Improving fuel mileage

[PhredValk]

OK, after discussing the many ideas on these boards for improving fuel mileage, I've decided to open this thread to gather the combined wisdom and experience of the members in one place.
Two things can happen here:
1: This gets ignored and folks suggest a search of the topics. That's OK with me, I can let it die.
2: We get all the info in one place, pro and con, what works and what doesn't, and why. Whether it's riding style, easy mods, upgrades, right up to major engine work. Blowers, tires, trigger wheels, ICM, ECT, plugs, air wings, heck even oil.
I would not be averse of putting everything discussed into a compiled article for Shoptalk. I'm not talking miracles here, just a few more MPG. I read where I/S's get 40 MPG, hi-way, two up with trailers. How? I would like to compile the definitive list of possibles.
Thanks, Fred.

[Momz]

I consistantly get 200+ miles per tank before hitting reserve.
98 standard with simple ECT mod, I/S springs and I/S ECM, desmogged, polished intakes, raised tank for better air flow to the air box. And stripped down to save weight.

[Heinno]

I consistantly get 200+ miles per tank before hitting reserve.
98 standard with simple ECT mod, I/S springs and I/S ECM, desmogged, raised tank for better air flow to the air box. And stripped down to save weight.

Now that is a beautiful bike!! - and it still looks like a Valk!

I see you have cobras on - did you rejet? How did that effect the gas mileage?

[Momz]

Heinno,
Just has the Cobra jet needles.

[Ricky-D]

Miles per tank is very subjective and can be misleading!

Miles per gallon is a better yardstick but can still be misleading due to the variety of opinions of what is "filled to the top".  Using the point where you have to "go on reserve" is totally inaccurate and misleading!

Trying to ascertain a true MPG figure with a single tank fill up is not as accurate as keeping some records over a period of time and then calculating MPG. Not everyone knows how to do this!

I feel that a Valkyrie should be in the range of 37 to 41 miles per gallon under normal circumstances and normal riding habits.

***

[R J]

I get good gas mileage by keeping my big fat meat hook off of the throttle all the time.

You know, kind of ride it like a little old grandma drives to church every Sunday.

The above doesn't happen too much, I like to see MGM when he gets his tail twisted.

Now, a side note.    If I would have wanted gas mileage, I'd of bought a Helix or something in that cc area.  My old Helix gave me around 90 MPG on the highway.

I rode it to Reno shortly after I bought it for a Rally and averaged 87 MPG out and back.    Most of the time the throttle was rolled full on.    When in the mtns, I couldn't keep up with traffic too well so I had to either ride the 2 laners or the shoulder on the super slab.

PS:     This was a clique Gold Wingers Rally and no one would believe i rode the Helix out from Iowa.   I was called a liar to my face, behind my back and etc.   On the way home, I think it was in Cheyenne, I pulled in for gas and one of the Gold Wingers from the Rally was there filling up his truck.    Yup, his Gold Wing was in an enclosed trailer.    I heard his wife yelling at him to go apologize to that man for calling him a liar at the Rally.     I walked over and told her I had been called a liar by better men than he was so it wasn't necessary.    Still send the guy and his bride a Christmas card every year.    I've also stopped at their house on the way to Indiana a few times.      Hi Burt and Katie, wishing you well. Doubt if they read this, but if they do it is here.

[PhredValk]

Some good banter already, thanks guys.
Ricky; I agree, and would love to get up there. On the hi-way around 75 I 'm getting around 31MPG, and would like to get 37.
I'll be doing the ECT mod, raising the tank (front only?), and polishing the intakes this spring. Maybe the K&N filter as well. I have an I/S, so springs and ICM are there already. What else is there? Would a 4deg trigger wheel help? I know a 6deg is too much for the I/S.
I know that I would get great mileage on an ST1300, but I have a Valkyrie; I want to always have a Valkyrie, and I think we can all benefit from a discussion that helps fuel mileage, not just what someone gets, but more on what they have done to get there.
Keep it coming, Fred.

[Chrisj CMA]

I think the average Valkyrie should get around 40mpg as well, but that is on REAL gasoline (without the 10% alcohol).  That being said, and since we have had this discussion before......current reality is right around 35mpg for most people if you take an honest average over time.

