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BuzzKill
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« on: August 06, 2010, 05:27:33 PM » |
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Reinstalling my wheel after replacing a tire. When I'm reinstalling it, I'm just not sure about the alignment of the pumkin and wheel. There is a lip on the wheel, and a black boot on the pumpkin. Is the boot supposed to go over that last lip? If so how can I get it to fit properly?
Lip ---> ][ <--- Boot
And just for clarification, tighten the axle, then tighten the 4 shaft nuts? I already loosened them. Thanks for any info.
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bigdog99
Member
Posts: 584
1/1/2011 86,000 miles
Kouts Indiana
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« Reply #1 on: August 06, 2010, 05:30:47 PM » |
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when i took mine off the bgoot appears to be a dust cover. once you put the wheel on it woll snug up to it. i didnt have to put it on the outside.
i would tighten the 4 shaft nuts forst to make sure it is square.
my $.02
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 VRCC#31391 VRCCDS0239 |
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Valkpilot
Member
Posts: 2151
What does the data say?
Corinth, Texas
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« Reply #2 on: August 06, 2010, 05:37:23 PM » |
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Reinstalling my wheel after replacing a tire. When I'm reinstalling it, I'm just not sure about the alignment of the pumkin and wheel. There is a lip on the wheel, and a black boot on the pumpkin. Is the boot supposed to go over that last lip? If so how can I get it to fit properly?
Lip ---> ][ <--- Boot
And just for clarification, tighten the axle, then tighten the 4 shaft nuts? I already loosened them. Thanks for any info.
The black ring around the pumpking fits slightly over the rim of the wheel center. It will look like it needs to go on further, but it won't. Absolutely tighten the four bolts that hold the pumpkin to the swingarm last, i.e., after the axle nut has been tightened. If you have all the parts in their correct places, including the spacers, it will be right. Tightening the axle nut first, then the pumpkin to the swingarm, allows all the splines to seat properly and to find their own alignment. Send me an e-mail if you need me to come look at it. You're only a couple of miles away. |
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VRCC #19757 IBA #44686 1998 Black Standard 2007 Goldwing   |
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Patrick
Member
Posts: 15433
VRCC 4474
Largo Florida
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« Reply #3 on: August 06, 2010, 05:57:29 PM » |
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Yep, you snug the axle first making sure everything is as it should be, I only tighten the axle to about 60# or so[ I think 80 is too much].. Then tighten the 4 differential retainers.. Its important to do it in that order to save wear and tear on the drive splines..
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bigdog99
Member
Posts: 584
1/1/2011 86,000 miles
Kouts Indiana
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« Reply #4 on: August 06, 2010, 06:00:17 PM » |
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well look at that. i learned something too.  |
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VRCC#31391 VRCCDS0239 |
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BuzzKill
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« Reply #5 on: August 06, 2010, 09:46:02 PM » |
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Big thanks to Valkpilot for coming over and helping me. The boot doesnt go all the way over the lip. Good to know in the future. The tire looked center, but I just wanted to be sure. Thanks for the input everyone.
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #6 on: August 07, 2010, 05:27:40 AM » |
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when i took mine off the bgoot appears to be a dust cover. once you put the wheel on it woll snug up to it. i didnt have to put it on the outside.
i would tighten the 4 shaft nuts forst to make sure it is square.
my $.02
I hope you havent re-installed many final drives this way. That is asking for disaster. If you want it square....the tightening of the axle nut pulling the final drive SQUARE against the wheel is what does it, then you tighten the 4 "shaft nuts" to maintain the proper square alignment you have just achieved by FIRST tightening the axle. Be careful out there |
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #7 on: August 08, 2010, 10:39:25 AM » |
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If when changing the tire for the first time and following the proper procedure there should be no reason to continue the same procedure when doing subsequent tire changes.
The pumpkin should not change position again once it is positioned properly.
It was probably alright the first time from the factory!
If you have changed out the universal joint, drive shaft or similar, then repositioning of the pumpkin is called for again.
It's not that big a deal!
