2000 Valkyrie Interstate harsh front forks

[bkValk]

I picked up a 2000 Interstate late summer.
Only 63000 km.
Several improvements I want to do, but I'll start with the front suspension.
Very harsh over bumps, yet sitting still and rocking the bike back and forth gave the cushy feel I'd expect.
So an issue with compression damping.
Looking at the parts diagram, is all compression & rebound damping done by the cartridge in the right fork leg?
Does this 23yr old fork oil get sludgy, orifices blocked?
Also, fork seals started to leak about a month after I got the bike.
So, fork job.
Reading the forum, I'm going to switch to the Progressive springs.
Oil choice, many forum opinions.  The stock oil SS-8 is 10w, I think I'd like to move to a 7.5w, maybe 5.
I'm getting Honda OEM seal kit.
Getting a new guide bushing and slider bushing also (I only want to go into these forks once).
Has anyone found the Damping Cartridge to be damaged?  No longer an available Honda replacement part.

[hubcapsc]

Sounds like you're going about it right to me.

I have Progressive springs, I rebuilt mine using the procedure in the
factory service manual which lists all the wear parts to replace. I like
my forks. Serviced Valkyrie forks are pretty good.

There's a couple of special tools that change  the rebuild
experience from frustrating to fun.

I refill using the "measure from the top" outlined in the manual, rather
than the "by volume" way. Don't forget to fill the damper...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tikm2dBQ56I

I have a friend with a 2002 VTX-1800, his forks seem like they need
a rebuild too, I might get a chance to look inside some forks again
soon...

-Mike

[98valk]

I picked up a 2000 Interstate late summer.
Only 63000 km.
Several improvements I want to do, but I'll start with the front suspension.
Very harsh over bumps, yet sitting still and rocking the bike back and forth gave the cushy feel I'd expect.
So an issue with compression damping.
Looking at the parts diagram, is all compression & rebound damping done by the cartridge in the right fork leg?
Does this 23yr old fork oil get sludgy, orifices blocked?
Also, fork seals started to leak about a month after I got the bike.
So, fork job.
Reading the forum, I'm going to switch to the Progressive springs.
Oil choice, many forum opinions.  The stock oil SS-8 is 10w, I think I'd like to move to a 7.5w, maybe 5.
I'm getting Honda OEM seal kit.
Getting a new guide bushing and slider bushing also (I only want to go into these forks once).
Has anyone found the Damping Cartridge to be damaged?  No longer an available Honda replacement part.

I/S forks have bad valving which gives the harsh ride. Honda was trying to compensate for the extra weight of the fairing and larger tank. The correct way for extra weight is always to use stronger springs, but that would have been an extra part number.
Std/tourer forks are valved correctly.
using a thinner weight fork oil will reduce the harshness.
 
I even use a thinner oil in my std forks for an even better ride.

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,126543.0.html
 how to stop leaking fork seals
« on: September 23, 2023, 09:43:17 AM »
   Reply with quoteQuote Modify messageModify Remove messageRemove
I added some ATP AT-205 re-seal to fork fluid.   500 miles later, zero leakage.  at 1k miles now still dry.
many fork oils already have some seal sweller in them, I know the Amsoil fluid I use does, so I just added some more and a better product.

https://atpautomotive.com/fluids-and-additives/re-seal

scotty kilmer approved.

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Scotty+Kilmer+at-205

[RonW]

Has anyone found the Damping Cartridge to be damaged?  No longer an available Honda replacement part.

I'd suggest against removing the damper rod since if you strip the threads ect. it's a discontinued product, if we talking about the same thing. Others remove it, I don't. I don't have an Interstate but it sounds like it might have Progressive springs in it and/or the PO maybe used 15W.




Don't know if you've done the Valkyrie forks before but here's a graphic of the Right Fork. Only 4 parts in there. Simplest thing you've ever done. I didn't do a graphic of the Left Fork but there's a special tool required or you can diy it.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

You might want to bookmark these links for VTX1800 forks. They use the same internal parts as the Valk forks

• bareasschoppers
  
• NorthStarRiders has a go around for the special tool for the left fork.
  

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Raymore Repair [Valkyrie forks] ..... Right Fork, Left Fork

Raymore states if you do one fork at a time, the fender doesn't have to be removed and also those pesky chrome fork shields.

Only left fork removed. Fender still on.



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Don't forget to measure A and B before you disassemble the parts. They suppose to be the same. What is the 'same' varies. Some people use the axle as a gauge instead. If the left fork is too high for the axle to go through bulls eye, they lower the left fork by adjusting the left locknut accordingly.



Regular wrenches are too thick to remove the locknuts without a lot of prying. The open end wrench in the oem tool pouch is thin enough to fit.

[DragonRdr]

I had the forks done on my Interstate a couple of years ago. I had the local bike shop install new seals, progressive springs and the stock fork oil. The front forks were a little stiff at first, but after riding for a while the softened up. Rides great now.  

[RonW]

bkValk, on a second thought, go ahead and pull the damper rod. It's of utmost importance that I know whether A is threaded or unthreaded, thanks.

[bkValk]

Thanks all for the quick responses and graphics.
I'd love to do the job myself, but I'm super busy at work and don't have the garage space right now.
I am having a local mechanic do the work (who serviced the bike for the previous owner).
He's done many fork jobs on Gold Wing 1500's and 1800's, and recommended the progressive springs.
I've decided to use the Motul Factory 7.5 Fork Oil.
(unless someone says I must go thinner)

Browsing the forum, I also found this fantastic graphic:
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnkAQ-3pfrWwiqkjr-Wfz31ecRX_LDbpV0WivVnH_ZB8h1PazHvmlsKoSicz0PPi6rW3heG4Kdsq3rNhVp2DXmnvaUokKX95p7Swa0wIp_klfVpzk8n3vchWyjTfe_LWJUVdkvWp8v_qxdKwxnmDuNSN28kVWKY0iIAymCQUuOdAZdrnEV67Glx1w/s1728/Re%20Fork%20oil%20question.png

[Jess from VA]

I'm no ace mechanic.  Years ago I paid a dealer high price for a fork rebuild (standard wear parts and standard 10wt fork oil), and ended up with terribly harsh forks (for several years).  They wanted to get paid gain, to do them again, and I would not pay them anything more, so I lived with it.

Since that time, there have been many threads on here about fork rebuilds, and I seem to recall that one consensus was that (aside from adding any ordinary wear parts, if needed), the trick was to use standard 10 wt fork oil, but to reduce the factory recommended amounts by an ounce or two on each side.  An ounce or two under recommended never made anyone's forks sloppy (that I ever read about). 

And BTW, I have read that all available fork oils are not the same.  One company's 10wt might be closer to another company's 15wt.  Keep that in mind too.   

[hubcapsc]

That is a nice graphic... at #4 where you're trying to mash down on the collar to slip
that washer back in, the damper rod is trying to sink down into the fork leg  ...

Browsing the forum, I also found this fantastic graphic:
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnkAQ-3pfrWwiqkjr-Wfz31ecRX_LDbpV0WivVnH_ZB8h1PazHvmlsKoSicz0PPi6rW3heG4Kdsq3rNhVp2DXmnvaUokKX95p7Swa0wIp_klfVpzk8n3vchWyjTfe_LWJUVdkvWp8v_qxdKwxnmDuNSN28kVWKY0iIAymCQUuOdAZdrnEV67Glx1w/s1728/Re%20Fork%20oil%20question.png

[RNFWP]

I'm no ace mechanic.  Years ago I paid a dealer high price for a fork rebuild (standard wear parts and standard 10wt fork oil), and ended up with terribly harsh forks (for several years).  They wanted to get paid gain, to do them again, and I would not pay them anything more, so I lived with it.

Since that time, there have been many threads on here about fork rebuilds, and I seem to recall that one consensus was that (aside from adding any ordinary wear parts, if needed), the trick was to use standard 10 wt fork oil, but to reduce the factory recommended amounts by an ounce or two on each side.  An ounce or two under recommended never made anyone's forks sloppy (that I ever read about). 

And BTW, I have read that all available fork oils are not the same.  One company's 10wt might be closer to another company's 15wt.  Keep that in mind too.   

I'm not a mechanic either... ONCE, several years ago I managed to successfully replace my seals and fluid. 
So I haven't experienced this, but I recall that if the if the steps to align the forks on the axle aren't correct that it can also cause a binding/harsh ride.

