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Author Topic: Fork springs  (Read 1412 times)
6Banger
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Posts: 45


« on: April 13, 2023, 07:23:24 AM »

After much hassle...finally got Progressive springs installed.  Noticeably better. First,I  was sent the wrong springs, after I finally got correct ones, my lift blew a seal and lost oil, so I couldn't raise bike! Finally got her reassembled and back on the ground.  Now waiting on rear shocks and passenger floor boards. Always something!
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Swinborg
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Posts: 59


« Reply #1 on: April 13, 2023, 01:30:59 PM »

This is perfect timing,

I am waiting on my new flashy rear shocks and as soon as they land, I am going to rebuild the front of the bike!

Can you show me what you have done, what’s parts you have used?

You may of seen this is my first bike rebuild, so any experience is super appreciated!!

Max
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6Banger
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Posts: 45


« Reply #2 on: April 14, 2023, 02:58:25 AM »

Progressive springs, Lucas 10 weight fork oil. Made a wrench for the castle nut,I can't figure out how to post pictures! Got my new 412s on last night, mounting Cobra passenger floorboards today. Forks really aren't too difficult...providing they send the correct springs!
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..
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Posts: 27796


Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #3 on: April 14, 2023, 07:51:27 AM »

This is perfect timing,

I am waiting on my new flashy rear shocks and as soon as they land, I am going to rebuild the front of the bike!

Can you show me what you have done, what’s parts you have used?

You may of seen this is my first bike rebuild, so any experience is super appreciated!!

Max

Photos here :-   https://postimg.cc/gallery/7ZQt2pj

The following is from my memory - not always 100%

Something I wrote up a long time ago.

Cover tank etc with towels/rags

Bike on lift front wheel high enough to get a small jack under
Undo pinch bolts at fork caps
Loosen fork caps until completely unthreaded
Raise front wheel so forks compress completely

Remove right front fork cap. Have to try and grip the flat sided-round sided nut under the right fork cap.  
Can't use a wrench cause there are a couple of small flange parts sticking out. Hold this in place and undo fork cap.
Count threads exposed
Undo flat sided-round sided nut about half way up the threaded portion
Thread bolt you have found in your workshop into hole
Make sure it's a good fit
Remove and wrap a coat hanger around it
Screw back in
Using a flat bladed screwdriver prise the flat sided-round sided nut away from the tube below to remove collar
Remove collar that has a slot
Slide the shiny bit up over your bolt and coat hanger

Let front wheel jack down

Now use another coat hanger with a slight hook on the end and fish down in the fork tube and remove the spring. SLOWLY to let the oil drain off. This is why you covered up in the beginning with towels/rags
Slide new spring back over

Raise front wheel back up

Slide shiny bit back over wire and bolt
Replace collar
Remove bolt you have found in your workshop and turn flat sided-round sided nut down until you get to the amount of threads you counted earlier

Left fork

Insert special tool and undo completely remove
Hook out fork spring SLOWLY to let oil drain off. Washer comes with it.
Insert new spring AND then washer
Now using special tool screw part back on.
Needs 2 people cause you are pushing against the spring

Lower front wheel

Wait a couple of minutes for oil to drain down inside tube and then measure from top of fork tube. I did it with a bit of wood dowel as a dipstick. Adjust oil level as needed

Screw on fork caps. Tighten pinch bolts. Bounce forks a couple of times

Go for a short SLOW ride and test forks.

If OK drink beer.

If not OK I can't be held responsible

Not my video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vcur--zo-XY
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6Banger
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Posts: 45


« Reply #4 on: April 15, 2023, 05:09:14 AM »

Pretty impressive not removing the forks! I did seals too..so that probably wouldn't work. Nice write up.
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6Banger
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« Reply #5 on: April 15, 2023, 05:22:51 AM »

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JQoswhudKCKdvjG48
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