Dan Marc Wiring it up

[Larry]

I realize this has been discussed just recently, what I want to know is, does hooking the valve to the coils shut the valve off if the engine stops? Just a bit fuzzy on how that circuit operates.  ??? TIA

[Pete]

If you want the valve to close when the engine stops, wire the valve to the output of the alternator. Depending on where you tap in it may be necessary to isolate from the battery with a diode.

The coils switch off and on with the ignition switch.

So NO.

[John Schmidt]

I just hooked mine up to an auxilary fuse panel I have mounted under the right side cover. It only has power to it when the key is on.

[Larry]

My thinking suggests to me that with the stock set up when the engine is not running vacuum to the petcock stops and the fuel flow stops as well, so with an electric shutoff valve it should function in the same manner in order to be the safest. So for that to be the case, I was wondering where would the best place be to energize the valve.

Pete, where would you do that? I see by the wiring diagram someplace along the white wire?

[BOZ]

Wiring the Dan-Marc valve to the coil wire will shut the valve "off" under any "one" of these conditions:
1.) When the key is off
2.) When the kill switch is in the off position
3.) When the bike is down and the bank angle sensor has been tripped.

So... if the bike is right side up with the key on, the kill switch on and the bike is not running, the valve will be open.

For me... this is simple enough to control. 

[Pete]

With the switch on and the bike not running, use a 12 volt test light, test for no voltage on the connections from the alternator. Then with the bike running test for 12 volts at the same place.

At first glance ..... in order to get 12 volts dc the connection probably needs to be after the rectifier.
And may require a one way current flow restricting diode to prevent battery voltage from activating the valve.

I will have to look at a electrical diagram to see exactly where. Will do that asap.

Although you will still need to run the test to be sure.

Let me look at the diagram and I will repost.

[tlanz]

The alternator is NOT the place to make this connection. Check the schematics carefully: http://www.rattlebars.com/valkfaq/schematics/rpage02.html  You shall find the alt output is wired directly to the battery via the 55A main fuse (B) and thus, is hot all the time. The regulator connection is powered directly from the ignition switch; therefore, when the ignition sw is "on" the regulator feed is hot, engine running or not.

As Boz stated, by connecting the shutoff to the coil power (black/white wire: http://www.rattlebars.com/valkfaq/schematics/rpage06.html ) you have the additional safety of shutting off fuel when the engine cutoff sw is off and/or the bank angle sensor trips.

So yes, this does mean that the shutoff can still be energized with the engine not running. However, at that point you're probably about ready to run and it is certainly safer than most other options.

Beyond that, one possibility to ensure the valve is energized only when the engine is running would be to use the tach signal to drive a circuit that triggers a relay to de/energize the shutoff. Safer? Certainly. Necessary? Only you can decide for yourself.

[Pete]

There are 2 wires coming from the Alternator/Regulator package.   white and  BL/Lg

White wire goes to the battery thru the main fuse, so it has 12 volts ALWAYS battery and alternator ---- not what we want.  Switch on/off does NOT matter, valve connected to white wire would only disconnect with battery failure or fuse failure unless a diode is added, diode may interfere with charging circuit, again not what we want.


A BL/Lg wire goes from the regulator to the bank angle sensor. It appears that it is isolated from the battery. But run the test in the prior post to be SURE. If it has no voltage with the switch on, motor not running and 13+ volts with the motor running, simply connect it to the fuel power wire and connect the ground side of the fuel valve and you are done.

If the test does not work, post back the results and I will look at another more complex solution.

[Pete]

Been reading the service manual.

I suspect that when you run the test, you will see battery voltage with the switch on and engine not running.

If that is true then the connection MUST be made using a diode.

2 options:

Option 1

Make the connection in the regulator before the existing last output diode. That does require removal and dis-assembly of the alternator, as the regulator is internal in the alternator. Not sure if the regulator is a sealed unit or not. That last diode prevents the battery voltage from getting to the alternator/regulator and to the connection to your fuel valve.

Option 2

Install a 12 volt/55 AMP or larger capable diode (or battery isolator) in the main alternator (white) wire and then connect your fuel valve between the alternator and the diode. I suspect an isolator may be easier to obtain, install and less expensive, but check on both. Battery isolators are available at camper outlets. Some battery isolator are diodes with terminal connectors. Diodes are available search the net for 55 amp diode.

Sorry this got some complex, good luck.
 

[Garland]

I just hooked mine up to an auxilary fuse panel I have mounted under the right side cover. It only has power to it when the key is on.

I did the same thing. Easy-pleasy-lemon-squeezy. I understand that it wont shut off if the bike tips over, but otherwise I see no drawback.

[Larry]

Thanks guys for the additional information. The additional input really helps to make an informed decision to reach a good balance between complexity and safety.