Comment on the Best 5 mechanical "must-do's"

[valknomad]

Sept. 2010 bought a 98 Valk Tourer 18,000miles.  ( I also have a 2003 Vulcan Nomad V&H, EFI, Air Kit...), so where to start with the Valk.   I would like to keep "close to stock" exhaust, but get a good sound, (I kind like the 24" Ragnar stacks maybe 18"???)  then will I need to remove the emmision crap.  I pretty sure I'll be doing the "slow jet" soon (kinda disappointed haveing to do these already at 18,000.. a nod to fuel injection).    Just looking for plan of attack..... P.S. I've got pull-backs, Ultimate Seat, Trailer Hitch.       

[John U.]

The OEM petcock is a common source of trouble. After 12 years the diaphragm probably is about shot. Get the "cover set" to rebuild and a new screen, or consider replacing with a Pingle. The have a vacume model or a non-vacume, but be sure to remember to turn it off. Failure of the petcock or failure to turn it off if manual is one of the causes of hydrolock (big trouble and big $ to fix).
 
A fuel filter is another hydrolock avoidance measure. The petcock screen will allow small particles to pass which can cause a leak in the float valves, which along with a leaking petcock sets up the conditions for a hydrolock.

At your next tire change, replace the OEM valve stems. They are rubber mounted and can fail suddenly. Patchboy has a chrome 90 degree replacement cheap, though they get you for shipping.

Desmogging the engine will avoid problems with leaking vacume lines.

Consider replacing the slow jets with 38s. They clog up less often due to ethanol and can help eliminate a flat spot thst some valks are troubled by. The pilot screws need to be set to 1 3/4 out from lightly seated with the 38s.

You can do a search on each of these and see what others have had to say.
These are all low cost suggestions which will improve the reliability of an already very reliable machine.

One last suggestion, most flats occur on the rear tire, consider running Ride-On in the rear tire.

Sorry, I just thought of one more. Do the starter button maintenace and if you have a Standard or Tourer, install relays to power your high and low beam headlights. This will reduce the current passing through the switch and greatly reduce the chances of a starter button meltdown

[BF]

A bottle of Techron, or Gumout Fuel injection cleaner or a bottle of Sea Foam usally does wonders for clogged up slow jets.  Choose your poison......I'm partial to the Techron or Gumout.  Put in your favorite cleaner in a tank of gas and go for a ride.  You'll want to keep it under 3000 rpm for most, if not the entire tank.  You should notice an improvement.  If not, try one or two more bottles and tanks.  If that doesn't do it, you'll probably then need to clean and/or replace your slow jets.  

There's no such thing as Ragnar stacks.  Stacks are truck stacks installed over your stock exhaust.  You can get 'em here (as well as other places that deal with truck exhausts).....

http://www.airflo.com/valkyrie.html

This is how you put them on......

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/truckstackinstall.htm

Other options are simply replacing your current stock exhaust tips.  Simple to do.  You can also get tips of various lenghts at the link above.  You can get them bologna cut or straight cut.  There's also little goodies you can get to dress up the ends of straight cut tips/exhausts such as Grumpy's tips.....

http://www.grumpyscustomparts.com/apps/photos/

There's other exhaust tip options on ebay as well.  

None of that will change the sound/exhaust note.  If you want a more sound/deeper/throater exhaust note and still keep your current OEM exhaust, you can then start modifying it by making some mods to it.  

Ragnar is the name given to a certain mod (removing the rear baffles) made to your stock exhaust.  I have no idea how these mods were named Ragnar.....I presume after whoever it was that first did it to their Valk.  Basically the Ragnar cut is drilling out the rear set of baffles at the rear of your stock exhaust.  

This is the Ragnar cut.....

http://luiscajiga.com/Exhaustm.htm

and.....

http://luiscajiga.com/Exhaustm2.htm

I'd strongly suggest that before you go all the way with the ragnar cut, you first cut off the piggies (see link above) to start with and ride your Valk like that for awhile before you proceed to the next step.....which is drilling out the rear baffles.  Cutting off the piggies won't really make the exhaust note any louder, just a nice pleasant/deeper exhaust note.  Drilling out/punching out the rear baffles will make it louder....but not obnoxious loud.  It's a nice tone.  If after drilling out the rear baffles you still want more, more like a Harley hunting exhaust sound and much louder, you can perform the Ragnar cut by removing the rear baffles entirely.  It's still not an obnoxious loud when at idle or low rpm, but when get on the gas and run through the grears, you'll have a hard time wiping the smile off your face.  Folks WILL hear you.  

There is one final/last step you can do.....drilling the front set of baffles (there are three rear and three front baffles per side).  If you stop there and don't drill the front set, you won't need to do any carb work, however, it's my understanding that if you go all the way and drill out the front baffles too, you'll then need to do some carb mods (again, see the above links).  

This is my Valk with the piggies cut and the rear baffles drilled......  

Honda Valkyrie - LED turn and tag light modifications	powered by Aeva

This is it after the rear baffles have been removed (Ragnar Cut)......

Honda Valkyrie - after Ragnar Cut	powered by Aeva

Shop talk is your friend......

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/

btw......Welcome to the addiction.  

[Farther]

Nothing wrong with keeping it stock and just fixing what needs to be fixed.  The Valkyre is a very good product that seldom need more than scheduled maintenance.

[gordonv]

I think rather than fix things that don't need fixing, I feel you are better off know what potential problems the Valkyrie has. So DL and read the list of know issues.

If you know what is happening when your bike is giving you a problem, then you have a better chance of fixing it.

Like running out of fuel before reserve. Starter switch not working. 2 problems mentioned above. Reading this Tech forum over, so you have an idea what problems are happening more often than others, I still don't know what they are. But I do feel that I would be able to figure out what might be wrong with my bike if/when it gives me any trouble.

[9Ball]

the best bang for your buck is to do a full Progressive suspension, fork springs and 440s.

This made the most difference in handling, which to me equals performance.

[FryeVRCCDS0067]

the best bang for your buck is to do a full Progressive suspension, fork springs and 440s.

This made the most difference in handling, which to me equals performance.

I would agree but make sure those rear shocks are the HD440's.

In addition to the above. Starter button maintenance, starter relay maintenance, starter brushes by 70,000 miles. (starter brushes are a PIA!) Clean & lube the splines, replace the 3 "O" rings every 10,000 miles. Replace your brake and clutch fluid yearly.

[Valker]

the best bang for your buck is to do a full Progressive suspension, fork springs and 440s.

This made the most difference in handling, which to me equals performance.

I would agree but make sure those rear shocks are the HD440's.

In addition to the above. Starter button maintenance, starter relay maintenance, starter brushes by 70,000 miles. (starter brushes are a PIA!) Clean & lube the splines, replace the 3 "O" rings every 10,000 miles. Replace your brake and clutch fluid yearly.

Dang, this makes me feel bad. I have 125,000 on mine and I never have touched the starter relay or brushes, and I've never had to replace the 3 "O"rings. Rest of it I mostly do, except fluids every two years, and the starter button twice so far.

[X Ring]

At your next tire change, replace the OEM valve stems. They are rubber mounted and can fail suddenly. Patchboy has a chrome 90 degree replacement cheap, though they get you for shipping.

If you go on ebay, you will find Patchboy selling their valve stems with only a $5.00 shipping charge.  I ordered a pack of 10 valve stems.

Marty