Handlebars

[DIGGER]

I have a 2001 standard with a 1999 Tourer package...making it like a 2001 Tourer...only they didnt make a 2001 tourer......anyways.....I have stock handlebars but I have a set of bar backs by Kuryakin that bring the handlebars back an inch or two.   My problem is everything worked great for ten yrs or so but now with the bar back bolts as tight as I can get them the handle bars will slip on big bumps and I have to jerk them back in place going down the road.   What product can I use to shim the bars so they will tighten up more?    Dont think glue would work.   What say ye?

[Jess from VA]

Shimming isn't really a satisfactory solution.  You would be better served with a new set of risers (for 1 inch bars).

However, you can try a strip of rubber (like from a bicycle inner tube).

If they are almost tight enough, then the shim better be very thin.  And maybe not all the way around. 

I've never heard of bar backs by Kuryakyn.  If you can post a pic or link to see, it would be helpful.

I had aftermarket mirrors where the stems just would not stay tight at the handlebar mounts.  Hit a bump and they would swing loose.  Torque them so hard, the threads started peeling off.  Used plumbers tape for awhile.  Then threw the whole mirror assemblies away.  And back to stock.   BTW, those mirrors were Kuryakyn large magnum mirrors.  Looked great, worked sucky. 

[98valk]

did you tighten the front screws of the clamps first and then the rear screws per the service manual?

[DIGGER]

did you tighten the front screws of the clamps first and then the rear screws per the service manual?

No I didnt.    Will try that first

[da prez]

Jess , slight disagreement ( never happens on this board). A brass strip is much better than inner tube.  If there is still a gap in the clamps , try using a center punch or sharp chisel to rough up the clamps. They may be worn smooth. Proper torque is the best way to go.

                           da prez

[Jess from VA]

Ross, I've used doubled aluminum foil too (metal). 

But not on any risers.

[DIGGER]

Ill try all these suggestions....thanks

[DIGGER]

Never had a problem till last year when riding the Texas Hill Country I went through some road construction and hit a really rough spot and the downward force of my weight jerked the handle bars way down.   The handlebars have factory grooves where the clamps go.   They are now smooth

[RonW]

..... hit a really rough spot and the downward force of my weight jerked the handle bars way down.   The handlebars have factory grooves where the clamps go.   They are now smooth

The Valk handlebars are serrated at the mating surfaces, or were serrated. Perhaps, whatever the textured surface on the 'bar backs' weren't the best match.

Imho, I don't think shimming the handlbars is the safest thing to do. Under stress, if it gives you might be screwed. I had the handlebars rotate on me one day while sitting on
the Valk in the garage. I last worked on the handlebars months earlier. Until then never felt anything wrong with the handlebars. Turned out that I had torqued all four bolt wrong. All four, so I musta used the wrong ft lbs. The feeling that you get is well I leave it at that.





Myself, I've always torqued the front bolt first. Things end up somewhat like this (exaggerated).




Just for conversation, the tightness doesn't rely 100% on textured surfaces. The clamps aren't full hemispheres. A segment is shaved off or excluded (red, below).




This insures the top clamp never bottoms out however minutely before it's full torque (A). I think it's the same with the brake lever & clutch lever perch.
True, something you couldn't miss.

[WintrSol]

And, if the caps are more like the A drawing in RonW's post, you can use sandpaper stuck to a really flat surface, to make them more like B; doesn't take much, since the gap doesn't have to be very large. Just enough to feel a tiny amount of rocking, so you know contact is better.

[DIGGER]

The bar backs may not be Kuryackn but I think they are.  My solution was to take the caps off and set the handlebars over on the tank then take a hammer and a really sharp chisel and made some new grooves in the inside of the caps and the inside of the bar back part.  Then I hammer and chiseled new grooves on the handlebars them selves.   Then put the caps back on and tightened the top cap bolts first and then the lower cap bolts.   Tightened very tight all bolts.  Rode around the block and they did hood but I did not really jerk on them.  All seems well for the time being.  Time will tell. 

[Jess from VA]

Those risers look a lot like my 4" "pullback risers" by Aeromach.





These are listed for Yami Road Star, but they look the same (one inch bars).  https://store.valueaccessories.net/4pullbackrisersforroadstar.aspx

Back in the day when Honda Direct Line catered to the Valkyrie trade, and even had a special section on their website just for Valkyries, HDL made their own knockoff version of the Aeromach risers.  Long gone.

Mine have never slipped. 

[RonW]

Although I tighten the front bolt first, I don't bottom out the front bolt all the way then jump to the rear bolt. Instead, I tighten the front bolt half way then secondly tighten the rear bolt half way. Then the front bolt again, then the rear bollt, rinse & repeat back and forth until the torque spec is reached. Making sure that the torque wrench clicks on the front bolt first.

I've found that if you tighten the front bolt all the way you won't be able to close even a 1/8 gap in the rear bolt section. A meager half turn on the rear bolt and torque wrench will click and that just can't be right. It's like the torque wrench is registering how much you're prying up the front bolt like a lever vrs. how tightly the rear bolt is pressing the rear section of the riser cap down. Best I can explain.