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Author Topic: oops, no clutch  (Read 1588 times)
stormrider
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Posts: 1147


Kinsey, AL


« on: October 04, 2010, 06:13:08 PM »

well, I started to go riding and noticed I had very little clutch. pulled in all but about a 1/4" from th e bars before it engaged. Fluid was way low. Got her back to the house and proceded to remove the screws to add fluid. 1st came out easy, then me being the master carpenter I am, stripped the other. Had to get an impact wrench to disengage the other screw. Got it done, filled with fluid and worked like "normal".

Well, normal to me was the clutch dis-engaging and re-engaging about 2/3 the way out. Or 1/3 of the way in it would dis-engage and the same position to re-engage.

Then I decide it's past time to clean the old out and put in new. I let it drain a little then stopped the flow and wiped out the rest and any residue. Re-filled with new fluid and purged the line till new fluid came out the drain line. Filled the resevoir to the desired level, replaced the cover and took a test ride.

I was surprised when I went to let out the clutch lever, the clutch didn't engage until the lever was nearly all the way out. I don't feel like there is any air in the line or is there? Your thoughts.
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Skinhead
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Posts: 8727


J. A. B. O. A.

Troy, MI


« Reply #1 on: October 04, 2010, 06:21:21 PM »

Bleed it and see what happens.
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Troy, MI
GOOSE
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Posts: 704


D.S. #: 1643

Southwest Virginia


« Reply #2 on: October 04, 2010, 09:10:36 PM »

GET A MITI-VAC, AND USE THAT.  GUARANTEE YOU STILL HAVE AIR IN THERE.  GOOD LUCK. Roll Eyes
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Warlock
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Posts: 1280


Magnolia, Ms


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« Reply #3 on: October 04, 2010, 09:27:41 PM »

well, I started to go riding and noticed I had very little clutch. pulled in all but about a 1/4" from th e bars before it engaged. Fluid was way low. Got her back to the house and proceded to remove the screws to add fluid. 1st came out easy, then me being the master carpenter I am, stripped the other. Had to get an impact wrench to disengage the other screw. Got it done, filled with fluid and worked like "normal".

Well, normal to me was the clutch dis-engaging and re-engaging about 2/3 the way out. Or 1/3 of the way in it would dis-engage and the same position to re-engage.

Then I decide it's past time to clean the old out and put in new. I let it drain a little then stopped the flow and wiped out the rest and any residue. Re-filled with new fluid and purged the line till new fluid came out the drain line. Filled the resevoir to the desired level, replaced the cover and took a test ride.

I was surprised when I went to let out the clutch lever, the clutch didn't engage until the lever was nearly all the way out. I don't feel like there is any air in the line or is there? Your thoughts.
Tie your clutch handle against your bar and let it sit over night. If you have any air it will bleed .
David
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wild6
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Posts: 251


(Old enough to know better)

Vernon, NJ


« Reply #4 on: October 05, 2010, 12:50:33 AM »

I know it's hard to tell on the clutch, but does the feel seem mushy before disengagement?  If so, you've got air.  However, I think that if there was air, it would disengage further down (toward the handlebar) after the air was compressed.

Got my 98 tourer four years ago with 17k miles on it.  My clutch engages when lever is almost all the way out (in the last inch of travel).  Hasn't changed in 70k miles.  Feels firm, grabs fine and shifting's smooth.  I bleed the system about every 2 years.
« Last Edit: October 05, 2010, 01:02:03 AM by wild6 » Logged


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stormrider
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Posts: 1147


Kinsey, AL


« Reply #5 on: October 05, 2010, 06:07:53 AM »

I know it's hard to tell on the clutch, but does the feel seem mushy before disengagement?  If so, you've got air.  However, I think that if there was air, it would disengage further down (toward the handlebar) after the air was compressed.

Got my 98 tourer four years ago with 17k miles on it.  My clutch engages when lever is almost all the way out (in the last inch of travel).  Hasn't changed in 70k miles.  Feels firm, grabs fine and shifting's smooth.  I bleed the system about every 2 years.

That's what I'm saying. Grabs good when letting out in the last 1 to 3/4" of travel. And David, I'll try that as well. Thanks.
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Freedom will ultimately cost more than we care to pay but will be worth every drop of blood to those who follow and cherrish it.
Jack
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Posts: 1889


VRCC# 3099, 1999 Valk Standard, 2006 Rocket 3

Benton, Arkansas


« Reply #6 on: October 05, 2010, 08:13:46 AM »

I changed out my clutch master cylinder this weekend.  Pumped it down and now have a strong clutch and it releases at about 1 1/2 inch from full out position.  Previously, it had released about an inch from the bar.
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PhredValk
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Posts: 1531


Edmonton, Alberta, Canada


« Reply #7 on: October 05, 2010, 08:48:38 AM »

Almost fully out sounds right. I had to get the Kuri GL1800 adjustable levers to get the friction point closer to the bar. Seems the clutch and brake were designed by some guy with HUGE hands...
Fred.
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Joe Hummer
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VRCC #25677 VRCC Missouri State Representative

Arnold, MO


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« Reply #8 on: October 05, 2010, 08:59:19 AM »

I just replaced my clutch and clutch spring and now my clutch engages almost immediately (at bars) and disengages around the 1/4 pull position.  Prior to the work, clutch would engage around the 1/4 from the bars...and disengage about the same as after.  (Disengage is determined the point where motor can be revved without much change in speed.  Engage is where you start to feel the bike wanting to pull forward.) 

Joe
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1999 Valkyrie Interstate
You pay for the whole bike, why not use it Jerry Motorman Palladino
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