[Itinifni]

I purchased a 97 standard with less than 30k miles on the clock, I was the 3rd owner. The bike looked unmolested which is what I was looking for but the front suspension was incredibly harsh.

When I pulled the forks for inspection I found they were significantly overfilled. I didn't measure the amount of oil or would even venture a guess. I can only assume a previous owner was trying to compensate for the under-sprung stock setup.

I had already purchased Progressive springs (based on previous experience with them) and don't believe in making more that one change at a time. I installed the new springs  with the factory fill of Honda SS-8 figuring I would evaluate and adjust oil if needed. That was six years ago and I've found no reason to revisit the issue.

I guess my point is be careful making multiple changes at once, particularly when you don't know the current condition of the forks. If you have a trusted mechanic I would ask his opinion on the oil viscosity and level.

Good luck!

[Bagger John - #3785]

I/S forks have bad valving which gives the harsh ride. Honda was trying to compensate for the extra weight of the fairing and larger tank. The correct way for extra weight is always to use stronger springs, but that would have been an extra part number.
Std/tourer forks are valved correctly.
using a thinner weight fork oil will reduce the harshness.

My Tourer has an I/S trunk, rear shocks, tank, radiator, front fender and pods. The fairing is a Bat Wing (Memphis) with a National Cycle light bar and Kuryakyn turn signals. There's also a full complement of electronics and instrumentation that gets it very close to I/S weight.

I kept the stock damper unit when I rebuilt its forks. Springs are Hyperpro and I used 10wt fork oil. The resulting ride (w/ rear preload set to 4 or 5, depending on passenger) is VERY compliant and smooth. Not too shallow; not too harsh.

These will have to be torn down again soon due to leaking All Balls seals. Going back to Honda OEM.

I have a set of Interstate forks in a box and another set on the I/S. I'm torn at this point between finding a Tourer damper assembly and doing the same Hyperpro rebuild or sending them off to Traxxion for a complete conversion.

[98valk]

I/S forks have bad valving which gives the harsh ride. Honda was trying to compensate for the extra weight of the fairing and larger tank. The correct way for extra weight is always to use stronger springs, but that would have been an extra part number.
Std/tourer forks are valved correctly.
using a thinner weight fork oil will reduce the harshness.

My Tourer has an I/S trunk, rear shocks, tank, radiator, front fender and pods. The fairing is a Bat Wing (Memphis) with a National Cycle light bar and Kuryakyn turn signals. There's also a full complement of electronics and instrumentation that gets it very close to I/S weight.

I kept the stock damper unit when I rebuilt its forks. Springs are Hyperpro and I used 10wt fork oil. The resulting ride (w/ rear preload set to 4 or 5, depending on passenger) is VERY compliant and smooth. Not too shallow; not too harsh.

These will have to be torn down again soon due to leaking All Balls seals. Going back to Honda OEM.

I have a set of Interstate forks in a box and another set on the I/S. I'm torn at this point between finding a Tourer damper assembly and doing the same Hyperpro rebuild or sending them off to Traxxion for a complete conversion.

nice setup.

ATP will stop the leaking forks

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,126543.0.html
 how to stop leaking fork seals
« on: September 23, 2023, 09:43:17 AM »
   Reply with quoteQuote Modify messageModify Remove messageRemove
I added some ATP AT-205 re-seal to fork fluid.   500 miles later, zero leakage.  at 1k miles now still dry.
many fork oils already have some seal sweller in them, I know the Amsoil fluid I use does, so I just added some more and a better product.

https://atpautomotive.com/fluids-and-additives/re-seal

scotty kilmer approved.

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Scotty+Kilmer+at-205

[Challenger]

Interesting thread, but my I/S was just the opposite.  The front end was so soft it would dive almost to the stops with very light fron braking. Especially bad when two up. Installed progressive springs an correct amount of Honda fork oil.  Did not change valving. Suspension is great and very little dive under hard braking. YMMV

[hubcapsc]

Installed progressive springs an correct amount of Honda fork oil.

 

-Mike

[Joe333x]

Interesting thread, but my I/S was just the opposite.  The front end was so soft it would dive almost to the stops with very light fron braking. Especially bad when two up. Installed progressive springs an correct amount of Honda fork oil.  Did not change valving. Suspension is great and very little dive under hard braking. YMMV

Do you have a part number or link for the progressive springs?

[hubcapsc]

https://www.progressivesuspension.com/assets/files/5/3055-111.pdf

-Mike

[Challenger]

Do you have a part number or link for the progressive springs?

[/quote]https://www.progressivesuspension.com/product/1465/fork-spring-kit

[Joe333x]

Do you have a part number or link for the progressive springs?

https://www.progressivesuspension.com/product/1465/fork-spring-kit
[/quote]

https://www.progressivesuspension.com/assets/files/5/3055-111.pdf

-Mike

Thanks guys! Any recommendations on rear suspension?

[hubcapsc]

I've always had 13 inch Progressive 440 shocks, rebuilt once. They make 444 now, and
don't size them for a Valkyrie, but people here can give you spring rate and whatever
other details you'd need to get an appropriate set. Another option: I may one day
call up Traxxion Dynamics in Georgia and get them to size me for a set of
Bitubo shocks. I know one fellow who did it and likes it. I like suspension stuff
they did for my 1800.

-Mike

Do you have a part number or link for the progressive springs?

https://www.progressivesuspension.com/product/1465/fork-spring-kit

https://www.progressivesuspension.com/assets/files/5/3055-111.pdf

-Mike

Thanks guys! Any recommendations on rear suspension?
[/quote]

[98valk]

Do you have a part number or link for the progressive springs?

https://www.progressivesuspension.com/product/1465/fork-spring-kit

https://www.progressivesuspension.com/assets/files/5/3055-111.pdf

-Mike

Thanks guys! Any recommendations on rear suspension?
[/quote]

any OEM shock except the '97-'98 shocks.
I run the I/S shocks on my std/tourer with I/S tank. zero problems with them on setting number 3.

[hubcapsc]

Have you ever tried any others? I ran Stanley Steamer's Interstate shocks for a couple of
months while I was sending my Progressives off to be rebuilt. He had changed his shocks
out for a set of 412s. He didn't see much difference. I was thrilled to get my Progressives
back.

-Mike

any OEM shock except the '97-'98 shocks.
I run the I/S shocks on my std/tourer with I/S tank. zero problems with them on setting number 3.

[98valk]

Have you ever tried any others? I ran Stanley Steamer's Interstate shocks for a couple of
months while I was sending my Progressives off to be rebuilt. He had changed his shocks
out for a set of 412s. He didn't see much difference. I was thrilled to get my Progressives
back.

-Mike

any OEM shock except the '97-'98 shocks.
I run the I/S shocks on my std/tourer with I/S tank. zero problems with them on setting number 3.

nope none others. went from the terrible '98 shocks to the I/S shocks.

[Joe333x]

Have you ever tried any others? I ran Stanley Steamer's Interstate shocks for a couple of
months while I was sending my Progressives off to be rebuilt. He had changed his shocks
out for a set of 412s. He didn't see much difference. I was thrilled to get my Progressives
back.

-Mike

any OEM shock except the '97-'98 shocks.
I run the I/S shocks on my std/tourer with I/S tank. zero problems with them on setting number 3.

So progressive makes both front and rear suspensions for the valk? I'll probably go that route then.

[hubcapsc]

So progressive makes both front and rear suspensions for the valk? I'll probably go that route then.

You can get fork springs and shocks. They quit making the
440 shocks that I have, now they are 444. They no longer
specifying a size for crummy old Valkyries, but there
are 444 sizes that are appropriate for Valkyries. I scribbled
these numbers down in the past when people were
talking about the 444s that they got:

444-4057C
444-4221C

13 inch is the default size for Valkyries.

Maybe make a post with subject = "what size 444 shocks?"
and the people who have them will post details...

-Mike

[Joe333x]

So progressive makes both front and rear suspensions for the valk? I'll probably go that route then.

You can get fork springs and shocks. They quit making the
440 shocks that I have, now they are 444. They no longer
specifying a size for crummy old Valkyries, but there
are 444 sizes that are appropriate for Valkyries. I scribbled
these numbers down in the past when people were
talking about the 444s that they got:

444-4057C
444-4221C

13 inch is the default size for Valkyries.

Maybe make a post with subject = "what size 444 shocks?"
and the people who have them will post details...

-Mike

Thanks!