missing electrons

[Mopaw]

I rebuilt the starter switch on my 98 Tourer, tested it before mounting the switch back in the clamshell- it worked fine. closed up the clamshell and tried it- one click an nothing! dismounted the clamshell, checked the main fuse block, the fuse on the starter relay, and the fusable link. everything looked OK, but no headlight, no sign of electricity at all. multimeter says battery is charged. what am I missing? thanks for your input.

[Mooskee]

Possible bad connection of the 9 pin black Molex in the headlight shell. I f not check the 10 A Headlight Fuse in the right side cover.

For a nice schematic go to www.valkyriecarbsandcustom.com and scroll down to "Downloads". There are downloadable schematics. The GL1500-CT Rattlebar-Schematic-Colorized by Steve Glowacki is the easiest to read for your Tourer. The download is free. The drawings are public domain.

The drawing you need is sheet 3.

Dave

[RonW]

"..... everything looked OK, but no headlight, no sign of electricity at all."


When you state "no electricity at all," do you mean for the entire bike or just the headlights?

If it's just the headlights, the starter relay and headlights share the same movable contact (copper bridge, below). A defective copper bridge would disable both circuits.

[Jims99]

I’m having a similar problem, no headlight or tach. But mine will start and run fine. My issue is in the key switch. Maybe check that and make sure those contacts are good.

[Chrisj CMA]

I rebuilt the starter switch on my 98 Tourer, tested it before mounting the switch back in the clamshell- it worked fine. closed up the clamshell and tried it- one click an nothing! dismounted the clamshell, checked the main fuse block, the fuse on the starter relay, and the fusable link. everything looked OK, but no headlight, no sign of electricity at all. multimeter says battery is charged. what am I missing? thanks for your input.

One thing to note. Heat in the contacts can cause the little white slide in the switch to swell up so the contact doesn’t bounce up and down on its spring. You may need to clean that groove with a small razor knife so the contact can move again. If it’s too tight the contact can get pushed down and stay so now no contact.

[rug_burn]

    I'll second that about the plastic on the switch jamming the light copper jumper bar just enough to keep it from working right.
  I've had to fix that problem twice, and last time I noticed the black plastic body holding the copper contacts was swelled up a little;  it was above the plane of the contact bars and seemed like it could be a problem.   I filed it flat with the contacts.  Been fine ever since.
     This might have been from me shooting lubricant into the switch hoping the easy quick fix would be enough (it usually isn't).   Swelling up like that is common when using incompatible chemicals, lubes and fluids with plastics and rubbers (yeah, okay)