New guy here, picking up my grandfather's Valkyrie.

[ryno9100]

Hey guys!
   Weekend after next, I'm meeting up with my grandfather to buy his 1998 Valkyrie! I've been riding a bit over a year now, and am currently on a 2015 Kawasaki Versys 650, so it'll be a big change to ride a 1500cc power cruiser.

   This bike has sat for at least 5 years, maybe more. I found D-Rays YouTube videos and have a feeling they'll be a life saver for me. I know I'll need to clean and sync the carbs, replace the tires and clean and reseal the gas tank. Any ideas what else I should be looking for?

[Chrisj CMA]

Make sure whoever does the R/R of the rear wheel knows what he is doing. You need to get an idea of how healthy the drive splines are.

[The emperor has no clothes]

Is the tank rusty inside ? I would steer clear of the tank sealer, if you can. If it has the OEM style tire valves, I’d switch to the solid chrome ones. I think patch boys is where I got mine. New tires, fluids (including brake & clutch), regreasing the rear end will go a longs ways to a happy bike.

[luftkoph]

Don’t follow D-rays video if I remember he didn’t fully disassemble the carburetors and squirted carb cleaner all up in them where sensitive little rubber parts are.

If the tank is rusty look at electrolysis or evaporust

[f-Stop]

Howdy ryno9100!

Congrats on your soon to be new ride!  Your granddad has got a great looking Valk.  Those custom seats are awesome.  She needs some TLC for sure, but she'll be a great ride for a long, long time.

I would recommend getting a Honda Shop Manual.  It's worth its weight in gold.

 

[RonW]

Your bike, but before hitting the start button, I would spray engine fogging oil into the cylinders. Then remove the crankcase cover and manually rotate the engine many revolutions (counter-clockwise, I believe).

[RonW]

"I've been riding a bit over a year now,"

If you don't mind me asking, how much experience do you have working on motorbikes? Whatever the case, whatever part you work on, start a separate thread on how to do that particular part. It might save you hours. There are snags specific to a Valkyrie. Or you could do it wrongly and then post about it, whatever.


Tom Asay has Valkyrie repair videos on youtube.

[Hook#3287]

She's got some decent looking accessories  

Nice looking custom color matching Corbin(?) seat.

I'd get rid of the hand grip tassel things.

Imho, not a good combo with the air wings. Not really sure of what they do.

Come back and ask questions, you'll get a lot of advice from people that have "been there, done that"

[ryno9100]

Make sure whoever does the R/R of the rear wheel knows what he is doing. You need to get an idea of how healthy the drive splines are.

Will do. I planned to remove the rear wheel myself and have Cycle Gear put the new one on.

Don’t follow D-rays video if I remember he didn’t fully disassemble the carburetors and squirted carb cleaner all up in them where sensitive little rubber parts are.

If the tank is rusty look at electrolysis or evaporust

He disassembled most of it, took the jets out, removed the gaskets. The only thing he did that I was questionable on was spraying carb cleaner through the high speed and low speed jet areas. I'm not overly familiar with this bike specifically, but there's usually sensitive bits in there. Either way, the video makes for fantastic reference material for disassembly and reassembly, if not perfect for the actual fix. I've turned my own wrenches on cars long enough to understand that concept.

Howdy ryno9100!

Congrats on your soon to be new ride!  Your granddad has got a great looking Valk.  Those custom seats are awesome.  She needs some TLC for sure, but she'll be a great ride for a long, long time.

I would recommend getting a Honda Shop Manual.  It's worth its weight in gold.

 

Thanks! I planned to pick one up, for sure. It's been an absolute lifesaver on my Versys.

Your bike, but before hitting the start button, I would spray engine fogging oil into the cylinders. Then remove the crankcase cover and manually rotate the engine many revolutions (counter-clockwise, I believe).

This is great info! Thank you. I hadn't thought about this, but it makes perfect sense.