It may be just as useful to not only discuss what improves mileage but maybe to list the things that can degrade your mileage.

Ill list in the order that I think had the most affect on my bike

1. Vacuum leaks.  Cracked lines and nipples and loose intake clamps.  By far the most difference made when these were fixed.

2. Wrong mixture set up......by that I mean with the Cobra pipes I found I needed the higher airflow of the K&N and that made a difference....SO screwing up the mixture formula can degrade mileage.

3.  Low tire pressure can reduce mileage

Thats about all I can think of that are physical changes......but by far the most change in mileage is riding style/habits/or......having too much fun, feel the power.....Yeah! fun, great.....BUT it will cost ya!

Oh, one more thing.......DIRT.  Myth busters have proven a dirty vehicle gets better fuel economy than a clean one.  So Im screwed there, my bike wont start if its dirty..........probably lose a mpg or two ever time......LOL

[flcjr]

i understand the need for miles per tank for touring but really just keep your bike in good repair ride it and enjoy the fat lady. If you want great mileage buy something else. they call this bike a power cruiser and it is the best one ever made it is not a scooter. honda makes some of those if you would like to get one i think they all get 50mpg or better.horse power is not free you always have to pay for it somewhere i think were all lucky that we didn't get ripped off buying these bikes,but you do pay a little at the pump for the enjoyment compared to other bikes.

[John U.]

Just to add to Chris' comment on vacume leaks, there are many places for vacume leaks to occur. The clamps that hold the rubber intake hoses to the carbs are near impossible to keep tight. I'm going to put a dab of locktight or nail polish on them to see if that helps.
Old spark plugs may work fine most of the time but can miss at high speed or high engine load.
Running a too heavy oil in the crankcase and the rear end can make a small difference.
A dirty air filter will hurt mileage.
So will an oversize windshield. I tilted mine back to reduce buffeting, makes the ride more pleasant and I also believe buffeting will hurt mileage.
Accesories that disturb the windstream will hurt as well.
Well snyced carbs will help. As will properly adjusted (for the slow jets you are running) pilot screws.

[Tropic traveler]

Been talked about before but my personal observations are '97s get less mpg while making more power. 29-41 mpg best/worst with 30-32 being the norm. 35-37 mpg on the exact same ride for Kim's '98 or the extra '99 Valk. On the other side of the coin, the '97 is faster than either of our other Valks. Undeniably, MPG is very dependent on my throttle hand! Cooler weather seems to help with the mpg as well.
Just my anecdotal observations but the MPG readings I made are real. 

[Scott in Ok]

[ Rant mode - On ]

Mileage claims, or statements are quite subjective and are not worth much in my opinion. There are just too many variations to account for.  There are a few things that highly affect fuel mileage on a Valkyrie.

1.  Speed/RPM is the largest.  If you ride hard and fast and your mileage is going down.
2.  Wind/turbulance.  Out in my part of the country, the wind will have a very large affect on mileage if you are riding down the interstate.
3. How much plastic out front? Windshields and fairings make a big difference. 
4. Pilot Jets/air fuel mixture(air filter). 

My point is there are plenty of folks who claim really high mileage.  Like over 40mpg consistantly.  I've had two Valkyries, both were well maintained and had all the tricks done to increase mileage.  Neither of them could average over 34mpg.  Sure, I've gotten over 40mpg on various tanks of fuel, but I was also cruising around the backroads doing under 50 mph for a whole tank.

If you have a Valkyrie that gets over 40mph on the interstate running an honest 75mph (roughly 78-80 indicated) for a whole tank of fuel I simply will have to see it before I believe it.  Not saying it can't happen, I just don't believe it yet. 

[ Rant Mode - Off ]

-Scott

[Chattanooga Mark]

I find that MPG or Miles Per Tank is dependant upon how tight I pull the happy cable, the weather, the bikes state of tune, the road eivironment and little else.

Mark
 

[bigdog99]

On local trips i usually keep the tire pressure around 35 in the front and 38 in the rear. when i put it on a long trip i will take it up to 38 on the front and 42 in the rear. (CT in the back)
as far as the de-smog, does this help remove the vacuum hoses that may lead to a leak? also, do you have to replace the petcock with a non vacuum one?
i am looking at a smaller windshield, the 2.5" lower one. i do like the fact that one does keep the rocks out of my face.
is there a better spark plug than the oem?

[Mildew]

Running 55 mph or less mine gets 38 and 33 running hard 80+ ...... pulling a trailer it gets 33 mpg on the back roads and 22 mpg on the highway with unjetted cobras. I just cleaned my air filter for the 1st time so it might do better if I ever get my petcock fixed.

[Colin]

What mpg is also seriously affected by your riding style, the speed you ride at and the roads that you ride. For me here in the mountains of Spain I spend most of my time between 2nd and 4th as a result I typically get 10km per litre of proper 95 octane petrol (which if my maths is correct is about 24mpg US gallons). Bike is properly set-up and sync'ed with no ETC mods etc. I would like more MPG but I also like my Valk and the two don't go together in my opinion.

As an aside don't forget that if comparing with anyone in the UK their gallons are bigger than US gallons.

[98valk]

the two weaknesses to address.

1) carb tunning for mpg not the factory tunning to meet EPA regs. CV carbs have 3 circuits all which can be tuned seperately. Pilot jet circuit is were mpg is won or lost. Hwy speeds only about 1/8 throttle is used and the engine is running on the PJ. Tunned wrong and u will be into the needle circuit which lowers mpg.

2) a cheap poor example of a factory ICM installed by Honda and other OEMs. There is no vacuum advance which is needed during hwy cruise. ""when throttle blades are nearly closed, the breathing ability of the engine is artifically inhibited. this creates high manifold vacuum and a low-density mixture volume in the combustion chambers. Because the charge density in the cylinder is less, the combustion rate is slower. As a result, more time is needed to burn the mixture and, therefore, more ignition advance is required. ""  Performace with economy, by David Vizard.

The Gold Wings ICM uses a vacuum advance feature with additional sensors, both can be easily added to a valkyrie. The full advance is 35 to over 40 degrees. Motor cycle consumer tesing 4/99,  '99 GW 32.2 mpg avg, wet weight 912 lbs, this included the barn door aerodynamics and valkyrie I/S 30.7 mpg avg, wet weight 833 lbs.

Valkyrie I/S has 21 degrees during Hwy rpm range of 3-4k rpms, std 17-20 degrees.
http://timskelton.com/valkyrie/tech/trigger_wheel_plus_dyna3000.htm

My mods have given me a best close to 50mpg straight hwy speeds, 70mph, real 87 octane,  PA turnpike, gas station to gas station on the way to inzane II. My everyday commute and around town 40-50 mph usally see 37-39 mpg avg. with 38 pilots and intake, exhaust, plugs and ignition mods. Right now I'm running 40 pilots in advance of installing my ceramic coated viking pipes and mpg has dropped to 35 mpg avg.

[thunderbass53]

I'm a bit of a newbe, so take this with a grain of salt...
My "new" '97 with 30K miles was getting pretty fair mileage...about 35-36 avg. while riding 2 up all the time. Just changed to Iridium tip plugs, and Amsoil 10-40, and she averaged 39 on our last 200 mile trip (some Interstate and some mountains). But I'm pretty gentle on the right wrist...

[PhredValk]

So not much can be done. A 4deg trigger wheel would bring the advance closer to the 26deg optimum hi-way setting, and the ECT mod helps with the low end/city driving. How far out should the pilot screws be set; I'm at 2200 feet.
Thanks, Fred.

[98valk]

So not much can be done. A 4deg trigger wheel would bring the advance closer to the 26deg optimum hi-way setting, and the ECT mod helps with the low end/city driving. How far out should the pilot screws be set; I'm at 2200 feet.
Thanks, Fred.

25-26 deg is the max power advance, not best hwy advance for mpg.

take the bike to an experience dyno tuner, best would be a factorypro dyno, and tell them u want it jetted and tuned for max mpg.

ECT mod IMO is too much advance for low speed riding and causes inaudible detonation that can be seen with an 5x magnified eye piece as black spots on the center porcelain.

