Traxxion Dynamics suspension on my Valk

[Valker]

After 26 years and a quarter million miles I had my forks completely gutted and rebuilt with their cartridges and added a set of YSS shocks. I just got the bike back together and took it for a 35 mile test ride over very familiar roads. Tremendous difference in the ride quality and handling. Very expensive, but well worth it to me. It's like a new bike. It's the best addition I've done.

[mello dude]

Thumbs up for Traxxion Dynamics  
Jeez the forum needs a like button.

[98valk]

"Tremendous difference in the ride quality and handling."

so what does this mean exactly?  or does it just let you ride a 750lb motorcycle faster than before?

I run progressive springs played with fork fluid type, weight and level and installed I/S shocks on my std with I/S tank, triple clamps and saddle bags.

reducing the trail number via the I/S triple clamps, smaller 130/90-17 and taller C/T 205/65-16 great enhanced the responsiveness, of the bike. reducing the trail number makes the biggest difference.

[Valker]

I tried a lot of those same things except for the Interstate triple clamps. Yes, it is much more stable in corners, yes, I can ride them faster. The ride thing feels like the sharp edges on bumps have now been rounded off. It rode like an old one ton pickup to me, now it feels more like a newer F-150 King Ranch. I also own some ST1300s which have always ridden smoother and handled better than the Valks. The new suspension makes the Valk handle as well as or better than the ST and almost equals the ride quality.

[98valk]

I tried a lot of those same things except for the Interstate triple clamps. Yes, it is much more stable in corners, yes, I can ride them faster. The ride thing feels like the sharp edges on bumps have now been rounded off. It rode like an old one ton pickup to me, now it feels more like a newer F-150 King Ranch. I also own some ST1300s which have always ridden smoother and handled better than the Valks. The new suspension makes the Valk handle as well as or better than the ST and almost equals the ride quality.

"The ride thing feels like the sharp edges on bumps have now been rounded off."

yep using 7.5 wt fork oil did that for me.

[Valker]

I tried a lot of those same things except for the Interstate triple clamps. Yes, it is much more stable in corners, yes, I can ride them faster. The ride thing feels like the sharp edges on bumps have now been rounded off. It rode like an old one ton pickup to me, now it feels more like a newer F-150 King Ranch. I also own some ST1300s which have always ridden smoother and handled better than the Valks. The new suspension makes the Valk handle as well as or better than the ST and almost equals the ride quality.

"The ride thing feels like the sharp edges on bumps have now been rounded off."

yep using 7.5 wt fork oil did that for me.

Tried that.

[Pluggy]

Thanks for posting, Valker.  Looks like something I should have installed 15 years ago. Expensive?  Not if it does the job. 

Expensive = Motorcycle ornaments and diddly items that don't do anything.

[98valk]

is that an I/S or std/tourer?

[Valker]

Mine is a 98 Tourer.

[Disco]

reducing the trail number via the I/S triple clamps, smaller 130/90-17 and taller C/T 205/65-16 great enhanced the responsiveness, of the bike. reducing the trail number makes the biggest difference.

I've been around a while and have never heard that there are differences between the IS triple clamps and those of the Standard and Tourer.  They appear to have different part numbers, but Grok says the rake and trail are the same.  What am I missing?  TIA

[98valk]

reducing the trail number via the I/S triple clamps, smaller 130/90-17 and taller C/T 205/65-16 great enhanced the responsiveness, of the bike. reducing the trail number makes the biggest difference.

I've been around a while and have never heard that there are differences between the IS triple clamps and those of the Standard and Tourer.  They appear to have different part numbers, but Grok says the rake and trail are the same.  What am I missing?  TIA

yes rake and trail are the same.  the I/S clamp has 1/32 more offset than the std/tourer clamps. So then Honda changed the fork stem rake of the I/S to make the trail the same. All due to the fairing weight on the I/S.   Service manual does list the different numbers btwn both

[Peteg]

Valker, have you loaded her up yet for touring? If not I think you'll be smiling even more when you do. I only have the YSS shocks on the rear. My bike only has 55,000 and I'm still happy with the front. I'm sure I don't ride as aggressively as you either. The springs are really stiff progessives. I think they're 45-60 anyway it's stamped on the side. I believe the conversion is something like 250 / 350 (I have the exact numbers in a file if you care) while an interstate spring is 140 / 200. The available preload adjustment for load sag on a 5 step interstate shock is less than 5/8" and that's assuming level 1 unloaded sag is good for you. Your rear shocks probably came setup with about a 1/4" of preload over unloaded length. Easy to check if you care. Jack her up and back off the adjusting collar until the spring is loose - 4 turns = 1/4". So you could probably add an 1 1/8" more preload for 2 up heavy load riding. Bring your spare bearings and tools LOL. If the load is tight and you dial in the rebound damping to kill the spring bounce I think you'll find she handles almost like the loads not there. Be careful if you ever really add 1 1/8" of additional preload as you have infinite adjustment and you don't want to add so much preload that the spring coil bottoms before the bump stop. I found mine continued to get better for about 2,000 miles. I have lower back issues and found for the first 2,000 miles I needed to pretty much back off those initial 4 turns. Once things loosened up I probably put 3 turns back. I dial the rebound damping for comfort - I back it off as far as I can and turn it back up if there's bouncing on the bumps. I find the rebound follows preload - so if you really tighten down the springs for load you will need lots of rebound damping to stop the stiff springs from catapulting you after the bump. I carry a pair of the rubber coated knit work gloves with my shock tools. If you keep the threads lubricated you'll probably be able to grab the adjustment collar and spring with both hands  and make your preload adjustments without the bar. Sometimes the rebound will turn so always verify and adjust rebound after preload.  I typically adjust the preload in my shop with a jack under the bike before a trip. If she begins to bounce or wander in the curves with all the weight I just add a few more clicks of rebound damping and the world is good.

Have fun, ride safe!