Advice on rear wheel

[gordonv]

Looking for some assurance/advice/confirmation on a rear wheel swap out. I bought a spare rear rim, casual inspection shows it came complete, disc/bearings/dampeners (I figure also the inside collar between the bearings). Other than putting it in the garage, I have not inspected the rim, bearings, disc, nothing. I did this so I can go the Darkside, mount the CT, and when ready, just swap out the 2 rims, and be up and running in no time at all. But the more I read, the more I think I should be doing some or all of the following, as possible. But how much is overkill?

1999 IS, bought with 45K used at dealer, drove home and now almost at 50K. Unknown history, haven't been able to find original owner. Daily driver, all weathers, Vancouver West Coast (dirty, no time to clean, too busy riding).

I figured maybe I should do the following, wether it needs it or not. But the more work involved, will mean it may not be able to be done in a single day before I run out of time, or need more parts.

replace seals and lube where needed

Polish-clear coat the rim
Billet valve stem
Assurance TT 205/60, balancing beads
nut cage mod
dual roller bearing mod - bearing seal, collar cut down (2 collars, - 0.26 & - 0.282)
rear drive - nothing, except to lube
drive shaft - lube, seal, clip
universal - inspect, lube

Thank you in advance.

[NITRO]

That should do you fine. I switched mine out with a spare wheel and CT last week. My final drive was shot, too, so it took a little more time than expected to complete the swap. I switched to the double 5204 bearings in the spare wheel since I had no idea how it was treated in the past.

Make sure you change the 3 o-rings in the final drive as well.

[Ricky-D]

Regarding bearings it doesn't matter about the past history of the bearing.

You can feel a bad bearing with your finger.

If it feels smooth and consistent there would be no reason to change it.

***

[gordonv]

Thanks guys.

Am thinking a couple of things on painting the rim.

Here is a duplicolor product.
http://www.duplicolor.com/products/shadow/?WT.mc_id=Promo1Marquee

And an ACE Tourer that got the rims powder coated. I'm thinking of the Red to match the bike, or if too much $, then just black (photos on 2nd page).
http://hondashadowacetourer.yuku.com/topic/11055?page=1

[R J]

It seems like I read somewhere that the disc rotor, they were different from STD, Tourer vs I-State.

What was the wheel off of?  From your aviator it looks like it is for an I-State.

Ya might want to do a trial fit.   I'm assuming you did get the rotor with the spare wheel.

[gordonv]

Hi RJ,

Yes, I did all the research before getting the rim, actually after too since it came with the rotor, to make sure that they both would fit my IS. I forget the actual details, but it is a newer wheel and should fit my IS without having to swap the rotor with the bikes.

Heres some info from the txt file I made about all I found on the rotors.

Standard     1997 - 1999  Rear Brake Rotor is 43251-MT8-000
Standard     2000 - 2003  Rear Brake Rotor is 43251-MBY-671

Tourer       1997 - 1999  Rear Brake Rotor is 43251-MT8-000
Tourer       2000         Rear Brake Rotor is 43251-MBY-671

Interstate   1999 - 2001  Rear Brake Rotor is 43251-MBY-671


I/S wheels won't work unless ya take the disc and the caliper with it.

The wheels are all interchangeable. Differences: In 2000 and later, the rotor was different and the alignment with the caliper was off a bit. In 2001, all the wheels were polished and the area behind the rotors were just a cast surface. If you use your old rotor on the new wheel, you'll be fine.
If your bike is a '97-'99, use the old style rotor and bolts.  '00-'03, use the new style.

Take care, Gordonv

[gordonv]

I mounted the CT on the rim last night by hand. Polished one side first to see how it would clean up (bearings fine), and there is a machined rim just below the spline flange side of the rim, which seems to have a machined groove in it, and it was sharp. Took skin off my thumb 3 times, shaved right off, stings but no blood.

I also scratched the rim with the tire irons, they would slide loose some times. Next time leave the rim on the ground so you can apply more preasure with your body, and also have 2 people to do the job. I think I would use the zip tie method the next time I do this (look up on youtube).

Now I think I'll just do a basic wheel swap, and worry about the whole rear end, either during the winter when it's off the road, or next year.


One other thing. I forgot to check the tire to see if there was any label/mark to show where the valve is to be in relation to the tire. Does anyone know if the CT Goodyear Assurance TT has one?

[R J]

Mine had a yellow mark.  but since you said you were going to run the beads, no worry, it will balance.   Might take a few more feet, but it will get there.

[gordonv]

Mine had a yellow mark. 

Now would the yellow mark be for the valve, or?