Battery going bad, running rich?

[CoreyP]

Between 110 degree heat indexes and hurricane Debby who sat over my house for 3 days, I haven't ridden my bike for a few weeks maybe 3 or 4?

Problem is this, bike wouldn't start, battery dead after a couple of tries, click click click.
I jump started the battery saying it will be fine to my wife and hit the rode for a 45 minute ride to Savannah, GA. Entertained ourselves and back home after maybe 3 hours.  Get on the bike and I was lucky it started. 5+ year old battery so battery is done, simple fix there. Side note my bike is ridden year round with winter being my big months so the battery doesn't sit around not being charged for very long usually. August is my dead of winter month.

The problem that is worrying me is it started to run really rich with a looping idle??? Any chance a dead battery would do that to the bike or do I have a separate problem going on? 

Strangely I had good power but it doesn't sound right.

[Challenger]

I just replaced my 5 yr old battery in my Std. Started fine, road to a friends house. Ten min later it just clicked. Battery showed 12.3 volts until I turned the key on and it drops to 3 volts.
My point for replying is, for the last week or so I have been noticing that restarting while engine is hot it was taking a couple of trys before firing. With new battery it fires instantly hot or cold. Not sure I noticed any idling difference, but deffinately did with starting.

[Jess from VA]

I have kept my two Interstates on Battery Tender Jr's 24 X 7 when not riding (except trips), for years.  They will never cook your battery.

My Yuasa batteries last 9 to 13 years.

They fire up every time, and when warm I only have to just bump the button to fire up.

I usually choke, but in hot weather I really don't need it if I nudge the throttle a little at start up.

The tender shows green when charged, red when charging.  I always look for the green light before I unplug to ride.  When I return and plug in I get either an instant green, or 10-20 seconds of red before green.

My Yuasa batteries are now $85 and the tender is $40.  The tenders pay for themselves.  



I also have one of these waterproof ammeters mounted on both inside fairings, which tells you you're correctly charging while underway.

$8


https://www.amazon.com/MICTUNING-Digital-Voltmeter-Waterproof-Motorcycle/dp/B078M2RCDT/ref=sr_1_7?crid=11RO0HDB8FK8O&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.IObC7C2x3lq-eA_2bpAlgoRObigFgZSMYNc3nzoJkvAD2QzqYtTEOMrEeKtRrY9tmtqGlt3ftDJ_YxfOeF8W02zEyeuLmB_UdZV-aX3uNJ5OJaKxYziBiZn2WB5XzhmPs4aPhZ4V9aTeoEbd8pAJ3FuFU3wGaT_3I0M7b1n5l1ZguZk2bps1OURuhepNgwuQGbhFeE454Ed2stBRZKZDHflQKLenl20uGmrFdc_4Kw0.RJ8f4YgKFAxz9nLsQoT70-8YCegXEYB4sNhxzQS95VY&dib_tag=se&keywords=small+round+ammeter+for+motorcycle&qid=1723949517&sprefix=small+round+ammeter+for+motorccyle%2Caps%2C192&sr=8-7

[WintrSol]

While it is possible the alternator can't keep the Voltage up with a failing battery, and, as a result, the ignition is uneven, I think it's more likely you have moisture in the fuel. Seafoam, or a similar additive to remove water from fuel, would be my suggestion for that.

[98valk]

higher temps equals thinner air, equals less oxygen, equals a richer running carburetor engine.

an engine jetted at 70F for a good air/fuel ratio is good for +/- 25 degrees F from that 70F.

your idle mixture screws should be adjusted so the end of the spark plugs are peppered with carbon as seen as rich idle area in example #2.

https://fboignition.com/articles/sparkplugreading

[da prez]

   Yes , the battery could be bad. Back on my soap box. Remove and clean all battery connections . I use silicone  dia-electric  on the connections. Remove the battery and put on a charger while doing the ground cables.  If there is oxidation on the connections , it will only get worse until failure. My first battery lasted 13 years. I recently installed a lithium battery (purchased the charger at the same time).  Dirty connections cause high resistance ,high resistance causes heat , heat causes expansion, expansion causes stretching. Stretching becomes loose when cooled.  If there is a white powder noticed , it is oxidation (no - not cocaine).  Always go back to basics.
  When installing the battery cables , the cable should go to the post , add on connections are stacked under the bolt. ( hope this makes sense.)
                                                              da prez

[98valk]

