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Author Topic: Locks removal  (Read 1455 times)
gordonv
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Posts: 5763


VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« on: February 03, 2011, 05:23:48 PM »

I'm thinking of pulling all the keyed locks from the Interstate bike I'm parting out, and sell as a complete set. Just checked over the service manual and there is no mention (other than the trunk, which I'm keeping) of how to remove the locks or even ignition switch.

Do I need a manual, or is everything fairly simple upon inspections? steering, ignition, and bags, seat release lock already removed.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS

Disco
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Posts: 4899


Armed Man=Citizen; Unarmed Man=Subject

Republic of Texas


« Reply #1 on: February 03, 2011, 07:13:39 PM »

If you have about 150MB of room on your hard drive, I recommend you click the link and download the service manual from Dag's site.   Wink

http://www.valkyrienorway.com/download.html
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2000 Bumblebee "Tourer", 98 Yellow & Cream Tourer, 97 Rescue blower bike
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gordonv
Member
*****
Posts: 5763


VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #2 on: February 03, 2011, 07:52:58 PM »

I'm thinking of pulling all the keyed locks from the Interstate bike I'm parting out, and sell as a complete set. Just checked over the service manual and there is no mention (other than the trunk, which I'm keeping) of how to remove the locks or even ignition switch.

Do I need a manual, or is everything fairly simple upon inspections? steering, ignition, and bags, seat release lock already removed.

I have both a hard copy and the pdf. Neither shows anything with the locks other than the trunk and seat release.

Of cource I have the keys, so don't know if I need to install them in the lock and then push a pin or something to remove them, like from the bags or stearing lock.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS

fordmano
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Posts: 1457


San Jose, CA. 1999 I/S 232 miles when bought 11/05

San Jose, CA.


« Reply #3 on: February 03, 2011, 09:12:05 PM »

You can always check out the parts fische exploded views to help show what is behind that part and unseen items, This has helped me out a few times. cooldude

Side note: I downloaded that PDF. from DAGs site and printed it out here at work all 452+ pages then found a large binder again from work and used their big 3 hole punch while I was working (yeah right) and even made chapter/section seperators with labels on them. It is much easier for my little brain to understand when I can set the picture next to the actual item I am working on or with and compare them side by side.
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What Exactly is Normal? crazy2 crazy2

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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16788


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #4 on: February 04, 2011, 08:19:06 AM »

I changed out all my locks.

Most are pretty easy.

The center-cover/seat lock is really hard, but only as hard as removing and installing the center
cover (twice if you put the lean sensor back on upside down) without breaking or scratching it.

The saddlebag locks are the real killer. After studying them for a while, I just left them and changed
out the old lock guts with the new lock guts. The guts come-out/go-back-in really easy.

I didn't change the fork lock until later when I had a bunch of the front end apart anyhow... it was easy
then, must have seemed hard with the bike all together...

Oh yeah... when you get to the last step of removing the ignition lock, you'll find that you need a
giant torkx (whatever) driver... I had some never-used ones, and one of them fit YAHOO...

-Mike
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gordonv
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Posts: 5763


VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #5 on: February 04, 2011, 01:02:52 PM »

The fisch, that is what I needed. Seems the stearing column and ignition is easy. Already have the seat release lock off, since I sold the cover already. Forgot about the helmet locks on the trunk.
« Last Edit: February 04, 2011, 01:20:08 PM by gordonv » Logged

1999 Black with custom paint IS

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