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Hotrodwing
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« on: February 25, 2010, 10:47:06 AM » |
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Removed my 97 standards wheel and found the splines rusted. I also found that the axel collar part #7 is flared on the end that sits against the bearing. Is this normal or should it be the same dia all the way across? I also found the smaller bearing needs to be replaced. I have the 2 O rings for replacement part's #20 and #21. My question is where does #20 go? I only see where #21 on the flange set goes. Thanks in advance  |
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X Ring
Member
Posts: 3626
VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204
The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans
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« Reply #1 on: February 25, 2010, 10:56:08 AM » |
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Hotrodwing, I'm sending you a copy of my instructions on using the Double Row Wheel Bearing Mod. In case you didn't know there is a 3rd O Ring that needs to be replaced also. How bad are the splines? Are they just rusted or rusted and worn? Marty O Ring thread in Shoptalk http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/Elusive%203rd%20O-Ring.htm |
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« Last Edit: February 25, 2010, 11:17:13 AM by X Ring »
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People are more passionately opposed to wearing fur than leather because it's safer to harass rich women than bikers.  |
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John Schmidt
Member
Posts: 15224
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #2 on: February 25, 2010, 11:28:44 AM » |
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Look on the link Xring gave. The second picture shows where the other o-ring goes. The third o-ring referred to goes in the final drive unit.
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hubcapsc
Member
Posts: 16781
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #3 on: February 25, 2010, 11:32:15 AM » |
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Here's a picture of what was on my bike when I got it... the picture contains an impolite number of pixels, so I'm just posting the link... this is what I'd call not busted - yet... http://hubcap.clemson.edu/~hubcap/spline1.jpgHere's the $300 Pinwall final drive I replaced it with, it still looked pretty much like this to me last time I looked (30,000 miles later)... this is what I'd call what you want... http://hubcap.clemson.edu/~hubcap/d.spline/FINALXDRIVEX%23222X003.jpgYours might not look all worn when you get the rust off, if it cleans up it could be OK, if it is worn, you're riding on borrowed time... Oh yeah... I just got five new sets-of-three Orings quick and cheap from http://www.carolinabikeandtrike.com/ORings.htm-Mike |
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« Last Edit: February 25, 2010, 11:34:04 AM by hubcapsc »
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Hotrodwing
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« Reply #4 on: February 25, 2010, 11:45:34 AM » |
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Thanks guys it looks like I will nned the O ring that goes in the hub. The Oring that goes on the wheel was 95% missing. Can I use a O ring from a local hydralic shop or should I order the Honda part? What about the axel sleeve ? Should it be lager on the end that sits agains the bearing on the hub side?
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Hotrodwing
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« Reply #5 on: February 25, 2010, 11:47:15 AM » |
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I forgot the spines are rusted slightly and not worn.
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John Schmidt
Member
Posts: 15224
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #6 on: February 25, 2010, 12:48:00 PM » |
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Thanks guys it looks like I will nned the O ring that goes in the hub. The Oring that goes on the wheel was 95% missing. Can I use a O ring from a local hydralic shop or should I order the Honda part? What about the axel sleeve ? Should it be lager on the end that sits agains the bearing on the hub side?
