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Author Topic: Some quick questions. Probably old topic  (Read 1272 times)
Raverez
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Posts: 699


No good deed goes unpunished

Central New York State


« on: July 25, 2010, 06:26:07 PM »

So, I had just started to go to the the store when the rear tire blew out. I had thought of changing to car tire anyway, but haven't done any real research on it. I know there's tons of discussion on the subject. So I just need to know a couple of things.

I know size 205\60-R16 is probably the size most use.
 Are there any other sizes that will fit without any modifications?
 To do the nut cage mod, do I need to remove the fender?
 Do I need to modify the wheel bearings? I think I read something on this board about it.
 And which tire?
 

Posted on this the Tech board also.
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Smokinjoe-VRCCDS#0005
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Posts: 13832


American by Birth, Southern by the Grace of God.

Beautiful east Tennessee ( GOD'S Country )


« Reply #1 on: July 25, 2010, 06:48:02 PM »

So, I had just started to go to the the store when the rear tire blew out. I had thought of changing to car tire anyway, but haven't done any real research on it. I know there's tons of discussion on the subject. So I just need to know a couple of things.

I know size 205\60-R16 is probably the size most use.
 Are there any other sizes that will fit without any modifications?
 To do the nut cage mod, do I need to remove the fender?
 Do I need to modify the wheel bearings? I think I read something on this board about it.
 And which tire?
 

Posted on this the Tech board also.



I've always used the 205/55/16 ( High Performance Directional ) ...I've used the Cooper Zeon 2XS and the Fuzion ZRi ....I'll be going with the Fuzion on all my bikes when rear tire time comes.It's simple to do the nut cage with the wheel off just cut it down the middle and bend the two halfs back and forth until they break off.No special need for bearings we all know the left will go before the right however I don't think it matters if it has a car tire or motorcycle tire it will fail on either.

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I've seen alot of people that thought they were cool , but then again Lord I've seen alot of fools.
Raverez
Member
*****
Posts: 699


No good deed goes unpunished

Central New York State


« Reply #2 on: July 25, 2010, 07:17:06 PM »

BTW. I'll be removing the rear wheel myself for the first time. Any suggestions or shortcuts are appreciated, Thanks.

99 interstate.
« Last Edit: July 25, 2010, 08:24:06 PM by Raverez » Logged
Stanley Steamer
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Posts: 4990


Athens, GA


« Reply #3 on: July 25, 2010, 08:09:16 PM »

BTW. I'll be r3emoving the rear wheel myself for the first time. Any suggestions or shortcuts are appreciated, Thanks.

99 interstate.


Nut Cage Mod....

http://lifeisaroad.com/stories/2005/08/24/valkyrieRearFenderNutCageMod.html

Rear tire removal....

Rear Wheel Removalpowered by Aeva
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Stanley "Steamer"

"Ride Hard or Stay Home"

therapist
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Posts: 654



« Reply #4 on: July 26, 2010, 05:40:09 AM »

While that video is nice, for a person who never did the job before, it sure makes it look simpler than it is.  The main thing, which really isn't pointed out, is that you have to loosen the pumpkin bolts before trying to put the tire back in, and don't tighten them until the axle is torqued down.  It also doesn't show cleaning the old lube off and checking/changing the 3 o-rings and thrust washer.  Again, not a bad video but it could get a newbie into trouble because it is more like the Readers Digest (condensed) version of the job.  JMO
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Stanley Steamer
Member
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Posts: 4990


Athens, GA


« Reply #5 on: July 26, 2010, 01:47:17 PM »

While that video is nice, for a person who never did the job before, it sure makes it look simpler than it is.  The main thing, which really isn't pointed out, is that you have to loosen the pumpkin bolts before trying to put the tire back in, and don't tighten them until the axle is torqued down.  It also doesn't show cleaning the old lube off and checking/changing the 3 o-rings and thrust washer.  Again, not a bad video but it could get a newbie into trouble because it is more like the Readers Digest (condensed) version of the job.  JMO


Yeah.....what you said!!.... cooldude
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Stanley "Steamer"

"Ride Hard or Stay Home"

Raverez
Member
*****
Posts: 699


No good deed goes unpunished

Central New York State


« Reply #6 on: July 26, 2010, 06:11:39 PM »

OK, so now that I know what not to do when taking off the rear wheel. What do I need to make sure I put this back together correctly.
What I did wrong: Those four bolts on the final drive shaft. Thought I was supposed to remove them.
Since I didn't have a manual with me and couldn't run upstairs for every step, I removed them. could have sworn I saw Dag tightening them in the video. Well when I pulled the wheel off guess what came with it. yep. So now can I just slip it back in or does it needs to be greased, oiled,(fed a burger and a beer?) before putting it back in?
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vanagon40
Member
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Posts: 1461

Greenwood, IN


« Reply #7 on: July 26, 2010, 09:33:19 PM »

I don't mean to preach, but I will try to answer your questions:

Quote
So, I had just started to go to the store when the rear tire blew out. I had thought of changing to car tire anyway, but haven't done any real research on it. I know there's tons of discussion on the subject. So I just need to know a couple of things.

