Carb Synch (and a few other) questions

[Walküre]

History first - 2000 Standard, bought a month ago, 9200 miles on it, today it has 10,200. I went over it when I first got it, tightening bolts, etc, even though didn't find a single one loose - just one missing. checked all fluids, etc, etc. Not my first bike, probably 25th. STUPID, STUPID me, didn't check the air pressure, so cupped the rear, in the 25 miles to work. Glad I didn't drive it the 250 miles from Iowa...

The PO had the bike tuned and checked out, in very early 2009, from what the paperwork says, and he told me he did a "long trip" up to Michigan, etc, so I'm guessing 1000+ miles. Then it sat until I bought it.

It had some VERY light bluing, when I got it. Started right up (no choke), idled, did everything exactly like it should for the first 7-800 miles I put on it, 35.5 mpg. Now, in the last 200 miles or so, it has begun to start right up, but die without revving, for a minute or so, as well as fail to idle for about that long. then it smooths out but I can see the tach jumping a tad bit, so I know, even warmed a bit, it ain't quite right. Also, the pipes are bluing more than when I got it, which leads me to believe it's leaning out. Mileage is down to around 32 mpg, same riding conditions. Sound about right? Why would it suddenly start doing that? Any guesses? I don't know whether stuff is drying out, since it's such low mileage (had that on a 1000 Wing, once - had to rebuild the carbs), or what.

Anyway, I REALLY don't have time to work on it, right now, and it was my intention to ride, baby, ride, and work on it this winter - C/T on back, etc. But I really don't know how many Valk's the local dealer has worked on, and I'd hate to see it worse, than it is now. And charge an arm and a leg to do it!

I have experience with dual SU and Stromberg setups, but haven't ever done a six-pack of carbs. I'm not afraid, just don't want to put her down, until I can get to it - plus, the 15 mpg the truck gets, is stealing from the Valk!!  

Also, if I DO have to do it now, what suggestions as to what else I should do, can you all make? I have seen a few things on "de-smogging", but haven't seen much of an explanation, or the advantages/disadvantages...any guidance?

What else would you do??

Thanks, in advance!

Roger

[Ricky-D]

Well, bluing pipes are not from lean condition but rather from rich condition.

You are still having combustion in the pipes and that's what is turning them blue.

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[Walküre]

R-D - is this "exclusive" to the Valk? I've had a lot of bikes, and invariably it has been too lean, that caused the heat, that caused the bluing. I don't recall bluing on double-walled pipes, but don't recall having double-walled pipes...

I did find this, after your post, from another forum:

Gold and blue pipes result because the exhaust is running too hot. There are three reasons for this. The first, most common reason, is that the bike is running lean. A lean mixture causes exhaust temperature to rise very sharply. A slightly rich mix WILL NOT CAUSE BLUED OR YELLOWED PIPES.

However, a *VERY* rich mix can result in an extreme case of bluing. This happens when the mix is not completely burned in the combustion chamber, (either due to a too rich mix, malfunctioning coil, burned valve, improper timing, or whatnot) and rather ignites INSIDE THE EXHAUST. This can result in an exhaust pipe that GLOWS RED while the bike is running. Only in this extreme case can a too-rich mixture cause bluing.

The common myth that blue is lean and gold is rich (or the reverse) is just that. A myth.

Third, long periods of idle can cause pipes to blue because there isn't any airflow to blow off the heat. (Some people let their bikes idle WAY too long upon start up before they take off)

So it looks like BOTH are possible - any way I can tell? Smell, maybe? It's at home, so I can't check tonight, but I can tomorrow or after midnight, when I get home. I don't have a infrared thermometer, to check heat, so can't do that...but I will pull the plugs, and check them for lean/rich.

R

[Bone]

With these temperatures it should start without a choke. Is the choke cable completely off (open)? Reason I ask is the drop in MPG & bluing pipes.

