Rubber FM/AM Radio Antenna

[R]

I looking for a rubber fm/am antenna that will fit my Valkyrie Interstate HELP.   

[Ricky-D]

I got mine from Autozone and tapped it to fit the stud on the Honda base. It was less that 10 bucks.

[PharmBoy]

I put this one on my I/S last fall.  Bought it at Autozone for about $8.  Works as well or better than that monster that came on it.




If you are interested, I wrote a little bit about just how I mounted it!

[R]

Yes Please send me your info. Thank You R

[bjsvalk]

 looks good, i would like the info on how you ounted it, i also have the cb on my 99 interstate and would lke to change it out also

[semo97]

please send info on how you mounted it
thanks

[Big Rig]

Ditto...

[PharmBoy]

I think that I have sent the info to everyone that requested it.  It was either sent by email or to My Messages here at VRCC.  If you didn't get it at either place, send me an email, the address is posted...JTL

[semo97]

Pharmboy, got the email with instructions, thank you
semo97

[bjsvalk]

 thanks also pharmboy got the e-mail. I printed it off and took me a little it to get it pctured in my head but I got it completed today allbut the brass rivet, I checked everywhere I thought of and cant find rivets in brass. i did find a brass screw at Lowes and it fit snug I am going to cut it to fit and brad on tomorrow. It seemed to pickup the same as the OEM antenna also. Now I am curious on trying to match one to the cb side, that would greatly improve the look. I will let you know how that turns out."Anyone out there do a switch on the CB antenna?" Also I will try to post pics of this.Thanks again for the info.

[2qmedic]

That antenna looks good, did you have a CB and use it for that also? Could you please send the conversion procedures that you used?
thanks in advance,
Charles

[PharmBoy]

No, I do not have a CB, but I know that some companies do make short antennas.  I think that I will post the procedure here.  It is long and detailed and written to B.J., but maybe it will be of benefit to some others...JTL

B.J., it is easy to do if you have the right supplies and a few tools, but it is hard to explain.  I'll try.  First, I took the antennae mount off the bar (2 bolts), then disconnected the antennae wire(unscrew from the bottom).  Now that it is off the bike, unscrew the keeper on top that lets the antennae tip over.  Inside there is a 1/8" pin that the OEM antenna hinges on.  Drive out that pin to disconnect the long antenna.  Now I am assuming that you have purchased the same antenna that I posted a picture of with name & number.  Disassemble that antenna.  Inside you will find a little rod with a spring that slips over it.  One end of that little rod needs to be shaped the exact same size as the end of the OEM antenna, except the end should be left SQUARE instead of rounded like the OEM antenna.  That little rod needs to go back in the slot where the end of the long antenna was attached by the 1/8" pin.  When you file it down where it fits tightly in the bottom of that slot without any slop on the sides, then clamp it down while fitting all the way against the bottom of the slot and drill a 1/8" hole through it using the existing holes in the female piece as a guide.  A good fit with the file and the drill is what keeps the new antenna from wobbling at the base.  Now, you will have to calculate how much to cut off the other end of this rod because I do not remember.  The rod needs to be long enough to support the spring, yet not too long to keep the new antenna from bottoming on the base where the OEM antenna keeper screwed on.  I believe that I determined the amount to cut off the other end of the little rod by putting the new antenna over he little rod while shoved to the bottom of the slot and measuring the distance from the bottom of the new antenna to where it should fit on the OEM base.  Then add another 1/8" or so and cut that amount off the little rod.  Also file or grind off the sharp edges of the little rod after cutting it off so the spring won't get hung on them.  The spring must be placed over the rod to conduct the signal from the inside of the new antenna to the antenna wire.  Now, you will need a 1/8" rivet that is at least 0.7" long.  A 1/8" piece of brazing rod cut to 0.7" will work fine. The 0.7" rivet must reach all the way through the base of the new antenna and be bradded (not now) with a small ball peen hammer(slowly).  Now you need to drill a hole in one side of the base of the new antenna exactly 0.3" up from the bottom of the base.  The size of this hole should be less than 1/8" because the plastic base of the new antenna needs to fit tightly around the 1/8" rivet on both sides.  A #35 drill (0.110") is ideal if you have one, can borrow one, or even buy one.  Now, with the hole drilled in one side of the base of the new antenna, place it over the OEM base and using the existing holes in the slotted OEM base, run the drill bit through those holes and drill a hole in the other side of the new antenna base.   Now all that is left to do is assemble all this at once.  Sounds easy, but an extra hand or two really helps.  I put just the smallest amount of J B Weld on the inside of the new antenna base to make sure that it fit well. Put the short rod in the slot with the holes lined up (if you made it a tight fit, it  will stay) slip the spring over the rod and push the new antenna down on the base with all the holes lined up and push the 1/8" brass rivet through all the holes that you have drilled, from one side to the other.  You might now temporarily hook up the antenna wire and check to make sure that you are getting a signal to the radio while you can still get it apart.  If it works, remove the antenna wire and gently brad the rivet on both sides with a small ball peen hammer working on one side and then the other until it has been spread enough that it will not come out from either side.  A little dab of black paint on each end of the rivet and you are ready to reconnect the antenna wire and mount your new antenna on your bike.  Before I went to all this trouble, with the bike in the garage, I tuned in a marginal FM station and switched antenna signals back and forth between the new antenna and the OEM antenna.  The short antenna gave the best signal by the slightest of margins.  My neighbor was there at the time and he concurred with my opinion.  Yes, I could have had your new antenna on your bike in less time than it has taken to write up the procedure.  However, it sure took a lot of thinking before I figured out how to put mine on.  B.J. I hope that this helps.  Oh yes, if you use any JB Weld, use only the smallest amount, because too much could short out the signal.  Also, if you have or can borrow a dial caliper, it sure helps in making accurate measurements.  Send me a picture!...Jim Lynch   (A 1/8" brazing rod or aluminum rod makes a good rivet when cut to length)

