|
Swartzy
|
 |
« on: May 12, 2024, 04:01:01 PM » |
|
Hi gang....I have a belly tank on my 98 Standard. I need to remove and replace my clutch slave cylinder and am going to replace the master at the same time. That R&W belly tank is crammed in there and don't know if I have enough room to remove the kickstand bracket and access the slave cylinder.
If I could remove the entire belly tank (or if I need to) I would but it sounds overly complicated as I'm not certain how the fuel lines, petcock, fuel pump, etc work together, let alone restoring the fuel system back to original. It seems to me, when the belly was installed he did some modification to the original tank, silver soldering something to it.
Without a clutch, I'm dead in the water. The rest of my bike is still awesome but don't know where to turn. Any help is greatly appreciated!
Swartzy
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Foozle
|
|
« Reply #1 on: May 13, 2024, 05:42:34 AM » |
|
If unmodified, the main tank feeds fuel (via gravity) down to the lower tank - where the fuel pump delivers it upward to the carbs.
Yes, for this to occur, a threaded "bung" needs to be installed in the main tank. This necessitates draining the main tank prior to removal, since this outlet is not metered by any valve or petcock.
I replaced the clutch cable on my 1998 without removing the belly tank, but it was very fiddly and time consuming (due to lack of space). I'm not sure you can replace the entire clutch slave without providing yourself some additional access.
FWIW, the belly tank should come off (and go back on) in a fairly straightforward manner (notice I didn't say easily). Obviously, if you choose NOT to reinstall it, you'll need to cap off the outlet bung and (if memory serves) restore the petcock back to its original configuration.
I believe WintrSol and Bigwolf (among others) also run a belly tank - and have some experience with this. Perhaps they can chime in.
Terry
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Swartzy
|
|
« Reply #2 on: May 13, 2024, 07:15:40 AM » |
|
Thank you Terry,
This is of great help as I'm running through the mental gymnastics of repair. Your explanation gives me hope! Fortunately, I live in an "airpark" community with lots of mechanically inclined people (as they build and repair their airplanes) so I'm sure with some extra eyes and hands we can get this done.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
WintrSol
|
|
« Reply #3 on: May 13, 2024, 10:46:38 AM » |
|
If you want it, I have a copy of the tank instructions, which may help. Just send your email address via private message (PM), and I'll send it.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
98 Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT Tourer
Photo of my FIL Jack, in honor of his WWII service
|
|
|
|
Swartzy
|
|
« Reply #4 on: May 13, 2024, 11:36:38 AM » |
|
If you want it, I have a copy of the tank instructions, which may help. Just send your email address via private message (PM), and I'll send it.
THANK YOU!...Am sending! |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
WintrSol
|
|
« Reply #5 on: May 13, 2024, 08:14:16 PM » |
|
On it's way.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
98 Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT Tourer
Photo of my FIL Jack, in honor of his WWII service
|
|
|
|
Swartzy
|
|
« Reply #6 on: May 14, 2024, 09:53:51 PM » |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
WintrSol
|
|
« Reply #7 on: May 15, 2024, 12:29:31 PM » |
|
Just a word of advice - if you do want to remove the belly tank, you can use the fuel pump to drain the main tank into a catch can. Just remove one end of the outlet line (usually accessible at the pump only), and connect a bit of fuel tubing long enough to hold in the can. Then, if the pump is wired properly, it will run with the key on but the run/stop switch in stop, to protect the ignition system. Make sure the petcock is in the reserve position, and hold the bike as close to upright as you can, like on a lift, or a brick under the stand. Then you can unbolt the main tank and lift it enough to get a wrench on the fitting; 7/8", IIRC. Last time, I used rubber wedges, like door stops, to hold it up. Once you have the main tank off, make sure to check the line to the belly tank for a proper clamp on the fitting. Mine didn't, which led to a slow leak, which became a faster leak last fall.
Oh, and have shop towels handy, as there will always be a little left in the main tank.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
98 Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT Tourer
Photo of my FIL Jack, in honor of his WWII service
|
|
|
|
Swartzy
|
|
« Reply #8 on: May 19, 2024, 06:05:04 PM » |
|
Thank you for this great information....I'll be attempting soon....crazy that most shops around here don't want to work on bikes older than the year 2000. Then to top it off being motorcycle season, everybody and their brother needs bike repair..LOL.
You guys are the best!
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
F6Ghostrider VRCC #32501
|
|
« Reply #9 on: June 14, 2024, 06:42:57 AM » |
|
Hey there Swartzy. I also have a belly tank on my 98 Tourer. I recently rebuilt the slave cylinder. I dropped the belly tank. Not too hard. A little tight on space. I use a piece of construction line tied off to to each hose and wire connection. Maybe about ten feet long. As you drop the tank out, carefully feed the line down through the middle of the bike. I learned this the hard way. After your slave cylinder rebuild, as you jack your BT up, carefully pull the lines and work everything back through its original route.
Hope this helps.
Good luck Brother.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
