Suspect slow jets clogged again

[RogerD]

Hello. I am a new member and have spent 10 hrs. reading posts on carb problems because my '01 Valk Std is running poorly at idle again. I say again because last summer it did the same thing and I took it to my local dealer (First Coast Honda in St. Augustine, FL) and they told me that my carbs needed cleaning. I agreed to have them clean them and also perform the 24k service. When I got it back it ran really good. I asked them how I could keep the carb problem from happening again and they said "ride it" or, if I had to leave it sit for a while, use Stabil. Well, I had to let it sit for about six weeks this summer, so I used the Stabil. When I started the bike again I had what I think is the same problem. I took it back to my dealer hoping it whoul be something a little less expensive and told them I didn't want to have to have the carbs cleaned again. They called me back and said they needed cleaning again but they would try injecting some Yamaha carb cleaner directly into the carbs and let it sit overnight. Then they would have to replace the spark plugs because the cleaner would foul the plugs. That made no sense to me but this information came from the person writing the work order and not a mechanic so I agreed with this less expensive fix. When I got it back I could not tell much difference. Information on my copy of the work order said the bike was better but not 100% because "pilot jets clogged". I talked to a friend and he steered me to VRCC. He suggested I try a couple of tanks of gas with Chevron Techron and if that did't work, try pulling the pilot jets and clean them and spray some cleaner in the orifice. He said that was a long shot but maybe.
I ran 2 bottles of Techron through it and then, because a lot of people here recommends Seafoam, I ran 2 bottles of that through it. Neither made any difference that I could tell.
I made a tool and (is my post to long Why can't I see what I'm typing without scrolling down?) removed #5 pilot screw. It looked OK to me but then I don't know what especially to look for. I put it back to the same number of turns out. 11/4
When idiling I pulled each plug wire one at a time. #2 and #6 shuts it down. The other 4 seem to make no difference even though I can hear the spark jumping when I pull the wires.. Is that possible? I mean, can it run on two cylinders? The right side exhausts doesn't get hot at idle untill the engine heats up. I guess I'll just bite the bullet and have them cleaned again. Any suggestions on this or how to prevent it from happening again? Stabil is not the answer. I will be glad to furnish more information but I need to figure why I'm having trouble seeing what I'm typing. Thanks for any thoughts. I think I'm expecting a miracle. RogerD

[Mr. Nuts]

Slow jets are accessed by dropping the bottom of the carb bowls. They are not difficult or expensive to replace but it does take some reading and searching to get ideas. Threads like this one can help but there are many others too:

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,19717.msg169713.html#msg169713

Lots of help here if you get stuck. So many of us have learned to do it cheaply and restore our good low speed preformance. Its good to try the techron and such, but if that doesn't work its time to roll up your sleeves and dive right in...

Yell if you need more help.

[Thunderbolt]

email me and I may be able to help. fsixrider(takethisout)@windstream.net  I have another bike to start on coming this weekend, but have corrected two of them so far.  I'm in Worthington Springs, near Gainesville.

[9Ball]

I've found that cleaning the slow jets is a crap shoot....and I always recommend replacing with new.  It's always difficult to tell if the old jets are truly clean and sometimes cleaning them can cause damage.

If you go to the trouble to pull the carbs, replace the jets with new....I hate doing the same job twice.

[Bone]

Stabil has worked for me on several bikes. It is not a cleaner. I make sure the gas in the carbs is treated by running a couple of tanks with Stabil added before any storage. Had a 85 Goldwing that plugged up if let sit a month.

[lee]

If you have to clean or replace the slow jets again,  make sure they clean the
tank and replace the screen this time.

[ricoman]

Clogged pilot jets? doubtful. Slow jets? yes
1 1/4 turns out doesn't cut it. They should be 2 to 2 1/4.
With today's ethanol a bike can't sit more than a few days or you get problems.
Try the seafoam again ( at least 4-6 oz. in the tank) and when you ride, try to keep going below 3000 rpm often to use the slow jets more than the high speed jets. it worked for me.

[Ricky-D]

To me it sounds as if your problem is more related to a synchronization problem.