[fudgie]

Well your on the other side of the State from me or I would ride over and help ya out.  We leave in 23 days to go out west so I dont really have time to trekk over there either. Have you done plugs and air filter? Guess it wouldnt hurt to sync the carbs, do the pilots, and swap out the vac lines. The carbs are really easy and should take you less then a hour along with the pilots. I do the 1 vac gauge think and works well. Others have a write up on their vac gauge. Swapping vac lines just mean remove the old, replace with new. Might as well start there. You could desmog, which gets rid of all the vac lines. If you have any mechanical/vehicle knowledge, you can do it in a weekend or a sat. The more you do the work yourself, the more you will learn about the bike. I wouldnt put it off till this winter, unless you like blue pipes. If they are oem pipes that are blueing, something is wrong.

[Walküre]

With these temperatures it should start without a choke. Is the choke cable completely off (open)? Reason I ask is the drop in MPG & bluing pipes.

Choke itself is off, but it hadn't occurred to me, that it's possible that the cable has seized up a bit at the carb end, leaving it on a bit, all the time. Even though I haven't used the choke to start the bike, since I got it, I did exercise it a few times, when I put on my Vista Cruise. And that might have been around the time, that it first started starting a little rough. That will be the first thing I check.

I have a bit of experience with bikes that have "sat" - 10-15 year old bikes, with 5,000 or so miles on them. A LOT can happen - heck, if the choke had WD-40 on it, it could be WD-Honey now.

Thanks, Bone, that makes a lot of sense, and will be the first thing I check!

Anyone have any experience with the "blue away", "Blue Job", and the other removers? I don't expect much, but will need to try, when I get this resolved. Local HD dealer said, "oh yeah, sure, I have some of that!! Lot's of guys use it, right over here...Hmmm...can't seem to find it! Hey, the stuff doesn't work, anyway!!"...ha, ha!

Fudgie - yeah, original pipes, that was my first clue, that something WAS wrong! And no, I really don't want blue pipes, OR the associated burnt stuff that can go along with it.

Haven't done plugs or air filter, but I'm assuming they were done with the tuneup and check out, 1000 miles ago. Air filter will be checked - previous owner DID live on a dirt road, and I spent a week digging dust out of a lot of nooks and crannies...

I have the ability, and general knowledge - just not the Valk, yet. I'm actually restoring a '51 Ford F2 3/4 ton pick'em'up right now, old 239 Flathead rebuilt. will be a 100% stock restoration, with the exception of the gearing in the rear end - came with 4.86, going 3.73, so I can do over 40 on the road. You can see progress here:

http://www.crbest.com/bodywork

Thanks,

Oh yeah, daughter is in Ft. Wayne for ten days, at IPFW, learning her way around the campus. Left today.

[Bone]

Do you know that they don't have a standard choke ? I believe it's called an enrichment valve or something similar. Maybe someone that knows will jump in and give us the real details.

[fudgie]

Fudgie - yeah, original pipes, that was my first clue, that something WAS wrong! And no, I really don't want blue pipes, OR the associated burnt stuff that can go along with it.

Haven't done plugs or air filter, but I'm assuming they were done with the tuneup and check out, 1000 miles ago. Air filter will be checked - previous owner DID live on a dirt road, and I spent a week digging dust out of a lot of nooks and crannies...

I have the ability, and general knowledge - just not the Valk, yet. I'm actually restoring a '51 Ford F2 3/4 ton pick'em'up right now, old 239 Flathead rebuilt. will be a 100% stock restoration, with the exception of the gearing in the rear end - came with 4.86, going 3.73, so I can do over 40 on the road. You can see progress here:

http://www.crbest.com/bodywork

Thanks,

Oh yeah, daughter is in Ft. Wayne for ten days, at IPFW, learning her way around the campus. Left today.

You should be fine doing the work yourself. In the area, give a shout. Lot of Valk riders in the Fort. I'm in huntington, just a few min north of US 24.

[Walküre]

Yup, just looked it up on Dag's manual - SE valve. Has details on checking and adjusting.

[Walküre]

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You should be fine doing the work yourself. In the area, give a shout. Lot of Valk riders in the Fort. I'm in huntington, just a few min north of US 24.

Yeah, not too concerned about DOING the work, just didn't want to take the time, right now. Too much going on, cars to sell, trailer's to build, summer is disappearing fast! Oh well, guess I can drive the Saturn, if I want to save fuel...but it has it's own problems at 200,000 miles.

Thanks, I DO plan to come up there often. Gives me a reason to visit my daughter. Or vice-versa!!     But have to have the problem solved, first.