Left rear bearing...Ever had one go bad ?

[Smokinjoe-VRCCDS#0005]

 

I've replaced ( 3 ) with stock going back in on three different Valkyrie's over a 12 year period....I just went with the double row ( R ) on the ( L ) after doing the spacer mod so I've replaced the left side ( 4 ) times.

[RoadKill]

I still have not had any of the "common" problems with my Valk. and I doubt there is another as neglected or abused. Many un-common Problems but they all are from undisputed physical abuse.

Speedo quit at @ 63 k miles in feb of '07. Surely 100+ now and the clutch safety switch is gettin intermittent.   THESE GIRLS ARE TUFF !
  If it needs a bearing,a U-joint,starter switch or WHATEVER...It falls into the "SH!# Happens" category. Some one on this board can help and together we will RIDE ON !  

Joe,You are part of the glue that keeps this family together! Need help with a bearing replacement?  

[Smokinjoe-VRCCDS#0005]

I still have not had any of the "common" problems with my Valk. and I doubt there is another as neglected or abused. Many un-common Problems but they all are from undisputed physical abuse.

Speedo quit at @ 63 k miles in feb of '07. Surely 100+ now and the clutch safety switch is gettin intermittent.   THESE GIRLS ARE TUFF !
  If it needs a bearing,a U-joint,starter switch or WHATEVER...It falls into the "SH!# Happens" category. Some one on this board can help and together we will RIDE ON !  

Joe,You are part of the glue that keeps this family together! Need help with a bearing replacement?  

Thanks just the same    I got it 

[Ratdog]

Joe?  Do you loosen the four nuts holding the final drive to the swingarm when you drop the wheel?

If you do... and then re-torque them LAST (upon wheel installation)... you've less of a chance of any axle/wheel/swingarm alignment issues (which could put some preventable stress on that weaker L/R bearing if you didn't).

[Smokinjoe-VRCCDS#0005]

Joe?  Do you loosen the four nuts holding the final drive to the swingarm when you drop the wheel?

If you do... and then re-torque them LAST (upon wheel installation)... you've less of a chance of any axle/wheel/swingarm alignment issues (which could put some preventable stress on that weaker L/R bearing if you didn't).

I pull it all when I change the tire ...I change the final drive hypod oil I clean and re-lube the splines the drive-shaft at both ends , pinion cup and replace o-rings and crush washer. And yes the 4 bolts are the last thing I do....I've seen Daniel Myers do it 2 times at different InZane's.

[Ratdog]

Yer good to go... 'gis checking.  Many folks do not.

[wlgrice]

I have had to replace 3 on differant bikes, so when I buy a differant valk. I change all the wheel bearings front and rear just for insurance.

[Smokinjoe-VRCCDS#0005]

I have had to replace 3 on differant bikes, so when I buy a differant valk. I change all the wheel bearings front and rear just for insurance.

I only changed mine when they went bad or when checking them at tire change they did'nt feel smooth .The two I've had go bad while riding still got me home I could feel the different vibration in the foot pegs. The last one when I pulled the wheel to change the tire and service the final drive it had a rough spot I did'nt like so I went with the spacer mod and double row bearing on it....Time will tell 

[F6Dave]

Just curious if there's a pattern to the failures.  My '98 Tourer's bearing failed at about 50K, but the replacement from NAPA has lasted over 90K miles.  My '99 IS OEM bearing is still good at over 60K.

[JerryB]

Ya gotta quit leaning that thing over on the left side so far Joe!!!!!!

[Grumpy]

Replaced both bearings, but the left was bad, once at 27,000 and second time at 65,000. Last time just felt rough when changing the rear tire.

[fudgie]

Not yet at 60k. 2nd season on a CT.

[chrise2469]

At the last tire change, the left felt rough so I got them both changed out.  A good thing too, the inner race on the right was cracked on the backside.  I think that might have happened when some dumba$$ named Chris drove over a lift adapter . 

[ChromeDome]

Replaced mine about 3 or 4 times over the course of 3 years. After the last time I found a replacement rear wheel, had new bearings and spacer installed, had the tire and everything else move to the new wheel and have not had a problem since. Still, I do travel with a complete set of rear bearings and related parts.

[Tundra]

Yup, done mine twice. Another friend has done his. Two others have never done them
I'm thinking it's related to riding style ??? I'm a pretty aggressive rider ??? (hard cornering)???
  I've heard others pose the same question Joe. Some guys with a good amount of miles and never had this failure. I maintain my bike better than anyone I know personally and have done mine twice. go figure? Then I've also heard the C/T can add stress to that area in corners. (they were joking) and I did mine BEFORE my C/T. I just don't have an answer
  Got another friend who doesn't take care of his Valk at all. Parked under a carport, never been waxed, doesn't lube anyhing, never had the rear end off and he's had none of the problems I've had

[cutter]

Haven't replaced a bearing yet, 99 I/S 190K+. Now that I have said that....... 

[Super Santa]

91k on my 2000 I/S and never replaced.  Just checked last about 2-3 weeks ago with last tire changes.

[Daniel Meyer]

Still running the original bearings at 140,000 miles (but they don't last forever).

I check 'em carefully every tire change/pull down (and do carry spares on long trips). I've replaced several for folks at mileages anywhere from 10,000 on up.

I don't know what makes the difference, although I'd suggest those that are having multiple failures on the same bike measure CAREFULLY the wheel casting and spacer. One bike I saw had a "tit" in the wheel casting where the bearing seats and so the bearings weren't going in all the way. Another I saw somebody had broken the "seat" out of the wheel on the first change.

I've not seen one on a Valk, but I've seen badly machined wheels where the distance between the bearing seats was NOT correct and some that weren't square to each other. That would lead to premature failure for sure.

Anyway, the left rear fails pretty commonly on many different Valks...indicating it's marginal on size/design. Bearings don't last forever, but they just shouldn't fail easily either. Multiple failures on the same machine, to me, indicate something else could be going on and some VERY close/technical scrutiny is an order.

The only thing I do differently to mine is each time I pull/replace a wheel, I smear a little wheel bearing grease on the edges of the bearing...covering the bearing's own seal. My theory is this keeps that seal lubed and less prone to fail, and the grease I put on helps keep dust/water on the outside (I wipe off and re-smear every time). I also change the dust seal in the wheel reasonably often.

Habit I guess. I've always ridden hard and in severe conditions (heat, dust, rain, etc) so I've always done this. I've never had a wheel bearing failure on a motorcycle (knock wood). The two are not necessarily related.

I think the left bearing mod is probably a good thing, but in my opinion the bearing's seal is not adequate to leave openly exposed in that environment (let's NOT forget brake dust on that side which is very abrasive) and would lead to premature failure ... so that viton seal/cover or getting the dust seal to give the bearing seal some additional protection (and in my case giving me a place to smear some grease) is very important.

[Jay]

My buddy had two left bearings fail.  The dealer replaced the first one, I did the second one.  It lookes like the seal had worn to the point that there was significant space between the seal and spacer.  This would allow crap to get at the seal on the bearing, and eventually into the bearing itself.  That is what I think causes most of the bearing failures.  And as Daniel stated the brake dust is very abrasive and is right there next to the seal.