2 Many
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« on: May 15, 2010, 04:11:50 PM » |
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My Valk has 50,000 miles on it. I bought it from a guy at 47,000 who used it for his daily ride back and forth to work, so it has seen all kinds of weather from cold, heat to rain sitting outside 5 days a week.
He probably didn't notice it but the rear brakes are not good. He said he had the pads on both a while back. I switched the fluid and it was an orange/brown color as was the front. The level was a bit low before I started and I had a friend to help instead of using the bleeder tool.
Took a while just to pump pressure after he broke the bleeder loose. But I pumped and pumped and we bleed about 4 reserviors full of fluid thru until it was clear. After I finished, it still will not pump up --- it just goes about half way before it firms up a bit. (Is that normal?)
Now the pedel goes a ways before it gets firm and even if you stand on it, the rear wheel will not lock up. The rear brake does very, very little to stop the bike. I was thinking master cylinder until I did a search and read about piston freezing up.
What do you guys think?
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How many bikes are enough?
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2 Many
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« Reply #1 on: May 15, 2010, 04:14:59 PM » |
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Another thing--- the rear caliper is a bit loose as is one of the 2 front. You can shake and rattle it around a bit from side to side even though the bolts are tight. Is that normal?
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How many bikes are enough?
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Tinman
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« Reply #2 on: May 15, 2010, 05:57:22 PM » |
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Well the rear brake is not that good on a Valk. You should use OEM pads in case the ones you have are not. Secondly standing on the lever should lock up the wheel. The calipers are floating calipers front and rear so you should be able to wiggle them a little. The only way to firm them up is to change to stainless braded brake lines. Anyone else care to chime in?
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1FAST6
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« Reply #3 on: May 15, 2010, 08:31:07 PM » |
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Yep! The wheel should lock-up, but it's very scarey when she does! If you have a car tire, it may not lock-up as easy as with a bike tire. I stood pretty hard on mine with the Car Tire and it didn't lock, but I was glad of it! Honestly, that's the only thing I liked about the CT. There is some play in the peddle before the brakes start to grab. You get about 80% of your stopping power from the front, so that only leaves 20% at the rear. I use both most of the time, but the back doesn't do much more than slow her down a little.
Hope this helps!
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2 Many
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« Reply #4 on: May 16, 2010, 06:36:07 AM » |
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Thanks fellas. Sounds like there may not be that much wrong at all. I have always used the front for most of the braking anyway. I have a car tire on my VTX, but not the Valkyrie.
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How many bikes are enough?
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Hoser
Member
    
Posts: 5844
child of the sixties VRCC 17899
Auburn, Kansas
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« Reply #5 on: May 16, 2010, 06:47:55 AM » |
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I think I would go through the brakes completely, also the rear wheel and hub maintenance, it don't sound like it has had much care. Hoser 
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I don't want a pickle, just wanna ride my motor sickle  [img width=300 height=233]http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/
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Red Diamond
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« Reply #6 on: May 16, 2010, 08:38:28 AM » |
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I'll agree, maybe not much wrong, but a complete rebuild would probably be in order. Kind of like a car or truck being driven daily to work in commute traffic versus one that is driven highway miles. What I learned from the MSF course was this. The front brakes are applied first, then the back brakes. When this happens, it lightens the load on the rear of the bike on hard stopping. It takes less effort to lock the rear wheels than the front, hence the 80 percent braking in the front, as the front of the bike gets heavier. If you lock the front, it is "OK" to let go and re-apply the brakes. Don't do this if you lock the rear brakes, just keep them locked and ride it out. If you let go of the rear brake after you have locked it up, it will high-side you, probably off the bike, depending on how fast you are going. When the rear is locked up, the bike will start to slide to the right or left, around toward the front end, going into a spin, when you let go of the rear brake, the tire will re-grip the road surface and vialantly straighten the rear of the bike, not pretty. I have intentionally done this to my bike and it is not a good feeling. Don't try it at a high speed. Hope this helps someone in the future. Highside== You are thrown in front of the bike and it will run you over..............
Ride safely. If you haven't, take a MSF course.
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 If you are riding and it is a must that you keep your eyes on the road, you are riding too fast.
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Patrick
Member
    
Posts: 15433
VRCC 4474
Largo Florida
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« Reply #7 on: May 16, 2010, 08:47:47 AM » |
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It kinda sorta sounds like you still have air in the system.. When your bleeding, do not release the lever until the bleeder is closed.. Then pump the lever a few times, hold it down, open the bleeder a bit, close the bleeder, and do it again and again and again..
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FryeVRCCDS0067
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« Reply #8 on: May 16, 2010, 09:34:56 AM » |
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It kinda sorta sounds like you still have air in the system.. When your bleeding, do not release the lever until the bleeder is closed.. Then pump the lever a few times, hold it down, open the bleeder a bit, close the bleeder, and do it again and again and again..
Agree.
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"Extremism in the defense of liberty is no vice. And... moderation in the pursuit of justice is no virtue.'' -- Barry Goldwater, Acceptance Speech at the Republican Convention; 1964 
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1FAST6
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« Reply #9 on: May 16, 2010, 02:26:28 PM » |
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Good point on the air in the lines. I check for air by letting it sit for a few minutes then fully depressing the pedal. Note how far down it goes. Then pump it several times and fully depress again. Compare to the initial position. If it comes up any on the second try, you still got air.
Where in NC are you? I'm in Sanford. If you want to ride this way sometime, I'll be glad to take a look with you.
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John U.
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« Reply #10 on: May 16, 2010, 05:09:40 PM » |
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I'll agree, maybe not much wrong, but a complete rebuild would probably be in order. Kind of like a car or truck being driven daily to work in commute traffic versus one that is driven highway miles. What I learned from the MSF course was this. The front brakes are applied first, then the back brakes. When this happens, it lightens the load on the rear of the bike on hard stopping. It takes less effort to lock the rear wheels than the front, hence the 80 percent braking in the front, as the front of the bike gets heavier. If you lock the front, it is "OK" to let go and re-apply the brakes. Don't do this if you lock the rear brakes, just keep them locked and ride it out. If you let go of the rear brake after you have locked it up, it will high-side you, probably off the bike, depending on how fast you are going. When the rear is locked up, the bike will start to slide to the right or left, around toward the front end, going into a spin, when you let go of the rear brake, the tire will re-grip the road surface and vialantly straighten the rear of the bike, not pretty. I have intentionally done this to my bike and it is not a good feeling. Don't try it at a high speed. Hope this helps someone in the future. Highside== You are thrown in front of the bike and it will run you over..............
Ride safely. If you haven't, take a MSF course.
Speaking frpm experience, I'll add one suggestion to Red Diamond's. If your rear tire begins to skid from over use of the rear brake, you better let up on the front brake or prepare to meet the pavement. If you let up on the rear, a high side is likely. If you are useing the front brake while the rear is skidding the bike will almost certainly go down. The rear will be overtaking the front unless the front brake is released.Which is all fine and dandy except you used the brakes hard to begin with to avoid running into someone or something. Letting up on the front brake will not help with stopping, which is why losing traction with the rear tire is not a good scenario.
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2 Many
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« Reply #11 on: May 16, 2010, 06:27:53 PM » |
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Good point on the air in the lines. I check for air by letting it sit for a few minutes then fully depressing the pedal. Note how far down it goes. Then pump it several times and fully depress again. Compare to the initial position. If it comes up any on the second try, you still got air.
Where in NC are you? I'm in Sanford. If you want to ride this way sometime, I'll be glad to take a look with you.
I am over in the Greenville area. May look you up soon. 
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How many bikes are enough?
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valkyriemc
Member
    
Posts: 392
2000 blu/slvr Interstate, 2018 Ultra Limited
NE Florida
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« Reply #12 on: May 17, 2010, 08:04:17 AM » |
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I'll agree, maybe not much wrong, but a complete rebuild would probably be in order. Kind of like a car or truck being driven daily to work in commute traffic versus one that is driven highway miles. What I learned from the MSF course was this. The front brakes are applied first, then the back brakes. When this happens, it lightens the load on the rear of the bike on hard stopping. It takes less effort to lock the rear wheels than the front, hence the 80 percent braking in the front, as the front of the bike gets heavier. If you lock the front, it is "OK" to let go and re-apply the brakes. Don't do this if you lock the rear brakes, just keep them locked and ride it out. If you let go of the rear brake after you have locked it up, it will high-side you, probably off the bike, depending on how fast you are going. When the rear is locked up, the bike will start to slide to the right or left, around toward the front end, going into a spin, when you let go of the rear brake, the tire will re-grip the road surface and vialantly straighten the rear of the bike, not pretty. I have intentionally done this to my bike and it is not a good feeling. Don't try it at a high speed. Hope this helps someone in the future. Highside== You are thrown in front of the bike and it will run you over..............
Ride safely. If you haven't, take a MSF course.
Speaking frpm experience, I'll add one suggestion to Red Diamond's. If your rear tire begins to skid from over use of the rear brake, you better let up on the front brake or prepare to meet the pavement. If you let up on the rear, a high side is likely. If you are useing the front brake while the rear is skidding the bike will almost certainly go down. The rear will be overtaking the front unless the front brake is released.Which is all fine and dandy except you used the brakes hard to begin with to avoid running into someone or something. Letting up on the front brake will not help with stopping, which is why losing traction with the rear tire is not a good scenario. I think whats in order, is some practice stopping runs. When I do it, like every few months, I start out by saying why bother? Then when I step up the speed and do the panic stops, I get "reglion" again. Then it's -wow this practice was a good idea..If you are sliding the rear tire you can let off but you have to be carefull. If it's sudden, you will "superman" I've seen it first hand, and its ugly. Best to know how much pressure to apply before that rear wheel starts skidding. Better yet- how fast can you stop using both brakes?...G/L
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« Last Edit: May 17, 2010, 08:06:51 AM by valkyriemc »
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Veteran USN '70-'76
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16783
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #13 on: May 17, 2010, 09:12:37 AM » |
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It is pretty easy to take the caliper off, take it apart, blow out the pistons with compressed air, put in (cheap) new seals and put it all back together. I wouldn't just change out that manky brown chewing tobacco spit and call it good... well, actually, I did just that when I first got my bike, and it came back to bite me... these pictures aren't all from the same bike/maintenance-shot, but they represent what could be lurking in there, no way to know unless you look...    This is the one I let go too far... good thing Pinwall has decent rebuildable calipers for less than $30...  The rear's can be pretty good if you give them some attention... -Mike
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1FAST6
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« Reply #14 on: May 17, 2010, 12:12:22 PM » |
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Greenville is only a few hours from me. Bring her over sometime, just drop me a line!
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gordonv
Member
    
Posts: 5763
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
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« Reply #15 on: May 19, 2010, 10:46:17 AM » |
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If you lock the front, it is "OK" to let go and re-apply the brakes. Don't do this if you lock the rear brakes, just keep them locked and ride it out. If you let go of the rear brake after you have locked it up, it will high-side you, probably off the bike, depending on how fast you are going. When the rear is locked up, the bike will start to slide to the right or left, around toward the front end, going into a spin, when you let go of the rear brake, the tire will re-grip the road surface and vialantly straighten the rear of the bike, not pretty. I have intentionally done this to my bike and it is not a good feeling. Don't try it at a high speed. Hope this helps someone in the future. Highside== You are thrown in front of the bike and it will run you over..............
Ride safely. If you haven't, take a MSF course.
I didn't know this, I'm very glad I read it. I don't think I've let the rear brake off before, except in a car. Something to keep in mind.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS  
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Patrick
Member
    
Posts: 15433
VRCC 4474
Largo Florida
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« Reply #16 on: May 20, 2010, 09:41:00 AM » |
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Well, since we haven't heard back from 2many, hopefully he is all fixed up and out riding.. Since his post was about breaks, I hope he didn't break his brakes while repairing them..
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2 Many
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« Reply #17 on: May 20, 2010, 06:40:23 PM » |
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Actually 1fast6 and myself are going to tear into a few things in a week or so.  Going to be busy this weekend and next weekend is a 4 day mountain trip on the VTX, but we'll have a report soon. Thanks for all the help. 
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How many bikes are enough?
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Mildew
Member
    
Posts: 464
Live, Not Just Exist
Auburn, Ga
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« Reply #18 on: May 21, 2010, 10:19:47 AM » |
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Sometimes it will work in your favor to have a brake that isn't that good. Expecially on wet roads. Lol
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Live, Not Just Exist
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