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Author Topic: Anybody have a stripped wiring diagram?  (Read 1356 times)
Tigger #422
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Posts: 12


Ada, Ok


« on: February 22, 2011, 01:57:31 PM »

Does anyone have a stripped diagram with jumpers for the safeties or minimum wiring diagram?
When we built the firedragon we simply used the stock harness.  I'd like to clean things up now that she's "broken in".

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"if we chop it, they will come"
bassman
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Posts: 2159


« Reply #1 on: February 22, 2011, 02:11:57 PM »

Hey Tigger....dis help??

Compliments of RP and located on the Rattlebars site....


http://www.rattlebars.com/valkfaq/schematics/index.html
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Tigger #422
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Posts: 12


Ada, Ok


« Reply #2 on: February 23, 2011, 01:23:18 PM »

I need the computer pinout and starter circuit mods to attach a different solonoid and starter button,  I wanna get rid of the Honda handlebar control pods
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John Schmidt
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Posts: 15225


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #3 on: February 23, 2011, 01:38:51 PM »

Are you wanting to install HD controls like these? All new HD controls with the master cyl. for clutch and brake cost less than have the OEM setup chromed...and they look better too.  I did this maybe five years ago, along with 1.25" bars and ran the wiring inside the bars. Cost me just a few bucks to have Barnett change the upper ends of the throttle cables to the HD version. Rather easy to make the change on the switch boxes, just take one circuit at a time.

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Tigger #422
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Posts: 12


Ada, Ok


« Reply #4 on: February 24, 2011, 04:04:51 PM »

I WANNA GET RID OF THE HANDLEBAR PODS!!! Not replace em with HD or any other. 

Also need the safeties bypass notes and the computer pinout so I can clean up the wiring.
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RonW
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Posts: 1867

Newport Beach


« Reply #5 on: February 25, 2011, 04:11:56 AM »



Question(s)....are the directional buttons for your HD turn signals located on corresponding sides of the handlebar. For right-turn on the right handlebar. For left-turn on the left handlebar. The reason I ask is that I've often questioned flicking a right-turn button or lever that's on the right handlebar while operating the throttle being more accustomed to the conventional placement. Also, how did you select which particular HD handlebar was more plug-n-play for the Valk's cable/wire lengths. Lastly....if you're still here....how did you get around the stock Valk 1-inch risers with the HD 1¼-inch handlebar. An obvious, thanks in advance.
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2000 Valkyrie Tourer
John Schmidt
Member
*****
Posts: 15225


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #6 on: February 26, 2011, 07:56:30 AM »



Question(s)....are the directional buttons for your HD turn signals located on corresponding sides of the handlebar. For right-turn on the right handlebar. For left-turn on the left handlebar. The reason I ask is that I've often questioned flicking a right-turn button or lever that's on the right handlebar while operating the throttle being more accustomed to the conventional placement. Also, how did you select which particular HD handlebar was more plug-n-play for the Valk's cable/wire lengths. Lastly....if you're still here....how did you get around the stock Valk 1-inch risers with the HD 1¼-inch handlebar. An obvious, thanks in advance.

RonW...yes, the turn signal buttons are on corresponding sides; left side for left turn, right side for right turn. Took a couple rides to get used to it again, and makes it easy to install a self canceling turn signal control such as the Penta Star XP sold by Signal Dynamics. That unit gives you run/brake/turn function, along with various times available for having the turns blinking. But, it can't be used with the OEM Honda single turn button. Having the turn button on the right with the throttle control has no effect on the rider, it's well within reach but you won't bump it accidentally. You will have to install the diode kit for turn signals from Kuryakyn. The OEM setup uses the same circuitry to make your indicator light flash, regardless of a left or right turn.  The kit is about $8 and isolates the bulb left from right. If you install LED turns as I did, you'll have to install the kit anyway. As for cable length, I have different risers and already had my cables lengthened. I sent them back to Barnett and had them change the top end of the cables to work in the HD controls...cost around $11 each plus s/h. When selecting the different handlebars, I went to Wild 1 and looked through their "blem" list and found a set of bars that are almost an exact copy of the Valk's. You just need to have the pullback, rise and width before you start looking. Since I had different risers, I wanted the replacement bars to be the same or close to what I had. That way nothing would need changing as far as cable and wiring length, and I would still have the comfort and handling I was used to. The Wild 1 p/n 538 sticks in my mind but won't swear to it, you just have to look and compare. I went with the 1.25" bars because I like the beefy look. Would have bought 1.5" if I could have found some I liked. All these bars, regardless of size, drop down to the 1" size at the clamp and at the control switch box locations so the oversize is not an issue. When installing the switches, I ran the wiring inside the bars to clean them up, only hydraulic lines and throttle cables are outside now.

There were 2-3 reasons I went with the HD controls as opposed to having the OEM units chromed. First, I like the looks, but it was mainly the cost. A quality chrome job on the OEM controls & master cylinders will run you roughly $250 and often more. And, you have to do all the work...removing all the switches & wiring, sightglass, etc.  And then put it all back together before you can ride again. Plus, if you ever need something replaced....good luck in finding it now, and it won't be chromed. The HD units came completely assembled, are readily available in chrome, and the entire set was much less expensive. My only major problem was matching the HD controls to the Honda wiring harness. That turned out to be rather easy, just take one circuit at a time.

Hope this helps.
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RonW
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Posts: 1867

Newport Beach


« Reply #7 on: February 26, 2011, 02:41:47 PM »

Thanks for the in-depth info.


There were 2-3 reasons I went with the HD controls as opposed to having the OEM units chromed. First, I like the looks, but it was mainly the cost. A quality chrome job on the OEM controls & master cylinders will run you roughly $250 and often more. And, you have to do all the work...removing all the switches & wiring, sightglass, etc.  And then put it all back together before you can ride again....The HD units came completely assembled, are readily available in chrome, and the entire set was much less expensive.


Myself, I went with chrome switch box HOUSING (left and right) for my Shadow 600 at $89.95 for the pair, http://www.mototourinc.com/mototourinc_files/valkyrie-switch-box-housing.htm. I haven't installed these on my Valk, although for some reason the same chrome housings for a Valk are $10 cheaper ($80.95), http://www.mototourinc.com/mototourinc_files/valkyrie-switch-box-housing.htm. These are not "covers" or polished aluminum. Below, some old pics I dug up from my photo files. Not the best resolution, but enough to show the mod. And, you do have to reuse the stock electricals from the OEM housing with these chrome housings. It's just another option not a recommendation.





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2000 Valkyrie Tourer
John Schmidt
Member
*****
Posts: 15225


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #8 on: February 26, 2011, 05:23:15 PM »

I had the chrome switch boxes on my Valk prior to the changeover. The reason I changed(another reason) was the switch box was chrome, the m/c reservoirs were still that dull finish. The HD units are two separate pieces...switch box and reservoir, but they interlock so become an integral unit. And....they're all chrome. In addition, I ordered the larger size piston for the clutch and I can tell a difference...especially in traffic where I'm on/off the clutch handle a lot. Plus, I only have to worry about one size of rebuild kit for the pistons now, and I carry a spare with me in an old pill bottle. I can replace it(haven't had to yet in five years) without removing it from the bike, just need a pair of needle nose to remove it once the handle is out of the way.
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RonW
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Posts: 1867

Newport Beach


« Reply #9 on: February 27, 2011, 04:40:19 AM »

I missed the part that you had chrome reservoirs too with the mod. Huge difference. And it's not that I haven't been searching around for stock chrome reservoirs without finding anything anywhere. Mental block, I guess.
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2000 Valkyrie Tourer
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