retainer pin #15 rear brakes

[Matsumike]

boy, it seems I'm just full of dumb questions lately.  I am replacing pads on rear (97 tourer), and I can't seem to get the retainer pin #14 out   .  Took off the screw and using an allen wrench on the inner pin head, but it won't budge.

what am I doin' wrong?   Am I not holding my mouth just right, or is there a trick here?
Thanks......
(mechanics is not my strong point.. who woula' guessed!)
Mike  

[NCGhostrider]

I had trouble removing mine also..  use a good quality allen wrench...maybe one on a 3/8 socket drive...see if you can borrow a small electric impact..something weak!!!  You need the impact action possibly to break it loose, but not strip out the head.  Not getting it out is bad.... I fear you already know the end result of that.

I had to remove #11 (the bottom pin that goes threw the swingarm using heat a few years ago.. That bolt gets ample never seize on it now.   

BTW.. I think the bolt/pin you are referring to, is #14 on the fiche image below...it is accurate to my I/S ..not sure if your bike is different..thus the different number.. 

Some of the other riders may have a different/better approach.   Good luck!

[Matsumike]

ya, you're right, its #14..  I was hoping it was just me, but maybe someone used locktight on it 
I have T handle allens, and it fits nice and snug, which will usually break anything loose.  I put some WD-40 in there and will let 'er sit for awhile, otherwise...
well, I'd hate to ahve to take the whole thing in to a mechanic, I was going to just make this easy! 

[Matsumike]

GOT IT OUT!   Thanks

[GOOSE]

i hope you put some never seize on it this time

[Matsumike]

Will do!   BTW, do you know the part # OEM for the 97 Tourer Rear Brakes?  My dealer gave me 06435-MZO-006 and they seem rather large (thick) to go in there....

[NCGhostrider]

I don't know the part number...  Did he give you aftermarket or Honda pads?   New pads will be considerably thicker, but with the pistons compressed completely, they should go in, and not drag on the disk.   

I am sure someone on the board has the part number and will post it.

BTW, be certain, you are compressing the caliper pistons completely before attempting to install new pads.
 
Usually, you can remove the cap from the master cylinder, and slowly (ok, it takes some force) press the pistons back into the the caliper, the excess fluid will return to the master cylinder, and run over, if fluid was added between the time the last pads were installed and when you replaced them.  Use the old brake pad as a buffer between whatever you are using to press the pistons in with, so as not to scuff or scratch or damage the pistons.  You will have to get both in pretty much simultaneously, as doing one at a time will probably cause the other push out.

Many people prefer to crack the bleeder screw open and compress the pistons allowing the excess fluid to flush.  In fact, this is the proper method, as it does not force fluid back thru the master cylinder.   But you have to bleed the system afterward.

On non abs systems, I do the former, fluid returns to the master cylinder naturally after the releasing the brake pedal, thus it is probably ok.  Been doing it for years that way.

I apologize for the long diatribe, but wanted to cover the bases and make sure you had given the new pads the room they needed.   You might check Hondaline directs website and see if they have a part number listed. 

See ya,
 Craig

[MP]

Just be careful not to overflow the reservoir.  Suck some out if needed.  Otherwise, if the fluid touches paint, you will be repainting!

MP

[paps350]

Regarding rear brake part number. I just installed a set on my 97 so I looked at my receipt to get part number and my receipt lists the part number for front pads. Could the parts guy at the dealer just entered the wrong info into the computer or did I install front pads on the rear? My question is. Is it possible to install fronts on the rear?

[Bone]

Just put these on 2 weeks ago. The pistons will have to be compressed.

06435-MZO-006

[Matsumike]

I did finally find a part number on Hondaline Direct and I have the right pads for rear OEM.  I am just goping to bleed the system and take the pistons out for a good clenaing while I'm in there.  Thanks for all the replies.

As far as number for front pads I don't know but you might try Hondaline direct as they list the parts numbers, and front a rear are listed seperatley

[Colin]

Regarding rear brake part number. I just installed a set on my 97 so I looked at my receipt to get part number and my receipt lists the part number for front pads. Could the parts guy at the dealer just entered the wrong info into the computer or did I install front pads on the rear? My question is. Is it possible to install fronts on the rear?

IIRC the only difference between front and rear pads is that the rear pads have about 2mm more friction material on them. As a result fronts work fine on the rear just you will get a few less miles on them before they need replacing.

[bogator]

 I just instaled front pads on my 98, ordered them from Jake Wilson 68.00 shipping included,best price I could find.. Honda wanted 49.50 for each side. they were ebc sintered, my 2 cents.

[Valkpilot]

I just instaled front pads on my 98, ordered them from Jake Wilson 68.00 shipping included,best price I could find.. Honda wanted 49.50 for each side. they were ebc sintered, my 2 cents.

My personal experience is that EBC sintered pads will eat up OEM rotors and you may be looking at rotor replacement at the next brake change.

When this happened to me, I switched to EBC rotors and used OEM sintered pads.  The pads didn't last 1000 miles.  Put EBC pads and have had no problems.

If you have OEM rotors, use OEM pads.
If you have EBC rotors, use EBC pads.

This assumes the use of sintered pads, not organic pads.

Just a recommendation based on experience, but I think you'll find that many here agree with it.