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mike in miami
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« on: February 07, 2011, 04:46:46 PM » |
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Thank you for all the suggestions, luckily for me I replaced the fuse even though visually it looked fine. Now it all works, if it happens again I'll test for a short. Thanks again.
1998 1500C. I noticed the tachometer wasnt working while I was riding home yesterday. Then I noticed the neutral light and (behind the) gauge lights also didn't work, and the others listed in the subject line. The previous owner installed after market lights installed into the sides and back of the side bags...also not working. Tach needle not moving from 0. I checked the fuses and removed the headlight and inspected the connections.... still nothing. Everything else works and other than the lights, it ran fine. Any suggestions?
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« Last Edit: February 13, 2011, 11:43:29 AM by mike in miami »
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CajunRider
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« Reply #1 on: February 07, 2011, 05:40:54 PM » |
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If the fuse is good, I'd think the ground is bad. Do you have a volt meter? You can get a cheap digital from WalMart of Lowes if not. That'll work good enough for this.
- Check that you have 12 volts going to your lights/tac, red probe on power, black probe to the bike's frame (somewhere near the engine). Use the Volts DC setting.
- Check that you have continuity from the ground wire at the lights/tac to the frame (somewhere near the engine). Use the Ohm setting. You should read less than 4 or 5 ohms.
- If either of those aren't correct, trace the wire back checking at each connection (plug/recepticle) all the way to the fuse box.
I hope that makes sense!! 9 tome out of 10, the ground is bad. I'd pay close attention to that.
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Sent from my Apple IIe
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Challenger
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« Reply #2 on: February 07, 2011, 06:05:38 PM » |
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If memory serves me correctly, power comes from the key switch to the 10 amp tail light fuse to feed the things you mentioned were not working, including the tach. There are three different power paths from from the key switch to the fuses, (ign, fan & lights) If the head light is on, the lighting power circuit is good from the key switch to the fuse buss bar. and if the fuse has power on both sides, it would most likely be a corrosion in the the harness connector. check the wire coming out of the fuse block for corrosion on the back side. Just fallow the power until you loose it, Good luck
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Blackduck
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« Reply #3 on: February 07, 2011, 06:57:22 PM » |
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How did you check the fuses?
Had a mates 78 Goldwing lose instruments and lights, he pulled the fuses and inspected them and could not see any problem. I checked with a multi meter and found the fuse was broken. Had broken right at the connector and could not be seen by the naked eye.
Cheers Steve
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2001 Standard, 78 Goldwing, VRCC 21411
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Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
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« Reply #4 on: February 07, 2011, 11:45:24 PM » |
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My bet is it a fuse had the same thing happen on my tourer once.  |
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PhredValk
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« Reply #5 on: February 08, 2011, 11:10:40 AM » |
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If the PO added lighting, he may have run it from a second, self installed fuse box. I have one on my I/S to run an iPod and GPS and had the same on my old GL1100. If you can, call him and ask if this could be the case and it's location.
Fred.
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Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
VRCCDS0237
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X Ring
Member
Posts: 3626
VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204
The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans
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« Reply #6 on: February 08, 2011, 05:31:04 PM » |
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My bet is it a fuse had the same thing happen on my tourer once. Me too! Marty |
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People are more passionately opposed to wearing fur than leather because it's safer to harass rich women than bikers.  |
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Gryphon Rider
Member
Posts: 5227
2000 Tourer
Calgary, Alberta
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« Reply #7 on: February 08, 2011, 10:33:46 PM » |
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Could be fuses. If you blow replacement fuses, you have a short that needs fixing.
Could be the alternator. If the bike starts and runs fine without an external boost, the alternator is not the culprit.
Could be the ignition switch. If the bike starts and runs fine and the brake light works, and if all your fuses are good, but the meters, headlight, tail light, and accessory terminals are dead, then its either the ignition switch or a bad connection between it and the fuse block (IG2 circuit).
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