   Yes , the battery could be bad. Back on my soap box. Remove and clean all battery connections . I use silicone  dia-electric  on the connections. Remove the battery and put on a charger while doing the ground cables.  If there is oxidation on the connections , it will only get worse until failure. My first battery lasted 13 years. I recently installed a lithium battery (purchased the charger at the same time).  Dirty connections cause high resistance ,high resistance causes heat , heat causes expansion, expansion causes stretching. Stretching becomes loose when cooled.  If there is a white powder noticed , it is oxidation (no - not cocaine).  Always go back to basics.
  When installing the battery cables , the cable should go to the post , add on connections are stacked under the bolt. ( hope this makes sense.)
                                                              da prez

"silicone  dia-electric"  is an insulator and stops electrical transmission.

best to use and what I use, ordinary grease on terminals which isn't an electrical insulator.

[RonA]

Last year I noticed it took a couple of seconds for my bike to catch fire when it was cold, it had always fired instantly. Figured I was not setting the "choke" just right. Then it wouldn't fire at all, turned over fine, just no fire. A jump start pack had it fire up instantly. The battery was 7 years old. I remember reading somewhere that Valkyrie wants full voltage to energize the ignition. A new battery solved the problem.  

[Challenger]

I have kept my two Interstates on Battery Tender Jr's 24 X 7 when not riding (except trips), for years.  They will never cook your battery.

My Yuasa batteries last 9

The tender shows green when charged, red when charging.  I always look for the green light before I unplug to ride.  When I return and plug in I get either an instant green, or 10-20 seconds of red before green.

My Yuasa batteries are now $85 and the tender is $40.  The tenders pay for themselves.  


My Yuasa battery has been on a tender the entire 5 years it was in the bike when sitting. It died like you flipped a switch. The one in the I/S is 11 years old and still going. $hit happens

[Jess from VA]

My Yuasa battery has been on a tender the entire 5 years it was in the bike when sitting. It died like you flipped a switch. The one in the I/S is 11 years old and still going. $hit happens

Absolutely stuff does happen, esp with batteries.

And (it may be the old man talking here) but it seems to me quality is diminishing in all manner of things across the board, in the name of cost and manpower cutting. 

[98valk]

Last year I noticed it took a couple of seconds for my bike to catch fire when it was cold, it had always fired instantly. Figured I was not setting the "choke" just right. Then it wouldn't fire at all, turned over fine, just no fire. A jump start pack had it fire up instantly. The battery was 7 years old. I remember reading somewhere that Valkyrie wants full voltage to energize the ignition. A new battery solved the problem.  

ICM needs a minimum of 10.5 volts to start.  Mine started with 10 volts a few times and if it didn't start nice back fire out the exhaust.

[WintrSol]

When applying any kind of grease to an electrical connection, I make the connection, then cover with grease to keep out water and air.

[Mooskee]

When applying any kind of grease to an electrical connection, I make the connection, then cover with grease to keep out water and air.

I agree when protecting from moisture/air intrusion. I also use Stabilant 22A on any electrical connection I build or disassemble. It is amazing stuff. Can't use it on any contact that arcs however.

[CoreyP]

Starting problem solved. Tested the old battery before I went and bought a new one. Tested at 12.4 volts. When cranking it drop off to 9.8 and then continued down. Battery shot for sure. New battery started  the bike right up, in fact I forgot what a strong battery sounded like starting the bike. LOL. Guess it has been going bad for a while without me noticing. I don't use a battery tender because usually I don't go more than a few days without riding the bike. August is the month I ride the least, just too hot and humid.

Bike is sounding right again so looks like the dead battery was effecting how the engine runs which surprises me? I'm going to run it a couple more times, pull the plugs to see what's up if anything. 

The bike had it's best dyno run at 93.4 degree and 29 pressure, in Nashville Tenn. so around 420 ft elevation. I'm at around sea level most of the time but I don't think 420 feet of elevation would do much to the tune. Also 93 is about right for my summer time temps. Only difference is the humidity where I'm at. Right now at 9:30 PM it's 76% humidity and that is about the average for me. I don't think this bike is far out of tune for summer season.

[WintrSol]

Since we have a true alternator, the magnets are powered by the battery Voltage (unlike the PM generators of most bikes), so, if the battery is holding that low, the alternator won't power the system as well. Too late now, but I would have tested the Voltage at idle, just to see if that is what was going on.