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Author Topic: Nology Hotwires on 97 Valkyrie  (Read 4162 times)
z1eyedjack
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« on: April 25, 2010, 07:38:30 PM »

Has anyone used Nology spark plug wires on their Valk?  I just bought them and have a few questions.  First, do they require the use of nology plugs too?  Also, the boot doesn't seem like it's right?  It doesn't sit like the boot on the stock wires.  Seems strange because not only does the plug not fit snug in the boot, the boot doesn't cover the plug hole.  Do I need to swap the stock boot on the Nology wire?  Thanks in advance.
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BonS
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Blue Springs, MO


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« Reply #1 on: April 25, 2010, 07:59:50 PM »

Don't know Nology wires but the stock plug boots keep water (and stuff) from entering the spark plug hole. There are drain holes but they can get plugged up and cause water to accumulate and then the plugs rust. You should blow out the recessed plug holes before removing the plugs in any case but I'd prefer to keep that hole as clean as possible just in case. In short, I'd stay with the OEM plug boot.
« Last Edit: April 26, 2010, 06:21:59 AM by BonS » Logged

z1eyedjack
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« Reply #2 on: April 26, 2010, 06:55:14 AM »

WOW!  Thanks so much for that info.  I wish I would have posted this question before I went out and bought these things.   Embarrassed  Hopefully I won't be given any problems when trying to return them.  So what does everyone suggest when replacing wires?  Just stick with OEM?  Thanks!
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John Schmidt
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a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #3 on: April 26, 2010, 07:09:28 AM »

First, it's doubtful your wires need replacing. I replaced mine simply for cosmetics, and used the OEM boots. I did the pictures and writeup in the link, showing really how easy it is to change the wires and use the OEM boots...to boot.  Wink Just remember, the OEM wires are a solid wire core with a resistor in the boot. If you have an I/S or a radio added to your bike, the resistor helps with cutting plug noise picked up.

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/ShopTalk/plugwires.pdf
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z1eyedjack
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« Reply #4 on: April 26, 2010, 07:39:44 AM »

Thanks for the quick reply.  And again, I'm sorry for not posting this question sooner.  Because originally, I didn't think  it was my wires either.  Here's some background of what lead up to my purchase of the wires, though.  Hopefully someone can help me to diagnose the real issue here so I don't end up spending any more than necessary.

The bike had been sitting for most of the season last year.  I only had it out 3 times--tops!  I think I put less than 300 miles on it all year.  Stored it in the garage all winter in NY with a battery tender but no fuel stabilizer.  When it came time to start it this spring, she would not start.  I ended up finally getting her started after many failed attemts (and a lot of starter fluild) and she seemed to be running pretty good, Except that there was some strange feel when going from a dead stop.  Like I needed to give her more gas than usual after engaging first gear.  She had plently of power though once she got going.    But then, after about a 1 hr ride or so, just as I was pulling down my block, I felt as if something was seriously wrong.  It felt like the engine was hesitating as I was accelerating.  Almost like it feels when you shut the petcock off while riding.  And she had a very different sound--still had power, just a different sound/feel.  Almost like a fluttering sound.  I want to say "knocking" but I don't think that's the right word.   

I brought her home, let her sit for a while and then did some reasearch.  So I did the easy stuff first.  I replaced all the vaccuum lines and intake caps with RedEye's.  I bought Carbtune and synched the carbs, did an oil change, tightened the header bolts--I even went so far as to replace the header gaskets.  I did a compression test and all is ok.  After all this, she for sure runs better, but I just still sense something is still wrong.  I can feel and hear that it's coming from the right side.  I changed the spark plugs 500 miles ago and rechecked the gap.   And after doing all the above, what I noticed was that while she's idling at 900rpms or, when I'm trying to hold a steady idle at say 2k or 3k rpms, she bounces +- 200rpms.  Is this normal? 

A friend of mine suggested that we pull the plug wires one at a time to see if there is any difference in idle speed.  And what we found was that with #'s 3 and 5, there is no change in the rpms.  With the others pulled one at a time, the idle drops significantly.  So, hence my decision above--replace the wires.  Since 3 and 5 are on different coils, and it is not likely that 2 coils are bad, I decided to go with the wires. 

Oh, and forgot to mention, the strange feeling with the initial take off was resolved by removing a bit of clutch fluid from the reservoir.  I think it was overfilled.  And also,  she's a 97 Standard with about 20,000 miles on her. 

