BIG--T
Member
Posts: 3002
1998 Standard, 2000 Interstate
The Twilight Zone
|
 |
« on: January 23, 2011, 07:38:46 PM » |
|
Hi Ya'll, Well I finally got her and she is beautiful- in my eyes anyway! Lol Other than being super cold natured she runs pretty good when warm. She's got 8k miles on her and was wondering, other than changing the oil, what can I check for. I read a post earlier saying the petcocks will go bad and cause hydrolock....whatever that is. I've got to find a service manual. How often does the valves need adjusting? I think the newer GW are around 32k-36k. The first thing I will do is change the oil and air filter. Any advice will be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance.  |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
bigvalkriefan
Member
Posts: 407
On the green monster
South Florida
|
|
« Reply #1 on: January 23, 2011, 08:00:03 PM » |
|
Don't worry about the valves,they rarely need any adjusting done. Make sure the starter switch is clean of any corrosion. There is a starter relay behind the right side cover that needs some preventative maintenance done to prevent starting failures. You might want to consider doing a desmog. As for oil I use Rotella 15w- 40w synthetic and I use supertech oil filters from wally world. They are very good filters and resonably cheap. These are just a few things that can save you some headaches.
|
|
|
|
« Last Edit: January 23, 2011, 08:04:48 PM by bigvalkriefan »
|
Logged
|
.....say to those with fearful hearts, "Be strong, do not fear; your God will come, he will come with vengeance; with divine retribution he will come to save you."
Isaiah 35:4
I know who wins in the end.
|
|
|
|
Bobbo
|
|
« Reply #2 on: January 23, 2011, 08:13:02 PM » |
|
As far as cold natured, make sure you fully apply the choke. The lever will move about another half inch after you feel resistance. It might be a good idea to pull the rear wheel and check the splines. They may be dry, and need plenty of moly paste. When changing the air filter, make sure the vent tubes don’t get pinched between the tank and frame when reinstalling the tank. There are other details you can see by visiting the shoptalk section here.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
PAVALKER
Member
Posts: 4435
Retired Navy 22YOS, 2014 Valkyrie , VRCC# 27213
Pittsburgh, Pa
|
|
« Reply #3 on: January 23, 2011, 08:41:58 PM » |
|
Do all fluids, and filters (oil/air) start fresh.... oil, final drive gear oil, hydraulic clutch and brake fluids ... even coolant. Depending on the condition of your Valk, check wheel bearings, spline lube. brakes and tires (not only for wear - but for dry rot cracks and age of tires). Once you go over it all with the fluids and such... I'm sure you might find some other things that need attention in some manner. Keep in mind it's a labor of love ......
As Bobbo said the choke lever has some additional movement when you think it is on... and you might want to lube the cables depending on how yours was kept/stored.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
John  |
|
|
BIG--T
Member
Posts: 3002
1998 Standard, 2000 Interstate
The Twilight Zone
|
|
« Reply #4 on: January 24, 2011, 07:33:01 AM » |
|
Thanks for all your help! If there's anything else that comes to mind, please let me know. Pax, I mean Pav   The bike is in SHOWROOM condition!! I don't see how he keep it so nice being a 98. He put new Elite3s on her so no dry rotting. I hate taking a brand new tire off to check the spine/bearings. Is there any way I can check- sound feel, etc? That's great to know about the valves and the choke. When I went to buy it, it like to have never started. He kept it on a battery tender and come to find out he hadn't ridden it since November and it was in the 30s that day. Thanks again!  |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
hubcapsc
Member
Posts: 16788
upstate
South Carolina
|
|
« Reply #5 on: January 24, 2011, 07:45:08 AM » |
|
I hate taking a brand new tire off to check the spine/bearings. Is there any way I can check- sound feel, etc? That's great to know about the valves and the choke.
Don't have to take off the tire, just the wheel... the seal popped out of my pinion cup (cause I did something wrong? because of the phase of the moon?) and I ruined the pinion cup in 4000 miles. Both ends of the drive shaft (the drive shaft goes from the engine output to the pinion cup) and the place where the wheel couples to the final drive need to be kept looked at. There's tons of pictures and discussion you can search out about it on this great site.  You can look down at the carb tops near where the choke cable leads and see stuff move if you're mashing on the choke lever hard enough... -Mike |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Kaiser
|
|
« Reply #6 on: January 24, 2011, 07:46:21 AM » |
|
The only way you can really know the condition of the splines is to visually inspect them.
