Aligning/lifting rear wheel to install axle

[Beer van Huet]

Hello bros,

When reinstalling the rear wheel after maintenance, I am having more and more trouble lifting the wheel properly to insert the axle.
I used to do this by lowering the center liftstand and lift and jutter the wheel with one hand and installing the axle with the other.
Now that I am getting old&bold it costs me more strength.
Perhaps this has been asked many times before but there must be a simple way with a tool or selfmade lever to jack the rear wheel to the exact height so it lines up with the holes in the frame.
Recommendations or tips are highly appreciated.

[h13man]

I use a adjustable turn buckle mounted to the shock mounts on the "driver side" then remove/replace the pumkin' side. Also having the bike high enough to be able to use a small floor jack under the tire is another way to assist. I use a piece of 12 gauge solid core household wiring removed from the sheathing as an assist in a lot of mechanical work that requires hanging parts out of the way especially on auto brake repair.

[Chrisj CMA]

Use any small Jack to lift the wheel. But, be sure to remove anything supporting the wheel once the axle is through so the wheel is free when you torque the axle nut

[mello dude]

I have since figured out to set the ATV motorcycle jack under the engine at a height to allow a
smaller jack on low to set the wheel on.. .
Example
https://www.amazon.com/OrionMotorTech-Dilated-Scissor-Adventure-Motorcycle/dp/B01M0AB7MJ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2JD3MXZ5JOCWK&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.4MJxVix9detCdZ8KKVwjd3c-3JhgyqHH8enbKfd7gLYDBXxFIX5pplymxVkr2JPjfYFFaGn1iyZcH_tI2PTJJSGDOp1BhwppneM1E5aKQxq6ZUcqRt6VgFg8N4_f0NL9mokhK4G7Jt4krABUXM3GEbMifZDUG7tBFMfdgo9wYjK6TWKM_NPV-z5z4OkZ9BhkGdoiOGQF6bJMaepyw6z8cf2G1vtjdvzXduXfWwvskKil2f4NX0osKHZUVrJEsBwUxk53rdzMzge3fXebssmVeGVotZy-DcVCF109wrqbA8g.Ecep9qVi8A4qXEWVjQ9cHXehtSu1QSDAG5wp5LSIs4A&dib_tag=se&keywords=motorcycle%2Bscissor%2Bjack%2Blift%2Bwith%2Bwide%2Bdeck&qid=1734063793&sprefix=motorcycle%2Bscissor%2Bjack%2Caps%2C163&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

So with the jack all the way down, with the wheel sitting on it, raise it to be in line with the axle locations on the swingarm as best you can. Its easy with the jack using small movements. You will have to balance the wheel some to get it into place.

Then slip the axle through on the right side. Now using a spare axle, set it through the left side.
(Honda axles are all the same diameter, my spare one is a front VTR1000)
Looks like...


Now since the axles set good alignment, you can tap the Valk axle all the way thought to the brake side. and then push the wheel solid to the right side and mate up the gearing. Use the jack under the wheel to maintain alignment and and spacers and brake plate and caliper... Torque up all nuts per spec.

Beats trying to muscle the wheel into place....Good luck

[Chrisj CMA]

Use the jack under the wheel to maintain alignment and and spacers and brake plate and caliper... Torque up all nuts per spec.

I still say. Remove that jack from under the wheel before torquing the axle. Maybe you do but just didn’t write that specifically.

[mello dude]

Use the jack under the wheel to maintain alignment and and spacers and brake plate and caliper... Torque up all nuts per spec.

I still say. Remove that jack from under the wheel before torquing the axle. Maybe you do but just didn’t write that specifically.

You got it, thanks for that...

[Peteg]

I'm a little 72 year old without much strength. I use an approach similar to  mellow due. Jack the bike up really high and stable supported by four jack stands, 2 under the crash bar and 2 big 6 ton stands in the back holding the bike by the 2 rear foot peg mounts, u-bolted around a 1" square tube bar that spans between the two big jack stands. Once I get the bike up using  a motorcycle lift and 2500 lb travel trailer stabilizer jack, I move the motorcycle jack to the rear wheel to assist in positioning. As Chris indicates I always remove the lift prior to torqueing the axle, although using the motorcycle lift you may not even need to loosen the pumpkin and worry about alignment for axle torque and bearing pinch up. As long as my axle moves in and out freely on my VTX 1300 I don't touch the 4 pumpkin bolts.  

Pretty much for the Valkyrie I just follow Chris's power point and take the pumpkin loose and service it due to the clearance issues for gear oil fill and to inspect the pinion spline. Another benefit for me in removing the pumpkin is pushing in the final redeye o ring. On my bike with the double row left side bearing mod I install the short spacer last and use pumpkin misalignment to set the oring. So with the caliper mounting bracket roughly aligned to accept the axle, wheel hung, splines engaged and the axle in but not extending out of the wheel, I push the top of the wheel in and let the bottom out rotating the loose pumpkin. Then I wedge the 5/8" long modified spacer in from the top and work it down into position using wheel leverage to make the final red eye oring. Obviously this only works if you've done the left side double row bearing mod. I've only done the rear wheel on my Valk twice. I feel like it's gone well, but then ignorance is bliss!

[Valker]

Only time I've had a final drive spline set wear out was 5,000 miles after I had a dealership replace the rear tire. When I asked about the alignment process they did, I was told they don't pull or even loosen the final drive pumpkin.
I've done it ever since.

[John Schmidt]

An old military adage; you want to find the easiest way to do something, give the job to the laziest guy in the outfit.  

That said, when I used to sevice the rear end on my Tourer, I never needed to jack it up more than 2-3" off the floor. Before lifting the wheel off the floor be sure to loosen the axle nut. Since it's a good time to do major cleaning in hard to reach areas, I always removed the saddlebags and their mount, then the back half of the rear fender. Once jacked up so the wheel is a couple inches off the floor, I put a small floor jack(one of those long flat type) under the swingarm to support it and remove the shocks at the bottom, often having to loosen the top bolt as well. I then get out my special hi-tech wheel/tire lifter...consisting of a 4" piece of 4x2 and about 30" piece of 4x1. Shove the 1x4 under the tire and the 2x4 under the 1x4, press down and put your knee on it whilst you remove the axle. You can now slide the wheel to the left, remove the 1x4 and roll said wheel out. No lifting needed. All the above usually took less than 30 minutes, the time often depending on neighborly kibitzing since the garage door was open most times. Neighbors needed conversation and dogs needed ear scratching and belly rubs and every poosh in the 'hood knew where to get both.

Once all service is completed, you basically reverse the process. Just roll the wheel in place and insert the lifting device(1x4 and 2x4), Lift the wheel with the device and insert the axle through to the left frame, sans the spacer at this point. You're now perfectly aligned to slide the wheel into the final drive. Once done, pull the axle back just enough to allow insertion of the spacer, then complete fastening everything down. This entire method I use involves no lifting of anything heavier than a saddlebag, or a cold drink. On a couple Standards I worked on I did a complete bearing replacement with appropriate new o-rings and thrust washer in under and hour since I didn't have to mess with saddlebags. I figured if the owner wanted it cleaner, it was on him. Again...no lifting and the rear wheel was never more the 2-3" off the floor. An I/S makes it a bit more involved due to the trunk and rear fender access, but still have done it much the same way.

[Beer van Huet]

Thanks everyone for your responses and input.