Valkyrie Riders Cruiser Club
July 01, 2025, 01:23:12 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Ultimate Seats Link VRCC Store
Homepage : Photostash : JustPics : Shoptalk : Old Tech Archive : Classifieds : Contact Staff
News: If you're new to this message board, read THIS!
 
MarkT Exhaust
Pages: [1]   Go Down
Send this topic Print
Author Topic: Wing Rotors on a Valk?  (Read 3063 times)
sandy
Member
*****
Posts: 5383


Mesa, AZ.


« on: September 11, 2010, 01:32:13 PM »

For those that have done it: Wing rotors have different part #'s for left & right. Do you order 2 lefts or 2 rights or one of each? Or does it matter?
Logged

SANDMAN5
Member
*****
Posts: 2176


Mileage 65875

East TN


« Reply #1 on: September 11, 2010, 02:09:07 PM »

I assume you mean the 1800 Wing?
They work, not sure about the1500.
Logged

"Evolution" is a dying religion being kept alive with tax dollars.


Tropic traveler
Member
*****
Posts: 3117


Livin' the Valk, er, F6B life in Central Florida.

Silver Springs, Florida


« Reply #2 on: September 11, 2010, 06:37:04 PM »

Did it on my '97 a few months ago.
You need one right & one left from a 2001 & up 1800 Goldwing.
I also recommend using new Valkyrie attaching bolts. Stock Valkyrie pads.
The GW rotors are .5mm thinner than the Valk rotors but are 1/2 the price. I figure if they will stop a heavier & higher HP GL1800 'Wing a Valk should be no problem.
So far so good. I've put 3,000 miles on the new GW rotors & they work perfect!
Do a search, I think I posted the part #s on an front rotor post a few months back.


 
Logged

'13 F6B black-the real new Valkyrie Tourer
'13 F6B red for Kim
'97 Valkyrie Tourer r&w, OLDFRT's ride now!
'98 Valkyrie Tourer burgundy & cream traded for Kim's F6B
'05 SS 750 traded for Kim's F6B
'99 Valkyrie black & silver Tourer, traded in on my F6B
'05 Triumph R3 gone but not forgotten!
Smokinjoe-VRCCDS#0005
Member
*****
Posts: 13833


American by Birth, Southern by the Grace of God.

Beautiful east Tennessee ( GOD'S Country )


« Reply #3 on: September 11, 2010, 07:32:17 PM »

Did it on my '97 a few months ago.
You need one right & one left from a 2001 & up 1800 Goldwing.
I also recommend using new Valkyrie attaching bolts. Stock Valkyrie pads.
The GW rotors are .5mm thinner than the Valk rotors but are 1/2 the price. I figure if they will stop a heavier & higher HP GL1800 'Wing a Valk should be no problem.
So far so good. I've put 3,000 miles on the new GW rotors & they work perfect!
Do a search, I think I posted the part #s on an front rotor post a few months back.

 
Eddie do they look just alike when compared side by side ?
Logged



I've seen alot of people that thought they were cool , but then again Lord I've seen alot of fools.
Tropic traveler
Member
*****
Posts: 3117


Livin' the Valk, er, F6B life in Central Florida.

Silver Springs, Florida


« Reply #4 on: September 11, 2010, 07:50:51 PM »

Did it on my '97 a few months ago.
You need one right & one left from a 2001 & up 1800 Goldwing.
I also recommend using new Valkyrie attaching bolts. Stock Valkyrie pads.
The GW rotors are .5mm thinner than the Valk rotors but are 1/2 the price. I figure if they will stop a heavier & higher HP GL1800 'Wing a Valk should be no problem.
So far so good. I've put 3,000 miles on the new GW rotors & they work perfect!
Do a search, I think I posted the part #s on an front rotor post a few months back.

 

Here is a pic of a stock Valk rotor

Eddie do they look just alike when compared side by side ?



They don't look exactly alike but they fit & perform perfectly. I like the "wagon wheel" look of the 'Wing rotor better anyways. Grin
« Last Edit: September 11, 2010, 07:53:43 PM by Tropic traveler » Logged

'13 F6B black-the real new Valkyrie Tourer
'13 F6B red for Kim
'97 Valkyrie Tourer r&w, OLDFRT's ride now!
'98 Valkyrie Tourer burgundy & cream traded for Kim's F6B
'05 SS 750 traded for Kim's F6B
'99 Valkyrie black & silver Tourer, traded in on my F6B
'05 Triumph R3 gone but not forgotten!
Smokinjoe-VRCCDS#0005
Member
*****
Posts: 13833


American by Birth, Southern by the Grace of God.

Beautiful east Tennessee ( GOD'S Country )


« Reply #5 on: September 12, 2010, 04:00:35 AM »

Did it on my '97 a few months ago.
You need one right & one left from a 2001 & up 1800 Goldwing.
I also recommend using new Valkyrie attaching bolts. Stock Valkyrie pads.
The GW rotors are .5mm thinner than the Valk rotors but are 1/2 the price. I figure if they will stop a heavier & higher HP GL1800 'Wing a Valk should be no problem.
So far so good. I've put 3,000 miles on the new GW rotors & they work perfect!
Do a search, I think I posted the part #s on an front rotor post a few months back.

 

Here is a pic of a stock Valk rotor

Eddie do they look just alike when compared side by side ?



They don't look exactly alike but they fit & perform perfectly. I like the "wagon wheel" look of the 'Wing rotor better anyways. Grin

Thanks  cooldude When the time comes I'll go this route as well.
Logged



I've seen alot of people that thought they were cool , but then again Lord I've seen alot of fools.
RP#62
Member
*****
Posts: 4038


Gilbert, AZ


WWW
« Reply #6 on: September 12, 2010, 07:48:49 AM »

What's the minimum thickness on the wing rotor?
-RP
Logged

 
Ricky-D
Member
*****
Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #7 on: September 12, 2010, 09:11:08 AM »

There is no general difference between the right side and left side rotors on either, the Valkyrie or the GoldWing, except for the thickness issue between the two models.

There is a little arrow stamped on the rotor for directional rotation but there lies the rub.

If you abhor having a rotor with the arrow pointing in the wrong direction then you'd better order an individual left and right rotor.

***
Logged

2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
HayHauler
Member
*****
Posts: 7158


Pearland, TX


« Reply #8 on: September 12, 2010, 09:56:23 AM »

Ordered them yesterday along with 2 sets of pads and front bearings.  Will do the deed in a couple of weeks.
Thanks ShopTalk!

Hay  Cool
Jimmyt
Logged

VRCC# 28963
sandy
Member
*****
Posts: 5383


Mesa, AZ.


« Reply #9 on: September 12, 2010, 10:06:38 AM »

Thanks guys. Yes: I knew GL1800 rotors was what I was asking about. As Ricky stated: the rotor difference is the arrow rotation indicator. Is this the ONLY difference? RP: I'll check my service manual for the Wing rotor service limit.
Logged

RP#62
Member
*****
Posts: 4038


Gilbert, AZ


WWW
« Reply #10 on: September 12, 2010, 02:10:54 PM »

Thanks guys. Yes: I knew GL1800 rotors was what I was asking about. As Ricky stated: the rotor difference is the arrow rotation indicator. Is this the ONLY difference? RP: I'll check my service manual for the Wing rotor service limit.
Thanks Sandy.  The only reason I was asking was, thinking logically (always dangerous), if the wing rotor starts out thinner and has a limit thats thinner than a Valk rotor, and there's no problem running the wing rotor to its limit, there there should be no problem running the Valk rotor to the Wing limit before you change it.
-RP
Logged

 
Valkahuna
Member
*****
Posts: 1806


DeLand, Florida


« Reply #11 on: September 12, 2010, 02:43:12 PM »

Thanks guys. Yes: I knew GL1800 rotors was what I was asking about. As Ricky stated: the rotor difference is the arrow rotation indicator. Is this the ONLY difference? RP: I'll check my service manual for the Wing rotor service limit.
Thanks Sandy.  The only reason I was asking was, thinking logically (always dangerous), if the wing rotor starts out thinner and has a limit thats thinner than a Valk rotor, and there's no problem running the wing rotor to its limit, there there should be no problem running the Valk rotor to the Wing limit before you change it.
-RP

That's assuming that they are made out of the same grade steel.
« Last Edit: September 12, 2010, 05:17:34 PM by Valkahuna » Logged

The key thing is to wake up breathing! All the rest can be fixed. (Except Stupid - You can't fix that)

2014 Indian Chieftain
2001 Valkyrie I/S      

Proud to be a Vietnam Vet (US Air Force - SAC, 1967-1972)
Sodbuster
Member
*****
Posts: 1159



« Reply #12 on: September 12, 2010, 04:55:32 PM »

There is no general difference between the right side and left side rotors on either, the Valkyrie or the GoldWing, except for the thickness issue between the two models.

There is a little arrow stamped on the rotor for directional rotation but there lies the rub.

If you abhor having a rotor with the arrow pointing in the wrong direction then you'd better order an individual left and right rotor.

***

Unless I'm missing something .... isn't the arrow direction in reference to the hole pattern in the rotors. Look a little closer at the hole pattern and you'll see what I mean.