My .02 - do not go overboard too soon. Just enjoy the bike. I did some "preventative maintenance" (read: I was bored and started tinkering) on mine that was not needed and introduced problems with a previously perfectly running bike.
The good news is that if you jack something up, there is somebody (or 100 somebodies) on this forum that can get you back up and running in no time.
Welcome to the madness. Enjoy the ride!
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Hoser
Member
Posts: 5844
child of the sixties VRCC 17899
Auburn, Kansas
|
|
« Reply #7 on: January 24, 2011, 07:56:36 AM » |
|
As far as cold natured, make sure you fully apply the choke. The lever will move about another half inch after you feel resistance. It might be a good idea to pull the rear wheel and check the splines. They may be dry, and need plenty of moly paste. When changing the air filter, make sure the vent tubes don’t get pinched between the tank and frame when reinstalling the tank. There are other details you can see by visiting the shoptalk section here.
+1 on the choke operation. hoser |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
I don't want a pickle, just wanna ride my motor sickle  [img width=300 height=233]http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/ |
|
|
|
9Ball
|
|
« Reply #8 on: January 24, 2011, 08:29:41 AM » |
|
The only way you can really know the condition of the splines is to visually inspect them.
My .02 - do not go overboard too soon. Just enjoy the bike. I did some "preventative maintenance" (read: I was bored and started tinkering) on mine that was not needed and introduced problems with a previously perfectly running bike.
The good news is that if you jack something up, there is somebody (or 100 somebodies) on this forum that can get you back up and running in no time.
Welcome to the madness. Enjoy the ride!
good advice. No need to tear things apart unless there is a problem or poor or missing maintenance history for this bike. the previous owner should have given you some info on what maintenance he has performed so you can then decide what needs to be done for peace of mind. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
VRCC #6897, Joined May, 2000
1999 Standard
2007 Rocket 3
2005 VTX 1300S
|
|
|
|
Baloo
|
|
« Reply #9 on: January 24, 2011, 09:39:55 AM » |
|
I've got to find a service manual Follow this link: http://www.valkyrienorway.com/download.htmlWelcome aboard! Have fun with your fat lady |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Never ride any faster than your guardian angel can fly...
|
|
|
|
Quicksilver
|
|
« Reply #10 on: January 24, 2011, 01:34:15 PM » |
|
Remove your rear wheel and check the condition of your final drive splines as well as rear wheel bearings. You can't tell the condition of the lubrication there or wear unless you do. The maintenance is cheap compared to changing your final drive. New tires are not an indication that this has been done. In my experience.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
1997 Standard   |
|
|
|
Bobbo
|
|
« Reply #11 on: January 24, 2011, 01:44:22 PM » |
|
Remove your rear wheel and check the condition of your final drive splines as well as rear wheel bearings. You can't tell the condition of the lubrication there or wear unless you do. The maintenance is cheap compared to changing your final drive. New tires are not an indication that this has been done. In my experience.
Exactly why I suggested a spline exam! I unfortunately let the local Honda dealer replace the first two sets of tires on my Valk. When I pulled the rear wheel to replace the third tire, about a quarter cup of rust came out of the splines! Even though I thoroughly cleaned and lubed the splines afterward, they only lasted about 80,000 miles. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
gordonv
Member
Posts: 5763
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
|
|
« Reply #12 on: January 24, 2011, 02:07:46 PM » |
|
One thing you hadn't mentioned yet is how many miles your bike has.
Your spline needs lubing ever 10K miles, should be done when you change your tire about every 10K (for an E3), but like said, unless the owner has done this, don't trust the repair shop to have done it, even if they say they have. The cost is too high ($) if it has not been done.
I just removed my rear rim at 50K miles, splines are great, but my dampners and the top shock mounts are shot. After riding the bike for 6K since I bought it, I had no signs of rear end problems. But I did buy a replacement set of neopren dampners while they where still available for just such an issue.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
1999 Black with custom paint IS   |
|
|
us385south
Member
Posts: 413
"Geeky White Caucasion"
San Marcos, Texas
|
|
« Reply #13 on: January 24, 2011, 02:57:53 PM » |
|
8k on a bike that old is low,low mileage... I do twice that in a year. That tends to suggest to me that the bike sat a lot... which in my opinion is risky to certain rubber and carburetor components. Check the dates your tires were made... too old is NOT good....