"I've been riding a bit over a year now,"

If you don't mind me asking, how much experience do you have working on motorbikes? Whatever the case, whatever part you work on, start a separate thread on how to do that particular part. It might save you hours. There are snags specific to a Valkyrie. Or you could do it wrongly and then post about it, whatever.


Tom Asay has Valkyrie repair videos on youtube.

I've been turning wrenches on cars for a little over 10 years, primarily as a hobby, but I've helped friends with odd jobs here and there. My father has been a mechanic by trade his entire life, so I've picked up a thing or two turning wrenches. I've also got some friends with much more motorbike specific experience than I that I lean on for advice. Plus, I'm here and intend to do way more research than is probably needed to ensure things are done right.

She's got some decent looking accessories  

Nice looking custom color matching Corbin(?) seat.

I'd get rid of the hand grip tassel things.

Imho, not a good combo with the air wings. Not really sure of what they do.

Come back and ask questions, you'll get a lot of advice from people that have "been there, done that"

I intend to remove the tassles for sure. I'll see if the lights on the windscreen still work, but if they don't, I'll likely remove them too. Grandpa told me the seat brand, but I don't remember exactly. It's comfy and it looks great.

Oh, I intend to spend plenty of time looking around these forums. I'm a part of the Versys forums, and the forums for my cars and there is more knowledge on those sites than most other places combined. I might be a younger guy, but I know the value of forums full of passionate owners.

[ryno9100]

Make sure whoever does the R/R of the rear wheel knows what he is doing. You need to get an idea of how healthy the drive splines are.

Will do. I planned to remove the rear wheel myself and have Cycle Gear put the new one on.

Don’t follow D-rays video if I remember he didn’t fully disassemble the carburetors and squirted carb cleaner all up in them where sensitive little rubber parts are.

If the tank is rusty look at electrolysis or evaporust

He disassembled most of it, took the jets out, removed the gaskets. The only thing he did that I was questionable on was spraying carb cleaner through the high speed and low speed jet areas. I'm not overly familiar with this bike specifically, but there's usually sensitive bits in there. Either way, the video makes for fantastic reference material for disassembly and reassembly, if not perfect for the actual fix. I've turned my own wrenches on cars long enough to understand that concept.

Howdy ryno9100!

Congrats on your soon to be new ride!  Your granddad has got a great looking Valk.  Those custom seats are awesome.  She needs some TLC for sure, but she'll be a great ride for a long, long time.

I would recommend getting a Honda Shop Manual.  It's worth its weight in gold.

 

Thanks! I planned to pick one up, for sure. It's been an absolute lifesaver on my Versys.

Your bike, but before hitting the start button, I would spray engine fogging oil into the cylinders. Then remove the crankcase cover and manually rotate the engine many revolutions (counter-clockwise, I believe).

This is great info! Thank you. I hadn't thought about this, but it makes perfect sense.

"I've been riding a bit over a year now,"

If you don't mind me asking, how much experience do you have working on motorbikes? Whatever the case, whatever part you work on, start a separate thread on how to do that particular part. It might save you hours. There are snags specific to a Valkyrie. Or you could do it wrongly and then post about it, whatever.

Also, to be fair to myself, that one year of riding has included nearly 10,000 miles of riding. If it's above 40 degrees and not raining, I'm likely on the bike. My car might have seen 1,000 miles in that time.


Tom Asay has Valkyrie repair videos on youtube.

I've been turning wrenches on cars for a little over 10 years, primarily as a hobby, but I've helped friends with odd jobs here and there. My father has been a mechanic by trade his entire life, so I've picked up a thing or two turning wrenches. I've also got some friends with much more motorbike specific experience than I that I lean on for advice. Plus, I'm here and intend to do way more research than is probably needed to ensure things are done right.

She's got some decent looking accessories  

Nice looking custom color matching Corbin(?) seat.

I'd get rid of the hand grip tassel things.

Imho, not a good combo with the air wings. Not really sure of what they do.