Logged

VRCC # 30938
'99 Std. - Black & Silver - "Spirit Horse"

Dear God, Seriously .... Thanks for creating beer.  You rock !!

Red Diamond
Member
*****
Posts: 2245


Beaumont, Texas


« Reply #13 on: September 12, 2010, 06:12:08 PM »

Nothing to do with the hole pattern, everything to do with rotation direction.
Logged


If you are riding  and it is a must that you keep your eyes on the road, you are riding too fast.
Sodbuster
Member
*****
Posts: 1159



« Reply #14 on: September 12, 2010, 06:36:23 PM »

Nothing to do with the hole pattern, everything to do with rotation direction.


I'm referring to the holes in the disk .... not the mounting holes ....

Logged

VRCC # 30938
'99 Std. - Black & Silver - "Spirit Horse"

Dear God, Seriously .... Thanks for creating beer.  You rock !!

Tropic traveler
Member
*****
Posts: 3117


Livin' the Valk, er, F6B life in Central Florida.

Silver Springs, Florida


« Reply #15 on: September 12, 2010, 09:27:19 PM »

From what I've read the difference in thickness is:
Valk rotors 5mm thick new, junk at 4mm worn.
GL1800 rotors 4.5mm thick new, junk at 3.5mm worn.
Stopping 900-1,000 lbs of bike & rider obviously can be accomplished by either.
I know technically it's a mis-application but c'mon.... DOUBLE the price for .5mm initial thickness?? Might as well run a car tire too! Grin Grin Grin
Logged

'13 F6B black-the real new Valkyrie Tourer
'13 F6B red for Kim
'97 Valkyrie Tourer r&w, OLDFRT's ride now!
'98 Valkyrie Tourer burgundy & cream traded for Kim's F6B
'05 SS 750 traded for Kim's F6B
'99 Valkyrie black & silver Tourer, traded in on my F6B
'05 Triumph R3 gone but not forgotten!
franco6
Member
*****
Posts: 1029


Houston, TX


« Reply #16 on: September 13, 2010, 08:12:06 AM »

From what I've read the difference in thickness is:
Valk rotors 5mm thick new, junk at 4mm worn.
GL1800 rotors 4.5mm thick new, junk at 3.5mm worn.
Stopping 900-1,000 lbs of bike & rider obviously can be accomplished by either.
I know technically it's a mis-application but c'mon.... DOUBLE the price for .5mm initial thickness?? Might as well run a car tire too! Grin Grin Grin

can it be assumed then that using the valk rotors to 3.5 mms is alright?
Logged

Enjoy the ride!
gordonv
Member
*****
Posts: 5760


VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #17 on: September 13, 2010, 08:58:24 AM »

Thanks guys. Yes: I knew GL1800 rotors was what I was asking about. As Ricky stated: the rotor difference is the arrow rotation indicator. Is this the ONLY difference? RP: I'll check my service manual for the Wing rotor service limit.
Thanks Sandy.  The only reason I was asking was, thinking logically (always dangerous), if the wing rotor starts out thinner and has a limit thats thinner than a Valk rotor, and there's no problem running the wing rotor to its limit, there there should be no problem running the Valk rotor to the Wing limit before you change it.
-RP

That's assuming that they are made out of the same grade steel.

Logged

1999 Black with custom paint IS

Ricky-D
Member
*****
Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #18 on: September 13, 2010, 09:00:22 AM »

There are a couple of things regarding rotors that are important when considering wear.

Most important is the possibility of the rotor tearing when braking hard. I mean actually tearing the rotor apart because the forces exceed the ability of the rotor to stay together.

Second in my mind is the ability of the rotor to handle the heat building up when braking hard. That's one reason there are holes in the rotor. To help eliminate the heat. The thinner the rotor the less heat absorbing quality.

I don't consider that the caliper pistons will ever pop out due to too thin a rotor. To me, that can't happen.

***
Logged

2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
Daniel Meyer
Member
*****
Posts: 5492


Author. Adventurer. Electrician.

The State of confusion.


WWW
« Reply #19 on: September 13, 2010, 09:27:13 AM »

.... if the wing rotor starts out thinner and has a limit thats thinner than a Valk rotor, and there's no problem running the wing rotor to its limit, there there should be no problem running the Valk rotor to the Wing limit before you change it.
-RP

YMMV of course...but I've run my Valk rotors to WAY under the limits...guess I need to get around to changing them. I'll be doing the wing rotors as well.
Logged

CUAgain,
Daniel Meyer
Pages: [1]   Go Up
Send this topic Print
Jump to: