Final drive alighment

[TrapperAH1G]

Need some input.  Doing a service on my grandson's bike, 98 Standard.  Guess I've been spoiled by mine because it never seemed really difficult before.  Started reassembly this morning and spent hours trying to get the shaft to mate with U joint.  Could see the u joint was at bottom of swingarm and kept trying to center the coupling and work the shaft in.....no luck.  Then I used a small wood dowel to reach in and raise the coupling, while sliding a piece of flat 1" aluminum trim under it.  Pulled the dowel out and inserted just the shaft.....slid in perfectly!  Removed the flat trim piece and then installed the drum onto the driveshaft.  All fit together nicely, hand tightened four bolts.

Then got to thinking:  "Is the final drive truly all the way on the drive shaft?  Is the oil seal seated correctly?"  No way to tell without taking it apart, but wanted your thoughts.

Thanks

[98valk]

tighten axle first, 4 bolts are the last thing u tighten/torque

[TrapperAH1G]

Thanks.  Got that firmly fixed in my head!

What I did was install the driveshaft into the u joint, then installed the pumpkin on the driveshaft.  It appeared to mate up and seat as it should, but I'm not sure.

In the morning, I'm going to pull the pumpkin again, see if the driveshaft is seated.  If so, think I'll do the install several times to ensure the shaft seats in the pumpkin as it should.....or doesn't.

Will report back tomorrow.

[Pluggy]

Could see the u joint was at bottom of swingarm and kept trying to center the coupling and work the shaft in.....no luck.  

Thanks

Had the same early experience.  Looking in with a small flashlight, the U-joint was positioned so the driveshaft would not mate. The service manuals only show those items mating easily.  In the garage, I found an inch diameter wooden dowel and carved one end into a cone.  With the transmission in neutral, I turned the U-joint with the dowel.  It positioned the splines so the driveshaft slid right in.  

My latest version of this is made from an old barbeque tool.  It retains the wooden handle from its BBQ days.

[Chrisj CMA]

Thanks.  Got that firmly fixed in my head!

What I did was install the driveshaft into the u joint, then installed the pumpkin on the driveshaft.  It appeared to mate up and seat as it should, but I'm not sure.

In the morning, I'm going to pull the pumpkin again, see if the driveshaft is seated.  If so, think I'll do the install several times to ensure the shaft seats in the pumpkin as it should.....or doesn't.

Will report back tomorrow.

Insert the drive shaft into the pinion cup. Pullback gently to insure the snap ring is engaged. Then with the swing arm level sit directly behind the opening of the swingarm and guide the drive shaft down the tube. When it stops if it’s not in all the way, give a few good healthy shakes up and down while applying gentle force into the swingarm and it will pop right in.

[F6Dave]

While inserting the driveshaft into the swingarm tube, it often helps to rotate the shaft by grabbing the drive splines and turning them.

[0leman]

After inserting the driveshaft  into the U-Join a number of times, I have come to the conclusion that it is a crap shoot.   I have had it slip in easy one time and had it cause me to stop doing it, walk away for a few minutes ( and say some choice words).  Yes, the slight movement/wiggle does seem to help.  Also have the swing arm level or slightly raised helps.   

[HayHauler]

On my last tire change last year and final drive inspection, I replaced the u-joint.  I usually don't have any issues stabbing the drive shaft into the joint, but this time it wouldn't go, no matter what I tried.
So, I removed the new u-joint and upon inspection, the heat treat of the splines on the shaft side of the joint was sub-par.  The leading edge of the spline teeth were damaged and would not go in, even with both shaft and joint off of the bike.
Luckily, I have 3 new joints, so I opened another new one and it slid right in on the first try.

I marked that u-joint "BAD" and put it on the shelf.  I could see the heat treat line around the shaft end of the joint was not as substantial as the others, even the one I was replacing.  I kept the one I replaced for a good spare.

I don't think this is your issue, but I am just putting it out there for others to learn from.

Hay 
Jimmyt

[TrapperAH1G]

Took the pumpkin off this morning, shaft was seated in as it should be.  Had to "jerk" it out as normally do.  Tried 3 more times using the dowel and aluminum trim, each time it was the same result.

However, now I can't get the wheel to install!  The pumpkin is seated flush on the swing arm, nuts finger tight.  Just can't get the splines to mesh.  Driving me to recall that there are some days when my profanity vocabulary just isn't quite sufficient!

[Timbo1]

Took the pumpkin off this morning, shaft was seated in as it should be.  Had to "jerk" it out as normally do.  Tried 3 more times using the dowel and aluminum trim, each time it was the same result.

However, now I can't get the wheel to install!  The pumpkin is seated flush on the swing arm, nuts finger tight.  Just can't get the splines to mesh.  Driving me to recall that there are some days when my profanity vocabulary just isn't quite sufficient!

I've had luck by installing the axle without the caliper bracket & spacer.  Then from the right side with bike in gear I can pull the wheel with slight rotation into place.  Once the wheel seats I pull the axle back out enough to get the spacer and caliper bracket into place then slide the axle back through.

[John Schmidt]

I've always inserted the driveshaft and pumpkin as a unit and as suggested I have the swingarm high and level. With that I seldom have issues inserting the shaft into the u-joint. As for mounting the wheel, I also use the method of rolling the wheel into place and lifting it enough to insert the axle all the way through without the spacer. That lets you slide the wheel straight into the pumpkin without having to lift and struggle lining up the splines. As I've mentioned in the past, I remove the bags and mounting hardware plus the back half of the rear fender(Tourer). My bags were mounted with the bag-drop kit so no alignment issues with the fender...which I don't unplug, just lay it on top of the front half. By doing it that was with everything removed, it gives you a chance to clean real good once every 10k miles or so. Also, by using a scissor jack under the swing arm you only need to lift the rear wheel 2-3" off the floor, making removal/reinstall easy... the wheel just rolls out and back in and you have two hands free. I do use a lift under the motor and jack stands under the crash bars for stability. After my first rear tire change back about 2003 with the bike jacked nearly 2' off the floor and feeling very unsteady, I vowed to find a faster and safer way with the bike only a couple inches off the floor and have used it ever since while I still had that bike.

[TrapperAH1G]

Thanks for all the input.  Got everything done today. 

In comparing the o rings I removed with the new ones, found the new ones were much "plumper".  Got the wheel up and aligned, almost in, then put a rachet strap around the hub and pumpkin.  Tightened to hold all together, then mounted spacer and caliper and the axle nut.  Put the wheel on the ground, tightend the axle then the four drive nuts.  Finished install and test ride went fine.

[Chrisj CMA]

You should not have put the wheel to the ground before tightening the axle and four nuts. I would not ride the bike that way. Good possibility the final drive is not aligned properly