[bjsvalk]

 i finished today and really like it, and also did a little test and placed it on the cb side. I went over to a friends and he sat on his I/S and i went down the road and we did a check of the 2 different antennas; once with the oem CB and once with the rubber that i had fixed for the AM/FM. Surprisingly i only lost about 2 blocks in distance with the rubber one. I figure since i only use the CB on trips with buddies that have CBs also that i could survive wth that loss. Even though i am going to be on the lok out for an actual rubber CB antenna i am going to do the change for it also. We are headed to Key West Sunday and then into Panama City for Thunder Beach so it will get a good test then. Also i found the same antenna at AutoZone under part #AT-RM1R made by the same company as the one PharmBoy shows in his picture for $5.99.

[bjsvalk]

sorry that was ADVANCE AUTO PARTS STORE where i found the AT-RM1 antenna. 

[Scott from FL, now in Maine]

You should not use a regular AM/FM antenna for a CB!! That antenna is for receiving only. A CB antenna is built for receiving and tranmitting.  CB antenna's either have a fixed resistance setting or adjustable one.  A regular antenna can cause CB troubles and many aren't protected from grounding on the frame. No problem for your AM/FM radio, but potential radio killer for your CB.  I have also been told that even with out grounding to the frame, the AM/FM antenna has the potetial to blow the CB radio.

Check out this link.
http://www.firestik.com/Meas-SWR.htm

[bjsvalk]

 Thanks Scott,  :)after I posted that I did some research and mostly  said the same thing.  :(The test that I did yesterday the mike was only keyed 3 or 4 times so it shouldnt be hurt. I got on here this morning to report i wasnt using it but thanks again for the heads up. I still will be looking for a CB replacement.

[henry 008]

hey pharmboy, would you send me those instructions as well? i shot you an email (tried to anyway) yesterday and i picked up an AWRM1R antenna today. TIA!

[bjsvalk]

  I stoped at O'Riellys on the way home today ,still looking fro a CB replacement ant. and they have the above rubber antenna pictured (same exact package) for $3.99 if anyone is still looking for one. Also anyone have an idea how to hook up a SWR meter to the Valk ant. the coax is the same as the regular am/fm ant. not like a normal CB coax and I have a meter but cant even check the original ant.

[Scott from FL, now in Maine]

I really have no clue Bjsvalk, but I would think you could get adapters at Radio Shack. Just a thought 

[bjsvalk]

 http://www.angelfire.com/ok4/wingman26/cables.html
this is a site that tells how to check/set the SWR on a Gold Wing which has the same type coax. The 3 adapters cost a total of $15.00. One of my co-workers is bringing me a meter tomorrow so I am going to pick these up and check mine. Still on the hunt :roll:for a short one that will work to match the AM/FM conversion. It really would improve the look, I really dont like the "flag poles" looks of the OEM. I am also going to check out my brothers Harley (when he can catch me ) he has changed his to a short style.

[Bagger John - #3785]

I stoped at O'Riellys on the way home today ,still looking fro a CB replacement ant. and they have the above rubber antenna pictured (same exact package) for $3.99 if anyone is still looking for one. Also anyone have an idea how to hook up a SWR meter to the Valk ant. the coax is the same as the regular am/fm ant. not like a normal CB coax and I have a meter but cant even check the original ant.

You need a Motorola to SO239 adapter:



And a Motorola female to BNC for connecting to the antenna:



A BNC to PL259 for connecting the antenna adapter to the SWR meter:



And a double PL259 for connecting the radio output to the other side of the SWR meter:

[Bagger John - #3785]

You should not use a regular AM/FM antenna for a CB!! That antenna is for receiving only. A CB antenna is built for receiving and tranmitting.

Actually, you can...if you use what is known as a matching network. The old GL1100/GL1200 Hondaline antennas will work with a minimum of tuning; one may employ a splitter and use a single antenna for both purposes:

CB antenna's either have a fixed resistance setting or adjustable one.

