Setting the correct FT LBS for the Steeering head

[greggh]

When setting the correct FT LBS for the steering head, I am to understand that the front wheel is to be installed as well?
I am putting the front end back together and want to make sure I get this right the first time.

Please advise.
Thank you.
Gregg

[fudgie]

I did mine without the front tire. It'll make the front end lighter. Not sure what the book says. Recheck it in a 1000 miles or so.

[greggh]

Did you use a fish scale or what did you use to check the FT LBS?

Gregg

[DFragn]

The Standard & Tourer is 12# finish torque to the stem bearings. The I/S is "I think" 9#'s. DBL check this number before listening to me for the Interstate.

The manual says to seat the bearings at 30 lbs. I found they seated better at 60 - 65 lbs. A short time later I was talking with my favorite Honda mechanic and he said they always seat 'em at about 60lbs. or a little more. Whew, I was glad my gut feeling was in line with them.

Seat 'em at 60 and work the steering lock-to-lock. I repeated this about three times before final torque of 12 lbs. for my Tourer (State). Never had to go back in and re-torque in about 12k miles and she's good to triple digits and hands free with cruise & deceleration.

[fudgie]

Never had to go back in and re-torque in about 12k miles and she's good to triple digits and hands free with cruise & deceleration.

Mine was 2. Handled great. Did 15k that year. Happened to have the front wheel off one day and noticed my bars would move front to back. Hmmmm..... Check torque and got 3 complete turns of the nut. I could not notice due to the extra weight of the front wheel made the bars seem solid. I was like, damn. 

[greggh]

I did as the manual said at 30.
Gues I will go back and do it to 60 and then work down from there.

My Main concern is the 1.2 ft lbs - 2.2 ft lbs on the main side to side flop.
How do you gauge that?

Gregg

[Michvalk]

A fish scale will work

[greggh]

Sweet going to get one now.

See ya.

Gregg

[DFragn]

Never had to go back in and re-torque in about 12k miles and she's good to triple digits and hands free with cruise & deceleration.

Mine was 2. Handled great. Did 15k that year. Happened to have the front wheel off one day and noticed my bars would move front to back. Hmmmm..... Check torque and got 3 complete turns of the nut. I could not notice due to the extra weight of the front wheel made the bars seem solid. I was like, damn. 

3 full turns??? You must have had some serious wobble/tank slapping going on.
You sure your talking about the stem adjustment nut? Because it would be impossible for the lock-washer, lock nut, top clamp & steering stem nut [finish cap nut, the one you can see] to allow the adjustment nut to go that far out. Not mention your top roller bearings would have been floating out of the race and all the racket from the stem slamming from top to bottom over bumps.

[DFragn]

Sweet going to get one now.

See ya.

Gregg

If you have the top clamp off just check the torque. The spring scale is for testing to avoid opening it all up to verify torque settings.

If you re-torqued and your bearings were in good shape [did you re-pack 'em?] and races are not notched, torque it and forget it. Save chasing the fish scale for a rainy day.

Personally, I don't trust the fish scale ,cause I refuse to undo all my cabling  I have 3 times the stock cabling these days, had to modify my neck covers to allow all the additions.

[fudgie]

Never had to go back in and re-torque in about 12k miles and she's good to triple digits and hands free with cruise & deceleration.

Mine was 2. Handled great. Did 15k that year. Happened to have the front wheel off one day and noticed my bars would move front to back. Hmmmm..... Check torque and got 3 complete turns of the nut. I could not notice due to the extra weight of the front wheel made the bars seem solid. I was like, damn. 

3 full turns??? You must have had some serious wobble/tank slapping going on.
You sure your talking about the stem adjustment nut? Because it would be impossible for the lock-washer, lock nut, top clamp & steering stem nut [finish cap nut, the one you can see] to allow the adjustment nut to go that far out. Not mention your top roller bearings would have been floating out of the race and all the racket from the stem slamming from top to bottom over bumps.

Nope no problems. Figured I would. My best guess is the bearings were not seated good enough.

[greggh]

New Bearings and races.
Retorked to 60 lbs and did the right to Left thing lossend retorked and again and again.
Scale pulls at around 2.4

I am satisfied with that.

Now I need to get the new rotors to stop rubing on the left side.
I will do some readjusting Sunday.

[Gryphon Rider]

Now I need to get the new rotors to stop rubing on the left side.
I will do some readjusting Sunday.

Are you talking about the left brake rotor?  You may not have the axle head seated flush to the outside of the fork.

[greggh]

That is is exactly what I was thinking.
Get out of my head not much room in there.

Will go back and do the process over agian until it is correct.

Thanks
Gregg

[greggh]

It is fixed.
Cleanup in process.
Then go riding to bed the brakes in.