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Author Topic: sorry for the review, Left Rear Wheel bearing problem  (Read 1796 times)
dennis_obryan1965@msn.com
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Posts: 35


« on: May 31, 2010, 05:10:32 PM »

I posted this once before and putting it out there again,  one last time before I put the Ole girl back together. Hoping to hear from someone with similar problem.

97 Tour
4-5 different left rear bearings and 2 different rear wheels in 76000 mi..

I think my problem was mechanic error. I had always had a Honda Mech to do the work and not the same one. I am doing it myself this time hopefully with better results.
*Spacer is in,  2 different wheels with 2 different spacers.
*Have had bearing repacked and and then bearings not repacked.
*In the beginning I didn't use proper torque.
*And then I used proper torque.
All of this with the same result getting only 3-4 grand out of each Bearing.
This will be the first time I install the bearing myself.
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Red Diamond
Member
*****
Posts: 2245


Beaumont, Texas


« Reply #1 on: May 31, 2010, 05:39:55 PM »

I posted this once before and putting it out there again,  one last time before I put the Ole girl back together. Hoping to hear from someone with similar problem.

97 Tour
4-5 different left rear bearings and 2 different rear wheels in 76000 mi..

I think my problem was mechanic error. I had always had a Honda Mech to do the work and not the same one. I am doing it myself this time hopefully with better results.
*Spacer is in,  2 different wheels with 2 different spacers.
*Have had bearing repacked and and then bearings not repacked.
*In the beginning I didn't use proper torque.
*And then I used proper torque.
All of this with the same result getting only 3-4 grand out of each Bearing.
This will be the first time I install the bearing myself.
What do you mean by "bearings packed and bearings not repacked?
            What is your diffinition of proper torque?
             Did you use OEM bearings or some other brand of aftermarket bearings?
             Did you torque the wheel nut with the 4 bolts that secure the final drive to the swing
             arn loose? Not being nosy, but answer these questions and you will probably get more response and help.
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If you are riding  and it is a must that you keep your eyes on the road, you are riding too fast.
daytona
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Posts: 209


Port Orange, FL


« Reply #2 on: May 31, 2010, 05:49:13 PM »

If the wheel turns free with no binding, drag, or side to side play after! what else could be wrong! Do the old ones come out as a pile of pcs or rusty dust? Even though there isn't a brg made in the US anymore! there are quality brgs better than OEM offers. FAG is just one.
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Just started!
John U.
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Posts: 1085


Southern Delaware


« Reply #3 on: May 31, 2010, 05:52:13 PM »

What method did you use to seat the bearing?
How much torque on the axle nut?
Was antisieze used on the axle threads?
Is the wheel chromed or powder coated?
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dennis_obryan1965@msn.com
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Posts: 35


« Reply #4 on: June 01, 2010, 04:28:02 AM »

* I am talking about the rear left side bearing on my 97 Tour
*The wheels are stock no powder coating no Chrome.
*The Bad bearings come out with no rust in one piece,
*The spacer is in the wheel, I will be replacing it this time with a new one, I didnt like the looks of the old one .
*They are OEM Bearings.
*Up until now I have never done the work myself.
*When the Honda Mechanic done the work and there has been two different shops do the work, the last one  assured me that rear axle nut was properly torqued. He was also removing the cover from the seal and repacking the bearing with grease. I have had them installed both ways, repacked and not repacked. 
* I have had bearings go bad in two different rear wheels on this same 97 Tour. A total of 4 bearings in the first wheel and this will be the 1st replacement bearing in 2nd wheel.
I hope I have covered everything.

No matter what I do I get the same result "BEARING FAILURE"
I will be doing all the work myself this time with hopes and prayers of a different result.

Thank You for your time and concern
Dennis (Bikers For Christ Motor Cycle Ministry) www.bfcohio.org
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dennis_obryan1965@msn.com
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Posts: 35


« Reply #5 on: June 01, 2010, 04:37:02 AM »

Also
No anti seize was used on Threads.
Don't know what was torqued first the 4 bolts or Axel nut .
Don't know what method was used to seat the bearings.
Do not know the amount of torque they used. I installed the wheel once myself and torqued the axle nut according to the specs in my clymer book. I don't remember what it was.
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AussieValk
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Posts: 121


Gold Coast, Australia


« Reply #6 on: June 01, 2010, 04:49:22 AM »

OEM bearing is sealed, so possibly it was a different bearing used if it was repacked. Just replaced my left one with the OEM as the old one fell apart, literally, and I doubt that was OEM. I reckon if you do it yourself the right way you'll find it will last longer. Doesn't sound like the previous mechanic really knew what he was about. I don't trust the Honda mechanics here as most of them aren't formally trained and I haven't met one that seems to know that much.
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RTaz
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Posts: 1319


Michigan...Home of InZane X -XI

Oscoda, Michigan


« Reply #7 on: June 01, 2010, 04:54:57 AM »

...the wheel bearings are a sealed bearing, hence "no packing of bearings" the bearings should be seated all the way in wheel and a new seal should be used...maybe your problem has been an un-sealed bearing
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 RTaz
Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #8 on: June 01, 2010, 05:32:45 AM »

The problem theme throughout everything is the assembly process.

Whether it be performed by others or by you, the assembly process is faulty and the problem will continue until the assembly process is performed properly!

The manual can only go so far in helping instill knowledge and it does assume there is a modicum of mechanical ability and education.

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
Madmike
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Posts: 837


Campbell River BC, Canada


« Reply #9 on: June 01, 2010, 09:46:12 PM »

you may want to check the length of the spacer compared to the distance between the bearing seats in the hub...

...also that the surface that the outer race lands against is free of burrs etc.

other than that I agree with Ricky D in that as a general statement a lot of bearing failures are directly attributable to improper installation procedures.
« Last Edit: June 01, 2010, 09:51:43 PM by Madmike » Logged
KY,Dave (AKA Misunderstood)
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Posts: 4146


Specimen #30838 DS #0233

Williamsburg, KY


« Reply #10 on: June 02, 2010, 02:19:58 AM »

Another possibility is he got a used bike that had the spacer trimmed so as to use the same size bearing on both sides and he is using the stock sizes. That would leave the spacer being to short/small for the application. I would just do the work myself to insure ALL procedures are done properly.
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R J
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Posts: 13380


DS-0009 ...... # 173

Des Moines, IA


« Reply #11 on: June 02, 2010, 03:30:46 AM »

Improper installaion.

You have to have a little bit of mechanical know how to work on any vehicle with wheels.

I have 242,000 + miles on my 97 and I'm only on the 3rd rear wheel bearings.  That is the originals and 2 sets.   That figures out to 81,000 miles per set.

Have you ever worked on auto or pickup up wheel bearings?  If so, you should know if ya have it too damn tight.    Being too tight is what is causing your failure........

I tighten up the axle nut to torque and usually have to back it off some to get a free rolling wheel.   If there is any stiffness in the rotation of the rear wheel, it is toooooooooo firkin tight........   Just like the old brake drum on the front wheel of a car.    If it rolled tight, ya backed the nut off and then stuck a key in it.....  Well, da rear wheel can be backed off a little also but not far enought to have to have a key.   A lot of mechanic work is by feel.   Read your manual and then use it for reference, not BIBLE.............
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MP
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Posts: 5532


1997 Std Valkyrie and 2001 red/blk I/S w/sidecar

North Dakota


« Reply #12 on: June 02, 2010, 07:57:44 PM »

The inner spacer is NOT trimmed to use two RH bearings.  The left OUTER spacer is trimmed.  So, would have no effect.  If the outer had been trimmed, he would have a big gap.

MP
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"Ridin' with Cycho"
alph
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Posts: 5513


Eau Claire, WI.


« Reply #13 on: June 03, 2010, 02:35:17 AM »

when you install the new bearings, do not wack on the inner race.  if you can, get a pipe that is the same diamiter as the outer edge of your bearing and use that to push in your bearing.  putting any presure on the inner race will reck the bearing, or at least shorten it's life.  here at work i'll bust out the center race of the old bearing and use the outer chace to line up with the new bearing then press it in with a bar across the old chace, that way there is no presure on the inner "ring".
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