Hydrolock with brand new OEM petcock

[AZvalkx2]

Hello all. Just registering for account and first post. Been reading and researching issues on here for over a decade. I have 2 '97 valks, can't ride anything else I've found. I AM A NOVICE with working on them; I am a mechanic for the human body (physical therapist)!

So, I have been chasing my tail with getting one of my valks right. Originally, I was dealing with a carb overflow issue; the left assembly was gushing out overflow line. Had just had a "professional" clean and rebuild as I felt I was too busy (mistakes were made) (I had just let the bike sit for a year, was not anticipating but yada things happened after I had my first child (family and friend pressure to stop commuting on MC). So, I tore the carbs out and opened them up, found a terribly displaced float chamber gasket and figured it was impeding the float. Made the bike whole again, and manually opened petcock to prime and gushing persisted AND leak Right assembly @ "fuel rail".
Needless to say, this is when I learned to test prior to putting everything back together. Replaced O rings on R (actually the whole fuel rail, but did not find any defect on fuel rail itself) fixed that leak. But, overflow persisted until replacing float needles (a few trials here... some less used OEM needles on ebay did not work-maybe just too much wear at tip? all balls seemed to do okay, but so sloppy on the float when assembled (I would say after all this, replacing floats after 50k is a good idea, I am just too poor- so bought some less used and much better shape floats on ebay and this helped), last trial I settled with the K&L needle (I felt it made up for wear in float shelf and seemed to improve float ht etc).
Anyway, in the middle of those trials I had good enough results and made the bike whole, got her running and toodled around the block (did feel right-vacuum leak somewhere- since corrected and improved). Next day- CLUNK. Hydrolocked. Ripped the bike apart, removing the runners I see 4/6 cylinders full of gas. Yada yada, bought a new petcock and went with the K&L (replaced the vacuum lines systems) and bike ran well. Felt great. TWENTY MINUTES eating dinner, back out tried starting and CLUNK. With the brand new petcock?

Is it possible for any other cause for the obvious petcock failure? Or something else I am missing here? I really appreciate all help.
Thanks

[Willow]

A hydrolock requires a failing float.  There are discussions claiming that there is enough fuel in the lines to bring on a hydrolock even if the petcock isn't allowing additional fuel.

[98valk]

Posted By: 98valk <fitness7days@nospam.juno.com>
Date: 9/4/2008 at 12:30:31

In Response To: Another hydrolock question (G-Man (Gary in NY))

this is from Rider mag sept 1988 about the '88 goldwing Gl1500.
they had the hydro-lock problem and it turned out to be the bowl vent hose was sagging. "the low spot fills with gas and prevents air circulation, much like a sink trap. without a connection to atmosphere, the float bowls pressurize and raw fuel is forced up and out of the carbs through the needle jet. From there gravity takes the fuel down the intake runners. if that cylinder has an open intake valve, hydrolock." "The article states that honda issued a Product Update kit on a fix in feb of that yr which included a metal air-vent pipe and a vacuum fuel valve."
Looking at the service manual pics in the carb section it shows the vent hoses as straight sections just laying loosely on top of other hoses. My 98's vent hoses have a 90 degree end. the end is installed into holes in the rear carb support frame.
So this might be the reason and cause of the problem for some bikes.

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/forum/vrcc_tech.cgi?noframes;read=1274246

honda service bulletin fix

http://www.goldwingworld.com/pages/sb1.pdf

[f-Stop]

Howdy AZvalkx2!

A hydrolock requires a failing float.  There are discussions claiming that there is enough fuel in the lines to bring on a hydrolock even if the petcock isn't allowing additional fuel.

↑↑ Yep, there was a Texas (Houston area) rider who replaced their petcock assembly due to hydrolock.  Then hydrolock happened again...he eventually found a sticking float which was the culprit.

[ckahler]

Partzilla sells Honda float valves for $31 each and the petcock is $135. Get the good stuff.
While float valves are for regulating fuel level, they also work as fuel shut offs 99% of the time. If 2 out of 6 cylinders were flooded, your new float valves are junk.
Whenever you have a carb rack out of a bike, check the functioning of the float valves several times, with a fuel bottle, before installing back on the bike.

[98valk]

Howdy AZvalkx2!

A hydrolock requires a failing float.  There are discussions claiming that there is enough fuel in the lines to bring on a hydrolock even if the petcock isn't allowing additional fuel.

