Non-synthetic advice please

[Pale Rider]

Being a new owner of a 2001 standard with 22,000, I am due for an oil change.  I have searched the archives, and opinions are all over the board with most leaning towards synthetic oils.  I would prefer staying clear of synthetics and conducting the 3000-5000mile change with non-synthetic.  I have had good luck with Castrol products, but would very much appreciate any feedback provided.  My riding is exclusively in the midwest (Indiana), and I would like recommendations on brand and weight.

Another question that seems to have varying opinion is "what this the oil capacity with new filter when changing oil?"  Any help is appreciated.

[six2go #152]

Pale Rider, where are ya in the Hoosier State? I'm in Ft. Wayne. Anyway, my answer to your questions would be Rotella T 15W-40(White Jug) is as about as good as you can get in a Dino oil. Most of us here just dump in the whole gallon & go. That extra .1 quart won't hurt anything.

[Paul-M]

Hi Pale Rider and welcome to the Valkyrie family! It's a question probably asked most often and the source of debate after debate so at the risk of the firing squad tearing me a "new one" I'll try to be as accurate as I can and keep my own bias to a minimum.

Your manual states that you need 3.9 quarts of "Honda GN4 or HP4 4-stroke oil or equivalent motor oil" with an "API service classification of SF or SG" viscosity SAE 10W-40 (Honda Service Manual page 3-1). The interesting thing is that this oil does not exist. An API rating of SF is for 1988 and older engines and SG is for 1993 and older engines ... Both of which are obsolete! Correct me here but wasn't the Valkyrie introduced in 1997? The oil recommended by Honda did not exist when the Valkyrie hit production! I have a copy of the 2004 API Motor Oil Guide in case anyone would like to see my source.

When I researched what the API ratings really meant, I found that the lower you are in the alphabet, the lower the grade of the oil. A rating of SA is pretty darn near pure crude oil I bet. Anything you buy or see today is going to be much better than the manufacturer's recommendation with regard to the API rating. So keeping that in mind, any decent 10w-40 should be fine. API rating of SM seems to be the most up-to-date API rating as far as I can tell.

To achieve the required 3.9 quarts just don't dump the whole quart in. When it stops flowing a lot (large stream), stop pouring. Don't worry about emptying the remaining bit. If you do this with each quart you will be close enough to the requirement. It's not an exact science but it works for me.

I've had my lady for about 5 years now. I run a full synthetic from Mobile 1 and here is the reason why:
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Oils_FAQs.aspx#Motorcycle_Oil_FAQs4

Hope that helps. Let me know if you need anything clarified.

Ride safe!

[hubcapsc]

I'm sure you can get cheaper stuff that's plenty good... but I order a case of Honda oil and change it every 5,000 (or so  ) miles
and the case lasts a year and a half or so... 65 bucks at HDL right now...



I tested HDL on a recent tire buy... they happily beat other's advertised prices...

I remember when I was a kid, the label on Honda oil said, "Now with OCP!" Grady Miller, the local Honda dealer,
pointed it out to me and winked - Oriental Cat Piss...

-Mike

[Paul-M]

I stand corrected, it still does exist. Sorry about that. I would question using it however considering the API rating. As far as the manufacturer's recommendation it does fit the bill.

I found an updated (March 2010) API Guide online for those wishing to see my source:
http://www.api.org/certifications/engineoil/pubs/upload/EngineOilGuide_March2010.pdf

Sorry for any confusion but for what it's worth I stand by my current post. Anything you find is going to be better than Honda's recommendation.

Ride Safe

[98valk]

any Heavy duty engine oil (HDEO) othewise know as 15w40 diesel oil. delvac, rotella, delo, etc.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1814903#Post1814903

I'm using Amsoil 10w30/30HD no shear in 4200 miles

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Main=137495&Number=1984493#Post1984493

oil analysis of different 15w40s, look for the honda ST reports also

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=postlist&Board=49&page=1

the honda oil is terrible according to testing done by motorcycle consumer news a few yrs ago.

and the service manual calls for 8k oil changes.

[hubcapsc]

the honda oil is terrible according to testing done by motorcycle consumer news a few yrs ago.