Another thing I want to point out that disconnecting the spark plug wires is not good for the ignition.

It's not reasonable to expect your ailment is caused by multiple clogged jets.

Try a few tanks of gas from a different gas station.

Drain some gas from each float bowl to insure any collected crap is removed.

Insure the clamps that connect the carburetor to the intake runner are properly tight.

***

[98valk]

with all the snow last winter here in the northeast, my bike sat for 2 months with stabil. when the snow cleared, bike started right up and ran perfect.
I suggest u check the stock petcock diaphragm. it wears quickly and will not fully open and allow full fuel flow. I had problems for a yr, right after they started putting ethanol in the gas. I did all of the unusal checks, ignition, plugs, pilots, etc.
read somebody elses experiences similar to how my bike was running and I checked the diaphragm. that was the problem. no problems since. search my posts about installing a snubber in the vacuum line to the petcock which will greatly reduce wear.

[RogerD]

Thank you everyone for the quick response to my posts.

Mr. Nuts: I have read the post you mentioned and any others that came up when I searched “slow jets clogged”. I have read the “Fuel System” pages in the service manual several times and posts here that explain how to remove the jets without removing the carbs and the debate about it not being that much more difficult to remove them.

Thunderbolt: E-mail is on the way, I hope. I'm not sure what the “(take this out)” in the e-mail address is.

Bone: I ran enough gas treated with Stabil through the carbs that I think the gas left in them was treated. Did your 85 Wing plug with Stabil?

Lee: When I had the carbs cleaned last summer the dealer replaced the petcock. Where is the screen?

Ricoman: I',m with you on which jets might be clogged but I don't know enough about this to even be talking about it. From what I read in the service manual 1 ¾ out is the place to start but fine tuning has to be done from there. Is that not right? I may have messed up but, in the last tank full, I used a whole can (16 oz.). I have ridden at low RPM's for a month using Chevron Techron first and then Seafoam. I have used strong doses of both. I hope that hasn't damaged anything else.

RickyD: I do not often use the same gas station. I will try draining some gas from the bowls and check the clamps. I have read a lot of your 1000+ posts and have previously seen where you suggest draining the bowls and synching. I thought that “brilliant” troubleshooting technique of pulling the plug wires one at the time and numbers 1, 3, 4, and 5 not making a audible difference would make synching impossible. That shows how much I know (don't know) about it. Plus I don't have the tools (vacuum guages) needed. I'm glad you told me about pulling the plug wires being dangerous. Just for my info will you tell me why?

CAExhaustCoatings: I wish I had your luck with Stabil. My dealer replaced the petcock last summer. I will checkout your posts regarding the snubber.

Again, thank you all (that's ya'll where I come from) for taking time to respond to the same questions that have been asked many times before. I will keep ya'll informed about any progress. I would still like to know if it is actually running on two cylinders at idol as pulling the plug wires indicates.

[Bone]

The first winter I owned the wing the jets plugged. The guys at GWRRA all told me gas treatment was necessary for more than a months storage. Previously I was a HD rider and never had this problem. Not a problem since, I always look at the bottle before using. Guys were posting pictures of Stabil with crud in the bottles.

[98valk]

I would still like to know if it is actually running on two cylinders at idol as pulling the plug wires indicates.

changeout intake manifold o-rings. oem are buna-n and can dry out creating vacuum leaks.  get some viton ones. search the site.  might solve the problem.

[keepinon]

No suggestions on a fix, usually if Seafoam or Techron doesn't clear it up, time for a good cleaning.

But a suggestion on the fuel stabilizer, I have an old '80 naked 'Wing, like mentioned above, if it sets for a couple of weeks, the jets plug up. I have much better luck with a product called Pri-G fuel stabilizer. I find I can leave it sit a couple of months with no problems. It will even restore old fuel. You can find it at most marine dealers or on the 'net. Stabil didn't work well for me, but others I've talked to swear by it.

Just my experiences...

[stude31]

Roger,

I sent you a personal message...  Hang in their you will get it figured out...   

[ILcruiser]

Had the same problem with my VERY low mileage '99 that I bought this past summer.  After trying to clear it up unsuccessfully with Techron and Seafoam, I bit the bullet, pulled the carbs, cleaned them up and replaced the slow jets.  Problem solved!  Following suggestions on this board, I switched from the 35 oem slow jets to 38s, with a corresponding increase in the pilot opening to 2 1/2 turns.  Runs like silk, pulls like the hundred horses it is.  Good luck!

[John U.]

Roger,
If the bike will run above 3,000 rpm, at wide open throttle or with the choke on then slow jets are most likely the trouble.
You may as well buy a set of 38 slow jets, it sounds like you will surely need them. One correction to a previous post; the pilot screw will need to be set to about 1 3/4 turns out with 38 slow jets, 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 with 35s. The bike will run with a looser pilot screww setting, but the gas mileage will suffer.
The larger jet requires a tighter setting on the pilot screw.
The bowls can be removed and the
jets replaced without removing the entire carb bank. The tank and airbox
still need to be removed as well as the intake runners. Then hold one side of the carb bank
high as it will go with cord or bungees. It's easier if the bike is lifted. A stubby screw driver and a 90 degree ratchet driver will make life easier as well. The stock bowl screws are easy to bugger up, they can be replaced with hex head screws.

One of my bikes had a tank rust problem. Rust can find it's way past the petcock screen. If you have that problem a fuel filter is a good idea. Do a search on that for additional reading material. You can do a web search for tank cleaning, an inspection mirror and flashlight will tell you if that's your problem.

I've had good results with Marine Stabil, much better stuff in my opinion than the red Stabil. I use it year round.
Here is a link to one source of slow jets. You need the 21-38 , or 21-35 if you want to stick with the stock size. Sudco has them as well, Chapparel is a bit less expensive.
http://www.chaparral-racing.com/Product/keihin-slow-jet/SD-19005.aspx

[lee]

http://www.hdlparts.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=148816&category=MOTORCYCLES&make=HONDA&year=1998&fveh=3477

If a dealer sold you a new petcock because the slow jets were plugged, then you need to find
another dealer.  The screen is on the petcock.  Some times it comes out with the petcock,
but most of the time it stays in the tank.  If you were charged for just a petcock and not a new
screen then most likely he did not replace it.

Its just my opinion but if you have a problem with plugged jets and dirty carbs its a waste of time
to clean and rebuild them if you don't clean every thing in the fuel system before the carbs.
Tank, Petcock, Screen, and Lines.

If fuel sits in the carbs long enough to turn to varnish and plug things up,  then it has done the
same thing in the rest of the system.  So when you get it running and put in fresh gas the
varnish starts flaking off  and just plugs the carbs again.

[hueco]

I would just like to add my 2 cents. John U and others have said you can remove the carb bowls without taking them out of the bike. I am in the process of replacing my slow jets. I took the carb bank out. Every thing was loose anyway. Why not go ahead and pull carbs out. I had to bear down with all of my 240 lbs. on the screw driver to get those bowl screws loose. That is with the carbs out upside down and on the work bench. I can't see breaking those screws loose with the carbs in the bike. Trying to push up with limited space and no backup on the carbs. Glad I took them out. Made it a lot easier. Like I said. Just my 2 cents.

[stude31]

I would just like to add my 2 cents. John U and others have said you can remove the carb bowls without taking them out of the bike. I am in the process of replacing my slow jets. I took the carb bank out. Every thing was loose anyway. Why not go ahead and pull carbs out. I had to bear down with all of my 240 lbs. on the screw driver to get those bowl screws loose. That is with the carbs out upside down and on the work bench. I can't see breaking those screws loose with the carbs in the bike. Trying to push up with limited space and no backup on the carbs. Glad I took them out. Made it a lot easier. Like I said. Just my 2 cents.

I would have to agree with taking out the carb bank.  If it is "loose" then all you have to take off is the push/pull throttle cable and choke cable on the other side and tA dA!!!   I had tried to get one broke loose while carbs were still in the bike and it was a pain.   So the last two bikes I have worked on I have removed the carbs and also you might think about replacing with better screws such as these...  http://redeye.ecrater.com/p/5933936/carb-bowl-screws-valkyrie-gl1500c

They sure are worth it.

