Air Box Removal

[rmrc51]

While I wait for my new IS tank to arrive and then be painted, I thought it would be a good time to remove the air box and replace a few hoses.

The manual mentions something about removing a coil? If any of you have a picture reference as to what they're talking about and how to remove the air box I'd really appreciate it. Pictures can say 1000 words.

Thanks in advance. 

[MP]

I just took mine out.  No coil to remove.
MP

[rmrc51]

Did you just loosen the air tubes going to each cylinder and lift it out?

[MP]

Yes.  It comes out hard.  There are also two small lines to disconnect.  The drain line, and a line to the pair valve.  I did a desmog at the same time.  Removed the pair valve.  I just plugged my lines with bolts though, and left the pipes on.
MP

[rmrc51]

Hate to sound like a real novice, (but I am).

I get the jist of what you're saying regarding a 'DESMOG'. What does doing this do for you? Should I consider the same thing while the box is out?

And again,, if anyone has some pictures out there or a link to one of those photo instruction, I'd appreciate it. Thanks for your patience.

[Tundra]

It's in the "shoptalk" section...with pics. I don't know how to get them here for you, although someone will see this and help you out.
Air Box Installation

"The problem is the six rubber tubes are splayed out wider than the frame rails, and most of us only have two hands to hold them in.  Tie one end of a length of string around the bottom of one end tube.  Now bend the first tube and the opposite one together and wrap the second a couple of times before bending the next pair together, working the string from tube to tube until all six tubes are "hog tied."  Insert your air box and loosen the string to allow the tubes to pop back in place.  At this point it might be helpful to use your ratchet tie down technique to help make the final connections to the carbs, but I managed without."
I have tried his method and it functioned very well. BTW I had never done this before. Thanks Griphon Rider!
 
With the rubber tubes tied up, it was very easy to slip the air box into the frame. 

After cutting the strings (in order to release the air box tubes), I used a ratchet tie down to pull the air box tightly against the mainifolds.  I also fastened the bolt at the back of the air box to the frame.
Notes: Everything went well and much easier than I had imagined. The next time that I will do this task, I will lubricate the tip of the air box tubes in order to ease their connection to the manifold.   Since it was hard and brittle, the sealant around the six rubber tubes on the exterior of the air box cracked.  I have been told that everything seals OK without any sealant. I therefore didn't do anything about it and installed as is.

Hats Off to Þrúðr  For patiently answering my numerous air box questions.
 

[rmrc51]

Thanks for all in the info!! 

[Zorba]

You can "zip tie" the six tubes on the air box 2 at a time together , zip tie each one to the one across from it then when you drop the box back in take a snips and cut the zip ties and pull them out with a needle nose pliers! You can find a video on You tube of this being done, type in Valkryie or Valkryie air box i think!

[John U.]

It is a bit awkward getting the tubes to cooperate. I just squeezed the two forward ones together and started them throught the opening between frame rails, then the next two, etc. Though I guess some bikes in hot climates or with a lot of miles on them might have stiffer tubes  and be harder to manage.
Another pain can be connecting the tubes back up to the carbs. They can fold in at the back of the carb where it's hard to see (almost impossible without an inspection mirror). If the airbox resists settling back down where it belongs after all tubes are connected the problem is likely to be that one or more tubes are not seated properly.
A flashlight, mirror and some silicone spray helped, some have used a shorty screw driver to coax the tube the rest of the way, also having the bike raised will save your back.

[Ricky-D]

There are little protruding points molded into the rubber tubes that correspond to the notches cast into the airbox so when finally assembled onto the carburetors they are correctly positioned. Same kind of calibration on the carburetor end of the hoses (clamps) also.

If the glue that Honda used to glue the hoses to the airbox is no longer doing any good, just carefully clean off the goop and then use a silicone spay to help assembly and being able to rotate those rubber intake monsters is a big plus during assembly.

When using an aid like a silicone spray or the like, make sure that when you are tightening the clamps you are not extruding the rubber hose to a point where it wants to squeeze off the carburetor flange.

[DFragn]

Coil.
Yes it's easier if you remove the forward single coil over # 2 & #4  carbs on the left side of the frame under the tank.
The other 2 coils are pair mounted towards the rear of the tank. Leave those be, removing them will provide no help with the ins & outs of the airbox.

[Dag]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R3RgzDeriQ4

[rmrc51]

You guys are great!

Dag,,,,. Great Video!!!!!!!!!