The term you're looking for here is impedance, and that's partly dependent on its length. Antennas with no adjustment means can by physically trimmed if they're too long, and all of the loaded 'Wing/Valkyrie antennas incorporate an adjustment mechanism...by means of a pair of set screws which clamp the top whip section in place.

Of course, you need to have some way of determining your starting VSWR and antenna resonant frequency BEFORE you begin cutting. An antenna analyzer helps greatly in this regard.

Befriend an area ham operator who has one. Buy the person a case of his or her favorite beverage for helping you out.

A regular antenna can cause CB troubles and many aren't protected from grounding on the frame.

Any series-fed whip or loaded antenna is fine for use on a Valkyrie I/S...provided you ensure a mechanically sound mount which emulates the functionality of the Hondaline threaded base. The mounting arm and the chassis/frame/engine form the ground plane. This assumes, of course, that the antenna can be trimmed to resonance - or matched via series or shunt-feed matching network; preferably at the antenna base/coax connection point.

No problem for your AM/FM radio, but potential radio killer for your CB.  I have also been told that even with out grounding to the frame, the AM/FM antenna has the potetial to blow the CB radio.

See above. Again, Honda's design is series-fed and only the shield of the coax is at chassis ground. The whip itself is "hot" and is not grounded with this type of feed.

Some of the rubber AM/FM antennas mentioned earlier in the thread MAY work for CB use, but even with a 1:1 match the radiation efficiency is going to be way, way down. Best way to run a CB on one of these bikes is to use an OEM Hondaline CB antenna or modify the mounts to work with a Firestik or similar 1/4w, helically loaded whip which is at least 3ft long. Radiation resistance will be low and much of the power will be radiated...instead of dissipated as heat in the antenna.

[Bagger John - #3785]

And now...for the "rest of the story":

I have been looking around for a while to see if I could find an easy way to adapt an SO-239 based Diamond/Comet triband ham radio antenna to my I/S and to Blondie's 'TourerState' (Tourer with an I/S trunk and antenna mounts). The problem lies in that darned 8MM male stud arrangement which Honda/Clarion seems to be in love with. No one offers commercially an adapter, and I was even thinking about fabricating a new antenna arm with a Diamond SO-239 mount in place of the OEM setup.

Earlier this evening I was playing around with my junk box full of connectors and a spare GL1200 'Wing OEM antenna arm...and I observed that the nylon washer and stud of one of these:



Will fit into the mounting barrel of one of these, being locked into place by the pictured coupler nut. The nut on mine was rounded; not hex...so it had adequate clearance on the inside of the "barrel":



And a second SO239-stud-washer setup can be screwed into the bottom, locking the works together and enabling one to feed the antenna with a PL259-equipped cable.

The barrel on the mounting arm is exactly the same as the one used on the I/S' Hondaline AM-FM and CB antenna mounts.

I am going to use the modified setup with a Diamond 2/220/440 foldover antenna:



When the antenna is on the bike, I am going to check the SWR on the two upper bands and see if the coupling nut adds too much capacitance to the circuit by virtue of its diameter to that of the inner diameter of the "barrel" mount. If it does I'll trim the nut down on a lathe until I can get a good match.

I'll take a few pics of the finished setup and post them if anyone is interested.

[PharmBoy]

The instructions that I sent B.J. are posted in this thread back on page 1.  I hope that they help...JTL

[Bagger John - #3785]

The instructions that I sent B.J. are posted in this thread back on page 1.  I hope that they help...JTL

I read your post...and wish that I could have modded the base of one of my Clarion antennas to work with my ham antennas. Alas, the latter's bases utilize some internal matching circuitry, so the easier of the options was ruled out ... 

[Scott from FL, now in Maine]

Good info Bagger  just one point I would like to add.

Actually, you can...if you use what is known as a matching network. The old GL1100/GL1200 Hondaline antennas will work with a minimum of tuning; one may employ a splitter and use a single antenna for both purposes

An antenna used in a matching network is actually a CB antenna that is also used for AM/FM. The reverse, AM/FM used for BB is still a bad idea.

[Bagger John - #3785]

Good info Bagger  just one point I would like to add.

Actually, you can...if you use what is known as a matching network. The old GL1100/GL1200 Hondaline antennas will work with a minimum of tuning; one may employ a splitter and use a single antenna for both purposes

An antenna used in a matching network is actually a CB antenna that is also used for AM/FM. The reverse, AM/FM used for BB is still a bad idea.

How so?

If you can get a 1:1 match and the antenna's radiation resistance is sufficiently low enough (and the field strength high...) it'll work fine.

But most of the shortened "duck"-style (rubber, spirally wound) BCB antennas are not much more efficient than a dummy load!

That's the entire reason why I went down the path I did when building the mounts for my ham antennas. Here's a pic of one type of our VHF rigs, along with factory-supplied "ducks":



And those antennas stink, but not because they don't present a good (50 ohm) match to the transmitter. Most of the power input to them is dissipated as heat in their coiled element's windings.

The old saw "bigger is better" definitely applies to antennas...up to a point.