***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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X Ring
Member
Posts: 3626
VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204
The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans
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« Reply #8 on: August 08, 2010, 11:36:08 AM » |
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If when changing the tire for the first time and following the proper procedure there should be no reason to continue the same procedure when doing subsequent tire changes.
The pumpkin should not change position again once it is positioned properly.
It was probably alright the first time from the factory!
If you have changed out the universal joint, drive shaft or similar, then repositioning of the pumpkin is called for again.
It's not that big a deal!
***
??? I hope none of the new members are taking your advice to heart. You'd end up being responsible for more wheel flange and final drive replacements than the idjits working in the service departments. Marty |
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People are more passionately opposed to wearing fur than leather because it's safer to harass rich women than bikers.  |
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ridgeman06
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« Reply #9 on: August 09, 2010, 03:57:21 AM » |
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Boy, some of these messages are not accurate.
You people really need to be careful when giving advice.
Get a service manual and read the proper procedure from step one.
You can take shortcuts such as not removing the exhaust, because a better way of wheel removal does exist, but bolt tightening sequences cannot be altered.
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1998 Maroon and Creme Tourer. This is my second Valkyrie. I have been a member here since I had bought my first one back in 1998. I had a different account then.
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Valkpilot
Member
Posts: 2151
What does the data say?
Corinth, Texas
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« Reply #10 on: August 09, 2010, 05:10:59 AM » |
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From page 14-9 of the Honda Service Manual:
"Loosen the final gear case mounting nuts to ease axle installation and to assure proper driven flange alignment." [My emphasis.]
"Install and tighten the rear brake caliper stopper bolt."
"Install and tigten the axle nut to the specified torque."
"Tighten the final gear case mounting nuts to the specified torque."
Procedure, sequence, and rationale seem pretty clear to me.
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« Last Edit: August 09, 2010, 07:52:14 AM by Valkpilot »
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VRCC #19757 IBA #44686 1998 Black Standard 2007 Goldwing |
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #11 on: August 09, 2010, 05:13:44 AM » |
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From page 14-9 of the Honda Service Manual:
"Loosen the final gear case mounting nuts to ease axle installation and to assure prpoer driven flange alignment." [My emphasis.]
"Install and tighten the rear brake caliper stopper bolt."
"Install and tigten the axle nut to the specified torque."
"Tighten the final gear case mounting nuts the the specified torque."
Procedure, sequence, and rationale seem pretty clear to me.
Yep unless you just enjoy buying final drives |
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doubletee
Member
Posts: 1165
VRCC # 22269
Fort Wayne, IN
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« Reply #12 on: August 09, 2010, 07:30:38 AM » |
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I only own one torque wrench and it's a 1/2 inch drive monster. I had a problem getting to the last of the 4 final gear case mounting nuts with it. I managed to get on the nut, but I'm pretty sure it's not torqued to specs because of the strange angle I had to use. It was the last of the 4, so I'm not too worried about it.
Do you guys use a smaller torque wrench that makes this easier, or can you share a tip that I may not know about?
I have to pull the rear wheel again to have new rubber mounted.
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« Last Edit: August 09, 2010, 07:32:33 AM by doubletee »
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #13 on: August 09, 2010, 07:56:37 AM » |
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I only own one torque wrench and it's a 1/2 inch drive monster. I had a problem getting to the last of the 4 final gear case mounting nuts with it. I managed to get on the nut, but I'm pretty sure it's not torqued to specs because of the strange angle I had to use. It was the last of the 4, so I'm not too worried about it.
Do you guys use a smaller torque wrench that makes this easier, or can you share a tip that I may not know about?
I have to pull the rear wheel again to have new rubber mounted.
I use a 1/2 drive torque wrench with a u-joint thing and I can get them all but one sometimes depends on the angle of the swing arm. I have found that if I use a small6 or 7" box wrench 47lbs is just about the tightest I can get it without applying UNREASONABLE force. So if you cant get to one, put a non extended box wrench on it and just make it as tight as your hand can do....that would be close enough |
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« Last Edit: August 09, 2010, 07:58:21 AM by Chrisj CMA »
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