Valkyrie Riders Cruiser Club
July 21, 2025, 08:44:19 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Ultimate Seats Link VRCC Store
Homepage : Photostash : JustPics : Shoptalk : Old Tech Archive : Classifieds : Contact Staff
News: If you're new to this message board, read THIS!
 
Inzane 17
Pages: [1]   Go Down
Send this topic Print
Author Topic: Carb removal  (Read 4823 times)
SANDMAN5
Member
*****
Posts: 2176


Mileage 65875

East TN


« on: November 18, 2010, 10:00:19 AM »

Gonna take the carbs off and clean 'em out and switch to 38 slows.
The book says to drain the cooling system. Why?
Also says to remove the airbox. Is this a necessity or does it just make it
easier? (I hate reinstalling the airbox!!)
Anything else I need to do while I'm in there? Already de-smogged.
Logged

"Evolution" is a dying religion being kept alive with tax dollars.


shortleg
Member
*****
Posts: 1816


maryland


« Reply #1 on: November 18, 2010, 10:24:18 AM »


   There is no need to drain the coolent.
 When I helped remove carb bank we didnot
drain coolent, we did remove air box and coil
on right side. Carb came out on the right side.
   After removeing intake tubes and cabel from
handle bars.  Move bars to the left for slack in cables
   Remove tank and air box,cables.intakes.
 Now is a good time to replace intake O rings.
           Shortleg[Dave]
Logged
stude31
Member
*****
Posts: 1100


Topeka,ks


« Reply #2 on: November 18, 2010, 12:43:17 PM »

Shortleg, you might want to clarify your statement.

I can tell yo if your sitting on the bike the right side is the throttle side and the left is the clutch side (if your reference point is the handlebars). 

I haven't removed the radiator hose...  Although I can see how this can be beneficial.  I remove the tank, airbox, and intake runners from the carbs.  I dropped the coil off and rotate it to the rear of the bike.  (two 8mm screws, I believe).  Then remove the push and pull throttle cable off the right side of the carb bank.  Then the choke cable on the left.  Once the carbs are "floating around in the bike.  I take off the black shroud by sliding the carb bank to the rear as far as you can and then working the shroud out.  Keep in mind their are steel friction washers or clips that you will need to unhook from the shroud prior to removing.  Once you have the shroud out I have found that sliding the carb bank out of the bike going to the right, (side of the throttle).  Once you have the carbs out do what you need to and then reverse the order.  FYI.... when you put the shroud back in make sure that the rubber piece isn't hitting the fan.  If it is it will blow a fuse and you will be trying to figure out what caused the fan to not come on.   Don't ask me how I know about this.

Anyhow...  have fun with it...   cooldude
Logged

SANDMAN5
Member
*****
Posts: 2176


Mileage 65875

East TN


« Reply #3 on: November 18, 2010, 02:56:22 PM »

Thanks for the info. Reckon I'll go ahead and remove the airbox.
I sure was hoping to get out of that!! Just ordered my 38's
today. Might be early Dec before I get my hands dirty! Smiley
Logged

"Evolution" is a dying religion being kept alive with tax dollars.


Pete
Member
*****
Posts: 2673


Frasier in Southeast Tennessee


« Reply #4 on: November 18, 2010, 03:10:16 PM »

I do not drain the coolant, but I do remove the two rear top motor mounts. The one with the switch I just unbolt and work to the rear, out of the way.

I also remove the carbs from the clutch lever side.  Easy to do with plenty of room on a Standard or an IS.
Logged
Blackduck
Member
*****
Posts: 642


West Australia


« Reply #5 on: November 18, 2010, 04:14:08 PM »

# 2 on taking the engine mounts/hangers off, do not need to mess with the plastic heat shield at the front and very easy to remove the carb bank. I take it out the throttle side. Have left the 3 intake manifolds on the engine on the clutch side. Less to hang up while removing the bank.
Never had problems with the airbox staying in place on refitting "IF" the runners are on the carbs properly.
Cheers Steve
Logged

2001 Standard, 78 Goldwing, VRCC 21411
shortleg
Member
*****
Posts: 1816


maryland


« Reply #6 on: November 18, 2010, 05:28:28 PM »

   You are correct, I ment the left side of bike.
 I am sorry if I caused any confusion.
     Don,t know why you would drain coolent.
  
       Shortleg[Dave]
  Yes also remove engine hangers
« Last Edit: November 18, 2010, 05:31:04 PM by shortleg » Logged
Tropic traveler
Member
*****
Posts: 3117


Livin' the Valk, er, F6B life in Central Florida.

Silver Springs, Florida


« Reply #7 on: November 20, 2010, 03:55:27 PM »

Sounds like we have 2 different approaches to carb bank removal.
If you remove the engine hanger{s} you do not have to drain the coolant or remove the upper hose.
If you remove the upper hose & drain the coolant you do not have to remove the engine hanger{s}.
HMMMM. Sounds like either will work!
I drained the coolant & removed the hose on the 3 bikes I have pulled the carb bank from. Wink
Logged

'13 F6B black-the real new Valkyrie Tourer
'13 F6B red for Kim
'97 Valkyrie Tourer r&w, OLDFRT's ride now!
'98 Valkyrie Tourer burgundy & cream traded for Kim's F6B
'05 SS 750 traded for Kim's F6B
'99 Valkyrie black & silver Tourer, traded in on my F6B
'05 Triumph R3 gone but not forgotten!
Pages: [1]   Go Up
Send this topic Print
Jump to: