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croaker
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« on: October 26, 2010, 03:27:40 PM » |
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Just picked up my 2001 1500C ten days ago. Going thru the Clymers and checking out some of the issues with the bike. The choke cable is really stiff to operate. I've already opened the left switch housing because the signal switch was not working properly. I cleaned and lubed so that the signal switch now works. I can't find a spot where the cable might be binding. It looks to me that this design is asking a bit much. To operate the SE valves on all six carbs, a handlebar mounted choke seems inadequate. I'd rather have two manually operated chokes, one for each bank of carbs. Has anyone modded their Valkyrie this way? Is there a common technique for starting the bike without the choke?
**The other issue I have is that the previous owner installed an accessory chrome light bar in front. Looks like a quality item, but he must have messed up the wiring because the rear turn signals are not functioning at all and the front signals have one on as a running light and the other dark, so I know something is mucked. Wiring and wiring diagrams are beyond my pay grade so a painful visit to the local dealer is my next step.
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SCain
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« Reply #1 on: October 26, 2010, 03:44:16 PM » |
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You may want to verify if the cables are not binding, when everything is free the system works great. You could disconnect the cable from the left bar to the carbs and make sure its free, and check the cable from the left bank to the right to see if its free also, it also could be the Enrichment Valves are a little gummed up. Just remember when you push the lever down until it stops it only taking up the slack in the cable, then you feel alittle resistance when you push it down the rest of the way. I don't know of anyone that has modified the carbs to accept two levers.
For the light bar, you may just want to start over with the wiring to make sure it is correct, check the Rattlebars site for some simple wiring diagrams for foglights, sometimes a simple diagram can make the job easy.
I am sure others will chime in.
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Steve  |
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Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
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« Reply #2 on: October 26, 2010, 03:51:16 PM » |
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I broke my choke cable once. The one that comes from the handlebars, while waiting on a replacement I used a flatblade screwdriver to slide the choke bar on the left side to move the choke slides. It was pretty easy to do. After installing the new cable the lever was much easier to operate.
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Pete
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« Reply #3 on: October 26, 2010, 03:53:02 PM » |
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On a warm day just leave the choke of and start the bike.
On cool/cold days you will need the choke. Full on and ease off as quick as you can as rpms remain stable. Leave the throttle alone until the choke is off.
I also do not know of anyone changing it(choke lever).
Wiring is not that hard if you have a schematic, get at it.
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Gryphon Rider
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Posts: 5227
2000 Tourer
Calgary, Alberta
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« Reply #4 on: October 26, 2010, 03:55:28 PM » |
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Hmm...
1. The turn signals don't work and only one front running light works.
2. I don't know jack about electrical wiring.
3. The previous owner put on a light bar.
4. Signal lights use wires. Light bars use wires.
5. The light bar must be the problem!
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Thunderbolt
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« Reply #6 on: October 26, 2010, 04:04:45 PM » |
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croaker
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« Reply #7 on: October 26, 2010, 04:07:26 PM » |
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Here's what I did when I installed my HD bars and controls, thereby losing the choke at the bar. Shown in the disengaged postition, works better than OEM. The first pic is "work in progress" and the second is the completed job.   John, yeah that is a great solution.  I think I will attempt something similar in the next few weeks. Thanks for the pics! |
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croaker
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« Reply #8 on: October 26, 2010, 04:09:27 PM » |
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Robert
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« Reply #9 on: October 26, 2010, 10:51:40 PM » |
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Being in Cali even Montery if you do jets and adjust the needles you wont need the choke on till say 45 and then only lightly. The bikes are lean from the factory.
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“Some people see things that are and ask, Why? Some people dream of things that never were and ask, Why not? Some people have to go to work and don’t have time for all that.”
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Alaskamike
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Posts: 101
gittin her done!
Wasilla, Alaska
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« Reply #10 on: October 27, 2010, 11:25:03 PM » |
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I 've heard from many new owners of the Valk that the choke is hard to push, or doesn't work at all. Usually this is a case of not engaging the choke all the way down. It's easy to see, just watch the slides on each side of the carbs and see if they are moving.
First time I did it felt like I was going to break the lever for sure.
As far as starting, it depends. And I say that because it not only depends on temps but humidity and elevation as to how the Fat Lady starts. Add to that, each bike has it's own temperment. You can have two bikes next to eachother, both turned off at the same time a the same place, and one will need full choke to start and the other maybe even none at all.
That said, I do think the OEM setup is lame. Could have had a decent heavy duty lever at least
Go figure.............
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"If you don't ride in the rain.... you don't ride"  |
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GOOSE
Member
Posts: 704
D.S. #: 1643
Southwest Virginia
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« Reply #11 on: October 28, 2010, 06:10:30 PM » |
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hey john... the choke set-up looks pretty cool. how about a few more pics, and some detailed instructions on how you did this? thanks, john.
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The Anvil
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« Reply #12 on: July 18, 2011, 03:28:16 PM » |
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hey john... the choke set-up looks pretty cool. how about a few more pics, and some detailed instructions on how you did this? thanks, john.
Yeah seriously, some more of that!!! |
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Boxer rebellion, the Holy Child. They all pay their rent.
But none together can testify to the rhythm of a road well bent.
Saddles and zip codes, passports and gates, the Jones' keep.
In August the water is trickling, in April it's furious deep.
1997 Valk Standard, Red and White.
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John Schmidt
Member
Posts: 15260
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #13 on: July 18, 2011, 04:58:59 PM » |
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Goose, sorry I didn't respond before now. I never went back and read the old post. Here's basically what I did, don't really have anymore pics. After removing the OEM choke cable, I scrounged up some SS to make my "stuff" from. Notice the horzontal piece the lever is attached to, you'll see it's cut in a couple places top and bottom to clear things such as the carb cover on top. Note the two small phillips head bolts at the end...they're bolted to the choke slider at that point. You do have to drill holes in the slider but those bolts are tiny due to space available under that linkage cover. The lever bracket is simply an "L" shaped piece of SS bolted to the long bolt/rod that holds the carbs together. On the front end of that rod, I backed off the nut slightly and tapped the rod toward the rear. That gave me enough slack at the rear to bolt the "L" bracket in place. I drilled that bracket to mount the lever with the black knob on it. If you use a short swivel bolt with a nylock nut, you can snug up that nut just enough so it will hold whatever position you place the choke in. Works great, less apt to snap a cable like the OEM mess they designed, and you can reach it while sitting on the bike. I also think it looks kinda cool....but I'm prejudiced.  Hope this helps. If needed, I can try to get some close-ups of the bracket but it's really a rather simple setup. |
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The Anvil
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« Reply #14 on: July 19, 2011, 05:20:46 AM » |
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Yeah I've been deciphering the pic and that's pretty much what I figured. Looks good. Thanks.
I really don't get why Honda put the cursed thing on the handlebars in the first place.
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Boxer rebellion, the Holy Child. They all pay their rent.
But none together can testify to the rhythm of a road well bent.
Saddles and zip codes, passports and gates, the Jones' keep.
In August the water is trickling, in April it's furious deep.
1997 Valk Standard, Red and White.
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SANDMAN5
Member
Posts: 2176
Mileage 65875
East TN
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« Reply #15 on: July 19, 2011, 05:39:02 AM » |
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Since I changed my slow jets to 38's I haven't used my
choke once. Just a thought.
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"Evolution" is a dying religion being kept alive with tax dollars.  |
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Brian
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« Reply #16 on: July 22, 2011, 06:05:22 PM » |
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My OEM cable broke shortly after I got my bike running and did the manual thing till a new one came in. I was thinking of a manual arrangement along these lines and you provided it can be done and looks great too. I will not buy another one after seeing this. Great job John. Thanks for sharing.
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