I assume you're talking about item #7, kinda works like a spacer between the bearings. No, it should be straight just as the picture shows in the parts breakdown. I would consider replacing it if it's that misshapened. As for the "O" ring, if you can get the right size from a local hydraulic shop that should be OK. Look it up in the the shop manual to be sure of the size, or go online to one of the many sites that give parts dimensions. |
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Hotrodwing
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« Reply #7 on: February 25, 2010, 01:42:14 PM » |
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Yes it is part#7 I will order a new one right now and the 3rd O ring as noted. With the snow coming down here in PA today it's not like I going for a ride any time soon. Thanks for all the help
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Hotrodwing
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« Reply #8 on: February 25, 2010, 02:03:32 PM » |
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UPDATE I SCREWED UP.  it is not part #7. It is the axel sleeve that goes into the final drive. The picture on HDL shows it to have flared end. Is this correct? The picture also looks like the flared end goes toward the outside of the final drive is this also correct? |
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hubcapsc
Member
Posts: 16781
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #9 on: February 25, 2010, 02:08:08 PM » |
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UPDATE I SCREWED UP. it is not part #7. It is the axel sleeve that goes into the final drive. The picture on HDL shows it to have flared end. Is this correct? The picture also looks like the flared end goes toward the outside of the final drive is this also correct? One of the giant pictures I posted a link to above probably shows what you want to see... Remember to consider getting your Orings from carolinabikeandtrike, they come cheap and fast, and CBT is a VRCC sponsor... I just got a new pack of 15 for around $12.00, I change all three with every tire... -Mike |
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RLD
Member
Posts: 318
'99 I/S Red/Black
Eden Prairie, MN
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« Reply #10 on: February 25, 2010, 02:13:47 PM » |
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If it needs repair this badly, I would also pull the rear end and lube the u-joint coming off the engine. Use only grease where the propeller shaft goes into the rear, not the paste used on the u-joint and splines, as this will plug the "weep" hole. Sounds like it's been slightly neglected, but this would pretty much take care of everything back there. It's a good time of year to just take care of it before it becomes a larger problem.
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Dress for the slide, not the ride. ATGATT
VRCC #2505
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Hotrodwing
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« Reply #11 on: February 25, 2010, 02:22:10 PM » |
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RLD, I pulled the rear and the u-joint is still attached to the back of the engine. Should I pull back the rubber boot and pry it from there. Oh by the way I had a stealler mout my tire 2yr's ago and at the time asked how everything looked as I had most of the parts with me. The grease that was ont he hub was not moly for sure. I had a feeling and being I had the time that is why I decided to pull it off myself. thanks again Mike
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Friagabi
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« Reply #12 on: February 25, 2010, 07:30:24 PM » |
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The spacer that goes into the rear drive unit is slightly larger on one end than it is on the other.
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Colin
Member
Posts: 597
My old job
Orba, Spain
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« Reply #13 on: February 25, 2010, 10:12:57 PM » |
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Remember to consider getting your Orings from carolinabikeandtrike, they come cheap and fast,
and CBT is a VRCC sponsor...
I just got a new pack of 15 for around $12.00, I change all three with every tire...
-Mike
Mike I would love to buy some from them BUT despite 3 emails to them which they never answer  I still cannot get any from them. They say they ship overseas BUT you have to email them for a total and they never answer.  Anybody nearby them that can kick them for me? |
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hubcapsc
Member
Posts: 16781
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #14 on: February 26, 2010, 03:58:23 AM » |
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Remember to consider getting your Orings from carolinabikeandtrike, they come cheap and fast,
and CBT is a VRCC sponsor...
I just got a new pack of 15 for around $12.00, I change all three with every tire...
-Mike
Mike I would love to buy some from them BUT despite 3 emails to them which they never answer I still cannot get any from them. They say they ship overseas BUT you have to email them for a total and they never answer. :'( Anybody nearby them that can kick them for me? Check this thread out for some hints on making the ujoint and it's boot less frustrating if you decide to take them off... I'd pay attention to Lady Draco's post, it looks like she has it down... it was easy for me, I had my starter off so there was lots of room, but I think taking the starter off is real hard, so that's not a plan... http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,8073.msg62217.html#msg62217Email me your email address, and I'll try to pass it on to Matt at CBT, I didn't mean to get in the middle of anything, but he's a good guy, has good Orings, and it is a custom to try and support VRCC vendors... -Mike |
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Hotrodwing
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« Reply #15 on: February 27, 2010, 05:16:15 PM » |
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I pulled the u-joint thru the boot opening. it worked great. It is a lot better than removing the swing-arm for sure.The u-joint seemed fine ( nice and tight) there was however a little grease slung around the area of the swing arm where the joint sit's not sure if this is normal. I reinstall and added a little grease to the boot and it slid on in nothing flat I still can not believe how ease it was to reinstall. Thanks  |
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Friagabi
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« Reply #16 on: February 27, 2010, 08:06:06 PM » |
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I use bell-ray waterproof grease. It has been in there for 50K thereabouts. It is a green collor. Used on dirt bikes. I pull the rear wheel once each year and clean and grease all of the splines, Pull the U-joint through the boot, grease the splines there also. Never any rust and no wear that I can see. the IS is a 2000 model and as far as I know it never has had its O rings replaced. Grease is retained on the splines and the grease (not the O rings) keeps the water out. One of these years I should replace the O-rings just because someone else needs the money. Every three years I change the rear drive lube with syn. lube. Flush and rinse it with syn engine oil. Now if I could figure out how to lube the u-joint cross?
