Brake Bleeding...(fluid change)

[Chrisj CMA]

Ok question for the smarter mechanics (than me) in here.  I was talking to a mechanic, mentioned I need to change out the brake fluid in my old Ford.  He asked how I was going to do it......and I described the old fashioned way of pressing the brake open the nipple close release etc.

He says he does all his brake fluid changes by gravity feed.  Simply connect a hose to the nipple, remove the master cylinder cover and open the nipple.  Then stand by the master cylinder to keep it full and let gravity cause the fluid to drain out. 

I didnt necessarily not believe it was possible, just doubted that it would be very quick or better stated .... I figured it would take all day that way.  He says no, quick and easy dont waste money on fancy doo dads just let gravity do the work.

Anyone done this?  Will it work the same on a Valkyrie?  I knoe, just try it.....I am soon, just wondered 

[John U.]

Chris, I don't claim to be smarter or more experienced but I think brake fluid is too viscous to run out quickly. Besides, if it worked well and fast enough I'm sure we'd all have been doing it that way for years.
I think you're right, it would take all day. I'll sure find out next time.

[3W-lonerider]

chris..iv'e done it that way on cars before..and it does work..might take ya a half hour to work the new fluid threw..or you could get 4 peices of rubber hose and 4 jars..drill a hole in the top of each jar and fill each jar with just enough brake fluid to submerge the rubber hose in each. then attach the other end to a 4 bleeders open them slightly and pump the pedal..when the fluid gets down fill the bowls back up..or just use 1 jar and do each wheel at a time..but to the guy that told you gravity bleeding works..he is correct.iv'e replaced wheel clylinders on cars before and gravity bled the new wheel cylinder..probably took 2 minutes to bleed it. but that was'nt doing the whole system. i'd say half hour if doing all 4 wheels at once.

[Robert]

On some systems gravity bleed does work, but its really not the best. I know that your just changing the fluid but if you have air in the system without the pressure/circulation it doesn't remove all of it. The newer abs systems will usually not bleed that way and the tube in the bottle I usually dont have luck with. I have also had the pressure bleeders that you put a cap on the brake reservoir and pressurized it up to 5 lbs and had some success. But like you I'm usually back to the old way of doing things. A vacuum bleeder does work with the final bleed by pumping the pedal.

[sandy]

I have a MityVac and a vacuum bleeder that uses compressed air to create a vacuum. I suck out all the old fluid; refill with denatured alcohol and suck that out. No moisture left in the system. You'd be surprised what comes out. Refill with DOT 4 and bleed with the vac bleeder. You'd be surprised how good the lever/pedal feel is. I did my '94 F150 this way and the brake pedal has never felt better.

[fast black]

I use that method to bleed the front brakes and clutch on my Valkyrie, but for the rear brake I push down on brake pedal.
adios
fast black

[Spirited-6]

..or you could get 4 peices of rubber hose and 4 jars..drill a hole in the top of each jar and fill each jar with just enough brake fluid to submerge the rubber hose in each. then attach the other end to a 4 bleeders open them slightly and pump the pedal..when the fluid gets down fill the bowls back up..or just use 1 jar and do each wheel at a time

I don`t know why most folks make a big deal out of changing fluids. I can change them on my Tourer in 30 -45 minutes using the above. Attach the hose to bleeder, open, pump and fill as you pump. Just make sure the end in the bottle stays covered with fluid, I hot glued mine to bottle cap to stop from pulling out. 

[Shotgun]

I put Speedbleeders on mine about 6 years ago and have bled them each year since.......really easy and quick.

[Tim H]

I've been looking for fluid measurements and can't seem to find them.  How much DOT4 do I need to change the front, rear, and clutch fluids?  I was thinking about getting Pro Honda Brake Fluid DOT 4 12 oz.  1, 2, 3 bottles?  I didn't want to have anything sitting on the shelf for a couple of years.

[5_19]

Ok question for the smarter mechanics (than me) in here.  I was talking to a mechanic, mentioned I need to change out the brake fluid in my old Ford.  He asked how I was going to do it......and I described the old fashioned way of pressing the brake open the nipple close release etc.

He says he does all his brake fluid changes by gravity feed.  Simply connect a hose to the nipple, remove the master cylinder cover and open the nipple.  Then stand by the master cylinder to keep it full and let gravity cause the fluid to drain out. 

I didnt necessarily not believe it was possible, just doubted that it would be very quick or better stated .... I figured it would take all day that way.  He says no, quick and easy dont waste money on fancy doo dads just let gravity do the work.

Anyone done this?  Will it work the same on a Valkyrie?  I knoe, just try it.....I am soon, just wondered 

That's how I do all my bikes! Attach a clear hose(see thru)with a raised up bike. I make sure the hose reaches the container on the floor and crack the bleeder with the hose attached. Be prepared because you don't have much time or the reservoir will be empty. I bleed till it runs clear and clean. Once the hose is filled up with brake fluid I pump the brakes a few time to create a little bit of turbulence in the line. For people who are vertically challenged they need a chair or something. 

[98valk]

I've been looking for fluid measurements and can't seem to find them.  How much DOT4 do I need to change the front, rear, and clutch fluids?  I was thinking about getting Pro Honda Brake Fluid DOT 4 12 oz.  1, 2, 3 bottles?  I didn't want to have anything sitting on the shelf for a couple of years.

get the highest DOT 4 wet boling point, dry boiling point is for the track. do u know what the #s are for the pro honda.

http://www.raceshopper.com/brake_fluid.shtml

http://www.prestone.com/products/print/440?popup=1   good price at walmart

[RonW]

here's an internet write-up on the topic using somewhat of an IV setup (bottom left photo). With 'reverse bleeding' it's either a gravity fed from the top at the fluid reservoir or vacuum from the bottom at bleeder nipple, or I suppose a combination of the two. There's a note on the very bottom of the link on bleeding dual brakes. I've been using Speed Bleeders®. I ordered direct from the seller.

[Edit] "reverse bleeding?" .... whatever wuz I talking about?

   

[WDAN]

There are a lot of good videos to be found on You Tube covering the various methods and products available for bleeding brakes.

[Patrick]

You have probably received some good info about changing your brake fluid in your Ford, and, maybe some thats not so good.. I assume you're going to do it all by yourself at home.. Gravity may or may not work.. The fastest and easiest way is to grab your wife and stick her in the drivers seat.. Suck most of fluid from the master and fill with the new stuff.. Start at the far cylinder[right rear] and start bleeding until the fluid runs clear then work your way to the nearest cylinder to the master,, left rear, right front, left front.. Don't let the master go dry.. Use the 'pump and hold, open, close and do it again' method.. It probably took longer to write this than to do the job..

[Chrisj CMA]

You have probably received some good info about changing your brake fluid in your Ford, and, maybe some thats not so good.. I assume you're going to do it all by yourself at home.. Gravity may or may not work.. The fastest and easiest way is to grab your wife and stick her in the drivers seat.. Suck most of fluid from the master and fill with the new stuff.. Start at the far cylinder[right rear] and start bleeding until the fluid runs clear then work your way to the nearest cylinder to the master,, left rear, right front, left front.. Don't let the master go dry.. Use the 'pump and hold, open, close and do it again' method.. It probably took longer to write this than to do the job..

Thats word for word what I plan to do........when the "mechanic" I was talking about heard that, is when he said, all I had to ddo was open and pour.....gravity.

Seems like my first instinct is going to prevail....just do it the old open close and pump method and be done with it

[The Anvil]

Bottom line; gravity will "work" at changing out your fluid but will not effectively remove contaminants.

That's how lazy mechanics do it. Put the car on the lift, let it drain while you work on something else... It's really not how it should be done if you want it done right.

[Ricky-D]

Bottom line; gravity will "work" at changing out your fluid but will not effectively remove contaminants.

That's how lazy mechanics do it. Put the car on the lift, let it drain while you work on something else... It's really not how it should be done if you want it done right.

I agree with Anvil, if all the chore, is to simply change out the fluid then what is proposed will be adequate but if you're expecting anything more, you're kidding yourself.

The contaminants be as they are, are settling in the bottom of every low spot and on all surfaces that are not regularly exposed to fluid turbulence.  A simple change will do nothing to to affect that crap.

The most affected place is usually in the bottom of the caliper bores where there is no sweeping action from the seals. That by the way is where most caliper problems begin.

***

[hubcapsc]

The most affected place is usually in the bottom of the caliper bores where there is no sweeping action from the seals. That by the way is where most caliper problems begin.

Nahhh... 



-Mike

[ricoman]

Ok question for the smarter mechanics (than me) in here.  I was talking to a mechanic, mentioned I need to change out the brake fluid in my old Ford.  He asked how I was going to do it......and I described the old fashioned way of pressing the brake open the nipple close release etc.

He says he does all his brake fluid changes by gravity feed.  Simply connect a hose to the nipple, remove the master cylinder cover and open the nipple.  Then stand by the master cylinder to keep it full and let gravity cause the fluid to drain out. 

I didnt necessarily not believe it was possible, just doubted that it would be very quick or better stated .... I figured it would take all day that way.  He says no, quick and easy dont waste money on fancy doo dads just let gravity do the work.

Anyone done this?  Will it work the same on a Valkyrie?  I knoe, just try it.....I am soon, just wondered 

Hells bells, gravity will empty a jar of peanut butter with the lid off and if you have time to wait!

[Tim H]

Fortunately for me, the neighbors next door ride Moto, and they have a vast amount of tools that I can borrow from.  I hope they stay there a long time.