Re: New member '99 poroject bike. UPDATE: SOLD

[slmjim + Z1BEBE]

Our 1st. post intro is here for background:
https://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,127736.0.html

Brief synopsis from the above intro:
   Long-time Kawasaki Z1 restoration hobbyists here.

   This '99 Std. had sat in attached garage 14 yrs. before we got it very, very cheap.  Overall it's in quite decent shape.

   Carb internals undetermined as yet, but looking flaky.  Initial opening of float bowl drain screws produced no fuel.  Hmmm; might be good, might be bad.  PO doesn't remember if he drained them 14 yrs. ago.

   Introduced fresh fuel from our aux tank to check for any leaks in the 'O' rings of the fuel rails.  Fuel immediately leaked from a loose hose at the first 3-way joint just downstream from the petcock that splits feed to each side.  We probably dislodged it when we pulled the tank.  Got that back on courtesy long right-angle needle nose pliers.

   Next feeding revealed fuel running out of one of two hoses that drain next to each other onto the top of the motor between carbs 5 & 6.  These two hoses appear to originate from the uppermost 3-way joints between 3/5 and 4/6.  It's the 3/5 joint that is producing the fuel.

  Our gut sez stuck float(s) and / or float valve(s).  We tapped firmly on all the float bowls with a brass drift without affecting the leak.  When we opened the bowl drain screws we now see fresh fuel, but draining slower than we would have expected.  Likely crud in the bowls.

   It's clear we don't understand these carbs & overall intake system very well, as we would expect the uppermost 3-way joint to be associated with air somehow.  Seems too high on the carb bodies to have fuel in them, but the presence of a drain indicates the possibility was anticipated.  Perusing the hose layout in the FSM and on Partzilla trying to identify the function of the rails the uppermost pair of 3-way joints (or even locating them in the drawings) has been frustrating 'cause we don't know carb rack & hose nomenclature well at all.

  Insight anyone, please?

  At any rate, it's certain the rack has to come out for internal cleaning.  We have decades of experience with Z1 Mikuni slide throttle VM carbs, and a little experience with '90's Keihin CB750 CV carbs.  We have a very good ultrasonic tank & our choice of two varnish-busting solvents to run in it.  Main thing we have to do first is, rearrange our carb bench to accommodate a six carb rack instead of the usual four, and that is both wider & deeper than we're currently set up for.

Thanks for the assistance everyone.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

[slmjim + Z1BEBE]

   As with any noob to a Valkyrie, we're gonna have more questions than contribute of wisdom.  Patience, please.

   Been doing some reading since our above post.

   Looks like an All Balls 26-1629 carb kit is in our future.  Don't see a kit on Red Eye.  Better suggestions?

   While we're at it, looks like an opportune time to do desmog.  Found this link:
https://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/desmog.htm

   Are there any better desmog articles & pics

   Any downsides to desmog re: driveability or reliability?

   Also seeing mentions of desmog "kits". Any recommendations?

   We're gonna be busy with life-gets-in-the-way stuff, so the next progress update will be at least two weeks out.  We'll monitor this thread & respond when appropriate, but hands-on-bike progress will be at a standstill 'till then.

   Thanks for the assistance everyone!

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE
     

[Jims99]

Keep reading threads on this site. Much more knowledge here than on Facebook. Guys here have helped me more than I can count. Sounds like you’re on the right track, there’s also places to get parts they may be cheaper but better than dealers. (Ethanol gas now compared to when these were built)
Rebuild petcock to help reduce hydrolock, I also use kl18-8895 float needles that are an upgrade. Desmog will change nothing except cleaning up the looks and  cutting back on vacuum leaks. (I personally recommend) only other week point is the final drive. Must go through it and regrease the splines every tire change. Since it’s been sitting, definitely flush all fluids, change timing belts, (gates) can’t find number at the moment, tires, calipers will need a good cleaning, a good shot of wd-40 In all the handle bar switches and flip on and off a bunch. Those contacts get corroded and the grease stiffens up.
I’m sure many others will chime in with more to check.
Welcome to the best bike out there. Hope you enjoy it as much as we do.

[slmjim + Z1BEBE]

Fakebuuk is barely an entertainment platform.  The format is pretty useless for Tech stuff.  We have an account only to access a couple of private Kawasaki Z1 groups.

Appreciate the recommendation on the float needles.

One of our '93 CB750 Nighthawks hydrolocked years ago.  Replaced the petcock & all is good.  We've already decided to pull all the plugs on the Valk before we crank it the first time.  Need to look at them anyway.

We're fairly well versed on drive splines.  Our '09 ST1300A, like all ST1300's, requires true high moly content paste each tire change.  We managed to get the good stuff when we had our first ST1300, an '03, before Mama Honda mysteriously discontinued it a few years ago.

We've pretty much decided to desmog.  Reluctant to do so until after we get the carbs done, because making two relatively significant changes at once can lead to mystery symptoms that might have been caused by one procedure or the other, and not knowing which one.

Switchgear will be treated with No-Oxid spray contact cleaner.

The clutch & brake systems still work (surprisingly).  Those will be done before turning a wheel the 1st  time.  It's like we say to new, usually young, owners of vintage bikes who are excited & gung ho to Ride their new, old bike; Before you make it go, make very sure it'll stop.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

[Mooskee]

For fuel to run out of the overflow tubes as you described, the  bowl float needle valve(s) have to be open. Could be because of a stuck float or a bad valve. The valves will be bad now anyway after sitting 14 years. The floats are probably fine, but could be stu k due to the deposits left in the bowl by ethanol fuel and years of neglect.  I get carbs like this from time to time.  The butterfly valves will sometimes even be frozen.

The leaking from the fuel raIl tees between 3/5  and 4/6 are due to the O-rings becomming embrittled with UVlight and chemical exposure. They will likely break when being removed. There is a lot more information  I can give you, but I can't do it right now.  I can tell you the carbs need to come out and be completely disassembled, ultrasonically cleaned and rebuilt. If you want me to do that for you go to www.valkyriecarbsandcustom.com, and check out our rebuild service. I have a test engine and will make the carbs like-new, then balance and tune them on the test engine before sending them back to you.  They will be like new and ready to install and run. (After you fix the rest of the bike)

I am a sponsor here on the VRCC
Dave

[Jims99]

There’s a few carb guys on here, mooskee is one of the good ones. Always has good advice.
Desmog while the carbs are off, much easier and really no way to mess it up.

[slmjim + Z1BEBE]

Sold it to a long-time friend, lifelong motorcycle enthusiast & very competent mechanic.

He retired recently & was looking for something like a project to replace his 107K mi. Harley that was lighter & smoother (him) and quieter (her).

The bike is in good hands.  He may well join here for advice.

Thanks all, for the welcome & advice!

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE