gl1000 goldwing starting problem

[joefromperry]

This board has helped with my valk questions, so I hope you can help with my Wing problem, too.
My son and I are working on an original 1975 wing that didn't run well. We're on the home stretch, we feel, but hit a new problem. After rebuilding carbs, adjusting valves, points, etc., putting new plugs and wire caps on, new exhaust, etc., we tried to start it. It started briefly, sounding pretty smooth, then died out. Since then, when we try to start it, as long as the starter button is held in, it begins to start up, firing fine, but as soon as the button is released, it dies. I've double, triple, and fourple checked the wiring connections, making sure like colors are matched. The starter and kill switch on the handlebar have been replaced also. I checked the four wire connections from there, too. The fact that it started once tells me the wiring must have been okay, and a new problem developed. Hopefully someone can point me in a direction here. Thanks.

[John Schmidt]

There should be a ballast resistor up by the coils, we used to jump that so we had a full twelve volts for ignition all the time instead of just when starting. That resistor is jumped when starting, then put back in the circuit when you let off the start button. If the resistor is bad or has a loose connection, that would explain one possibility based on your description. Just an idea to begin with anyway.

[JimC]

Joe,
I can't help you  myself, but I have heard the same question asked on the GW board. I have had several gl1000's (still have one) and I read that board regularly. They are a great bunch, very similar to the VRCC board.
 http://www.ngwclub.com/

Jim

[joefromperry]

Thanks John and Jim. I'll jump the resistor tomorrow and see if it works. Jim, I also posted this on the GWRRA tech board, but so far no help. Thanks. I'll keep you posted.

[JimC]

Joe,
The GWRRA board is pretty active, but most (generalizing here) are more interested in where the next custard stand is than how to work on their bike.

The Naked Goldwing Board is for people that work on their own bikes because the stealers will not touch them. Plus, it is made up of mainly the first and second generation wing owners....
Good luck,
Jim

[joefromperry]

I hear you, Jim. I actually had forgotten about NGW; thanks for the reminder. I've been there before when working on other old wings, along with Randak's site. The gwrra tech board also suggested the ballast resistor. I'll head out to work on it after I finish my coffee. Thanks, again.

[BigMac NJ]

Joe,

Have you tired this site yet?

http://www.randakks.com/

Bigmac NJ

[tybme]

You can also try goldwingfacts.com - allot of knowledgeable friendly people on that board.

[joefromperry]

I pulled the coils out, checked the resistor with an ohmmeter - was okay. I carefully put all wire connectors back together using a little dielectric grease, and it started right up. I saw nothing obviously wrong, but I'll take it. Thanks for all the suggestions.

[F6Dave]

I second the suggestion to try the goldwingfacts.com site (also known as Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums).  Excellent site!

[gordonv]

I'm also on goldwingdocs.com for my GL1100 Aspencade. Not much traffice, but the owner of the site also has a 1100 so replies are fairly quick for me (24 hrs).

[John Schmidt]

I pulled the coils out, checked the resistor with an ohmmeter - was okay. I carefully put all wire connectors back together using a little dielectric grease, and it started right up. I saw nothing obviously wrong, but I'll take it. Thanks for all the suggestions.

The connections on the resistor are known for being loose at their mount. Actually, I took the resistor out of the circuit completely, gives you better/stronger ignition spark by using a full 12v. I later changed over to solid state in place of the points and condensor, didn't have to worry about setting the points all the time. Also installed Accel coils and plug wires since the old ones were pretty soft anyway. It made all the difference in how it ran.

[joefromperry]

Thanks, John. I'm interested in how you got rid of the points; is there a specific brand of electronic ignition you found that works well. I'd like to look into it.

[John Schmidt]

Thanks, John. I'm interested in how you got rid of the points; is there a specific brand of electronic ignition you found that works well. I'd like to look into it.

That was a few years ago so your best bet would be to post that question on one of the "boards" mentioned above. It was a simple conversion and mounted in the same spot the points were previously. It may well have been produced by Accel also but just don't recall. To top it off, I got one of the last available single carb conversion kits made by a shop located here in central Florida. They're no longer in business, but it got rid of the PITA carbs the early 1000's came with and mounted a single barrel Holly on it. It took some tweaking to get it set up, but turned that thing into a screamer along with the other changes I had done. It easily would have dusted my Valk on a 0-90 mph race. After that, the big inches of the Valk would come into play.

[Dirty Dave]

Dyna S   by Dynatek. ModelDS1-3. Good stuff.

[Sodbuster]

Do yourself a favor and join NakedGoldWings forum ... it's FREE.  They have people on there that are very knowledgeable and will walk you thru any problem with your old girl. If fact I'm still a moderator over there but haven't visited much since I sold my '83 Wing and bought the Valk.

[joefromperry]

Thanks for the suggestions. I'm looking at the Dynatek module, and I'll definitely join the NakedGoldwing forums.