I know size 205\60-R16 is probably the size most use.
 Are there any other sizes that will fit without any modifications?
 To do the nut cage mod, do I need to remove the fender?
 Do I need to modify the wheel bearings? I think I read something on this board about it.
 And which tire?

BTW. I'll be removing the rear wheel myself for the first time. Any suggestions or shortcuts are appreciated, Thanks.
 . . .

99 interstate.

Well when I pulled the wheel off guess what came with it. yep. So now can I just slip it back in or does it needs to be greased, oiled,(fed a burger and a beer?) before putting it back in?
 . . .

Commonly used sizes other than 205\60-R16 are 205\65-R16 and 205\55-R16.  With the 205\55-R16 being slightly smaller than the original tire, likely no modifications are necessary.  With the 205\65-R16 being slightly larger than the original tire, most folks use the nut cage modification or the fender washer modification or both.  If you have aftermarket shocks or other parts, modifications may or may not be necessary.  In addition to the above sizes, some folks have used larger tires (with perhaps more complicated modifications) or smaller tires (with the only “complication” being higher RPM  at the same speed).

To perform the nut cage modification, you do NOT need to remove the fender, although it is probably easier with the fender removed.  It would probably be particularly difficult (although not impossible), to perform the modification with the fender in place and a tire installed.

You do NOT need to modify the wheel bearings to install a car tire.  The wheel bearing modification has many supporters, but also has some who claim the benefits are overrated and do not outweigh the possible elimination of a dust seal.  Use the search engine and reach your own conclusion.

Which tire?  I’ll save this question for last.

Suggestions for shortcuts or hints on removing the rear tire.  On my Standard, I use Carl Kulow’s procedure as outlined on the ShopTalk page.  May be more difficult with the bags on an Interstate, but your later posts indicate that you are beyond this step anyway.

Now that you have removed the entire “pumpkin” in one piece, I would NOT recommend that you simply reinstall it.  Again, read Carl Kulow’s lubrication procedure as outlined on the ShopTalk page.  I think the exact type of lubricant is not as important as is the installation procedure (although I would use BelRay assembly lube or moly paste or whatever the manual recommends rather than simple multi-purpose grease).  Again, use the search feature and you will find many different recommendations.  Make sure you follow the instructions exactly regarding reassembly, tightening the four bolts on the final shaft drive LAST.  Depending on your mileage and your aversion to risk, you may re-use the o-rings and thrust washer.

With regard to type of tire, you will receive as many different opinions as there are tire types.  The problem is most people have not compared multiple brands/types of tires.  Because a car tire may last up to 30,000 miles, many people who have tried car tires (including myself) have experience with only one tire.  That person either likes that tire (and therefore claims it is a great–and maybe the best–tire) or hates the tire (and therefore believes that the tire he used is vastly inferior to a motorcycle tire). ( I recognize there are exceptions and some folks have ridden many thousands of miles on different types of tires).

I personally believe that the choice of tire is a mostly self fulfilling prophesy.  If a person buys a high performance, soft compound tire because he wants a high performance tire (and does not worry about getting high mileage from a tire) the person will buy a tire fitting those specifications and be happy with the tire (whether a car tire or motorcycle tire) assuming there are no major complications.

If a person wants a high mileage tire, he (or she) will buy a “Grandma’s Buick” tire (e.g., Goodyear TripleTred) and be happy when the tire “looks like new” at 10,000 miles.  The person is perhaps willing to sacrifice some performance for mileage (and would do the same with a motorcycle tire).

If a person has an open mind and is willing to try a car tire, the person is much more likely to like a car tire.  If a person really wants a high mileage tire, (or inexpensive tire) I believe the person is more likely to discount any disadvantages to a car tire and really like the car tire.  In other words, I believe the subject is so subjective that each person must decide what is important to him and make a decision based upon those factors.  Only you can decide what you are looking for in a tire.  If you think a tire originally designed for application on an automobile will fulfill your needs, I think you should give a car tire a try.

Good luck.
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