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AussieValk
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« Reply #17 on: February 28, 2010, 03:36:36 AM » |
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Remember to consider getting your Orings from carolinabikeandtrike, they come cheap and fast,
and CBT is a VRCC sponsor...
I just got a new pack of 15 for around $12.00, I change all three with every tire...
-Mike
Mike I would love to buy some from them BUT despite 3 emails to them which they never answer I still cannot get any from them. They say they ship overseas BUT you have to email them for a total and they never answer. Anybody nearby them that can kick them for me? I got a price from them late last year and the postage to Australia was twice as much as the O-rings sets cost. I went to my local bearing shop and they sold me the three O-rings for around three dollars Aussie all up. Check out your local shop first. |
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hubcapsc
Member
Posts: 16781
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #18 on: February 28, 2010, 03:49:18 AM » |
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Remember to consider getting your Orings from carolinabikeandtrike, they come cheap and fast,
and CBT is a VRCC sponsor...
I just got a new pack of 15 for around $12.00, I change all three with every tire...
-Mike
Mike I would love to buy some from them BUT despite 3 emails to them which they never answer I still cannot get any from them. They say they ship overseas BUT you have to email them for a total and they never answer. Anybody nearby them that can kick them for me? I got a price from them late last year and the postage to Australia was twice as much as the O-rings sets cost. I went to my local bearing shop and they sold me the three O-rings for around three dollars Aussie all up. Check out your local shop first. It's a knee-jerk reaction to plug the sponsors... I guess I'm kind of ignorant about how hard and or costly it is to get stuff out of the country... -Mike |
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Colin
Member
Posts: 597
My old job
Orba, Spain
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« Reply #19 on: February 28, 2010, 09:33:49 AM » |
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Remember to consider getting your Orings from carolinabikeandtrike, they come cheap and fast,
and CBT is a VRCC sponsor...
I just got a new pack of 15 for around $12.00, I change all three with every tire...
-Mike
Mike I would love to buy some from them BUT despite 3 emails to them which they never answer I still cannot get any from them. They say they ship overseas BUT you have to email them for a total and they never answer. Anybody nearby them that can kick them for me? I got a price from them late last year and the postage to Australia was twice as much as the O-rings sets cost. I went to my local bearing shop and they sold me the three O-rings for around three dollars Aussie all up. Check out your local shop first. It's a knee-jerk reaction to plug the sponsors... I guess I'm kind of ignorant about how hard and or costly it is to get stuff out of the country... -Mike With Mike's help I got in touch with Matt from CBT who was very helpful but the postage was just a bit more than the cost of the rings. I have been told of somewhere local where I may be able to get some so I will try there this week. |
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greggh
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« Reply #20 on: February 28, 2010, 10:51:48 AM » |
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Lots of good advise has just been given!
Just remember upon installation of the rear wheel - be sure to leave the 4 bolts that attach the drive shaft to the rear hub loose until you have tightened the rear axel making certain the splines are aligned correctly.
Then tighten the 4 drive shaft bolts.
I do believe that is the proper sequence of events.
Good luck.
Gregg.
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Friagabi
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« Reply #21 on: February 28, 2010, 06:05:54 PM » |
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Yep, four bolts on the drive unit last. Done it that way so long forget to tell it.
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