Thank you all for your help with this.  Not too sure what else it could be.  I have been reading all the posts and trying to find someone with the same issue.  Many sound similar but not quite what I'm experiencing.  I thinking the next step is a valve check.  I just didn't want to have to go there.  I'm not that "mechanically inclined".  Most of what I know now I learned from reading the great posts on this forum.  Smiley
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KY,Dave (AKA Misunderstood)
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Specimen #30838 DS #0233

Williamsburg, KY


« Reply #5 on: April 26, 2010, 07:46:06 AM »

I'm no carb expert or novice for that matter, but sounds like some sticking jets. Try some seafoam run thru it. These bikes weren't made to sit. They need to be riden. I'm sure you'll correct that.  cooldude
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John U.
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Southern Delaware


« Reply #6 on: April 26, 2010, 09:56:00 AM »

After sitting that long without stabilizer, clogged slow jets are almost assured. If it will run good with the choke on and will run well above 3,000 rpms or with 1/2 throttle or more that is an indication of clogged slows.
 It is possible that a very strong dose of Techron fuel system cleaner will open them up, but sitting for that long maybe not. Put a whole bottle in a couple og gallons of fresh gas, run the bike until warm, let it sit overnight and run it some more. Do this for several days and if you're lucky, all may be well.

If no luck, the carbs can be removed and cleaned or replaced by removing the carb bank, or by removing the airbox and intake tubes and holding up one side at a time with a bungee cord. The latter method requires a flashlight, inspection mirror, offset screw driver and nimble fingers. It also helps a lot if the bike is on a lift.
Be careful with the screws holding the float bowls to the carbs. They are JIS phillips, (an American Pillips doesn't fit quite right) and are soft so they strip out easily. Most of us replace them with stainless allen screws. The JIS screwdriver bits can be found at: http://www.rjrcooltools.com/shop_item_detail.cfm?subcat_ID=89

I found that cleaning the slow jets was a problem, so I replaced them with 38's (the OEM are 35's) hoping to eliminate a flat spot. This will work but requires the pilot screws to be tightened to 1 3/4 turns out from lightly seated.
Chapparal or Sudco have the jets.

While you have the carb bowls off is a good time to spray some carb cleaner. The  pilot screws can be removed for that purpose but be careful of the very small parts. Take a look at HDL's microfische to see how the parts go together.
Good luck, let us know how it works out.
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z1eyedjack
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« Reply #7 on: April 26, 2010, 11:42:09 AM »

Thank you all very much for your input on this.  I'm kicking myself right now for not posting this a week ago.  I just went with my gut instinct.  In any case, I just got off the phone with New Level Motorsports, where I purchased the Nology wires and explained the situation to him and that I would like to return them.  He says there's a 20% restocking fee.  What a joke!!!  I told him not only do the boots not fit, but that I've been informed that these wires have been shown to cause more issues than solve on Valkyries.  And that's when he started to get defensive--even angry with me.  He directed me to call Nology and talk to them.  So I did, which also was a complete waste of time.  The guy over there tells me that you have to use the caps on the plugs for these wires to work and that they are best used with Nology plugs, which cost over $11 each.  Shocked  I asked him if they're compatable with NGK plugs and he said yes, but that you have to use the caps.  Well, they only gave me 4 and the Valkyrie is a 6 2funny.  

Needless to say, I called New Level back and told them to expect my return.  So $40 later + return postage, I'm off to buy a can of SeaFoam and put my bike back together.  
« Last Edit: April 26, 2010, 11:50:05 AM by z1eyedjack » Logged
Willow
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Excessive comfort breeds weakness. PttP

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« Reply #8 on: April 26, 2010, 11:57:20 AM »

Needless to say, I called New Level back and told them to expect my return.  So $40 later + return postage, I'm off to buy a can of SeaFoam and put my bike back together.

Seafoam is good for normal maintenance, but if you've got serious gunk to remove you need to use Techron.
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z1eyedjack
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« Reply #9 on: April 26, 2010, 12:00:47 PM »

Ok, will do.  But one other question.  Now that I have the airbox off, does it make sense, or is it wise to shoot some carb cleaner into the carbs also, or is that not wise/useful unless I disassemble?
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Scott in Ok
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Oklahoma City, Ok


« Reply #10 on: April 26, 2010, 07:46:56 PM »

Ok, will do.  But one other question.  Now that I have the airbox off, does it make sense, or is it wise to shoot some carb cleaner into the carbs also, or is that not wise/useful unless I disassemble?

If you've got the airbox off, you might as well pull the carbs and give them a proper cleaning.

Spraying carb cleaner down the throat of the carb won't do much good if its a gunked up jet.

-Scott
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