Anyhow... enjoy your day 

[RogerD]

Thank you guys for taking time to respond to my problem.

I am still confused about the pilot screw settings. I read in the service manual that after turning them out a certain amount to get it running, they still had to be tweaked with a tachometer to the final setting. Is that not necessary?

I was told by the dealer that cleaned the carbs last summer that the reason for him changing out the petcock was a vacuum leak. This was after he replaced all of the vacuum lines. I was just charged for the petcock. I didn't see a charge for a screen on my bill.

It seems to me that since the carbs were just cleaned last summer the bowl screws should not be hard to remove. I appreciate the debate about removing the carb bank completely or just raising one side. I will replace the bowl screws either way.

RickyD: I drained the bowls as you suggested. I let each one drain in a clear container. The gas looked fairly clean. Some very very small stuff (didnot look like rust) in a couple and in #2, #4, and #6 was a drop of water about 1/4” inch in diameter. I also checked the clamps. Didn't make a difference in how it ran.

Thunderbolt on this sight lives close to me and has offered to help. I am trying to coordinate a visit with him now. Will let you know what happens.

Still have not heard if running on two cylinders at idol is possible.

[9Ball]

It seems to me that since the carbs were just cleaned last summer the bowl screws should not be hard to remove. I appreciate the debate about removing the carb bank completely or just raising one side. I will replace the bowl screws either way.

It will be interesting to see just how easy they come out to verify that the dealer actually did remove them as they claimed or if they just flushed some cleaner through the carbs and didn't remove the bowls.  If they removed the bowls I would also expect to see evidence on the screws that they were removed since they tend to weld in place and take a JIS pattern tool and not a standard phillips screwdriver.  I would look for burrs, etc.

Just my suspicious nature based on having been screwed over by dealers and dealer mechanics in the past.  Nothing like doing all your own maintenance so you know it was done AND done right.

[Rocheux]

I am new too. Used to be on some other Valk board, but had to reg. new for this one, so I guess it's not the same one. I have been reading about this gasoline thing with E10 and if it goes to E15 we are in big trouble. I found that Stabil develops fine black threads in it. I think they runied an old Cushman carb I had. I called their tech line and the guy said not to worry about it. That it just "does that." Well I certainly don't want any fine strings in my gas so I don't use it anymore. If you are going to let it sit, there is a prod. that was advertised in Cycle World for a while, Ethanol 101 and it is at Walmart. Another is Sea Foam at Auto Zone. They are supposed to help with this, but I for one am DONE with Stabil.
Another idea is what I do. I get aviation fuel and drain all the gas out of my tank, then put 2 gals aviation fuel in it. It won't spoil and corrode like today's gasolines cuz they can afford to have some junk like that clog up a carb at 12,000 feet! So then I ride the bike a bit to make sure all the old fuel's gone out of the system and then park it for a while. I used to be able to ride 12 mos. a year when I lived in VA, but here in AZ it's too hot for a long time for this old duffer.
Rocky-98 Tourer

[9Ball]

The aviation fuel is an interesting idea, but one problem with your method is that unless you fill the tank to the top, then the inside surfaces of the tank will be exposed to the air and will allow condensation to form with temperature changes while in storage (not everyone has a heated, environmentally-controlled garage).  A partially full gas tank will provide an environment which would allow the tank to rust during storage.  To prevent this problem, you would have to top off the tank with av fuel, which might not be very cost effective.

Just wanted to express my opinion/concerns.

[gordonv]

My brother-in-law also mentioned adding aviation fuel to my gas tank for my old CM400T when I first got it, to clean out and degum the carbs. I've never heard anyone else using it. But he recommended one liter for every 4 liters of regular fuel (1 pint per gallon).

[John U.]

Hueco is right, getting the screws out of the carb bowls can be a pain. I found that if you get a right angle reatchet driver and the JIS screwdriver bits it's a little easier. Your mileage may vary. Here's a link to a source for the bits:
http://www.rjrcooltools.com/vessel.cfm

[9Ball]

My brother-in-law also mentioned adding aviation fuel to my gas tank for my old CM400T when I first got it, to clean out and degum the carbs. I've never heard anyone else using it. But he recommended one liter for every 4 liters of regular fuel (1 pint per gallon).

BTW, one liter is a little bit bigger than a quart....therefore it would be approximately 2 pints/gallon if 1:4 ratio.

1 qt = 0.946 liters
1 gal = 3.785 liters

[big turkey]

A friend had the same problem.

The one you described.

Smokinjoe had a botlle of Lucas Fuel Injector Cleaner on his bike.

5 oz. size, Long Story Short, the Bike has ran perfect every since.

I think that a bike can have a carbon deposit on a valve or two and along with

cleaning his carbs it reactivated the carbon deposits(GOT RID OF THEM) and the bike performed as reccomended after that.

Never had another problem after that.

try some Lucas Carb/Fuel Injector cleaner.

PS Greg had tried all those you mentioned above and they did not do the trick.

Lucas Did.

[big turkey]

I run a full bottle of STP in the Black Bottle Fuel injector cleaner through mine every oil change.

I also run Premium Fuel as well and that seems to keep problems away from my door step.

Runs like a champ, don't have a clue how many miles are on my spark plugs either.

Runs great.

AL

[Chiefy]

All the guys posting above me seem to know more than I.  But I did want to add one thing.  You said you put Stabil in before you stored it.  Did you dump it in the tank while it was parked in the garage, and then walk away?  You should have (and perhaps you did but you didn't say) added it at the gas station while filling up, then drive it a few miles to get some of the additive down into the carb bowls.

If you did that, then 1000 pardons.....................

[RogerD]

Thanks for the posts. I hope this is still alive since it has been so long since I updated you all.
Just to remind everyone I suspected the slow jets on my Valk were clogged. I had just had my dealer clean the carbs last summer.
I have removed the carb bank and pulled the high speed jets, slow jets and pilot screws. All carb parts were easy to remove and it was apparent that they had been disassembled recently. I let all jets soak in carb cleaner overnight and the looked just as clean before as after. I used new pilot screw o-rings and opened them 2 1/4 turns. I also used new intake o-rings when reassembling.
I also desmoged while I had it open. I used freeze plugs and high temperature epoxy on the top openings and on the bottom I cut the two bolt flange off of the tubes that were there and bent the tube over and flattened the bend and then filled the flange with epoxy. I checked the petcock screen and insured the petcock worked as it should with and without vacuum. All seemed to go well.
However, now the right side exhaust, when idling, sprays liquid from the weep hole that is just after where the header pipes connect to the muffler. Off idle, there is smoke.
I rode the bike for 30+ miles twice and still the same.
Does anyone have any ideas about this problem?
Thanks for any input.

[rogerthat]

If the liquid coming from the exhaust is gas, then it's too rich.  (If it's coolant-- oh oh!)  When I ran my screws out to just past 2-1/2 (after a #38 slow jet upgrade) I mosquito-fogged my garage.  Went in a half turn and that was the ticket.   And I fought those carbs for months before getting it right.

[Ricky-D]

The general consensus is that with #38 idle jets the screws usually need to be 1-1/4 to 1-3/4 turns out from gently seated.

That may help the liquid dripping and smoke problem.

If the liquid is in enough quantity and is occurring with frequency I would suggest picking it up with an eye dropper and collecting it in a bottle so you can, when you have enough, get a better idea of what it actually is. More than likely a combination of combustion products and some oil. Collecting it will help greatly in this regard.

I would attribute none of this to being connected to the desmog that you did.

If this is just been occurring with the cold weather and also if it's been rainy much I would think that will also play a part in this, to what extent I can't hazard a guess, but I think, still maybe some!

Blue smoke exhaust is always present especially if water is in the mix, checking the oil level would be one thing I'd suggest, always do it with the bike upright and don't screw the dip stick in. Slightly over fill should not represent a problem.

Personally I like to have the bike upright for synchronizing the carburetors. I never have heard any comments on this particular aspect of the process and am not sure whether or not it's important. Just a little side note here!

Is 30 miles enough to get the exhaust pipes and mufflers hot enough to get all the collected crap out? Good question. I think on a hot day it surely is enough, although on a cold day like I'm experiencing now, I'm not that sure. 30 miles of interstate would be enough on any kind of day!

***

[RogerD]

RickyD  I did not change to 38's. As far as I know they are still stock 35's. I will collect some fluid. Believe me, there is enough. I do have the bike upright when trying the sync or checking the oil. I will let you know what I find out about the fluid sample.

rogerthat, I am trying to determine what the fluid is as per RickyD's suggestion.

Thank you guys for the replies.

[Ricky-D]

I don't know where I got that #38 jet, my mistake!  They are now 2-1/2 turns or just past from gently seated.  

Has the lack of warm/hot pipes on the right side changed at all?

It probably would be a good thing to do a compression test on the motor to eliminate any motor problems.

Is the fluid a lot? Every time you start the bike?   Remove the radiator cap and see if you have any evidence of oil floating at the top.

With the bluish right side exhaust I would suggest turning in the idle screws a quarter of a turn on the right side only.

***

[RogerD]

   I would love to make this long story short but unfortunately that is not possible.

   I rode my Valk 40+ miles one day last week and thought the exhaust had cleared up some but knew it was lacking it's normal power. It shuddered when accelerating in any gear. And, when I got home, I noticed my right boot and pant leg were oil soaked. Looking under the bike I first thought the oil was coming from the rubber gasket between the head cover and the head. I cleaned it up and let it run in my shop for a while. Looking again I could see drops of oil forming on the two bolt heads that fasten the #1 exhaust header to the block. I tightened the bolts on all three exhaust headers but do not feel they were that loose. I pulled the plug on the air cleaner housing drain tube and approximately 3 to 4 teaspoons (maybe more than that from the looks of the picture below), of what I am pretty sure was gas, drained out. There has never been over a few drops come out of there before and I don' think that was gas. The pictures below are of oil droplets forming on the #1 cylinder exhaust header bolts (hard to see) and the liquid that came out of the crankcase vent tube.


   I tried another synch but could tell when I removed the vacuum plugs from the #1 and #3 intake runners there was no drop in rpm's like there was on the other 4 cylinders. I confirmed that there was spark too and through the #1 and #3 spark plugs. All plugs looked similar in color. I completed the synch anyway and again noticed a lot of oil had blown out the weep hole in the right side exhaust and that exhaust would smoke when the throttle position was increased. The pictures below are of the oil from the left side exhaust weep hole and water droplets from the right side (hard to see). I tried to upload a video of the bike  running to photostash but it must have been do large.


   As RickyD suggested, I did a compression test. I followed the instructions in the service manual. I used two gauges with the following averaged results:

#1   146
#2   164
#3   164
#4   165
#5   164
#6   161

   I then poured approximately 4cc's of oil through the #1 spark plug hole and the compression increased to 164psi. According to the service manual that indicated I should look at the cylinder, piston and rings.
   I also looked in the radiator and the fluid looked clean and green with only a few specs of something that I do not think was oil. I checked the oil and it looked clean with no milky color. It was a little overfull so I drained about ½ quart out to get  it too the center mark on the dipstick with the bike in the upright position and the dipstick not screwed in. I have had it in the upright position when attempting the synch also.
   I tried turning in the idle screws ¼ turn at  the time on the right side carbs until I had turned them in a total of 1 turn. I gave it plenty of time on each adjustment to let that adjustment take effect. They started a 2 ¼  turns out. That made no difference. I can only get #3 to pop pop---pop pop pop---pop pop and that is only with the choke on.
   I have checked and rechecked my desmog procedure and fairly confident I did it correctly. After removing the carb bank and looking at the cleanliness of the bowls and jets, I feel certain there are no clogged jets.
   I am having trouble believing that all of this is coincidence after the desmog. However, having worked in power plant maintenance for 25 years, I have seen stranger things.
   Any further help will be greatly appreciated. It looks like I may have a lot more work to do. I really appreciate ya'lls" input.

