New to Valkyrie

[DannyP]

Hello from Western North Carolina. Finally after 20 years I have a Valkyrie. It is in need of a deep cleaning but runs great. I have concerns that the maintenance on this bike has been ignored. It is a 2000 CT I believe. The previous owner had some after market trunk on it that interfered with the saddlebags opening so he just scratched them up pulling them around the trunk. I am replacing all fluids and filters along with the brake pads and tires (CT on the back) Bike has 50k miles.
Is there anything that I should be checking? I don't have a service manual yet. Is there anywhere that I can find a passenger backrest?
I have been looking around the forum and it seems like a great community of riders. are there any Valk owners in Western North Carolina on here.

[Gondul]

For parts you'll have to scour the secondary market... bay, FB Market Place, the classified section here or there are a couple of FB Valkyrie Buy/Sell groups but just have to be wary of scammers.

A modicum of caution will usually keep you safe, sadly too many are eager to but a part and ignore the warning signs. 

You can download the manual from here...
It is an old scan but  readable.

https://web.archive.org/web/20220328115011/http://www.valkyrienorway.com/download.html

[Jims99]

Welcome Danny. Sounds like you’re on the right track with maintenance. Make sure you use quality fluids and parts. These bikes are different than anything else, not much of anything is interchangeable with any other bike. Personally I only use oem brake pads, air filter ect. I would also run a little B12 or Techron in every few tanks, I also will put marvel mystery oil in every few tanks along with non ethanol gas whenever possible. (They definitely like it better) Final drive maintenance is very important with every tire change or every 10k miles. There’s a ton of great info and plenty of great people here willing to help. This is one of the best and smartest places for info and places to get parts and future rides. I’m sure there’s a few people around your area, we’re everywhere. Definitely get a manual, worth every penny. These things were made to run 300k+ miles. Keep up with your maintenance and enjoy the ride.

[h13man]

OEM petcock failure can cause hydrolock but a leaking float valve will be the cause of hydrolock. I have a manual petcock and shut it off everytime just like all gravity fed bikes of earlier years. Always replace all 3 o'rings in the hub when changing the rear tire.

[old2soon]

    I can NOT Stress enough on the rear end service of a Valkyrie to Follow Procedure to The LETTER! And it Is NOT that Difficult if you've turned wrenches before and PROCEDURE Will eliminate many ills when done Properly. You can research this tech board and most of yer questions have already been answered. Valkyries Are in a League of their Own!  WELCOME to Our Electronic clubhouse!  Git er runnin right and good to go look at the Inzane 2024 listing. It IS being held in Dubuque Ia. this year and Inzane is ALWAYS lotsa fun. I've NEVER seen a week fly by as fast as Inzane does! RIDE SAFE.

[DannyP]

Thanks to everyone for responding with the great information on the Valk. for the last 3-4 years I have rode Harleys, still have an Ultra Limited 2012 and traded an 06 Ultra Classic for the Valkyrie. As I swapped out the back tire I noticed the O-rings and did not replace them but did inspect them, still soft and pliable. I will replace them if you all think I should. The old tire was not wore out I just prefer a CT on the back. I should fall right in with a maintenance program as I don't like being stranded. There is a good source of non ethanol fuel locally so that is good.
Just waiting on brakes and a backrest now. not sure about the backrest I ordered but if I need to I think I can manufacture one myself and my new bride of 44 years is a heck of a seamstress.
Hey thank you for the link to the book I have already downloaded it and am thumbing through it.

Thanks again and Happy Easter

[The emperor has no clothes]

Not just replace the o-rings, but full service the rear.

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/rear_end_service.pptx

[Joe333x]

This is the lube you want for the splines on the rear end.
https://www.beemershop.com/product/ts-60-spline-lube.html

These are the 3 o rings that need to be replaced.
https://redeye.ecrater.com/p/18218041/final-drive-o-rings-for-valkyrie-polyurethane?keywords=O+ring

[DannyP]

Thanks guys, I ordered the orings and already have the lub that came with my BMW but didn't leave with it.

[98valk]

https://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,116696.40.html
Re: Broke down yesterday
« Reply #56 on: May 24, 2021, 06:21:35 PM »
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So my conclusion is to make sure the U-Joint splines are correctly lubricated, to prevent the drive shaft to final drive splines aka spline coupling (SC) from wearing out. I also installed a new driveshaft to spline cup seal every other tire change.

The SC in a perfect application would have zero forward/rearward movement and would be submerged in oil which would result in zero wear and fretting. Fretting is a type of corrosion which gives that rust powder look. Is not from water intrusion. In some applications they actually glue the splines together to stop movement.

Honda provided the locking spring clip on the SC end of the drive shaft to help reduce movement of the SC, but it is still not a solid zero movement connection. So this is where the lubricated U-joint splines come into effect, thereby doing all of the movement, to reduce or actually eliminate any SC movement.

In a few of the links I provide it is stated that the SC splines should be hardened to greatly reduce wear.  Did Honda do this to the parts?

In my case I inadvertently mixed greases with different bases for the u-joint splines, by re-greasing and not cleaning off the old grease.
My fault, at the time, I didn't realize they had different bases. So what happened the greases started to dry out and not provide the easy sliding movement as needed and the SC failed in 17k miles.

For re-installing the U-Joint boot I coated the inside lips with silicone grease and it pops on with zero problems. suggest not to use a silicone spray which has petroleum products in it and other things which could degrade the boot material.

So to bring this all together, proper lubrication of the u-joint splines is extremely important and should be done every tire change to protect the SC. 
This time I used moly bearing chassis grease for the U-Joint for even more friction reduction and easier sliding.

For the SC I mixed TS-70 moly paste with some high temp grease so there would be about a 50/50 moly to grease ratio as recommended by the Dan Foss pdf which is a much higher percent of moly than the 3% moly grease the Honda manual calls for.

The following documents have some very good info about SCs and lubrication requirements.

https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/693/fretting-wear

https://www.powertransmission.com/issues/0214/spline-couplings.pdf

https://assets.danfoss.com/documents/76142/AI152986482538en-000304.pdf

https://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=423609

https://gearsolutions.com/departments/tooth-tips-a-brief-overview-of-splines/

https://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=383504

[DannyP]

OK, OK. Ha Ha I will toss the old grease out and order the new stuff. I sure don't want to have problems because I cheated out on a little grease.

[The emperor has no clothes]

OK, OK. Ha Ha I will toss the old grease out and order the new stuff. I sure don't want to have problems because I cheated out on a little grease.

There has been much debate about what grease is the best over the years. I think the main thing is to clean, replace o-rings, regrease, and reinstall in the correct sequence. Your BMW grease will probably be just fine.

[gordonv]

It's already been mentioned about the rear end service and the cautionary note on hydro lock.

The other item for a new owner is the enricher lever (chock) and learn how it works and how to use it. Every bike behaves differently on it, so what works for me may not work for you. Know that when you press that lever down, you're just taking up the slack in the cable, then give it another 1/2 push down to move those 6 whatever they are called chocks.

Shoptalk has a wealth of info, and all worth reading. I joined and read thru here about 6 months before I pick up my 1st Valkyrie to learn what I could of what to look out for and how to fix it.

Before doing any work on your bike, research and/or ask questions, that are a lot of people here who will help you out.

It's always nicer to add your location and style of bike in your profile, so people don't need to ask those questions when you post.

Enjoy the ride.

[DannyP]

I pulled the slave cylinder out for the clutch today. What a mess. I didn't know that brake fluid could crystalize. I had to carefully chip the crust out. well the rebuild kits are ordered and will be here Sunday.
The kid I got the bike from said the carbs had been rebuilt so I shouldn't have to worry about those. what else comes to mind that I should check that I may not be aware of?

[Pluggy]

Hello, Danny.  Brake fluid, clutch fluid and coolant are every two years.  Some owners might figure they can go longer if they don't ride often or ride hard.   It don't work that way.  One thing to do is grease the kickstand mechanism, including where the spring hooks onto the post.

Check the four bolts that hold the muffler bracket, and the passenger foot pegs.  They can loosen up and fall out.

[98valk]

Hello, Danny.  Brake fluid, clutch fluid and coolant are every two years.  Some owners might figure they can go longer if they don't ride often or ride hard.   It don't work that way.  One thing to do is grease the kickstand mechanism, including where the spring hooks onto the post.