I/S ICM with 4 degree TW or a dyna ICM w/ 6 degree TW using the 10 degree retard switch which I use below 2500 rpms same curve as I/S ICM +1 and gives me 32 degrees at 3k rpm with switch off.
stock GW GL1500 had hwy advance at 40 degrees, http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum1/63934.html
 GL1200 was even higher 42-45 but heads were different than GL1000, GL1100 and GL1500 heads.

If using OEM ICMs, a switch to hotter ignition coils from a honda blackbird cbr1100xx or the new minature dyna coils will give a noticable quicker acceleration and maybe 1-2 better mpg.

for spark plugs cut back side electrode so that the end is directly over the center electrode is good for about .5 mpg
I use autolite 4162 (forget if that is stock heat range, but there is a stock equivilent) which has a smaller center electrode and then I cut back the side for about 1 mpg increase. a lot cheaper than Iridiums

[gordonv]

I missed out doing any alterations to my bike to improve mpg and performance, it's gone now.

I was glad to hear 2 things I was going to try, both I have done on my ACE Tourer 1100, the iridium plugs and Amsoil synth oil.

On my ACE, I went from 175 KM to reserve, then synth Amsoil, and got another 10+ KM to reserve, and this was repeated over 2 seasons of driving. That was a 7% increase in MPG, and made it lower maintenance as a safe annual oil change.

I bought iridium plugs for both my ACE and Valk IS, but was going to install during the winter maintenance, but my Valk was gone. The ACE, I'm just starting to do the maintenance on now for the spring riding soon.

Most of the opinion is Valks don't run differently with new/expensive plugs. But the claim on the ACE, which is very cold blooded, will start faster, easier (no chock) and get a better fuel economy. Just the pain it is to change the plugs makes it a low maintenance alternative.

Lastly, how hard you use the throatle is the best saver of fuel. From a regular 195 mile to reserve, to a 145 miles, just from enjoying the ride a little, made me back off to a regular more sane driving style.

[John U.]

CA, I'd have to say that approaching 50mpg at 70mph is an impressive number. I'm always glad to have useful info. Can you tell me a bit more about the Blackbird coils? I see that they are paired like a Valk but we would need three. Does it matter to fitment which pairs, 1+4 or 2+3? Does the year of the donor bike matter?
I guess the resistance matches? Any other tips or cautions?
Did you widen the gap on the plugs with the hotter coils?
Thanks
John

[98valk]

Re: Ignition coils and wires

Posted By: 98valk <fitness7days@nospam.juno.com>
Date: 8/10/2008 at 05:38:48

In Response To: Ignition coils and wires  (Robert)
This is what I did.

Almost a direct replacement. They are the OEM coils from a CBR1100XX (blackbird), ST1300, 2000 sabre and all 2001 and newer 1100 shadows. The VTX uses this coil on the forward cylinder and uses the same numbered coil (MP10) for the rear coil but carries a different part number and is green in color. All others are black. They will be identified with MP10 on the coil, the Valkyrie's are MP8. I picked up these coils at a salvage yard. They should cost from $30-40 each. new they are $60-70.
This coil reads 2.4 ohms @ 60 degrees F whereas the stock Valkyrie coils read 2.9 ohms. This is a 0.5 ohm difference which will provide higher voltage to the plug. The stock Valkyrie coils are also used on the ST1100, CBR900RR, CB919, GW1500 and the older shadows.
Installaion of the side coil is a direct replacement. The two under the tank will require longer bolts and the forward coil's bolt holes must be moved 1/2 inch forward by making an adapter bracket.

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/forum/tech_archive.cgi?read=818109

I use moroso wires. U don't need the black cover, the wells have drain holes. IMO u don't need those race wires.
Don't use the CBR1100 coils if u are using a dyna, they will burn it up in two yrs even though dyna says the ohm rating is compatable .

JohnU
since we're not too far from each other, I have extra longer bolts, and u could see the bracket I made in person and take some measurements.  If I remember correctly, I bought some bracket from HD and modified it. I don't have the coils installed anymore since I use a dyna.
 

[John U.]

Thanks CA, private message on the way