It went downhill after they quit using OCP.

-Mike 

[Ricky-D]

The better oils will have better additives.

Oils for air cooled v-twins will have the best additives.

Transmission noise will be more evident with thinner oil and with cheaper oil because of the lack of better additives.

If you've been running full synthetic oil (which is a misnomer) you should stay with synthetic because there are leak problems associated with going back to dino!

Some moly in the oil should not be a clutch problem. Mass quantities of moly should be avoided. Oil modifiers are in this mix also!

If you change the oil at around 2,500 miles you should not need to change the filter but every three or four oil changes.

Quicker changes of cheaper oil does not equal longer times between oil changes with expensive oil.

***

[98valk]

The better oils will have better additives.  oil analysis has disproved this many times

Oils for air cooled v-twins will have the best additives.    oil analysis has proved otherwise

Transmission noise will be more evident with thinner oil and with cheaper oil because of the lack of better additives.   again wrong see #1

If you've been running full synthetic oil (which is a misnomer) you should stay with synthetic because there are leak problems associated with going back to dino!  this is old info from the 1970s when synthetics were first used and was corrected a few yrs later. Today's syn formulas do not cause this.

Some moly in the oil should not be a clutch problem. Mass quantities of moly should be avoided. Oil modifiers are in this mix also!   what are mass quantities? 2lbs? 750ppm? etc.

If you change the oil at around 2,500 miles you should not need to change the filter but every three or four oil changes.

Quicker changes of cheaper oil does not equal longer times between oil changes with expensive oil.

***

so sad

[Jess from VA]

Paleguy.  Change your mind and go to Wally World and buy a blue gallon jug of T6 Shell Rotella full synthetic 5-40 for $19.  It is better than dino and probably cheaper than four quarts of it.  Your Valk will like the syn and it quiets the square cut gears.  Easily good for 5-6K miles between changes and it will be better in the cold weather you get than dino too.

http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee346/3dman7/af133c95.jpg

1.  Drain the bike on the kickstand with filter off when hot/warm.  When draining, pull the oil dipstick and the fill hole plug to help it drain.  Then, sitting on the seat, lean the bike over to the right to get all the remaining oil out you can.

2.  Drain the breather tube under the right side (the one with the black plug in it). 

3.  Put a bead of clean oil on the new filter gasket and tighten it down with fingers only.

4.  Using a funnel, add all of the gallon jug, except the last little bit of it and start checking the oil level, with the bike level (sitting on it) and the dipstick in, but not screwed in.  Though the manual says 3.9 quarts, my last few changes, I have done so well getting all the old oil out, I have put the whole gallon in and the level has showed only a mm or two above the dipstick level line (which is not overfull).

5.  Start a service interval notebook, and note the bike's mileage, the date, oil and filter (and breather tube drain). 

[Farther]

Start a service interval notebook, and note the bike's mileage, the date, oil and filter (and breather tube drain). 

You can keep your maintenance records on Honda Owner's Link.  www.ahm-ownerlink.com/user_profile.asp

[Jess from VA]

Start a service interval notebook, and note the bike's mileage, the date, oil and filter (and breather tube drain).  

You can keep your maintenance records on Honda Owner's Link.  www.ahm-ownerlink.com/user_profile.asp

Interesting, but I am old fashioned, and like it in a notebook out in the shed with the bikes. Especially tire changes.  

With my luck, all my records would disappear from that site in a thunderstorm.

[Ronnie Reeves]

Used Exxon Superflo 10w40 for 35plus yrs. Many bike I went over 100k with no problems . Went to Castro Syntec yrs. ago and love it . Put 307k on 2000 Valk. Interstate trike with CSC trike kit and sold it . Its still going strong and sound like a new bike.  Put what you want in it . All oils are good now days.

[hubcapsc]

You can keep your maintenance records on Honda Owner's Link. 

I write it on the wall of the Valkyrie shed with a sharpie 

-Mike

[Daniel Meyer]

I run the Castroil diesel engine oil. 15-40 or 10-40...whichever is available.

I'll never see an oil-related engine failure.