|
Hotrodwing
|
 |
« on: February 03, 2011, 10:52:05 AM » |
|
I had my forks rebuilt and want to put her back together and was wondering if I should put anti-sieze or locktite or nothing on the triple tree pinch bolts? The reason I ask is the bolts were very tight when I went to removed them.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Kaiser
|
|
« Reply #1 on: February 03, 2011, 11:02:06 AM » |
|
A guy on here with the handle of "fordmano" just re-installed his front forks. While his thread does not mention using one of those products, you may want to shoot him a PM and see if he used anything on the bolts.
His thread is called "Multipoint Upgrade projects".
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Pete
|
|
« Reply #2 on: February 03, 2011, 12:07:33 PM » |
|
Anytime you are joining steel threads and aluminum threads, you should use a small amount of anti-seize. It prevents galling and dis-similar metal reactions.
It is somewhat less important when joining chrome plated steel with aluminum, but is still a good idea.
|
|
|
|
« Last Edit: February 03, 2011, 12:09:21 PM by Pete »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Hotrodwing
|
|
« Reply #3 on: February 03, 2011, 03:20:26 PM » |
|
Thanks will try the anti -seize.  |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Big Mike
Member
Posts: 353
I can not remember my last bad day
Taylor MI
|
|
« Reply #4 on: February 03, 2011, 06:05:28 PM » |
|
You do not want to use any locktite or similar product on a steel bolt going into aluminum threads. You want to put just a dab of anti-seize to keep the aluminum from oxidizing. If gone untreated the bolt will sieze itself to the aluminum threads. Just ask any Ford owner of the mid 80s when Ford went to aluminum heads and steel bolts. I am sure there is a torque spec for those in the manual, USE IT.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Big Mike
VRCC 23871
VRCCDS 0200
With GOD and a good attitude, there is no circumstance that I can not overcome.
|
|
|
|
Ken Tarver
|
|
« Reply #5 on: February 03, 2011, 06:31:09 PM » |
|
according to manual:
bottom bridge pinch bolts 18 foot pounds
top bridge pinch bolts 41 foot pounds
i didn't see any mention of using lok-tite or anti sieze, i believe this to be aluminum to aluminum mating.
Ken
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
fordmano
Member
Posts: 1457
San Jose, CA. 1999 I/S 232 miles when bought 11/05
San Jose, CA.
|
|
« Reply #6 on: February 03, 2011, 08:32:58 PM » |
|
As others have noted the Manual "DOES NOT" mention any anti-seize or thread lock, however I would normally use a little Anti-Seize in most cases I did NOT use any on the pich bolts on my Triple-Tree. In this case my thought was there was none one there from the factory (not like the factory is always 100% correct on thier practices) and they definetly were NOT seized at all and I was the first to ever remove them I felt it was safe in this instance to NOT use any anti-seize compound.
The other thought I had was the Torque specs were somewhat low in my mind and I did not want any chance of movement or loosening by lubricating the threads.
Thread-Locker,,,, well I dont think there are many instances they I would ever use thread locker when going into aluminum.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
  83GS550 93XR650L TARD! 97WR250 99ValkyrieI/S Tri-tone 01YZ125(x2) 05DRZ-125 |
|
|
|
Pete
|
|
« Reply #7 on: February 04, 2011, 06:53:27 AM » |
|
I agree with those above "thread locker on aluminum a bad idea".
Bare steel and bare aluminum will manufacture its own thread locker, add a little moisture and exposure and sometimes removing means destroying a screw or bolt.
Anti-seize on the thread will result in a more accurate torque loading as it eliminates thread friction contributing to the actual torque required.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Hotrodwing
|
|
« Reply #8 on: February 04, 2011, 08:11:12 AM » |
|
:)Thanks for the info guys. The reason I asked about locktite is because in my service manual (not a Honda Manual) at the bottom of the torque spec's there is an astrik that mentions Blue Locktite. I did not think this was a good idea especially since I snaped one of the axel pinch bolts.  |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