Check the four bolts that hold the muffler bracket, and the passenger foot pegs.  They can loosen up and fall out.

"" Brake fluid, clutch fluid""  replacement time has nothing to do with how the motorcycle is ridden on the street. It all has to do about the wet boiling point and how much humidity the motorcycle is always in. I use brake fluid which has a higher wet boiling than common DOT 4 which allows change out normally at 3-4 yrs, maybe longer due to new formulations in higher end brake fluid.  brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air right thru the brake lines and even the plastic bottles it is in on the shelf. Fluid I use is in metal cans.

[DannyP]

 Got it clutch and brake fluid. Waiting on parts for clutch slave cylinder  and brakes. I have coolant  that is all makes all models should I be more specific. Waiting on o-rings for the rear. The good thing about waiting is I have time to clean and polish   

[98valk]

Got it clutch and brake fluid. Waiting on parts for clutch slave cylinder  and brakes. I have coolant  that is all makes all models should I be more specific. Waiting on o-rings for the rear. The good thing about waiting is I have time to clean and polish   

coolant has to be silica free to protect the water pump.
 Or life time Evans coolant. https://evanscoolant.com/
Evans has been in my valkyrie since '01. 

[DannyP]

My brother has 2 Hondas (1300 & 1800) he had Honda coolant so I am good there. Clutch parts should be in today, o-rings early in the week brakes by Friday hopefully riding Saturday. ki will try to post pictures but have been unsuccessful so far. Thanks for all the help. If anyone is in WNC give mea shout and maybe we can ride together.

[Pluggy]

Danny, let me suggest that you "survey" the bike as you service it.  Compare the bike to the Service Manual to determine if wiring, vacuum, exhaust, etc. has been modified. 

Some eager owners tap into the wiring and end up making an unreliable mess.  Now is a good time to look for potential problems.

Pluggy
(Central NC)

[DannyP]

yes that is good advice as I have already found some wiring that is less than desirable.
Underglow lighting can look good but if it is haphazardly stuck on and wires ran out in the open along with unsightly switches it detracts from the whole bike. There was a a radio blue tooth thing cable tied to the handle bars along with a cigarette lighter charger outlet wired to the bars besides the speakers that were bolted on. Now all that stuff could have been done tastefully but it wasn't. I may keep some of those things but they will back with order and everything that can be hidden will be.

[Pluggy]

Danny, I helped a young guy with a dead Yamaha.   Poor workmanship connecting an accessory box killed the electrical system.  He needed a tow as the bike failed at night on the bridge between Tampa and St. Pete.  

And, a fellow here in Moore County bought a used Valkyrie and figured "a can of Sea Foam should get her running right".  Sorry, that bike has been modified into a mechanical and electrical mystery.  I don't think he rides it, now.

My experience was a "mod"  by the previous owner of my Triumph.  Killed the engine in rainy Washington DC.  I got it going.

So, it might be a good time to look the bike over carefully.

[Joe333x]

Got it clutch and brake fluid. Waiting on parts for clutch slave cylinder  and brakes. I have coolant  that is all makes all models should I be more specific. Waiting on o-rings for the rear. The good thing about waiting is I have time to clean and polish   

Just curious what was wrong with your slave and how you knew? I rebuilt and replaced lots of stuff on my valk I got last year including clutch fluid and it seems to be operating, just wondering what to look for with the slave, it not leaking.

[DannyP]

Hey Joe333x its a simple explanation. I tried to check the fluid in the reservoir and one of the screws had been stripped out that was the first sign that something might be wrong. I drilled it out got the cap off and the fluid in it looked a bit like chunky honey, that was the second sign. from that point I knew I had to check the slave cylinder. When I removed it I could see that it had been leaking inside. There is a little void behind the slave cylinder and the housing that was full of crystalized brake fluid. That was the big sign. Also below the slave cylinder I wiped the case down and wiped the paint off with the crude....Dang. Brake fluid will do that.
Anyway the story goes " follow the trail to the source". hope this helps.

[Joe333x]

Hey Joe333x its a simple explanation. I tried to check the fluid in the reservoir and one of the screws had been stripped out that was the first sign that something might be wrong. I drilled it out got the cap off and the fluid in it looked a bit like chunky honey, that was the second sign. from that point I knew I had to check the slave cylinder. When I removed it I could see that it had been leaking inside. There is a little void behind the slave cylinder and the housing that was full of crystalized brake fluid. That was the big sign. Also below the slave cylinder I wiped the case down and wiped the paint off with the crude....Dang. Brake fluid will do that.
Anyway the story goes " follow the trail to the source". hope this helps.

Are there o-rings that seal the slave from leaking? I'd like to remove mine just to be sure its fine but dont want to remove it without having orings on hand that may need tk be replace if I do. I just road around miles today though and everything since to be working, when I replaced the clutch fluid it wasn't that bad looking, definitely wasnt chunky.

[DannyP]

If you have concerns you should check it out. just pull the slave cylinder off and have a peek. I  think you can remove the bolt for the bleeder line, remove the three bolts on the cylinder without removing the banjo bolt for the hydraulic line. there may be enough slack to remove the slave cylinder without cracking the line. just look behind it and you will know it it is leaking. My clutch worked just fine also, but it wasn't going to for long. You might also se some fluid below the slave cylinder that would be a telltale sign.
Please do not depress the clutch lever while the slave cylinder is out.
I hope this rambling is making sense.

[Speedy Coop]

On any bike that the brake or clutch fluid looks bad, I disassemble the masters to clean  them out. You would be surprised at the gunk you find in them. I also do the same for brake calipers.

[da prez]

   All fluids , have evolved and changed. Universal (?) fluid is a no-no in my opinion.  Brake fluid has a dot number.  I have at least five different brake fluids on the shelf.  They are not universal. The Valk has a specific diet.  Wrong fluid mix is what caused what you described.  Some old school mechanics (I relearned) do not pay attention to the new specs.  My Valk is taken care of by the ,our book. Research on this board is beyond amazing. There is a Valk owner near by. Ask for help.
 My next clean out in the garage will be the O L D fluids that take up space .

                                               da prez
  I just finished a trike for my brother , the wiring was Hold my beer and watch this 

[Jess from VA]

From the Web:

Most manufacturers recommend that any open bottle of DOT brake fluid should be used within 12 months, or else discarded.    Brake fluid is hygroscopic; it attracts and absorbs water from the surrounding atmosphere. 

Why do the work and then add questionable fluid?

How many of you heathens keep the old bottles around forever?  (I used to)

It's not good over ice either.   

[DannyP]

This is what I started with

[DannyP]

Here is an update. Went to town a couple times by myself and the bike ran great. With that BatWing fairing on it there is a whistle coming from somewhere that starts about 40 mph. My bride says it looks cheep and to replace it with a windshield, . I got a backrest from a hand on the forum and got that on so I could take her for a ride and she loves it. 205/60/16 is a bit to big for two folks of our girth so the tire rubbed on the right side. I will pick up a 195 tommarow.
I am so impressed with this bike. is there a fuel gage available for it anywhere?
I will ride it this season and see what to do with it this winter, Floorboards front and back, lights and the like.

[Willow]

... is there a fuel gage available for it anywhere?
...

A fuel gauge is not really needed.  Carry a spare gas container, run it to reserve, and keep track of how many miles reserve gives you at around 75 mph.  Mine is good for forty-three.  Reserve to empty is always the same amount of fuel.  Even if your fuel mileage on a particular ride is down twenty percent you are still good for about thirty-five miles.  There may be times when your travels will take you somewhere, out west, where fuel stops exceed 35 miles spread.  If you reset your trip meter when you fuel you will know how much you have to go.

[98valk]

Here is an update. Went to town a couple times by myself and the bike ran great. With that BatWing fairing on it there is a whistle coming from somewhere that starts about 40 mph. My bride says it looks cheep and to replace it with a windshield, . I got a backrest from a hand on the forum and got that on so I could take her for a ride and she loves it. 205/60/16 is a bit to big for two folks of our girth so the tire rubbed on the right side. I will pick up a 195 tommarow.
I am so impressed with this bike. is there a fuel gage available for it anywhere?
I will ride it this season and see what to do with it this winter, Floorboards front and back, lights and the like.

u need to do the fender nut mod so tire doesn't rub. I run a 205/65-16 lowers rpms by 200 for better mpg and it doesn't rub.  remember to adjust shocks to level 5 when riding 2 up.

[Jess from VA]

Here is an update. Went to town a couple times by myself and the bike ran great. With that BatWing fairing on it there is a whistle coming from somewhere that starts about 40 mph. My bride says it looks cheep and to replace it with a windshield, . I got a backrest from a hand on the forum and got that on so I could take her for a ride and she loves it. 205/60/16 is a bit to big for two folks of our girth so the tire rubbed on the right side. I will pick up a 195 tommarow.
I am so impressed with this bike. is there a fuel gage available for it anywhere?
I will ride it this season and see what to do with it this winter, Floorboards front and back, lights and the like.

u need to do the fender nut mod so tire doesn't rub. I run a 205/65-16 lowers rpms by 200 for better mpg and it doesn't rub.  remember to adjust shocks to level 5 when riding 2 up.

Here is the old link to the fender washer mod.  http://www.s2s-accessories.com/photo/fndrmod/

I also seem to recall some cut the nut cages off to gain more clearance.

Worth trying before buying another tire.  

[Chrisj CMA]

Here is an update. Went to town a couple times by myself and the bike ran great. With that BatWing fairing on it there is a whistle coming from somewhere that starts about 40 mph. My bride says it looks cheep and to replace it with a windshield, . I got a backrest from a hand on the forum and got that on so I could take her for a ride and she loves it. 205/60/16 is a bit to big for two folks of our girth so the tire rubbed on the right side. I will pick up a 195 tommarow.
I am so impressed with this bike. is there a fuel gage available for it anywhere?
I will ride it this season and see what to do with it this winter, Floorboards front and back, lights and the like.

The sound you describe at the speed indicated seems suspiciously like the normal screams the square cut gears make. I too did not notice it when I first got my standard with no windshield. Once I added the shield I immediately noticed exactly what you describe.

[98valk]

Here is an update. Went to town a couple times by myself and the bike ran great. With that BatWing fairing on it there is a whistle coming from somewhere that starts about 40 mph. My bride says it looks cheep and to replace it with a windshield, . I got a backrest from a hand on the forum and got that on so I could take her for a ride and she loves it. 205/60/16 is a bit to big for two folks of our girth so the tire rubbed on the right side. I will pick up a 195 tommarow.
I am so impressed with this bike. is there a fuel gage available for it anywhere?
I will ride it this season and see what to do with it this winter, Floorboards front and back, lights and the like.

The sound you describe at the speed indicated seems suspiciously like the normal screams the square cut gears make. I too did not notice it when I first got my standard with no windshield. Once I added the shield I immediately noticed exactly what you describe.

In 1987 Honda changed 4th and 5th gears from straight cut to bevel cut for GL1500 engines. These changes were to quiet the highway speed engine noise.

[DannyP]

Well I already ordered another tire. I wasn't comfortable riding on the one that scrubbed, but thanks for the information. I will see how far I can go one a tank. I read somewhere that it was only 110 miles.
Thanks of rthe input everyone.

[Willow]

Well I already ordered another tire. I wasn't comfortable riding on the one that scrubbed, but thanks for the information. I will see how far I can go one a tank. I read somewhere that it was only 110 miles.
Thanks of rthe input everyone.

110 miles is either very poor mileage or a wild assed guess.

My Standard gets 143 to reserve and an additional 43 on reserve.  I usually try to fuel within about 35 miles after I go on reserve.  There are a few places that stations are too far apart for that (out west).  One must be always aware of where one is.

[Jims99]

I hit reserve around 125 miles on my tourer. 90 miles if I’m cruising around 85. My interstate gets a little better mpg, but I don’t get on that as hard, usually the wife’s with me. Lol. On average, 32mpg with tourer and 35mpg with interstate.

[Willow]

I hit reserve around 125 miles on my tourer. 90 miles if I’m cruising around 85. My interstate gets a little better mpg, but I don’t get on that as hard, usually the wife’s with me. Lol. On average, 32mpg with tourer and 35mpg with interstate.

Honestly that sounds reasonable.  Distance from full to reserve depends greatly upon how close to the top of the tank one fills it.  Distance from reserve to empty is always constant.

I fill completely but I also run an aftermarket ICM.