Issues with my shaft

[CANADIAN-F6C]

Long story short .... some ID!OT neglected their rear end service last year & there were ugly loud expensive noises as a consequence ... full disclosure - I'm the ID!OT

So now after dozens of websites that say they have stock - only to give you a shipping date of next year sometime ... maybe - and e-bay auctions where you're outbid with 3 seconds left in the auction - I'm here with heart in hand, looking to the charity of fellow Valkyrie enthusiasts.

Anyone got one they'd be willing to part with?

[Chrisj CMA]

If you need a drive shaft you also need a pinion cup

[98valk]

rocky mountain

 back-ordered
Expected on 11/05/24
 
        SHAFT, PROPELLER

babbits is saying august which is what rocky mountain first emailed me.

Partzilla is stating Ships in 200 to 210 days

why I started this thread, I have some more info to add soon.

https://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,129122.0.html

a machinist on FB stated he could make a cheap and plentiful used GW 1500 driveshaft into a valkyrie driveshaft.

[CANADIAN-F6C]

Thanks for the comment. Those appear to be more available - being used on everything from the '88 1200 to the '17 GW - even the Rune.

[CANADIAN-F6C]

98 Valk - interesting that you found someone who would make them. I went to 3 guys here in town .... first is a Pro Stock 1/4 mile guy who owns a speed shop (I figured if anyone has had to fix axles & drive shafts - it's Kevin) he looked at it & said "no way" the pumpkin end was too much geometry. Second 2 are both master machinists who own custom work shops - both said no, saying that the splines would be a proprietary geometry (hence no aftermarket ones) & if you try & mate up a more "stock" profile it won't last long in the cup. Both were amazed at the level of hardness as well. Much harder than a typical axle. So cutting down a longer GW shaft isn't an option either.

If your guy can make them & make them well, I'm in.

[98valk]

98 Valk - interesting that you found someone who would make them. I went to 3 guys here in town .... first is a Pro Stock 1/4 mile guy who owns a speed shop (I figured if anyone has had to fix axles & drive shafts - it's Kevin) he looked at it & said "no way" the pumpkin end was too much geometry. Second 2 are both master machinists who own custom work shops - both said no, saying that the splines would be a proprietary geometry (hence no aftermarket ones) & if you try & mate up a more "stock" profile it won't last long in the cup. Both were amazed at the level of hardness as well. Much harder than a typical axle. So cutting down a longer GW shaft isn't an option either.

If your guy can make them & make them well, I'm in.

not my guy. just a conversation on FB valkyrie page with another valkyrie owner, he was asking if the GW1500 shaft fit the valkyrie. He was strictly talking about shortening the u-joint spline end of the shaft and not the spline coupling/cup end.  then he started talking about just shortening the GW shaft by cutting out a section and re-attaching.

the coupling/cup splines are not that hard and why moly grease is required. some engineering papers state splines should be hard enough whereas very little lubrication is needed. however most spline connections/installations are not perfect.

[sandy]

That’s the second drive shaft needed lately.

[da prez]

  I have a useable driveshaft in stock. I have shipped to Canada . The paperwork weighs more than the shaft. I do not have a pinion cup. The shaft will get you by until you get a replacement. PM me.

                                                         da prez

[CANADIAN-F6C]

Thanks to all who chimed in. Through the generosity of a member here, I should have one at my door next week.

I've been away from the Valk world for a while - I'd forgotten that there is a certain pleasantry and family in the conversations. I also own a couple of vintage US pieces from that major name. Their boards are ripe with know-it-alls who are quick to belittle those who seek help. We're not all mechanics or engineers. Some of us ask questions that have obvious answers, to those who have pulled the wrenches before.

Anyway - good to be back. Maybe I'll stir things up & start a "what's the best rear tire" or "best oil" thread

[rug_burn]

   Keep everything lubed and all, but keeping things in perspective:  a new oem driveshaft, pinion cup and seal still cost less than a typical chain for a chain drive bike!   
    Personally, I think driveshafts are more maintenance intensive, but cheaper, if you do everything right.

[gordonv]

Maybe include your location in your profile.

I know we have some items like this in the Lower Mainland. But not too many of use frequent the forum as much as we used to too, so we see posts later than would be liked.

I usually buy items from the US and bring it across the boarder myself. Everything cheaper this way.