What else could it be

[Big IV]

Yesterday on the way to my evening job (in high wind on wet roads) the bike felt like it was slipping and leaning oddly. I almost dismissed it as wind and rain but something didn't feel right. I barely arrived to work on time, but after work I checked my tire air pressure and it was good. I was expecting it to be a little low.

On the way home it felt fine for a while (and had felt fine that morning). Then the noises started. Small metallic noises. It only happened when the bike was moving. The rear end didn't feel quite right.  The best way to describe the feeling is that it felt like a loose chain on my CB750. It felt like a slapping that cause the bike to shiver.

It was intermitnet problem. I hate those. It would shimmy (for lack of a better word) and then be fine for a few miles. The length varied. I stopped and checked for tire rub or loose rattles on the rear end. I even made sure the caliper and bag hardware wasn't bumping and smacking. It seems tight.

I'm missing something.

I limped it home.

Today I had to go to work (borrowed the wife's car) and didn't get a chance to take it apart. Tomorrow I hope to prep pulling the rear end and checking it out. My fear is that the final drive has a problem.

But could it be anything else? Before I tear into it I need to have a laundry list of things to check. I don't want to get in a hurry and miss something. Suggestions?

[hubcapsc]

Maybe a wheel bearing. Maybe something about the final drive that's cheaper than a new pumpkin and
a flange... maybe the universal, or pinion cup/shaft...

Good luck on it being something cheaper...

-Mike

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

If you pull the wheel go ahead and pull the final drive and check the pinion cup and u-joint while your in there to have piece of mind. It sounds like a bearing to me but check it all out at one time.

[98valk]

check shock bushings or tire belt shifted

[AussieValk]

I just went through the process of tracking down a rattly noise in the rear wheel. Left bearing was shot, I mean totally destroyed. I changed out the drive shaft and pinion cup at the same time as I had those here anyway, only slight wear on the drive shaft spline but not the pinion cup. I'll bet it's a bearing.

[BF]

I'm still learning about this thing called Valkyrie...even though I've owned it almost two full years now, and I hate to sound like a dumbass, but what is a pumpkin?  I think I understand most of the components on the rear of the bike, but I'm lost with pumpkin. 

[Smokinjoe-VRCCDS#0005]

I'd bet money on left rear bearing ...Been there ,done that on all three of my Valkyrie's . Next time I'm cutting the spacer down and putting a right side bearing on the left I've never had any problem whatsoever out of the bigger right bearing.

[Sodbuster]

You didn't mention what year and how many miles you have on it ....

[Dino]

 John,it sounds like a wheel bearing.Did they service the drive shaft ,and pinion cup last year when you hit that tire piercing bone? I had to completely rebuild my driveline last fall (except final drive)),but when my shaft &pinion cup let go,there was no mistaking that noise, and she got a ride home on a trailer. We have a lot of roads to cover this summer get her fixed good., Hope this don't delay your  trip up here. let me know if you need anything ,good luck.

[Big IV]

John,it sounds like a wheel bearing.Did they service the drive shaft ,and pinion cup last year when you hit that tire piercing bone? I had to completely rebuild my driveline last fall (except final drive)),but when my shaft &pinion cup let go,there was no mistaking that noise, and she got a ride home on a trailer. We have a lot of roads to cover this summer get her fixed good., Hope this don't delay your  trip up here. let me know if you need anything ,good luck.

I'm moving up to PA on the 15th--one way or another. I hate feeling like I'm rushing to get things diagnosed and fixed.  I'm in the last two weeks of work and I cannot take a day off to fix anything.

Wheel bearing makes sense. That would be an easy thing to get. If it is one of the wheel bearings it wouldn't be hard to replace them all. I don't have any on hand, but should be able to get it quickly.

I have a spare drive shaft on hand. It'd be nice if something would break that I keep a spare in the shed! Oh well. Perhaps that is why I have a spare so that I won't need it.

I'll keep you posted.

[hubcapsc]

I'm still learning about this thing called Valkyrie...even though I've owned it almost two full years now, and I hate to sound like a dumbass, but what is a pumpkin?  I think I understand most of the components on the rear of the bike, but I'm lost with pumpkin. 

Just a silly name for all this mess:

     

If you really squint, the case might look kind of like a pumpkin 

-Mike

[BF]

Thanks hubcap.....I thought I was missing something.   

[Big IV]

I'm fairly certain that pumpkin is not the offical techincal term.
However, I was sitting on my Ford F100's final drive the other day, looked down and thought..."this does look like a pumpkin."  On the Valk I don't see it.

[Big IV]

You didn't mention what year and how many miles you have on it ....

1998 Tourer
Just shy of 84,000 miles on it I believe.

[Ricky-D]

Sounds to me that a loose rear axle could cause all of the symptoms you report!

***

[Jay]

Sounds like the left rear wheel bearing to me.

[Big IV]

Rear axle appeared to be tight as I pulled it out. Final drive looks okay (time to grease and change the drive oil since I have it down).
The bearings are both bad. I've removed them and blown the dust and metal shavings out of the center.

Now its time to order parts.
Thanks for the advice.

[Bob E.]

If you have a couple days to wait for shipping, here's a couple links with great prices.  I paid around $15 for the left rear and about $45 for the right at a local bearing supply house.  This was pretty consistent with ordering them from NAPA, etc.  I wish I would have had these links back then. 

http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit6936

http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/6204-2RS-1

[X Ring]

If you have a couple days to wait for shipping, here's a couple links with great prices.  I paid around $15 for the left rear and about $45 for the right at a local bearing supply house.  This was pretty consistent with ordering them from NAPA, etc.  I wish I would have had these links back then. 

http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit6936

http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/6204-2RS-1

No you don't.  Iirc from the bearing research I did a last year, VXB bearings are made in China.  You need to base bearing decisions on something a helluva lot more significant than price.  We've had members buy bearings and discover they had phenolic aka plastic cages.  So they purchased at a great price, tore their Valk down, and installed the bearings.  They had a problem, tore their valk down again and discovered the bearing was crap.  Then they ended up buying a quality bearing.  Moral of this story:  Buy a top tier bearing the first time and the chances of you having to do it again are significantly reduced. 

Go to your local bearing house, discuss with the people there what you're using the bearing for and ask for the best bearing available.  Yes, you will pay for it.  At my local bearing house, I use Motion Industries,  I purchased SKF 3204-2RS for approximately $42 and 6204-2RS for appoximately $11 apiece. 

Pay for quality not for junk.

Marty

[Bob E.]

If you have a couple days to wait for shipping, here's a couple links with great prices.  I paid around $15 for the left rear and about $45 for the right at a local bearing supply house.  This was pretty consistent with ordering them from NAPA, etc.  I wish I would have had these links back then. 

http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit6936

http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/6204-2RS-1

No you don't.  Iirc from the bearing research I did a last year, VXB bearings are made in China.  You need to base bearing decisions on something a helluva lot more significant than price.  We've had members buy bearings and discover they had phenolic aka plastic cages.  So they purchased at a great price, tore their Valk down, and installed the bearings.  They had a problem, tore their valk down again and discovered the bearing was crap.  Then they ended up buying a quality bearing.  Moral of this story:  Buy a top tier bearing the first time and the chances of you having to do it again are significantly reduced. 

Go to your local bearing house, discuss with the people there what you're using the bearing for and ask for the best bearing available.  Yes, you will pay for it.  At my local bearing house, I use Motion Industries,  I purchased SKF 3204-2RS for approximately $42 and 6204-2RS for appoximately $11 apiece. 

Pay for quality not for junk.

Marty

You're probably right.  I thought I remember folks having good results with these bearings...which is why I had snagged the links from the original posts here in the first place.  But I totally agree if they are junk.

[Willow]

I have a spare drive shaft on hand. It'd be nice if something would break that I keep a spare in the shed! Oh well. Perhaps that is why I have a spare so that I won't need it.

I hope you have a spare pinion cup to go with your drive shaft.  They should be replaced together.

[hubcapsc]

I have a spare drive shaft on hand. It'd be nice if something would break that I keep a spare in the shed! Oh well. Perhaps that is why I have a spare so that I won't need it.

I hope you have a spare pinion cup to go with your drive shaft.  They should be replaced together.

I'm not arguing, because what you say makes perfect sense... I hate it, though, that I pulled this shaft:



Out of this pinion cup:



I replaced them both together, because it seemed like the right thing to do. But I couldn't tell the difference between the
new one and the old one, and I didn't throw the old one away...

-Mike

[Big IV]

I do have a spare cup, shaft, and swing arm. Gotta love the VRCC coming through with more than I needed when I needed it in a hurry.



But I concur Willow somethings should move as a set.

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

I've ran bearings from VXB in both my tourer and my I/S with no problems. I got about 60k out one set and that's as good as most bearings I've tried. All bearings is where the local Honda gets their bearings the parts guy said they didn't use OEM replacement bearing cause they were too pricey. P.S. the replacement bearings I got from a bearing house for my front wheel were KOYO from guess where China.

[2qmedic]

I replaced my rear left bearing with the right bearing and had the spacer cut down. It sure makes you feel a lot more comfortable knowing the strength of it.

When I purchased the bearing, I spoke to a engineer about the bearings and the mfg. The basic on the info was that the "mfg's" have a standard rating system, be it USA, China, India ect.

The info that a person needs to pay attention to is to make sure that the bearing was rated for the application. The parts stores can sell you a low grade bearing when a higher grade is warranted, but the parts sales person may not have a clue as to the ratings ect.

Call a bearing distributor and ask to speak to some one who "knows" their stuff. And then buy the bearing. You will feel better about your purchase.

Yall have a good day!!!



 
 

[X Ring]

There's a couple of reasons I won't buy Chinese bearings.  A. They're the ones who sent us poisoned pet food and baby formula.  That tells us they don't give a damn about quality.  They just care about getting our money.  B.  Call me patriotic but I'd rather buy something made in America and keep a fellow American in a job.  I'm willing to pay for that.  

Marty

[Ricky-D]

Wait a minute!

All this talk is about bearings that will not see rotational speeds above a couple hundred rpms.

Precision in bearings is rated in ability to handle high rpms!

The probability of bearing failure in low rpm use is close to nil.

Chances are your wheel bearings are and will continue to work fine. There is no preventive maintenance requirement for bearings. Change em when they're bad.

Cheeesh!

***

[2qmedic]

I think that this could really explain a lot at this point.

http://www.bearingsindustry.com/aboutbearing/select.htm

Note: 80 mph (typical expressway speed) = 1058.6 rpm