iulian
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« on: August 28, 2024, 08:00:16 PM » |
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Please help with some orientation on how to replace the 3 orings in the rear wheel. if I can get the Honda part # will be greatly appreciated! Thanks.
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Challenger
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« Reply #1 on: August 29, 2024, 12:48:41 AM » |
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98valk
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« Reply #4 on: August 29, 2024, 01:22:25 PM » |
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he must be out of stock. email him, he's a member on here
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed 1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other." John Adams 10/11/1798
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mello dude
Member
    
Posts: 944
Half genius, half dumazz whackjob foole
Dayton Ohio
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« Reply #5 on: August 29, 2024, 08:06:22 PM » |
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* There's someone in my head, but it's not me....... * Mr. Murphy was an optimist.... * There's a very fine line between Insanity and Genius..... * My get up and go, must have got up and went.....
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F6Dave
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« Reply #6 on: August 31, 2024, 09:18:14 AM » |
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Below is a photo of my Tourer's wheel splines and pinion at 175,000 miles. I took this at the last tire change when the bike was 22 years old -- old enough to drink and buy firearms! The wheel splines are like new and the pinion shows minimal wear. Everything is original, including the O-rings. When the bike was new I used general purpose grease (from a can I bought in the 1970s) on the wheel splines. When that ran out I switched to wheel bearing grease, which works great because it's so sticky and stays where you put it. That's also helpful for keeping that plastic spacer in place. I never touched the pinion until after 50,000 miles. Since then I've followed the advice of a good Honda shop to pack the cup full of grease at every tire change. When I asked what kind they said 'nothing special, just grease'. I just wanted to share methods that are simple yet have been very effective. 
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iulian
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« Reply #7 on: September 04, 2024, 03:11:29 PM » |
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Thank you very much, is such a common sense approach, we are losing the basics these days. Keep on riding this wonderful bike, Valkyrie 1500!
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98valk
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« Reply #8 on: September 04, 2024, 04:12:43 PM » |
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Below is a photo of my Tourer's wheel splines and pinion at 175,000 miles. I took this at the last tire change when the bike was 22 years old -- old enough to drink and buy firearms! The wheel splines are like new and the pinion shows minimal wear. Everything is original, including the O-rings. When the bike was new I used general purpose grease (from a can I bought in the 1970s) on the wheel splines. When that ran out I switched to wheel bearing grease, which works great because it's so sticky and stays where you put it. That's also helpful for keeping that plastic spacer in place. I never touched the pinion until after 50,000 miles. Since then I've followed the advice of a good Honda shop to pack the cup full of grease at every tire change. When I asked what kind they said 'nothing special, just grease'. I just wanted to share methods that are simple yet have been very effective.  how many miles were u re-greasing the wheel splines? how did the pinion splines last 50k miles with zero grease? that is unbelievable compared to what others have stated for wear problems with grease, including myself.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed 1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other." John Adams 10/11/1798
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F6Dave
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« Reply #9 on: September 05, 2024, 06:55:34 AM » |
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Below is a photo of my Tourer's wheel splines and pinion at 175,000 miles. I took this at the last tire change when the bike was 22 years old -- old enough to drink and buy firearms! The wheel splines are like new and the pinion shows minimal wear. Everything is original, including the O-rings. When the bike was new I used general purpose grease (from a can I bought in the 1970s) on the wheel splines. When that ran out I switched to wheel bearing grease, which works great because it's so sticky and stays where you put it. That's also helpful for keeping that plastic spacer in place. I never touched the pinion until after 50,000 miles. Since then I've followed the advice of a good Honda shop to pack the cup full of grease at every tire change. When I asked what kind they said 'nothing special, just grease'. I just wanted to share methods that are simple yet have been very effective.  how many miles were u re-greasing the wheel splines? how did the pinion splines last 50k miles with zero grease? that is unbelievable compared to what others have stated for wear problems with grease, including myself. Here’s the chronology: In the summer of 2000, at about 38,000 miles, I pulled the final drive and driveshaft. I’d recently replaced the tire and didn’t want to, but had read several scary warnings about the need to lube those ‘splines’. The only splines I saw were at the front (U-joint) since the driveshaft stayed firmly in final drive, so I lubed those with moly paste and put it all back together. Over the next few months I did more research and talked with the service manager at Aurora Honda, where he showed me how to pull the driveshaft out of the pinion cup, and how they filled the cup with as much grease as possible. In early 2001 at just over 50,000 miles I pulled the driveshaft out of the final drive for the first time. It was in great shape and lubed with plenty of gear oil. I remember that because a bit had leaked past the driveshaft seal, which might be due to me pulling the shaft the previous summer. That supports my theory that we often do more damage by over-maintaining these parts. I cleaned it up and filled the cup with grease like I learned from the service manager. For the next few years I performed this maintenance at every other tire change, then started doing it every time. The pictures in my post are proof that this maintenance has worked very well for me. However, my bike clearly needed no maintenance at 50,000 miles and surely could have gone many more miles. This is supported by a post Chris made in another thread about the final drive in a VTX he recently serviced. For those first 50,000 miles my tire changes took less time. Since I didn’t touch those 4 FD nuts everything stayed in alignment, and the pinion was just fine.
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98valk
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« Reply #10 on: September 05, 2024, 08:53:55 AM » |
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Below is a photo of my Tourer's wheel splines and pinion at 175,000 miles. I took this at the last tire change when the bike was 22 years old -- old enough to drink and buy firearms! The wheel splines are like new and the pinion shows minimal wear. Everything is original, including the O-rings. When the bike was new I used general purpose grease (from a can I bought in the 1970s) on the wheel splines. When that ran out I switched to wheel bearing grease, which works great because it's so sticky and stays where you put it. That's also helpful for keeping that plastic spacer in place. I never touched the pinion until after 50,000 miles. Since then I've followed the advice of a good Honda shop to pack the cup full of grease at every tire change. When I asked what kind they said 'nothing special, just grease'. I just wanted to share methods that are simple yet have been very effective.  how many miles were u re-greasing the wheel splines? how did the pinion splines last 50k miles with zero grease? that is unbelievable compared to what others have stated for wear problems with grease, including myself. Here’s the chronology: In the summer of 2000, at about 38,000 miles, I pulled the final drive and driveshaft. I’d recently replaced the tire and didn’t want to, but had read several scary warnings about the need to lube those ‘splines’. The only splines I saw were at the front (U-joint) since the driveshaft stayed firmly in final drive, so I lubed those with moly paste and put it all back together. Over the next few months I did more research and talked with the service manager at Aurora Honda, where he showed me how to pull the driveshaft out of the pinion cup, and how they filled the cup with as much grease as possible. In early 2001 at just over 50,000 miles I pulled the driveshaft out of the final drive for the first time. It was in great shape and lubed with plenty of gear oil. I remember that because a bit had leaked past the driveshaft seal, which might be due to me pulling the shaft the previous summer. That supports my theory that we often do more damage by over-maintaining these parts. I cleaned it up and filled the cup with grease like I learned from the service manager. For the next few years I performed this maintenance at every other tire change, then started doing it every time. The pictures in my post are proof that this maintenance has worked very well for me. However, my bike clearly needed no maintenance at 50,000 miles and surely could have gone many more miles. This is supported by a post Chris made in another thread about the final drive in a VTX he recently serviced. For those first 50,000 miles my tire changes took less time. Since I didn’t touch those 4 FD nuts everything stayed in alignment, and the pinion was just fine. have u ever replaced the final drive gear oil? now u have me thinking back since I'm the original owner of my '98 that I bought as a left over in '00 about $100 over dealer cost. as a new vehicle I changed the engine oil at 200 miles and then the engine and final drive oil at 500 miles and I remember the gear oil was dark like it had moly in it, others have posted the darkness also over the yrs and was really overfilled like it was laying down on the bench when it was filled. maybe the tech manual is wrong about draining and filling the final drive? maybe it is suppose to be bench filled so the shaft splines get lubed with gear oil? per the tech articles I posted oil lubrication is the preferred lubrication method for splines since it removes any minute metal wear particles from the spline surfaces which is the major cause of spline shaft wear.
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« Last Edit: September 05, 2024, 09:05:05 AM by 98valk »
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed 1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other." John Adams 10/11/1798
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F6Dave
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« Reply #11 on: September 05, 2024, 03:19:54 PM » |
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have u ever replaced the final drive gear oil?
now u have me thinking back since I'm the original owner of my '98 that I bought as a left over in '00 about $100 over dealer cost. as a new vehicle I changed the engine oil at 200 miles and then the engine and final drive oil at 500 miles and I remember the gear oil was dark like it had moly in it, others have posted the darkness also over the yrs and was really overfilled like it was laying down on the bench when it was filled.
maybe the tech manual is wrong about draining and filling the final drive? maybe it is suppose to be bench filled so the shaft splines get lubed with gear oil? per the tech articles I posted oil lubrication is the preferred lubrication method for splines since it removes any minute metal wear particles from the spline surfaces which is the major cause of spline shaft wear.
Yes, I change the final drive oil whenever I change a tire. It's so easy with the wheel off, and I always like to see what the magnetic plug has caught. Regarding that dark FD oil when the bike was new, that subject came up several times on the F6B board. According to more than one owner the original fill included some kind of additive that would help lap in the gears, which made the color very dark. I forget what the stuff was but might run a search later. And as I remember, Honda recommended leaving that original fill in for a longer interval than normal. There were also complaints that several F6Bs came with the final drive under-filled. After reading that I checked my 2016 right after I bought it, and sure enough, it was a bit low so I topped it up.
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