Come back and ask questions, you'll get a lot of advice from people that have "been there, done that"

I intend to remove the tassles for sure. I'll see if the lights on the windscreen still work, but if they don't, I'll likely remove them too. Grandpa told me the seat brand, but I don't remember exactly. It's comfy and it looks great.

Oh, I intend to spend plenty of time looking around these forums. I'm a part of the Versys forums, and the forums for my cars and there is more knowledge on those sites than most other places combined. I might be a younger guy, but I know the value of forums full of passionate owners.

[WintrSol]

When you sync the carbs, you will likely need to lube and sync the 'choke' system. Mine was off some, and didn't get equal enrichment, needed on cooler days.

Also, give us a general location; someone here may be a neighbor.

Also, see if this link to a manual works for you: https://www.dropbox.com/s/xb9whv511o8hre8/Valkyrie%20GL1500%20.pdf?dl=0

[Willow]

...
Also, give us a general location; someone here may be a neighbor.
...

Huntsville, Alabama?

[Ramie]

I rescued a standard that had sat for 3 years.  The tank was good all I had to do was flush it out.  The slow jets in every carb were plug and had to use an oriface tool to clear them out when I redid the carbs.  Also had to replace some fuel lines.

[darryb63]

Maybe also consider a good Valk mechanic. Last year I refreshed  a 2000 model with the same problems. Total bill was $2500. A fair amount of money but totally worth it. It's very relaxing to let the mechanic sourcing the parts, etc. When you factor in the cost of your time, $2500 is very reasonable.

[WintrSol]

...
Also, give us a general location; someone here may be a neighbor.
...

Huntsville, Alabama?

Where do you see that? Not in profile or sig.

[ryno9100]

...
Also, give us a general location; someone here may be a neighbor.
...

Huntsville, Alabama?

Where do you see that? Not in profile or sig.

I have no idea how Willow nailed it, but he nailed it. Lol. Maybe one of my other forums? I've mentioned I'm on the Versys forums and don't really hide the fact that I'm from this area.

[Willow]

...
Also, give us a general location; someone here may be a neighbor.
...

Huntsville, Alabama?

Where do you see that? Not in profile or sig.

I have no idea how Willow nailed it, but he nailed it. Lol. Maybe one of my other forums? I've mentioned I'm on the Versys forums and don't really hide the fact that I'm from this area.

I'm an admin.  I see what other members don't.  Normally I don't spread location info but I hoped in this case it would be helpful.

[WintrSol]

So, anyone near Huntsville that can mentor this newby?

[ryno9100]

...
Also, give us a general location; someone here may be a neighbor.
...

Huntsville, Alabama?

Where do you see that? Not in profile or sig.

I have no idea how Willow nailed it, but he nailed it. Lol. Maybe one of my other forums? I've mentioned I'm on the Versys forums and don't really hide the fact that I'm from this area.

I'm an admin.  I see what other members don't.  Normally I don't spread location info but I hoped in this case it would be helpful.

Right. I'm an admin over on another car forum and totally forgot about seeing IP locations. Lol. Not at all a problem in this case. Fingers crossed, someone on here lives near me.

[CamTom12]

I used to but moved to VA a few years back. Might be back in Huntsville after a few more years.

My tank got rusty after a long bout of unplanned sitting. It was stored outside for about 2 years and in an unconditioned garage for 2 years before that.

If your grandfather’s garage is conditioned or if he drained or filled the tank before it was stored it’s probably fine.

To get the rust out of mine I tossed in a section of chain as an agitator and soaked/flushed the tank with white vinegar for about 6 weeks. On Saturday I’d drain some, then vigorously shake and drain the remaining vinegar before filling it up to the brim with fresh vinegar to sit for another week. Worked pretty good except for the time it took. I was traveling a lot with work at the time so I didn’t mind the week-long soakings. Might be able to soak for less time.

Good looking bike!

[ryno9100]

I used to but moved to VA a few years back. Might be back in Huntsville after a few more years.

My tank got rusty after a long bout of unplanned sitting. It was stored outside for about 2 years and in an unconditioned garage for 2 years before that.

If your grandfather’s garage is conditioned or if he drained or filled the tank before it was stored it’s probably fine.

To get the rust out of mine I tossed in a section of chain as an agitator and soaked/flushed the tank with white vinegar for about 6 weeks. On Saturday I’d drain some, then vigorously shake and drain the remaining vinegar before filling it up to the brim with fresh vinegar to sit for another week. Worked pretty good except for the time it took. I was traveling a lot with work at the time so I didn’t mind the week-long soakings. Might be able to soak for less time.

Good looking bike!

Ouch. I'm young and impatient and don't want to wait 6 weeks. Lol.

Unfortunately, grandpa didn't prepare for the bike to sit for several years. I don't think he intended to stop riding it, it just kind of happened. He's already confirmed to me that the tank is rusty. On the bright side, the fuel line busted a while ago and spilled what remained of the fuel out, so it's not getting any worse.

The plan as it sits was to grab Kreem's tank cleaner and sealant kit. Something like the link below:
https://www.cyclegear.com/gear/kreem-fuel-tank-liner-combo-pack?sku_id=167025
From what I've read, this stuff can get a tank in good condition in a few days. I'll start with dish detergent and hot water to rinse off any oil and residue, then use the kit to deep clean and seal. Then it'll sit off to the side and wait to be reassembled while I fight with the carburators... At least I'll be able to give it a good clean while it's off.

[baldo]

There's a service manual posted for sale in the Classifieds.

[CamTom12]

The plan as it sits was to grab Kreem's tank cleaner and sealant kit. Something like the link below:
https://www.cyclegear.com/gear/kreem-fuel-tank-liner-combo-pack?sku_id=167025
From what I've read, this stuff can get a tank in good condition in a few days. I'll start with dish detergent and hot water to rinse off any oil and residue, then use the kit to deep clean and seal. Then it'll sit off to the side and wait to be reassembled while I fight with the carburators... At least I'll be able to give it a good clean while it's off.

Do what you’re most comfortable with, but an old guy at my work restores old bikes for fun and recommended against any sealer. He said if there’s any issues with adhesion you’ll get chunks trying to work their way through the petcock and clogging the filter there.

Bare steel is the best approach according to him. That’s how I kept mine based on that conversation.

The inside of mine doesn’t look as nice as it did from the factory, but the rust is gone and I get clean fuel through the lines.

[ryno9100]

The plan as it sits was to grab Kreem's tank cleaner and sealant kit. Something like the link below:
https://www.cyclegear.com/gear/kreem-fuel-tank-liner-combo-pack?sku_id=167025
From what I've read, this stuff can get a tank in good condition in a few days. I'll start with dish detergent and hot water to rinse off any oil and residue, then use the kit to deep clean and seal. Then it'll sit off to the side and wait to be reassembled while I fight with the carburators... At least I'll be able to give it a good clean while it's off.

Do what you’re most comfortable with, but an old guy at my work restores old bikes for fun and recommended against any sealer. He said if there’s any issues with adhesion you’ll get chunks trying to work their way through the petcock and clogging the filter there.

Bare steel is the best approach according to him. That’s how I kept mine based on that conversation.

The inside of mine doesn’t look as nice as it did from the factory, but the rust is gone and I get clean fuel through the lines.

I'll keep that in mind and discuss with my dad. I mentioned earlier he's been an auto mechanic for a long time, and has done plenty of work on old bikes too, so I trust his opinion.

There's a service manual posted for sale in the Classifieds.

Thanks for the heads up! I'm hoping to find a digital copy somewhere. I haven't invested any cash in it yet because I don't have the bike in my garage yet. I prefer to have a copy I can pull up on my laptop and use that in my garage.