It could be that I am just gun shy... but I'd replace the timing belts. My rule of thumb is every 80K OR every eight years. If you don't know when it was done last... DO IT!
I got my belts at NAPA and they cost about $24.00 for both. It took me a couple hours on a Saturday afternoon to install them. The GL1500 is a valve invasion engine so if the timing belts fail, you are into some serious repairs. In my mind, I cannot afford to not know what condition they're in.
Just changed mine on the 98 Standard I bought in October and I am SOOOOOOO glad I did... the left one was frayed on the outside... and the cogs on the crank had condesed and rusted themselves to the belts... when I started the bike after two years... it tore a layer of rubber off the inside of each belt where they had been in contact with the drive cogs... yikes!
I am thanking my lucky stars I checked... we are talking "nick-o-time" here...
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
"I can't explain a blessed thing,
not a falling star or a feathered wing,
but when the light's just right I swear I see...
poetry!" |
|
|
|
sandy
|
|
« Reply #14 on: January 24, 2011, 04:39:25 PM » |
|
Instead of pulling the rear wheel, call the previous owner and ask him who did the tire change. Then call that guy and ask him how the splines were and what he used for grease.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Pete
|
|
« Reply #15 on: January 24, 2011, 06:17:09 PM » |
|
If you are correctly using the choke and it is still cold natured, then run several tanks of gas with cleaner thru it. If it is still cold natured then you may need to clean the low speed jets, emulsion tubes and pilot needles and passages.
Every low mileage (1500 to 19,000 miles) Valkyrie I have worked on the the last 18 months needed the carbs cleaned, before it ran right.
Good luck, have fun and enjoy the bike. Welcome.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
PAVALKER
Member
Posts: 4435
Retired Navy 22YOS, 2014 Valkyrie , VRCC# 27213
Pittsburgh, Pa
|
|
« Reply #16 on: January 24, 2011, 06:17:32 PM » |
|
Instead of pulling the rear wheel, call the previous owner and ask him who did the tire change. Then call that guy and ask him how the splines were and what he used for grease.
I'd rather pull the rear wheel myself and get familiar with the process, and make sure it was done right. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
John |
|
|
BIG--T
Member
Posts: 3002
1998 Standard, 2000 Interstate
The Twilight Zone
|
|
« Reply #17 on: January 24, 2011, 08:05:01 PM » |
|
I hate taking a brand new tire off to check the spine/bearings. Is there any way I can check- sound feel, etc? That's great to know about the valves and the choke.
Don't have to take off the tire, just the wheel... the seal popped out of my pinion cup (cause I did something wrong? because of the phase of the moon?) and I ruined the pinion cup in 4000 miles. Both ends of the drive shaft (the drive shaft goes from the engine output to the pinion cup) and the place where the wheel couples to the final drive need to be kept looked at. There's tons of pictures and discussion you can search out about it on this great site. You can look down at the carb tops near where the choke cable leads and see stuff move if you're mashing on the choke lever hard enough... -Mike Hi Mike, No I meant the wheel. I guess I'll go ahead and do it to have peace of mind. Think I'll put synthetic in the final too. Sharp bike you got there! I like the red/white. I see you live in the upstate too and I'm already tired of winter. Just brought her home today which was a lot better than saturday and gonna rain/snow tomorrow and wednesday. I'm like a kid at Christmas! Lol Least saturday looks good so far. BTW, are there many Valk riders around? I very seldom even see one and that's one reason I bought mine- I love to be different Thanks  |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
John U.
|
|
« Reply #18 on: January 24, 2011, 08:08:40 PM » |
|
+1 on checking the splines.
Read about the starter switch maintenance in Shoptalk. The headlight circuit runs through the switch; as you press the switch the headlights are disconnected as the starter is connected. This puts a lot of juice through the switch continously and will caouse the sitch to run hot if good contact is not maintained. Consider installing
relays to carry the headlight voltage. The switch will last longer and your chances of being stranded are reduced.
Get some Marine Stabil and use it in every tank of gas. Ethanol will clog up the slow jets very quickly. Gummed up carbs is probably the number one problem with Valks since our elected officials decided that ethanol "enrichment" is a good idea.
+1 on tending to the fluids. Brake and clutch fluid should be changed at least every two years, some do it every year.
Welcome and don't hesitate to ask if you have a problem or just want to know about something.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
BIG--T
Member
Posts: 3002
1998 Standard, 2000 Interstate
The Twilight Zone
|
|
« Reply #19 on: January 24, 2011, 08:15:17 PM » |
|
And she sure is fat! Fatter than my VTX 1800! Thanks for the link |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
BIG--T
Member
Posts: 3002
1998 Standard, 2000 Interstate
The Twilight Zone
|
|
« Reply #20 on: January 24, 2011, 08:25:41 PM » |
|
One thing you hadn't mentioned yet is how many miles your bike has. Your spline needs lubing ever 10K miles, should be done when you change your tire about every 10K (for an E3), but like said, unless the owner has done this, don't trust the repair shop to have done it, even if they say they have. The cost is too high ($) if it has not been done. I just removed my rear rim at 50K miles, splines are great, but my dampners and the top shock mounts are shot. After riding the bike for 6K since I bought it, I had no signs of rear end problems. But I did buy a replacement set of neopren dampners while they where still available for just such an issue. [/quote She's got 8k miles and thanks for the heads up on the every 10K. Yeah the previous owner always brought it to the Honda shop, so I;m sure he doesn't know. Thanks |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
BIG--T
Member
Posts: 3002
1998 Standard, 2000 Interstate
The Twilight Zone
|
|
« Reply #21 on: January 24, 2011, 08:38:08 PM » |
|
8k on a bike that old is low,low mileage... I do twice that in a year. That tends to suggest to me that the bike sat a lot... which in my opinion is risky to certain rubber and carburetor components. Check the dates your tires were made... too old is NOT good....
It could be that I am just gun shy... but I'd replace the timing belts. My rule of thumb is every 80K OR every eight years. If you don't know when it was done last... DO IT!
I got my belts at NAPA and they cost about $24.00 for both. It took me a couple hours on a Saturday afternoon to install them. The GL1500 is a valve invasion engine so if the timing belts fail, you are into some serious repairs. In my mind, I cannot afford to not know what condition they're in.
Just changed mine on the 98 Standard I bought in October and I am SOOOOOOO glad I did... the left one was frayed on the outside... and the cogs on the crank had condesed and rusted themselves to the belts... when I started the bike after two years... it tore a layer of rubber off the inside of each belt where they had been in contact with the drive cogs... yikes!
I am thanking my lucky stars I checked... we are talking "nick-o-time" here...
WOW! A timing belt at 8k? He went a few hundred miles this past november and a few hundred a last summer. Talking about sparatic! Like you I put 6-10k a year on mine. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
|
Airetime
Member
Posts: 156
U Never See a Valk Parked @ a Psychiatrist Office
Anacortes, WA
|
|
« Reply #23 on: January 24, 2011, 09:06:18 PM » |
|
Hi Ya'll, Well I finally got her and she is beautiful- in my eyes anyway! Lol Other than being super cold natured she runs pretty good when warm. She's got 8k miles on her and was wondering, other than changing the oil, what can I check for. I read a post earlier saying the petcocks will go bad and cause hydrolock....whatever that is. I've got to find a service manual. How often does the valves need adjusting? I think the newer GW are around 32k-36k. The first thing I will do is change the oil and air filter. Any advice will be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance.
Also wander over to our Shop Talk for some more reading, congrats on owning one of the best, low maintenance bikes out there. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
hubcapsc
Member
Posts: 16788
upstate
South Carolina
|
|
« Reply #24 on: January 25, 2011, 04:38:52 AM » |
|
[ Sharp bike you got there! I like the red/white. I see you live in the upstate too... BTW, are there many Valk riders around? I very seldom even see one and that's one reason I bought mine- I love to be different
I live near Seneca, where do you live? I've always been able to get up a group of Valkyrie riders, but the group keeps changing, glad to have you on board! These are all upstate bikes...   -Mike |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
