel line, vacuum line, and vent line. (As long as it’s the OEM petcock) It could be rejetted. A lot of guys went to 38 pilot jets. It’s impossible to say, unless taken apart and looked at. From what you say, it doesn’t sound like it’s running too rich. I wouldn’t worry about it. Yours is a 49 state bike. The California models are listed as GL 1500 AC. The 49’rs are GL1500 C (or CD for 01-03) The air filter shouldn’t have a pre filter. Euro and (maybe Aussie ?) bikes came with them.


Have you pulled the rear wheel and replaced the 3 o-rings, and regreased ? Replaced gear oil in the pumpkin ?

[Peteg]

Thanks guys. Emperor, I did the rear end hypoid gear oil - looked great although it was probably an ounce low (I plan to watch, no visual leak indication). Everything I touch on the bike looks great, and it runs great. I was going to wait to pull the rear tire. It's 5 years old but looks and runs great. I think she was a well maintained garage princess, and I plan to keep her that way. So are you saying I should pull the rear wheel now and regrease the splines with moly grease? I only see one oring seal to replace per my Clymer manual when reinstalling the rear wheel? I think I'm missing something.

[The emperor has no clothes]

Thanks guys. Emperor, I did the rear end hypoid gear oil - looked great although it was probably an ounce low (I plan to watch, no visual leak indication). Everything I touch on the bike looks great, and it runs great. I was going to wait to pull the rear tire. It's 5 years old but looks and runs great. I think she was a well maintained garage princess, and I plan to keep her that way. So are you saying I should pull the rear wheel now and regrease the splines with moly grease? I only see one oring seal to replace per my Clymer manual when reinstalling the rear wheel? I think I'm missing something.

Check these out ;

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/Elusive%203rd%20O-Ring.htm

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/rear_end_service.pptx

[Peteg]

Thanks, I saved the Power Point with my documentation. I probably need to do the same next time I do the rear tire on my VTX. I did the rear tire at 10,000 miles ago, the spine looked good, but I just greased it with moly and threw it back together.

[98valk]

see my last post about importance of lubricating the U-joint
https://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,116696.40.html

how to choose the correct final drive gear oil
https://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,110541.0.html

[Peteg]

I saw on one of the links that this could be a tire profile issue. I think it surfaces as a bearing wear issue. Premature excessive free play due to worn races. I think the seals and splines are victims. As the worn races allow excessive run out misalignment, the seals get worn & hot, and the spline frets due to misalignment beyond design limit. The question is why did the Honda designer blow it badly in the rear, but not in the front. The answer for me is he did not consider the farther off center contact point of a car tire. My thinking would be add the 4th bearing is good. If needed change bearings when changing rear car tire, but if the additional bearing works you should be good to go. The same thing could happen due to brittle seals, but I would expect you would also see the issue up front  (Honda likely had the same engineer design front and back). I would not expect to greatly increase bearing life by changing a good seal for a new seal.  A new seal will be toast in no time if the bearings are at end of life.

[da prez]

  Do not expect to get proper service done at a dealer. I would say most M/C mechanics do not want to or know how to work on the Valks. A little mechanical experience and your location will bring you some experienced help. There is more knowledge on this board than you will ever realize.

                         J U S T  A S K

                                                     da prez

[Grey wolf oz]

  Do not expect to get proper service done at a dealer. I would say most M/C mechanics do not want to or know how to work on the Valks. A little mechanical experience and your location will bring you some experienced help. There is more knowledge on this board than you will ever realize.

                         J U S T  A S K

                                                     da prez

So true,

My local mechanic could not find his ass even if he had gastro

Delivered the bike for front wheel and breaks

When i picked it up oh the breaks are fine, 

Two weeks later
Hmm what’s that noise ,.,.,..,?

Breaks,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

The bike is worth getting to know and work on

You will always be more invested in its wellbeing than they will ever be