[Skinhead]

Get some oxalic acid from Amazon.  Mix a cup with enough water to fill the tank and let it sit for 2 days.  Dreariness and flush with water & baking soda.  Oxalic acid won't harm paint and will remove Rust.

[RonW]

Whatever you do take a lot of photos so you know how to reassemble things back together instead of relying on memory alone. Another benefit of photos is if you hit a snag, you then can post the pics when asking the forum about the snag instead of describing it with a dozen paragraphs (like what is this guy possibly talking about?). Videos are good but are more for your own reference. The problem with videos is screenshots are usually blurry.

[ryno9100]

Get some oxalic acid from Amazon.  Mix a cup with enough water to fill the tank and let it sit for 2 days.  Dreariness and flush with water & baking soda.  Oxalic acid won't harm paint and will remove Rust.

This is pretty much my primary plan. I don't have the tools to make electrolysis work, unfortunately. It seems the best method, but it's a hell of a lot cheaper to get the acid than to get all the things I'd need to electrolysis. The acid method seems to work just as well, albeit with a bit more effort and time.

Whatever you do take a lot of photos so you know how to reassemble things back together instead of relying on memory alone. Another benefit of photos is if you hit a snag, you then can post the pics when asking the forum about the snag instead of describing it with a dozen paragraphs (like what is this guy possibly talking about?). Videos are good but are more for your own reference. The problem with videos is screenshots are usually blurry.

Always. I always take pictures because my medium-long term memory is hot garbage. Lol.

On some other notes:
The bike will absolutely need new shoes front and back. I've been eyeballing the Shinko 777 or 999s based on Fortnine's most recent video on YouTube and some user reviews I've read. I'm open to suggestions, but I'm hoping to keep it under $150/wheel.

I'll probably need a new battery. Given Alabama's climate, I see no reason not to go with a LI-Ion battery. Lighter, better charging and energy density and I don't need to worry about operating temps in a climate that rarely if ever sees temps below 30F. I am a year-round rider, though. My Versys will likely stay my cold weather rider.

Hopefully I'll have the bike in my own garage this weekend. Unfortunately, my search for a digital manual is coming up short. There's one guy on eBay selling them, who is my backup option only because he has good reviews. There was a guy on here who ran a website called valkyrienorway.com, but it seems that site is no longer active. If anyone is willing to email me a copy, I'd be extremely appreciative.

The part I'm looking forward to the least is the carbs. I've only worked on old thumpers with carbs, never something with more than 2 carbs, so 6 is a jump and I've read that the Valk has a particularly touchy setup. I also really don't want to manually sync them, but I don't have a choice.

[RonW]

Have you tried emailing Dag (Norway) re: digital manual. He was here April 27, 2023, 01:18:45 AM, so he's still kicking.
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php?action=profile;u=47

I doubt the carbs will need syncing. But BonS has a digital manometer that can be used on other bikes and cars as well.
I haven't seen a bad youtube review.

Works like this ..... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vetEfz7sOeQ&t=285s

However, most people use nickel and call it good.

[ryno9100]

Have you tried emailing Dag (Norway) re: digital manual. He was here April 27, 2023, 01:18:45 AM, so he's still kicking.
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php?action=profile;u=47

I doubt the carbs will need syncing. But BonS has a digital manometer that can be used on other bikes and cars as well.
I haven't seen a bad youtube review.

Works like this ..... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vetEfz7sOeQ&t=285s

However, most people use nickel and call it good.

I just shot an email his way. I didn't realize these forums gave direct access to email.

I'll take a look at both of the videos you mentioned and the manometer!

I know the screws to control airflow are blocked on the carbs. Does that generally eliminate the need to sync them? I was under the impression that a sync was 100% going to be needed. If it's just a thorough clean, I think my life just got a good bit easier.

[RonW]

I know the screws to control airflow are blocked on the carbs. Does that generally eliminate the need to sync them?

I don't quite remember if the pilot screws are plugged but they're D-shaped to prevent owners from tampering with the factory's epa compliance. They're not set at 100% peak performance but not worth all that back and forth just to gain a miniscule improvement unless you're drag strip racing. If a given carb gets way out of sync from the others, something else is probably the culprit. Anyways, I never heard of needing to periodically sync the carbs like valve adjustments. Never adjusted the Valk's valves either though.

[High Desert]

Perhaps you should look at the age of the tires.  Even if they have good tread, after about six years they can harden and this can SIGNIFICANTLY reduce traction.  This was my experience with a kit car I was updating once but I would imagine it's the same kind of material.  I know you can identify the age of the tire on car tires if you know where to look for what.  It is online.  Good luck in Huntsville!

[-mike-]

Shop manual needed?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dUc0HNGdqAg-J96vA8GFIF603R7wmK4F/view?usp=drive_link

Go and grab it.

-mike-

[ryno9100]

Perhaps you should look at the age of the tires.  Even if they have good tread, after about six years they can harden and this can SIGNIFICANTLY reduce traction.  This was my experience with a kit car I was updating once but I would imagine it's the same kind of material.  I know you can identify the age of the tire on car tires if you know where to look for what.  It is online.  Good luck in Huntsville!

Yeah. I've mentioned that I'm planning to put new shoes on it before I ride it. Absolute worst case, I've got a backroad I can go 30mph down to the shop I typically use for that, but I'm planning to just have a friend of mine with a truck and trailer help me get it towed. I'll get those installed when the gas tank is finished and the carbs are close to done. If you have recommendations on wheels, I'm open to them. Right now, I'm looking at Shinko's 777s or 999s.

Shop manual needed?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dUc0HNGdqAg-J96vA8GFIF603R7wmK4F/view?usp=drive_link

Go and grab it.

-mike-

Got it! I also got your email. Thanks a ton for the link!

[Savago]

After you sort out the fueling issues (carbs + gas tank), you should spend quality time to inspect the final drive.

Most shops (including Honda shops) don't do the proper maintenance while changing tires (i.e. new o-rings, moly grease, proper alignment of the pumpkin, etc) and that combined with the massive torque generated by the flat six engine will destroy the splines.

Look what happened to my I/S in 2016:

[CamTom12]

After you sort out the fueling issues (carbs + gas tank), you should spend quality time to inspect the final drive.

Most shops (including Honda shops) don't do the proper maintenance while changing tires (i.e. new o-rings, moly grease, proper alignment of the pumpkin, etc) and that combined with the massive torque generated by the flat six engine will destroy the splines.

Look what happened to my I/S in 2016:

I’m sorry for your loss, man.

[mello dude]

Wow, nasty! 

[Heathen]

Excited to watch this thread and any new posts from you as well. 

I recently bought a 99 Valk and it's having some issues.  I'm pretty sure I need to take the carb bank off and do a thorough carb job on it, but I've been trying everything else that I can think of first to avoid that, as I'm not particularly mechanically inclined and dreading that job.      Mine was getting about 22 mpg.  I've tried new petcock, new fuel lines, new air filter, new spark plugs, running seafoam, buying high octane gas, and praying to Odin.  So far, none of that has made a difference so I'm thinking I might need to actually work on it.  dang it.

All of which to say I hope you post pics, maybe even video.  Let us know how it goes and any pointers you can think of!

Good luck with your refurbishitment (is that a word?) and I know we're all looking forward to seeing the before and after photos when you're done.  Those seats look really custom, they look awesome with that bike.

Cheers!

[ryno9100]

Brought her home today!

[ryno9100]

Went ahead and took the fuel tank off. First thing I saw was the wasps nest... Thankfully there weren't any wasps.

Second thing I found was that the fuel lines disintegrated and snapped off at the slightest bit of tension.

Third, definitely rust in the tank. It doesn't look as bad as I expected, but it needs fixing. It also smells of old gas, so that's fun. Lol.

[JimC]

You have your work lined up for you. Don't expect it to be over quickly, good luck.
Jim