Rear end/drive maintainence advice

[BF]

Well....it seems as though I need a new left/rear wheel bearing.  See my thread here....

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,21110.0.html

Bike has 44,441 miles on it and I'm not sure if anything has ever been done to it before. 

Trying to figure out what all else I should do as far as needed maintainence items (and parts needed) while I'm there with the wheel off. 

Along with replacing the left and right rear wheel bearings, I know I should also inspect and lube the splines.  I've never done that before (I've never taken the rear wheel off either...dealer replaced the last tire that was put on), so I've been reading up on how to do all of this.   

This is my parts list so far......

The three o-ring kit from Carolina Bike and Trike

Thrust washer (#5)

Right wheel bearing (#18)

Left wheel bearing and dust seal (#17 and #19)



Bel-ray grease http://www.belray.com/bel-ray-waterproof-grease



.....(or is there something else recommend?)

Besides lots of time and patience, is there anything else I'll need?

Also.....should I go ahead and try to replace the u-joint while I'm there, or should I save that for later? 

[Jess from VA]

Probably time for new wheel dampners (#1 in the diagram).  Be careful, there is a discrepancy in how they are sold based on bike year, you want the complete kit in one part, not the two-part order.

I would not use a left bearing on the left, I'd use a right double row bearing on the left, and you have to get a collar spacer (#4) cut down as per the directions.  http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/5204_bearing_mod.pdf           If you do, don't order a new dust seal #19. 

If you have not replaced the OE 2-piece valve stems with 90* metal stems, it's time you did if the tire will be off the wheel.

You may not be able to get a U-joint from Honda (HDL) until Feb '11 (and if this turns out to be your noise rather than the left wheel bearing you'll have a wait)  And if the U-joint is not damaged, no reason to replace it.

Have some synthetic 80-90wt rear end dope to change when the pumpkin of off.

[Chrisj CMA]

BF.....If you can get the bike up to Crestview, I will learn you how to do all this......its realy not that bad......I have the lift and adapter and all tools neeeded.....we can take the wheel up to autozone, they loan out a good slide hammer to remove the bearing

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

Also check pinoin cup and driveshaft and clean and lube both ends of shaft. It wouldn't hurt to remove U-joint and lube engine end of it too.

[BF]

Thanks chris......right now, it sounds really ugly/nasty and I wouldn't attempt to ride it to C'view.  Alot of getting this done greatly depends on my shift schedule (rotating  ).  Since I'm in Cinco Bayou and if I take it somewhere, I think I can take mostly back roads fairly safely to any shop that I'd be willing to do buisness with if I decide not to do it myself. 

First thing Monday, I'm going to call around starting with Honda on Beal and price it out and see what a couple different shops say.  Then I'll either order parts and pieces or take it to one of the local shops around here. 

I'll know more Monday. 

[Earl in Pensacola]

BF!!  You REALLY need to get your bike up to Chris!!!  I can't over-express this!!  Borrow a trailer!!  If there was a way, I'd be more than willing to loan you my trailer. 
Chris is the one person that you can absolutley trust to "DO IT RIGHT!!"  He knows the bike and all the specs inside and out.  Chris is the one that found the problem with my '97 Tourer when no one else could.  My learning curve has really slowed plus my physical strength has declined considerable over the past 70 years  but Chris is a VERY patient (and strong) person.  He will help you learn to do the work the right way and for yourself.

[Chrisj CMA]

Wow Earl...thanks..............Hey BF........If you cant get it up here......I could possibly throw the lift in the truck and work on it at your place.  How are you set on tools.......would you have most everthing?

[gordonv]

I'm also looking at doing my rear end also (started with a car tire), and have also been looking into all that needs/should be done at the same time. Everything seems to have been said except for one more items.

Exhuast gaskets.

And someone also posted Carolina Bikes should also have them for a good price, which was too late for me.

With regards to the spacer collar, I bought an axle/collar from pinwall. I went to quickly thou, I was going to buy 2, combine shipping, get them both cut down at a shop (hopefully 2 would be cheaper to do), and sell the extra one after I was done. I was also going to get it cut down for the shield.

[Dave Weaver]

You really don't need the exhaust gaskets.  Sometimes when loosening the exhaust bolts, the studs break and you'll be replacing them, also.  Remove the nuts that attach exhaust to frame at rear of bike and use a 2x4 to pry and hold the pipes out of your way.

[GOOSE]

for goodness sake, do not take the exhaust off. you can easilly remove the tire, final drive, and the drive shaft without taking the exhaust off.  look to the tech board.... it will show you several good ways to do this.  mine is setting on my lift right now while i wait for my new drive shaft, and pinion cup.  the factory left the pinion cup nut loose, and it ate this stuff up.

[wild6]

+1 for not taking the exhaust off.
I have a tourer and take off the plastic saddlebags, pop the top of the shocks off their mounting bushings and raise/lower the bike as needed to access all the bolts.

[MP]

for goodness sake, do not take the exhaust off. you can easilly remove the tire, final drive, and the drive shaft without taking the exhaust off.  look to the tech board.... it will show you several good ways to do this.  mine is setting on my lift right now while i wait for my new drive shaft, and pinion cup.  the factory left the pinion cup nut loose, and it ate this stuff up.

+1.  No need to TOUCH the exhaust.  Leave it alone.

MP

[gordonv]

So there is 2 methods to remove the axle.

Either remove the exhuast, or remove the shock bolt, to get the clearance to get the axle out?

I understand the 2x4 method of prying the exhuast out of the way enough, but knowing my luck, I would break something. Seems to loosen the exhuast would be an act of last resort, and get some studs if you do it this way.

[Bone]

I'm on my 3rd CT and never touched the exhaust. I've checked the exhaust studs for loose ones.
I wait for riding season to end to attack those kind of jobs (exhaust studs).
98 Tourer