OBTW Thunderbolt has talked to me on the phone several times and has been a great help through the carb cleaning and desmog. Many thanks Terry

Roger

[grizs50]

One thing I can't seem to find in this thread, Have you personally replaced the spark plugs, It is possible you have 3 fouled plugs and that would certainly cause your rich condition. Just a thought!

Back to basics

You need, Fuel, Air, Fire and Timing for an engine to run, Pulling the plug wires doesn't prove whether the plugs are firing. Plugs are cheap and it's worth a try.

[RogerD]

Grizs50, Thanks for the reply. I have not personally changed the plugs. My dealer changed them in October. See my first post in this thread. I have however confirmed that there is fire too and through the plugs. See my last post. I have a new set of plugs on hand and will try that.
It seems to me compression has to be in the "back to basics" information. I think after doing the compression test that I don't have proper compression on the #1 cylinder.
Your input is appreciated.
Roger

[Ricky-D]

You're correct Roger.  The #1 cylinder is not up to snuff. It's not so bad that it shouldn't be carrying it's load however, or at least some part.

The fluid collecting on the exhaust studs is a worrisome thing for sure.  Have you looked all around that close area for where it may be coming from. Can you positively eliminate the head gasket leaking the fluid.

Collecting the liquid in a bottle with a eye dropper or similar will allow a better look at the composition of the fluid, especially if allowed to sit for a time.

If the #1 cylinder is dead and is simply an air pump, that would/could be a source of liquid and dripping off the exhaust flange studs if that is the case it should be still pretty much gasoline that has gone through the motor without ignition. That only if the exhaust is leaking there at the head where the flange bolts up. Main thing here is to insure there is no antifreeze present and the head has not blown a head gasket.

Has there been work done to the right side cylinder head where head removal has occurred. Has a valve adjustment been done to the right side cylinder head?

I suggest that you take a hard look at the right side carburetor assembly after the work had been performed.

What I mean is to positively insure that what has been done is correct. Look at each slide inside the carburetor for failure to work properly. Make sure they are free to slide up and down, no vacuum leaks from damage or improper sealing, cracked tower, you know, everything has to be working perfectly, no less.
Look at the butterfly valves to be sure they are turning in unison with all the rest. That they are all installed properly and doing what they are intended to do.

The liquid that is coming out the exhaust is collected liquid so you cannot judge much by appearances but you must think it is the same from the #1 cylinder.  The reason for the quantity is that it will collect inside the muffler and then spew out at the time it gets to be a larger amount.  Regardless of that however is that it is too much liquid and seems to be the result of non combustion on the right side.

You should try to determine if it is all three cylinders on the right side or just the #1 cylinder that is not firing. Three new plugs are cheap so that suggestion has credibility and ought to add to the information base here!

Do that! See if any heat is generated on the right side pipes. It's important to narrow things down to get a handle on the problem.

It would not be a normal occurrence for all to be happening to the three right side cylinders if the problem where ignition related.  Simply pulling a plug while the motor is running will be indicative of whether or not a cylinder is contributing to the idling effort at that time and not on whether that cylinder is firing or not.  So a "no change" when pulling a plug helps a little in the information area but is not a definitive indicator.

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[roboto65]

Along the lines of checking to see if the cylinder is firing take a spray bottle and warm the bike up and spray each pipe as it comes out the head that will tell you which is not firing for sure..

[Ricky-D]

Along the lines of checking to see if the cylinder is firing take a spray bottle and warm the bike up and spray each pipe as it comes out the head that will tell you which is not firing for sure..

You're correct in all regards!

But I was thinking doing a little more sensitive reading.

When first starting the motor, all the pipes are cold and you can touch (grab) any one of them.

If you are checking the right side of the motor it's really easy because the bike is already leaning over and it is very easy to feel those exhaust pipes right off the start.

Now you should feel them get warm, each one. They should all become warm in an equal time and equally warm.

So, if you can feel this warmth come to the pipes you will be able to note which one gets to the HOT (touch no more) stage.  Hopefully it would be all three but I think this will not be the case with Roger's bike.

Doing it this way can tell you a little about the three cylinders on the same side and the condition to some degree and additionally a comparison of the three.

Remember, he was saying all three on the right side were troubling him.

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