↑↑ Yep, there was a Texas (Houston area) rider who replaced their petcock assembly due to hydrolock.  Then hydrolock happened again...he eventually found a sticking float which was the culprit.

the bowl overflow tube is the culprit. not routed correctly or clogged. if the float needle valve fails the next place the fuel can go is out the overflow. if the vent malfunctions then fuel will go up the needle well and into the carb throat and down into the intake tract.
this is how a carb functions and is designed to do so.

[turtle254]

the bowl overflow tube is the culprit. not routed correctly or clogged. if the float needle valve fails the next place the fuel can go is out the overflow. if the vent malfunctions then fuel will go up the needle well and into the carb throat and down into the intake tract.
this is how a carb functions and is designed to do so.
[/quote]
I thought the vent tube was the only line off bowl? Where is the overflow tube located or the carb? PIC's
The vent line rises so it wont allow an overflow, right. Cant find any thing but blow drain line and vent.

[AZvalkx2]

Thanks for all the thoughts so far, I appreciate it!

I understand the failure is ultimately at the float/valve level not plugging up appropriately. However, until now was under the impression the petcock must first be failing to stop flow. But, if people have noted this issue without the presence of petcock failure I would not doubt it with the pressure of gas in tubes at shutoff (I guess you just need to run them out a bit before shutoff???--- I have never had these issues in the past, on either bike as daily riders, so just at a loss with this). I would eventually always have a drip out where intake runner connects with manual filling of carbs to look for leaks etc while off the bike.

To be clear, I did replace float valves AND bought newer floats vs mine. (NEVER had these issues). Feel like I am missing something.

In regards to these vent lines, I am unsure what you mean. The only lines off the carbs are the drain lines (maybe I am wrong on what they are called).

In regards to blockage of overflow, my initial issue was with overflow being VERY functional (gushing). I guess I will look into seeing if I jostled anything with pulling apart and cleaning etc, BUT I think that would be strange to develop on both sides. And, I feel like that may be an issue with running pronged (higher pressure) on dysfunctional float, but not really with sitting off for 15 minutes.

Again thanks and please keep the perspectives coming.

[hubcapsc]

bought a new petcock...

Again thanks and please keep the perspectives coming.

I think gas needs to drip past your petcock and also one or more
float valves. I'd be real suspicious of your petcock... A new OEM
vacuum petcock is what you have? It should be easy to test
it...

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/petcock.htm

-Mike

[The emperor has no clothes]

bought a new petcock...

Again thanks and please keep the perspectives coming.

I think gas needs to drip past your petcock and also one or more
float valves. I'd be real suspicious of your petcock... A new OEM
vacuum petcock is what you have? It should be easy to test
it...

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/petcock.htm

-Mike

I was a little confused about his petcock. In the title he said he went with a OEM petcock, but then later said he went with a K&L and removed the vacuum line (if I understood it correctly).

I think a DanMarc fuel shutoff provides a lot of peace of mind in regards to hydro lock.

[Gondul]

I think a DanMarc fuel shutoff provides a lot of peace of mind in regards to hydro lock.

Sure doesn't as there is still fuel in the line.

I shut my Pingel about a mile from the house and I'm usually sputtering by the time I make it into the garage... 25yrs and no issues.

[The emperor has no clothes]

I think a DanMarc fuel shutoff provides a lot of peace of mind in regards to hydro lock.

Sure doesn't as there is still fuel in the line.

I shut my Pingel about a mile from the house and I'm usually sputtering by the time I make it into the garage... 25yrs and no issues.

Yes, there is still fuel in the line. But the effect of the DanMarc is similar to how holding your finger on a full straw of soda doesn’t allow any to escape. Whereas a damaged petcock could allow the line to leak down. (I can turn my OEM petcock off and have the same result as the Pingel)

I’m not trying to argue the case of OEM petcocks, Pingels, etc. I was giving the OP another option to consider.

[ckahler]

It is easy to check your petcock. Disconnect the fuel and vacuum hoses. Fuel should not flow in any of the 3 positions. Dry any fuel from around the outlet. Make sure no fuel drips in any positon. Not a drop in 10 minutes.
Fuel should only flow when suction is applied to the vacuum nipple and the petcock is in the ON or RES positions.

[turtle254]

Lines and fuel rails = more than enough to lock your engine. Has happen to me on trailing bike over rough
roads with fuel off. Caused by my floats bouncing and dumping fuel from lines and rails to engine.