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Author Topic: SHELL ROTELLA REBATE  (Read 2987 times)
T.P.
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Posts: 1963


Apple Valley, Minnesota.


« on: May 24, 2010, 05:36:02 PM »

http://www-static.shell.com/static/rotella-en/downloads/promotions/2010_diy_mir.pdf    cooldude
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"Well you can call me T, or you can call me P, or you can call me T.P. but you doesn't hasta call me Toilet Paper"
Oss
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Posts: 12593


The lower Hudson Valley

Ossining NY Chapter Rep VRCCDS0141


WWW
« Reply #1 on: May 24, 2010, 07:57:48 PM »

the shell site says the blue jug is NOW energy conserving which I believe is NG for our bikes I dont know if this is compared to the old oil or just a new formula.

I will have to eyeball a gallon jug if I can ever find one again in my area. I just used my last gallon in the Valk last month.

Should have bought everything I saw last year while I had the chance.

so many choices..........
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Oyeaa
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Posts: 124



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« Reply #2 on: May 25, 2010, 02:10:36 PM »

the shell site says the blue jug is NOW energy conserving which I believe is NG for our bikes I dont know if this is compared to the old oil or just a new formula.

I will have to eyeball a gallon jug if I can ever find one again in my area. I just used my last gallon in the Valk last month.

Should have bought everything I saw last year while I had the chance.

so many choices..........



Hmm this is all I could find on the web site.  I searched for both "energy conserving"
and "friction modifiers"

http://www.shellusserver.com/qa/answerresult.php?rowid=206

Does ROTELLA contain friction modifiers?

ROTELLA T does not contain friction modifiers that are added to many passenger-car-only-oils, and it does not comply with all requirements of ILSAC GF-1, GF-2 and GF-3 (the ILSAC oil specifications are often recommended by many gasoline passenger car engine manufacturers).



Can heavy-duty diesel oil be used in motorcycles?

Motorcycle gasoline engines may not seem in the same league as the big displacement diesel engine under your hood, but they share some of the same lubrication requirements. So yes, in many cases, a premium heavy-duty universal oil capable of serving both diesel and gasoline engines is the best choice for your bike.

The high power-to-displacement ratio of a motorcycle engine means rod and main bearings are subjected to loads that are not normally found in passenger car engines. The valve train is also highly loaded, and requires extreme pressure boundary lubrication. The same can be said about gears in the transmission, which are normally lubricated by engine oil. Oil additives containing phosphorus protect these highly loaded extreme pressure areas (in both gasoline and diesel engines). Because diesel engines have higher loading of components, more of the phosphorus-containing additive is present than in typical passenger car oils. And with advanced catalyst systems for gasoline engines, the phosphorus content has been declining in passenger car oils.

Since many bike engines are air-cooled, and tend to be operated at high power outputs and speeds, their lubricating oil needs to be more resistant to high temperature oxidation. That?s another advantage of a premium universal oil. Another thing you want in your motorcycle is oil that has excellent viscosity control, so that with use it retains high temperature viscosity. Some multiviscosity grade passenger car oils, subjected to extreme loads, can quickly thin out. Their viscosity can drop to the next lower grade.

One last thing to consider is whether oil contains friction modifier additives. For improved fuel economy, most passenger car oils have such an additive. But the wet clutch in your bike doesn?t perform right with friction modifiers. Universal engine oils don?t have friction modifiers.

Be careful choosing diesel oils. Not all of them are universal. In addition to the API Service Category CI-4 PLUS for diesels, look for API Service Category SL.

Premium universal oils like Shell ROTELLA? T Multigrade are formulated for heavy-duty performance, and your bike engine has some heavy-duty challenges for oil. For optimum performance, be sure your oil is up to the challenge.


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MP
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Posts: 5532


1997 Std Valkyrie and 2001 red/blk I/S w/sidecar

North Dakota


« Reply #3 on: May 25, 2010, 04:10:49 PM »

I just put in a gallon today.  did not say EC.  I looked.

MP
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"Ridin' with Cycho"
big turkey
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« Reply #4 on: May 25, 2010, 06:22:29 PM »

Smokin Joe  , Lucky 13,, Smooth Rider all run Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40.

It works very well in thier bikes and they run them to the extremes, much much harder than

anyone I know including me.

The Jug states it runs out in the engine like 15W-40 as it warms to operating temperature.

Gordon for God's Sake wheelies his interstate on a regular basis. No clutch problems for any of the

three mentioned and they stack up major mileage, Joe probably at least 30,000 miles a year, could

be more.

Rotella T synthetic is the bomb for these and others.

Harley says if you are on the road to run a Diesel Grade Oil in thier Cycles as well.



So diesel grade must have something car oils don't . But you can run diesel grade in a car . And

Motorcycles. I also notied that the Rotella  T Syn. has the JASO requirement filled and that is what the Japanese Car makers have as a requirement as well.

I run the Name Brand for each of my bikes, such as Kawasaki in guess what the Kawasaki and so on.


But I run Dino Oil in all of mine, i have my reasons as we all do for the oil we prefer.
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big turkey
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« Reply #5 on: May 25, 2010, 06:53:22 PM »

Lucky 13 paid $18.95 for a gallon and that will do for a oil change, he also uses the filter that Wally World sells.



Can't recall the filter number though.

That's $4.73 per quart plus tax.

For synthetic oil.

The oil I buy at the Dealer Runs anywhere from 5 to 6 dollars per quart. DINO OIL.

So he is getiing the cheaper oil change between us.

Extending your oil drain and fill sessions is not a good idea even with synthetic.

The lubrication package breaks down with pollutants, mainly Carbon and Water , forms sludge.

This will stop up a Harley's rubber lines assuming you have a model that has them still and

\stop lubrication at that point.

To keep your engine clean and running top notch you don't want sludge in your engine

if for no other reason it will cause poor heat tranfer to the coolant from the combustion

process. Causing your motor to run hotter and less efficiantly.

So that should tell you not to run past reccomended oil change intervals.

Another tip to keep your engine cleaner is to warm it up before the drain and fill.

i usually run my engines for over a hundred miles ,like after a long trip,

as I get home I let the exhaust cool and then start the oil change.

My engines should theoretically be the cleanest around by doing this simple action.

Food for thought.

Big AL
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