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Author Topic: Electrical need confirmation HELP  (Read 1609 times)
Kilroy
Member
*****
Posts: 106


Clearwater, Florida / Overland Park, KS


« on: September 22, 2010, 07:34:28 AM »

Hi All,
I am in the process of installing a Big Bike light bar so I have been messing around with the electrical on the Valk.  This process is taking me longer than expected and several of you have helped greatly but I have a new twist.

Here is what has happened,  the head lamp appeared to go out a day or so into the project.  Not a problem everything else was working fine, thought it was just a burnt out bulb.

Last night while trying to complete the light bar install wiring I tried to start the bike,  NOTHING at all.  Dead as a door nail.  Thought I might have drained the battery while screwing around with the wiring, and fuse box etc.  So I put some jumper cables on the battery and let it stand for awhile then tried to jump start. (car not running)..NOTHING!!!

So here is my present thought, (closer to a brain fart than a thought),  I need to do the starter swithch maintence again.  Have not done it in a couple  of years.  I will be doing this tonight.

Can you guys think of anything else this could be??  All ideas accepted.


Thanks again for all the help

Kilroy the lost
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X Ring
Member
*****
Posts: 3626


VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204

The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans


« Reply #1 on: September 22, 2010, 07:58:56 AM »

I hope you did not hook the light bar into the headlight wiring for power cause it runs through the start button and you could have melted it.  The only hookup for that is to use the headlight wiring to activate a relay that brings power from the battery or an auxiliary fuse block.  If you did hook up to the headlight wiring, check the start button and the main fuses.  You might have blown one.

Marty
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People are more passionately opposed to wearing fur than leather because it's safer to harass rich women than bikers.           
Kilroy
Member
*****
Posts: 106


Clearwater, Florida / Overland Park, KS


« Reply #2 on: September 22, 2010, 08:22:42 AM »

Thanks X Ring,  I hooked the light bar power up to the battery not the headlight.  I did use the aux for the other orange line from the switch.  I think that is ok.
Kilroy
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X Ring
Member
*****
Posts: 3626


VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204

The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans


« Reply #3 on: September 22, 2010, 10:30:47 AM »

On to the fuses then.  Check the main 30A fuse and the 55A fusible link.  Then check the fuses in the fuse panel.

Marty
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98valk
Member
*****
Posts: 13507


South Jersey


« Reply #4 on: September 22, 2010, 11:50:05 AM »

make sure u don't install a double ground by accident.  Shocked
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1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

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Kilroy
Member
*****
Posts: 106


Clearwater, Florida / Overland Park, KS


« Reply #5 on: September 22, 2010, 02:36:33 PM »

What would a double ground look like?
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98valk
Member
*****
Posts: 13507


South Jersey


« Reply #6 on: September 22, 2010, 04:51:05 PM »

it means make sure u don't ground the lights twice.  Don't remember exactly what I did, but I had two ground wires, no go, took one ground off and it worked. I'm not an electrician by trade, but I need to know enough for my job when working around and with 440v and 110v for the same piece of equipment.  So I might be using the wrong term.
have u seen chets circuits?

http://www.rattlebars.com/valkfaq/circuits.html
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
Kilroy
Member
*****
Posts: 106


Clearwater, Florida / Overland Park, KS


« Reply #7 on: September 22, 2010, 07:09:43 PM »

CA thanks, I got everything wired by the diagram and no go yet.  There are two wires coming from each of the 3.5 inch spots.  I thought they told me that the lights would not work if they were not grounded.  So with two wires from each lamp they  both got grounded.  I will take one off tomorrow and see what happens.

Thanks to everyone else, turned out that the 30 amp fuse, that I did not even know was there, had blown, replaced the fuse and the headlight bulb, all is well in paradise.
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Kilroy
Member
*****
Posts: 106


Clearwater, Florida / Overland Park, KS


« Reply #8 on: September 23, 2010, 06:46:26 PM »

Update:  Called Big Bike today and did some trouble shooting with their help.  Turns out that the switch is bad.  I will be talking with them again tomorrow and I am sure they will send me a new one.  Once I get that all will be well and lit. 

Thanks for all your help, this is the best web site.

Kilroy
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X Ring
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*****
Posts: 3626


VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204

The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans


« Reply #9 on: September 24, 2010, 02:22:21 AM »

That's what we're here for brother.

Marty
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Gryphon Rider
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Posts: 5227


2000 Tourer

Calgary, Alberta


« Reply #10 on: September 24, 2010, 03:43:13 PM »

Update:  Called Big Bike today and did some trouble shooting with their help.  Turns out that the switch is bad.  I will be talking with them again tomorrow and I am sure they will send me a new one.  Once I get that all will be well and lit.

I'm not sure how a bad spot light switch could cause the bike to not start and the headlight not to work.  If the switch is powered by the auxilliary circuit, the worst that should happen with a bad switch is grounding out the auxilliary circuit and blowing its 5A fuse.  Or if the unintentional ground has a lot of resistance, and thus flows less than 5A, it could drain the battery when the key is on, but so would all the other lights when the key is on.
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